Okay here it is:

I just replaced the fuel pump and filter due to the fact I thought my issue of car shutting down not getting enough fuel pressure. Now it runs a little better but after driving about an hour or it gets hot it will shut off and take 20 min or more before it can be restarted.

Could it be the injectors?

Is it Electrical or what? Someone Help! Please!!!!!!!!!

 

how "hot" does the engine get?

and it shuts off all by itself?

 

I take it that the car is running fine until it warms up and is under a load?

Gotta be the catalytic convertor pluging up the exhayust flow. They will plug up from engine oil over the years and will get cherry red when hot, swell and plug flow. Car will feel like it is falling on its face and even dies.

 

also check the icm.

 

That is correct; it is fine until warms up under a load

The catalytic converter is new replaced the whole exhaust system to include the CC back (Dyno Catback) in October.

UPDATE:

just got the car back from the shop after replacing the Fuel pump and filter. Feels a little better, gas flow is good ; I have not had a chance to run it hard on the Highway to see how she does, I will give her a run this weekend. I am going to change the starter solenoid and if that does not solve the issue I will check the ICM.

 

does it overheat while idling or just at highway speeds?

 

The car does not over heat

 

I'd say you are now due for a fresh rebuilt alternator.
Your ICM works or does not work.
OR good ol COIL!!!!!
Should still be in stock location?
Change it!
I seriously admire your bravery of driving your car in NYC.
I did that several times a while back in my 1966 Corvette.
Wave hi to Atlas & St. Patricks for me!
And eat pizza.
I did a quick relocation job of my coil. Back on firewall. Leaving the stock one in place, to save labor time.
You have electrical gremlins.

 

Alternator? maybe

Coil? Possible

I will test run it this evening.

That is my next project car a '70 series Corvette

 

Coil is an easy test swap clip snap set up.
Go for your normal test drive.
IF the car dies after that new coil temporarily placed inside the engine bay, ya need an alternator.
Make sure the alternator ya do buy is atleast equal to car neeeds.
These MPFI rides seem to love constant power supply.
An overheating poorly performing alternator can certainly cause car to die while driving.
I'm partial to 1970s Corvettes myself.
Here is my 1974.
Enjoy racing in Brooklyn!

 

I would check the resistance of your injectors if any of them go bad they can overheat the ecm and cause the car to shut down until it cools, this eventually will toast the ecm. My car had this same issue a year or so ago after about an hour or less of driving it would fall on its face and die, i had 3 bad injectors it ended up frying my ecm.

 

HERE IS THE UPDATE:

WIRING SEEMS TO BE THE ISSUE

Last Night; I took it for a test run while going to pick up a new ICM, well let me tell you it was not the ICM causing the shut down. It shut down again and I was stuck on the road until late

I was really ready to junk the car, but the body is great and when it does run it is a real Stallion on the road, so I am

I did notice the wiring for the coil was a little stripped. ( that could be the cause(don't think so yet).

Tonight I will go and get a battery with somewhere between 810 - 925 cold crancking amps.

This weekend I will install a new starter.

If that does not change this I will go back to the wiring connected to the coil next to the ICM.

 

I'm confused- did you ever pick up and install the new ignition module? If you still had the old ignition module in, that really sounds like the classic ignition module death (drives great cold, stalls when hot, won't start until cold again)

If the wiring for the coil is bad, that could definately cause a problem; but I doubt it would prevent you from starting the car immediately back up.

People say that a lot on this forum; I always wondered why.

 

As I said in other response.
New battery cables on clean surfaces.
Test swap in new coil & band-aid that one wire for the driving test.
Then decide if ya need go deeper.
Doubt it.

 

I haven't junked my car I love my baby, it is not her fault I let my son use it for 5 months and he did not take car of it. (never again).

I too think it is the coil and I am also going to check the Cat converter.

I have changed the ICM and put a new Battery (Champanion 925 amp) car runs better but is still shutting off when hot.

I was running it last night and it seems to be overheating, when I turn the AC on it brings the temperture down. So, my thought is something is not letting the air flow out.

 

when the car dies, does it crank at all?

 

Yes, it will start up once and ride a few blocks then a second time for a few more blocks then it won't start up again until about almost an hour later.

Since this incident I have installed a new fuel pump and filter, new battery, along with changing the Ignition Control Module.

On monday, I will have it tested maybe pick up coil? thermostat or bad Cat Converter.


BELOW IS NOT MY CAR, I JUST LOVE THIS PHOTO

 

im drunk


but i think pickup coil

 

when it shuts down, what is the temp reading???? putting the a/c on causes the fan to come on. maybe your fan temp switch isn't working.

I hate throwing stuff out to just have $$ spent on it nickel& dime like, but I hoppe you get your ride back up to 100%

 

When it gets to a little over 240 is when it won't come back on. I will be checking the thermostat along with a few other things on monday.

 

Recently upgraded my cooling system
New pump was a while back.
Recently added new 180* thermostat
Had to add cooling sensor switch to reactivate the new fan switch installed back in 2001.
IF car shuts down at 240* after driving for an hour,
you got couple things going real wrong.
Front under nose air damn installed?
How is quality of coolant?
Air dams behind the front bumper installed?
How is the fan & fan motor? Does it wobble ALOT? Or wobble slightly and is the fan motor shroud attached well?
How is the condition of your cars electrical system, including timing chain?
These things can contribute not only to engine power/economy, but to cooling, also.

 

Thanks I will into all that tomorrow

 

one or more of your injectors is shorting to ground when hot. 60 deg v6's are batch fired, so when one shorts out, all the juice goes to the path of least resistance and doesn't fire any of the other injectors. test this by ohming out the injectors, then when it dies, unplug the lowest resistance injector (really anything under about 12.6 ohms) and drive it home and change it. happens all the time.

 

like i said before check the resistance of your injectors, this sounds very similar to a problem i had. Sounds to me like your ignoring that possibility, if you keep trying to run it with a bad injector or two your going to fry your ecm as well.

 

Hey thanks for the info guys, I never knew that could happen. I thought if an injector shorted, it'd stay shorted all the time and not just when hot? Is that particular to brand of injector (Bosch/Multec) or all injectors?

 

When they go bad it is bad all the time, what will happen is the resistance will be too low so it will kick voltage back to the ecm and cause it to get hot once it gets too hot the car falls on its face and dies. It may start a couple times and run for a minute then die again. I had almost the exact same problem only i burnt the ecm so 3 new injectors and ecm then it was fine.


P.S the injectors are very easy to test do a search.

 

Will take care of that today


THIS IS NOT MY CAR I JUST LOVE THE PHOTO

 

I don't know if what I am gonna say can help you a little bit, but my friend had the same exactly problem in his van, the engine warms up, even more...it keeps running nicely until it shuts off, there was no way to turn it back on, we checked ignition coil...sparkplug wires, fuel pump, fuel filter....but...the distributor.....it seems to heat up and makes the car to shut off automatically. Obviously the ignition coil in his car was apart from the distributor.....Good luck!

 

they can do both, but even if they don't short completely when they're cold, they will show lower resistance than normal

 

UPDATE:

Well Guys, the Mechanic states that my Water Pump is shot.

I'm wondering if it was just the thermostat> Would I not have more of an issue with the car if the water pump was shot?

 

See my response, on your other topic, too.
All the things I mentionoed can't hurt replacing and given that you're in the high 90*s back east, now is the time!
I'd say be thankful you are not having the "mechanics" on the L.I.E. helping repair your car!
I hear they can still "repair cars" in under five minutes!

 

lol

I will replace most of everything else something new every other week

 

Well, at least you know more about your bird right now, I did not point out to the water pump since mines was destroyed and I was able even go to the mechanic's garage to change it the next day....

 

Crank position cencosr was my problem get hot car shuts down when cold starts with no problem drives fine till.hot again 90% this 8s the problem