well.. i bought a 1986 Berlinetta camaro a couple months back, and well.. i just noticed little things here and there..

it did have the SES light on, code 34 which is the MAF sensor... now.. the car always kinda vibrated at idle, because the idle would get so low as the car tried to die.

I replaced the Thermomstat, Blower Motor, and Mass airflow sensor(this being the main problem i was worried about)

that fixed everything for awhile, it ran okay, started fine, idled fine..

well thats when the SES light started to come back up again with the SES light on, being code 34...

i went out and bought a new donut for the exhaust pipe, new sparkplugs, new wires,and new exhaust manifold gaskets. Still did nothing to help out, i was hoping it was my wires or bad plugs or something..

So last weekend i noticed the timing mark would bounce around like heck when checking for timing so i figured, its time for a new chain... during the weekend i replaced a timing chain, both gears(camshaft and crankshaft), a new coil, and new belts... the new belts help get rid of the squeeling that happened now and then but the car still just doesn't want to stay running.


Once i get it started and take off, its okay, it'll run with no problem, but if i let it sit for a couple hours it wont start, i have to start the car and rev it up and hold it soit wont die. In the morning leaving for school i have to do this, as also when i get outta school and head to work..

does anyone know what the problem could be or could give me some ideas on things i might need to check, or how about a part list which may help out..

thanks.

 

Clean out your IAC motor.

 

Also, search for any vacuum leaks, i used to vibrate real bad before i replaced my vacuum lines, and pluged up the vacuum leaks that i had, Now that i did, shes idleing like a champ and i have almost 0 vibration.

 

what is the IAC motor?

and thanks for the input, i'll make sure to check all my vacuum lines tonight...


could anything bad happen if i remove the catalytic converter off my v6, i wanna run straight pipes, would i have to do anything else? anything else needed to be removed with the catalytic converter?

 

First, there is also a relay for the MAF. It's located somewhere in the harness for the MAF (don't have a Camaro so I don't know exactly where it is, but on my car it's bolted to the passenger side of the radiator support, next to the evap canister.

Second, remove your ignition module and have it tested at AutoZone or somewhere that will test them. You MUST have the module tested cold. If the module fails the test, have them run it until the module is hot. My guess is that its like mine in that it don't work worth beans when cold and very well when hot, which is why I'm going to be getting a new AC/Delco one.

Also, what color were the old spark plugs when you removed them?

The IAC is that thing attached to the throttle body with a four-wire harness attached.

 

i am having a similar issue. my car starts fine, but the idle dips real low (but will not die) and i get a lot of vibration. vaccume lines were somthing i have wanted to do for a while anyway. i guess it is time.

 

Rebuild your distributor, do a search for my tech thread on that rebuild.
Follow the map as a GUIDE, DUE TO your vehicle year is different.
This smog map is for a 1985 F Body.
Your car will be slightly different.
5/16" & 1/4" windshield wiper hose does wonders on vacuum lines. Assemble broken lines using spit.
Be prepared for a new EGR valve, too.
BUT clean out the carbon first.
Typical problems.
Your car sounds like it'll be alright real soon. Save convertor for last. Bang on it. If it sounds rattly, it's due.
But then try to remove the muffler, first. That is where the broken up CC innards may be. Recently changed my muffler and there was the catalytic convertor, blocking the front of my to be discarded muffler!

 

what is the EGR valve, how much do they cost, and where are they located??
any pictures???
thanks..

would any iroc body parts fit on my berlinetta, like the ground effects, hood, and bumpers?

 

EGR is that UFO looking thing on passenger side exhaust manifold.

 

Before you replace anything big though, MAKE sure there are no vacume leaks! Check the Vacume hoses, and anything that holds a vacume. I can say this enough, For the longest while i had thought i had to rebuild my carb, but, i replaced all my vacume lines, and pluged up any vacume leak i could find, now the car is running great!

Im sure the hood would fit, the bumpers might, but since the Berlinetta model didnt come stock with Ground effects i dont think it would fit, I found a set of after market Ground effects (with a little help from a guy here on the forums) for the Berlinetta/Base model camaro for around $1000 which is the cheepest i have seen

 

hehe I never thought about describing it like that before!

 

Mine was throwing MAF codes too, I had a second MAF to test it with, still threw them, so wtf was the deal. I reset the ECU, stopped throwing the codes, I cleaned up the plugs and connections with some Electrical contact cleaner and as far as I know it isnt throwing th code anymore, I'll know when I go attempt to drive it home today

 

And I'll bet you now know what is the EGR under your hood, too!

 

yup yup! In fact I was just looking at it 10 minutes ago!

 

Yah ok I just tried to drive my pos home, still broken but it isnt throwing the MAF code anymore, so just try some cleaner first.

 

Your fee is to go to beach, look West while ya enjoy the sunset.
Thanks for my Maui moment.
Check all hoses & plastic lines over there.
Especially the underside.
And repair with 5/16" windshield wiper hose any plastic line cracks.
A good working EGR makes a decent running car.
Removes shakes and some minor hesitation issues.

 

my car did the same thing for a while, but mine would buck violently under slight acceleration. i finally fingered the problem out. mine was my tps. i replaced it for about 20$ and it runs great now. it is even faster than it was before. i replaced the EGR valve about a year ago and it was like 25$ from advance auto. should be around the same from the local auto zone or equivalent.

 

my car did the same thing for a while, but mine would buck violently under slight acceleration. i finally fingered the problem out. mine was my tps. i replaced it for about 20$ and it runs great now. it is even faster than it was before. i replaced the EGR valve about a year ago and it was like 25$ from advance auto. should be around the same from the local auto zone or equivalent.