ok, so saturday, I put new injectors in the camaro

15 lb. injectors, summitracing.com accel brand

stock for 2.8

Drove car around, and at first, idle was good and car didn't shake like it did before (previous injectors were in SAD shape)

so, I was driving around on sunday, and car got progressively worse throughout the day. it died twice in a parking lot and had NO power, and back fired.

during the 2 days, my SES light would come on at completly random times with the codes:
22, 33, 34, 44?
throttle positioning sensor, mass air flow sensor, MAF (again) and running rich code

I'd shut the car off, and the codes would go away.

ok, so anyways, later sunday, i was driving home, and the car died about a block away from home. i tried to start up....nothing...again....turns over, clu-chunck clu-chunck...dies...try again.....nothing....hold pedal in, HUGH back fire BOOM! soo, never got the car started. pushed it home, and there it sits. driving my mazda till i can get an idea of what's going on.

ANY SUGGESTIONS????? i'm TOTALLY lost, and i can't take it anywhere. Remember, throughout driving it on sunday, it'd backfire quite a bit (the little ones) and it sounded like a stroker almost....

 

What do your plugs look like??? I bet they are fouled. You just running a stock ign system?

 

not had a chance to take plugs out yet. it's raining, and i don't have garage space, so that slows things down.

stock ign? yeah... not done anything with that...

 

You would want to atleast get a performance coil and mount it in a better spot. stock location is a sauna.

 

where can I find one, and where can I put it??

 

msd or hypertech.

Most mount it up on the firewall lip. Hopefully ked85 will chime in and show a pic.

 

You can make a bracket to mount one anywhere you can find room; Home Depot sells steel in their hardware aisle. A 6 foot long piece of 1/8th inch thick, 3 inch wide steel is about $10.

You should clear the codes out, too, by pulling the negative cable off the battery for a minute or so. That way your "real" code will show up next time- I'd bet most (if not ALL) of those codes were old ones.

Also when's the last time you did a major tuneup? Along with Gumby's suggestion of checking the plugs, your wires, cap, rotor, timing, etc could also be worn out & out of spec.

 

last tune up was in june, changed EVERYTHING wires, rotor, cap, plugs (just changed plugs again last month) and all the other fun stuff.

The light comes on at random, and I shut the car off (mid-driving even sometimes) and when I start it back up, the light goes off, so it's weird.

About the coil: Place it anywhere under the hood? Or stay near the dist? or what? I'm pretty new at all this and I'm to the point of getting it running, and selling it, but I don't know. I've just had problem after problem with it. IT has a new clutch, though.

THanks, by the way, for all the help....

 

I got an accell coil. and I have a spare new stocker in the trunk.

Best to mount it in a place where it wont get as hot but not to far away. I moved mine as fas as the stock wiring let me. Right up on the cowl. But any place other then stock is better. its a fricking sauna in the stock location.

Just with that extra fuel you need good spark. a multy spark system would really help too. They fire each cyl twice per rev.

 

Am i the only one who sees a problem here? You replaced the injectors then the car died, and you getting suggestions for installing an msd box and a better coil for extra fuel. What extra fuel these are supposedly stock replacements according to the first post. Maybe inspect what you replaced first.

Investigate the tps and maf codes. Retrace your work. Maybe your dead injectors were masking another symptom, maybe your new injectors are defective.

tps maf running rich, these codes all go hand in hand and suggest looking elsewere besides a coil. I'd inspect the maf, try tapping it while the car is running and unplugging it and see what happens. The maf is vital, the car will run very badly or not at all with a defective one.

A maf code and rich code mean the maf is reporting huge air flow to the engine more than is actually happening. Its giving readings above what the ecm thinks is possible, as such the ecm sees massive air flow and dumps in massive fuel, giving your rich problem.

Check your tps with a volt meter, it should read a 0.5v ish and increase steadily to 4.5v as you open the throttle. If the tps is giving too high voltage readings it will think your flooring it and also dump in more fuel.

These codes almost always relate to the parts they describe. Every ignition problem ive ever had showed its self as a est fault accompanied with massive misses or no starts at all.

I just dealt with this on my dads mustang. It was acting as if it had a lean bog, an off idle stumble and occasionally died and was setting codes. We took it for a drive and diagnosed as a possible maf defect. We bought a code reader (paper clips dont work on stupid fords) and just as i suspected we got 2 maf codes and a lean code. Replaced the maf and it ran better than ever. Its a ford but the principles are the same.

Oh also, im with Tomp, clear the codes, pull the ecm fuse for 30 seconds and diagnose with any new codes. If your original coil is within spec (easy to check with a multimeter) you dont need a performance coil or spark box. There should be no "extra fuel" if the accel injectors are the same as stock. And if they're are not the same you need to edit the injector constant in the prom, it will only auto correct so much.

 

13lb is stock for 2.8,

 

Then why does he say 15 is stock in his first post? If thats the case refer to the last paragraph of my previous post. Dont think the ecm can auto correct enough. Larger injectors will make the ecms calculations with the maf and tps useless.

Adding an msd and hotter coil wont help. It doesnt work that way. If it was a carb and running rich you change jets, you dont install a new ignition. No jets here, get an eprom burner. Dont try to "hack" it either with fuel pressure or timing. Do it proper and let the ecm do its job.

 

13pph are stock. 15pph is slightly rich. I think your ignition system is weak. If you had gone to 17+ pph injectors, then I'd be saying to PM me, and I'd rescale your fuel tables in the PROM.

 

nsimmons, thanks for the advice! I still don't have an oppurunity to go check it out (the car's at my dad's house, and I see him every other week) so i'm still kind of stuck.

According to Accel and Summit Racing, 15lb/hr. are stock replacement injectors for chevy 2.8L MPFI fuel injection systems. It's of course not perfectly accounted for, as we see here, some are saying 13 are stock, others say 15, but i am going with accel on this one and assuming that they have this correct.

As for the MAF sensor, about 3 months ago, I was getting the MAF codes so I bought a sensor, found out later it was "remanufactured" and they never told me, so now i'm getting codes on the MAF again. I've been told remanufactured is just as good as new, but something's starting to change my mind.

I've done the tap-test on the sensor, and when I tapped it, my idol changed, and when I unplugged it, nothing happend, so what does that say?

As for the TPS code, when it came up, I shut the car off, and the code went away, and i didn't see it again, so maybe it was unplugged or something cause we were under the hood for a while and stuff.

Next time I get a chance, i'll go clear the comp like you guys suggested, start it up, and see what's going on.

As for the MAF sensor, if it's bad, I don't think I'll be getting my refund back on it, which means i'll be out $160: $80 for this one, and another $80 for another one. kind of sucks, but like I said, once it starts running, it's out of here.

THanks guys so much for the help! I'll try to keep you guys posted on what's going on.

 

accell is whats screwing you, hehehe I bet they just list 1 set and say they will work in all 60* engines. But I bet they picked the 15s for the 3.4 and said just list em all.

13s are stock for the 2.8, why most just find 14s from a mustang.

 

dont quote me, but i believe if the idle changes after tapping the maf then its has a problem, but search on maf and double check, i dotn remember.

Istill think thats the problem, if these injectors were really far off the car would have problems from minute one, not slowly after the course of 2 days.

 

not heard about the maf doing that, but the map will.

 

clear the codes by unhooking the battery
unplug the maf, it will run better with it unplugged from a bad maf.
run the car

i guarntee you its the maf.
this has happened to me twice. every time i go to the wreckers and grab mafs cheap and keep a few in the car. ac delco ones are almost 400$ canadian where i live.

 

At least you're getting codes. Chances are, it's an easy fix (maybe not cheap, but easy). Be lucky you have codes popping up to give you a place to start
Hey Doward, you burning for MAF systems yet? I could use a chip...

 

Sure am, and yes - tap on the MAF while idling - if the motor stumbles, bad MAF.

 

you guys are great! thanks for the help! I'll get on that as soon as I can, and get back to you guys. I was hoping that it wouldn't be the MAF cause I just replaced it, but coincidences happen.

Thanks again, guys!

 

Oh really.....hmmmm. So, if I can send you a data log of my car, you could optimize the curve and whatnot?

 

I hope nobody already mentioned this, but...

It doesn't exactly fit in line with your symptoms, but might wanna check the injectors for vacuum leaks. When you installed the new injectors, if they're not sealed tight in there, it will create a vacuum leak. Hit around the injectors with some TB cleaner and if the motor revs immediately, there ya go. Just...don't go hosing down their wiring harnesses and all too.