Okay got the car a couple of weeks ago. Been nothing but problems. Getting in to running shape.

Sorry this is so long


Okay
Replaced
Wires
cap
rotor
ignition module.
Used distrubutor
Car ran good.
fuel filter
Check fuel pressure
Oil
Trans fluid
Rear end fluid

From my wrecked v6 1989 2.8 MAF. USed Parts America to be sure stuff was compatable.
Installed collant temp sensor from my v6
ANd new thermostate.
Car warmed up. Did not seem to before. All these were good from my 1989 engine ran like a champ.

After doing this got a code 13 for o2 Sensor. Went to the store and got a new O2 code still was there. So check the wire. It was cut

So reattached the wire found the other end coming from the computer. It was by the blower. So reattached it.

Got code 45.

Then car started running like crud. Will idle but when you give it gas it will cut out and almost die.

I even unhooked the O2 sensor. Reset the ECM and car still runs like crud.

I checked the TPS voltage and it gets 5 volts. Seems high but no way to adjust.

This car has been obvously had some shade tree mechanic done to it.

No code right now. But can even get it to run above idle

surges all over the place

 

I'm wondering if you didnt attach the 02 wire, to the EST wire. Because the o2 wire goes down thru the harness that runs across the back of the motor and down to the starter.

What color is the wire you hooked it up to?

When you installed that used dizzy, how and what did you set timing too?

 

Wire was purple that I hook up to the o2 sensor. After hooking it up ran the car for a while got a code 45

Distributor. After replacement everything ran fine. I timed it witha timing light. Adjusted and hooked up everything.

This just started happening after I hooked up the O2 sensor. I disconnected it and cleared ECM still runs like crud.

I will idle but when you want to give it gas it wants to cut out. Sometimes it will almost run normal. Idle will speed up run better etc. Just to quit.

Iam beginning to wonder if the ECM is not shot. Along with what ever was done to the wiring.

I am also thinking about getting a new ECM and wiring and start from scratch.

Is there a way to by pass the ECm to get the car to run ????

 

code 45. w/o looking up, that means rich right?

Vac test?
Coil/spark test?
when was last tune up (hows plugs look? all the same?).
Fuel pressure?


I have heard VERY few times of an ecm going bad, more then likely something is wrong with the engine.

 

Just did a tune up a few days ago. Everything ran fine until I

1 Put in a new thermostate
2. Put in Collant temp sensor
3. Hooked up o2 sensor

So I dont think its the engine.

It idles just runs like crap. You can smell the fuel. Seems like the engine is not controlling the fuel etc.

 

If you have an extra ecm, or can get a cheap one. Swap it. But I think its your engine.

Do a fuel pressure and leak down test on the injectors.

Also, while hooking up the o2, you could have knocked a wire loose no something else.

Make sure the connection you made is not grounding/touching anything else.

 

Yeah Dale that's what I was thinking... I'm a little rusty lately, but I coulda sworn that 45 can be thrown if the oxy sensor wire "melts" on the exhaust and shorts to ground. So in this case maybe it didn't melt but it's grounding somewhere else.

I can't believe the previous guy cut the oxy sensor wire! Yikes.

What's weird is that even after you unhooked the oxy sensor again, the car's still running badly...

If you've still got your 89 (you're using it for parts?) then try putting the '89's ignition coil on your '92. You don't need to unbolt your '92's coil, just plug in both connectors and hook up the coil wire.

Something else to try... if you can get the engine to idle, try shaking the big wiring harness at the firewall- maybe there was a bad connection that got disturbed when you fixed the oxy sensor wire? So if you shake the harness while the engine's idling, if it dies (or runs great) you know you've got a bad wire in there...

 

Okay

The o2 wire is not touching. I also found two other wires that were taped to the wire bundle. Blue in color looked like factory ground wire conectors. Conected then up to a ground

Still wont run

Swaped the coil igniton module cap rotor and wires. Ran good after this. Before this came up.

Tried a used ECM still runs like craaaerp

Wiggled the wires and all over the place. Still no go

Checked fuel pressure with my trester holds between 40-42 PSI

 

I always forget. Thanks for the help. Still does not run. But your taking your time to help and I appricate it.

 

Is that 40-42 running at idle, or no-run with key on.
Did you leave it on after turnning car off and see if it bled down?

Um, I'm at home now so I got the book infront of me giving me ideas.
Fuel filter
plugged cat
cylinder dead/uneven/valve stuck open/closed
timing wrong (possibly balancer has spun and mark is not in right spot), or put the dizzy in wrong.

Can you get pic of these 2 wires and I will try to find them in my harness.

 

No run with key on.

Fuel filter was replaced last week. Like toms tune up thing. Cat was goodd on my other car. had to swap it on the new one. Look the same.
After swap ran like a champ. Check PArts America said they were compatable.


I tried to time it today. Advanced it alot. But still did not run good.

Wires give me your email and I will send you some pics.

I am taking it to my buddy shop today. He runs a auto electric place. He is going to help me out.

 

Ran car up got 40-42 psi. Shut it down seems to hold pressure.

After replacing Distributor time accooring to manual and car ran great.

I was thinking that the Car was ready to go on the road. I guess that was a BAD thought LOL.

I am not sure about the balancer. I guess that one of the things that we will look at.

 

you said you replaced the coolant temp sensor... just a thought, but what if the coolant sensor was waaay off, making the engine think it was extremely cold out and dumping in more fuel.... You should probably check to see if the car is even entering closed loop. To do this, start the car, then cross the diagnostic terminals on the ALDL port. Do not start the car with the wire already in, as this can fry an ecm every onec and a while. The ses light should begin rythmically flashing. if the light flashes more then twice a second, you are in open loop. The flash will slow to about a flash a second upon entering closed loop.

 

It is in Open loop. Try to run it and it never makes it to closed loop. That was the orginal problem.

That why I replaced colant temp sensor and I thermostate. iT would try and go into closed loop and fault for O2 sensor and rich condition.

 

Worked on it a couple of nights. Since figured out the timing chain was loose as H*ll. After it is replaced will check and see how it runs. But everything else checked out okay