V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

3.1 dies occasionaly

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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 09:53 AM
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3.1 dies occasionaly

I was driving 85 on the interstate with the 3.1 V6 and it just started cutting out on me. I pulled over and it died. Got it started again and i could only get it up to 3000RPM, drop it in first gear and get up to a top speed of 10MPH for 10 seconds before it would die again. I repeated this 3 times before i let it sit for 5 minutes. I started it and it drove fine. I had less than 1/2 tank of gas so i went and got some gas. Took the cap off and it hissed for a few seconds.

My engine was running hot - 220 degrees. I looked and i'm missing an air dam. It was about 100 degrees outside too at the time.

Anyone know what this problem could be? Fuel, air?
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 11:55 AM
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Replace your distributor module first...fast & cheap...
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 02:57 PM
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From: Enumclaw, WA USA
Car: '96 M3
Engine: 3.2L V-6
Transmission: 5-sp
Fuel injectors. Gauranteed. I had the same problem with my 3.1. Tried everything from alternator, cap & rotor, spark plugs, etc. Finally I spent the money to have a dealership check it out, and that was it. I spent $65 or so on a used set of injectors and it ran fine. I actually have a set of injectors from my 3.1 (swapped to 3.4) if you want them.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 05:54 PM
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FYI. I had the car die two summers ago, doing the same things.

Since then i've replaced the cap&rotor, twice. Replaced the spark plugs, twice. Replaced plug wires, fuel filter.

I'll look into injectors.

Last edited by Firebat; Aug 17, 2005 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 06:37 PM
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Don't discount the fuel pump.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 08:09 PM
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Car: 1985 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 LB8 HO
Transmission: 700R4 with OD
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 7.625 open-factory 3.42
Rebuild your distributor replacing your ignition module and pickup coil. Do a search on the board for the instructions. Best deal as far a payback in renewed power for the effort. Most of these drivability problems are ignition related. Remember these cars range in age from 13-23 years old, and the only ones that don't need a distributor rebuild are the ones that have already had one.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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Car: 89 Firebird, 92 RS
Engine: 2.8L MPFI, 355 TPI
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Axle/Gears: open 3.42, posi 3.42
definitly get that air dam back on either way though, they are vital in getting airflow through the radiator on bird's. and a radiator isnt much good if you dont have any air flowing over it!

probalby isnt causing your problem, but you will see power, fuel economy, and engine life decrease significantly without an air dam(if your car came with one, i think a few of the firebird nose cones might have been designed not to need them, but i know mine needs it.
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 12:46 PM
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yeah i'm looking for an air dam. didn't realize i didn't have one on the V6 until recently. And i've been daily driving it for 2 years.
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 11:23 AM
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FYI

Figured out the 220-225 degrees problem. On top of not having an air dam, the fan doesn't turn on anymore. I have a spare fan and an air dam on the way.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 04:50 AM
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Engine: 3.1 L
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I'll bet on the ECM prom

Horst
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 02:51 PM
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Originally posted by Horst
I'll bet on the ECM prom

Horst
for which problem? car shuting down, or fan not turning on?
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 07:01 PM
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IF you have working AC try it to activate the fan
IF no AC then you MUST burp your cooling system, cause it's very good chance you have an air bubble at fan sensor area and that's causing fan to not come on.
How you've gotten away with driving without the air dam is beyond me..
Shutting off while driving can be due to heated up engine.
Can also be ignition coil if original. AGED Overheated coils die easily & "live again" upon cooling....
Can also be fuel pump dying, soon....
Where do ya start?
Get air dam & try borrowing the fuel pressure gauge to eliminate the fuel pump question (it's 40-ish PSI when activated by ignition key).
Keep eye on temp guage while driving & cross fingers.
IF no fan on, then start there by burping cooling system
How?
Remove radiator cap & just turn on engine & let it heat up.
When the "stuff comes outta radiator", you've burped system.
Everytime car overheats, it'll tend to create an air bubble in cooling system and fan switch does not activate in "air", only when cooling system is full of water.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 07:18 PM
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thank goodness i'm going to home tomorrow. At least there i have a garage. Going to flush the radiator, take the air dam off of the project car then put it on the v6, figure out what the hell is wrong with the fan, put in a 180 thermostat.

When i drive it on the interstate it cools to normal temp as long as i don't have ac on, so i'm confident i'll make it back home. Its funny the hottest it gets is 220 around town and sometimes it cools down to 195. I've gotten by without an air dam for 2-3 years because i haven't driven it in the summer a lot and my fan has been working til now.

Thanks KED85, i wouldn't have thought of checking fuel pump pressure.

Last edited by Firebat; Aug 30, 2005 at 07:23 PM.
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