I tried to pull the engine codes from my ecu and when I jumper it the check engine light only flashes one time. What's up? You jumper the two end spots, all the way to the right top and bottom, correct? If so I did it right and couldn't get any flashes.

 

Sounds like ur just not making a good connection.. Are U just using a piece of wire.. or a paperclip.. best is a code reader.. and not use the SES light at all..

 

yeah just a paperclip, don't have a code reader. It's always worked before, with my other cars.

 

Well there a chance you push one of the terminal out the back of the OBD block..

 

well, I can still see the terminals. I didn't push that hard. I'll go to Autozone and pick up one of those metal code keys and see what happens.

 

No. Not top and bottom. You got an '88, some of the earlier cars it was top and bottom.
you need to use the last 2 end spots on the top. (The one on the right end and the one to the left of it both on the top row ) the radiator fan should run continuously while the key is on and the pins are jumped if you have it right.

 

that might explain things

 

did it, pulled the 12 code and nothing after that. I had it running last night and the ses light was on. I am trying to restab the dizzy, not sure If I am doing it right.

 

Nevermind, all ready posted

 

code 12 is just no disributor pulse you will always get that when the engine is off

 

I know, but what's wierd is that it didn't flash anymore codes.

 

Did you disconnect the battery at any point recently? If so, you cleared the codes and will have to drive the car until the light comes back on, then pull the code.

 

how many cycles did you watch. it will flash 12 12 12 then the next code and so on until it comes back to the first. just went through my car recently and mine read 12 12 12 23 23 23 42 42 42 then back through again

 

Well, I watched the cycle and no other codes were shown. I think I need to let it run a little longer and see what happens. If I can get it running agian

 

U know.. I had a similer problem at 1st.. I couldnt get codes by the SES light.. But I went out and bought a Xray 6000 Code reader/programmer and it was abe to read all the codes on the ECM.. I think if there to many codes the ECM just cant handle them and locks up.. I ended up needing just about all my sensor replace.. Temp, MAF, O2, Trigger, so on so forth..

 

i just went through something like that except after 4oo bucks i found out to have a bad ecu i changed a lot of junk and was fed up and for ha ha changed the ecu and it ran

 

I didnt need a ECM.. It was just to full of codes.. But once I got all the code and replace it all.. The car did pass Ca Smog.. so I was much relieved on that part..

 

I wonder if I hurt the ECU when I jumped it wrong? Now all I get is backfire when I try to start it.

 

Thats a good way to fry it...

 

I don't believe there is any voltage on the bottom right connector. Let me find my pinout.
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http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/ Says that the bottom right connector is serial data. All you would have done by connecting the rightmost top and bottom pins is to connect the serial data line to ground.

If GM engineered the ECU correctly then its optically isolated, and no harm done. If not than at worst you destroyed the serial controller. The whole computer is not broken. Rest assured.

Sort of like if you took your printer cable apart and shorted everything together. You might get a tiny spark, and maybe that port won't work anymore, whole computer shouldn't be affected.

 

when my ecu went bad the car would start and stall right away, or start and run smooth till you touched the throttle or start idle and run smooth for a min and then idle reallt rough