Ok Guys and Gals here are my plans for the little V6

Engine:
3.4L Block Bored .030 Over
P+P Heads with cam matching valve springs (Have)
P+P Intake
P+P Plenum
Forged Pushrods
Throttle Body
1.52 Magnum Roller Rockers (Have)
Cloyes Timing Chain
2030 CompuCam (Have)
Pacesetter Headers
Jet Underdrive Pulleys (Have)
Full Ignition (Wires, Plugs, Cap, Rotor, Coil, Module) (Have)
Magnaflow Cat (Have)
2.5 Inch Piping to FlowMaster 40 Series (Have)
N.O.S EFI Kit 100 Shot
Custom Made Prom

Drive Train:
Rebuild 700R4
Corvette Servo
Corvette Boost Valve
B&M Shift Kit (Have)
B&M Trans Cooler
Eaton Limited Slip
Aluminum Drive Shaft

Suspension:
Legwood LCA's
Subframe Connectors (Have)
Hotchiks Strut Tower Bar (Have)
Poly Urethane Bushings
IROC Sway Bars

Well that seems to be everything in my book as far as performance goes. What does the fellow V6 Community think?
I plan on eating me some mustang. Prediction on rear wheel horsepower and torque? 1/4 mile times?

 

I'd say low 15's N/A
High/mid 13's on the juice, if tuned correctly. Sounds like fun!

 

you said 2.5" exhaust...what part are you planning on having 2.5"?
if you rebuild the tranny anyways, i'd reccomend the transgo shift kit. i have the b&m and don't really like it that much. then again, that could just be my tranny.
FYI...i think you mean lakewood LCAs.

only running the 2030 cam, i'd have to guess about 140hp at the rear wheels and about 15.7. not trying to dissapoint you. the 3.4 is bigger than my motor but i am runnig much more cam, lots more compression, and am a little lighter than you would be with the SFCs and all. also, i see no mention of gears. if you want to run the 1/4 mile, your going to want atleast 3.42s...3.73s or so would do better for ya. if you can get 140 hp or more at the rear wheels, that's respectable...that's what you had at the crank when it was new, then loss through the drivetrain kills it. then, the NOS will help, A LOT!

 

I say just over 200 at the fly w/o the bottle.

 

I would guess about 200 at the flywheel too. And stay away from 3.73 gears if you're planning on rolling racing or full 1/4 mile runs. I've seen comparisons, the numerically lower gearing is actually better for our cars. I seen a guy go from 15.7 with 3.23 to 16.0 with 3.73...he lost 6 mph as well. 3.42 is an Ideal gear for these cars, if you have it, keep it. I would also consider more cam, but since you already have it..can't change it.

 

what are your plans for weight reduction??? Put that power tomore use. And lightweight driveshaft, smaller batery in rear.

 

Aluminum drums
lighter rims


I still never saw an answer if they made alumiunm from bumpers for camaros. I know they did on birds.

 

aluminum bumpers?

 

Dale meant UNDER/BEHIND BUMPER SUPPORT SYSTEM
HELL JUST REMOVE THE DAMN STUFF!
The nose stays on anyway.
ME
Why waste your money
Go get a BRAND NEW 3.4 from GM (about $2000)
Go get the tranny done but that'll cost ya like $1,000.
Spend the money now on the suspension stuff.
Pass on NOS due to cost ain't gonna get ya nowhere
UNTIL ya support the suspension system first.
Including changing gears.
You'll gain more from gear upgrade than sticking in the NOS & MAYBE harming all work done to engine/drivetrain.
After ya secured the drivetrain, then buy NOS & make your package faster.

Don't forget BRAKE UPGRADES.

I've already seen LAPD CRUSH/FLATTEN A CAMARO Z28 due to idiot got caught street racing. Cops took car & flattened it. Flattened it by steel plates from many feet above it dropped by crane.

Also saw two dead bodies cut outta a crushed Camaro & the driver lived (barely) to stand trial for manslaughter cause him & his buddies thought it would be cool to street race to the football game they were gonna play in that night.
I also pass by a tree knocked down from some stupid kids street racing. Saw the flowers/sign that said "RIP ANDY".
I believe the people in SoCal may know about these three instances. This is only within a 4-5 month period, recently.
Tree story happened within last week.

 

If not the 2030 cam what cam would you all reccomen I run? I found one by crane that has a duration of 216/228 at .050.

 

That sounds more like it

 

that one recommends higher compression though, that's not too easy to come by on these motors.

 

EAgle makes pistons that give like 10:1 compression. As for the nitrous thing, build first, nitrous last. And learn THOROUGHLY how it works, when to spray, how much to spray etc. Juicy juice has been one of my fav mods so far....mainly because you can pick on the faster cars

 

If you want to use nitrous remember one thing, for get any thing you hear form the ricers or on a movie.
Learn it from the muscel car guys.
Our board has an good nitrous forum, camaroz28.com has a real good nitrous board also.
That crane cam is the 2-272-H it is a good cam, I had one.
Race at the track, let the import guys make there bad rep worse.

 

How Much are those pistons and do you know the website? What part number is it. I ran across some money.

 

Me too. I finally fiound my block and crank and then some for cheap. This 3.4 actually only has 60K on it but I intend to tear it down and trick out the internals. Time has come to start collecting the rotation parts, and have the machine work done.

 

HOW I DREAM of having space in a garage because of space for storage on top of a garage!!!
GREAT SCORE Vsixtoy!

 

Thank you Karl- Not bad for $200, and I didn't even have to get greasy to get it- Found it from an old acquintance/team member in the GRA (Guldstand Racing Assoc). He's working part time Tech support for Doug out at Global West. Let me know if you or Jay need anything off this before I through some of this crap away (only things I don't want though )

I quickly sat some of the parts I have onto it for kicks. Wanted to see what it would kind of look like finished before I completely start tearing it apart.

 

Killer score Vsix!!!

Only thing I might remotely need is them coil packs, I belive they are same as the ones the GP takes.

 

awesome Dean! that looks good with all of your stuff on it.

 

Can any of you guys reccomend pistons, since the cam requires slightly higher compression.

 

I plan on having mine custom made (Ross- Local to me here in So.Calif))after I get a final measurement on the heads I have done. I will be using a 6" rod though and the and I am going to take the heads over to Roger Crawford of Heads-up Perf to see what he can do for me- otherwise, I'll just buy the already flow tested supersix heads with 1.8" intake valves. Even if I decide on the Supersix heads, I want Roger to weld the chambers for better quench then cc them for me so I can have the pistons made.

This will be in about 6 months though- I have some other car things to finish plus some major expenses coming up with the house and family

 

Will bigger pistons raise compression? If send it off for a rebuild can't i just tell the people rebuilding to put in bigger pistons?

 

Any time you bore or stroke or both a cylinder volume, It will result in raising the compression so the piston has to be relieved of material to keep it stock compression.

To give an example: there are over-the-counter 2.8 pistons sold for rebuilds that are .030" and .040" larger sizes than stock. If the stock 2.8 bore is 3.50 at 8.9:1 compression ratio (CR), the the .040" over pistons will be 3.54" bore but the piston height will be machined just slightly lower to maintain the 8.9:1 CR.

I don't know of any manufacturers that stock a 3.4 piston on the shelf, but I imagin someone has to becasue of the 4th gen 3.4 motors. Just something I have never checked for because I am going to about 10.3:1 with custom pistons. The stock bore on a 3.4 is 3.62" and I am intending on going to 3.66" with my block (3.5L, 209ci). The machinist will bore the block, and measure the deck height for me. with this info, the intended head gasket (thickness), crank stroke (3.31") and the head CC (stock iron RWD heads are 50cc, If I have mine welded for quench I'll be more like 35cc), You can then take this info to a piston manufacturer and have pistons custom made for the desired CR.

After you have the CR figured out on the final setup, you can then try and determine the cam profile based on the CR.

 

Also the Cam profile I am going with is .470"/.470"lift 218/218dur
and 110sep w/ 1.6 rockers. I should still be able to smog this car legally with that profile. If not, I will definately with changing the 1.6 rockers back down to 1.5 in case of problems, but I doubt that will be an issue.

 

i also wouldn't recommend going much over 10:1 compression because of cheap gas these days. you WILL have detonation if you try to run very much timing which is part of running a bigger cam, you have to run more timing. i have issues with detonation as it is. aviation fuel solves that problem but last time i bought some, about 2 months ago, it was over $3 a gallon. and, yes, i'm talking about always running 93 octane otherwise.

 

10.1 was what i planned if not lower.

 

you shouldn't have any problems then. something i've considered doing is putting low compression pistons back in my motor so that i can run boost....that would be fun with a bigger cam and all!

 

OF course, you COULD run FWD aluminum heads (+40% out of the box, from what I understand) with FWD Gen III pistons, and have a 9.6:1 aluminum headed motor

 

is there an intake that would fit without too many problems though?

 

I intend on using the thinnest head gasket I can get away with when I set the compression to 10.3:1. What you guys might not know or understand is that with the 6" rod angle, the piston slows down and stays at TDC longer that the 5.7" stock rod lenth does so that stabilises predetonation a bit more and allows the capability to run slightly high CR on the same octane. If it is still slightly too high, I will fit a thicker head gasket and slightly open the head cc back up also depending on any degree of severity. The cooling system I am currently working on also will allow this motor to run much cooler than stock and help eliminate any existing hotspots in the head cooilng ports. + the ceramicoated headers and other treated parts help reduce engine bay temps also on hotter low humidity days. This motor will stay at 172* always just like I have done with my work truck system.

 

that intake is sick. Where did you get it
did you build it?