Great job on the sticky about the turbo Dave. I learned alot from it. My question is how much horsepower would be gained by the turbo? Alos how much would all the piping cost and a new turbo its self? Could someone use plastic piping for these 90* bends?

 

depend son what turbo and were u get it,but u can expect to pay between 250-700 for a turbo.100 hp on an intercooled setup is typical (7psi) on stock engine.piping depend son what u use (mandrel bends or not) best bet is mandrel bends from summit. and i would not use plastic piping

 

Turbos themselves can be quite expensive depending on what you run... For the size required for these motors I would guess somewhere between 500-900 for a used one and 1200+ for a new one.

Piping usually isn't too expensive. Just depends where you get it from. I wouldn't use any plastic piping though just because it absorbs heat from everything and you really need to be keeping the charge air as cool as possible. If you were to run plastic pipes on the setup you would pretty much defeat the purpose of the intercooler. Aluminum piping is so much easier to work with anyways and it'll deflect most of the heat generated by the turbo and motor.

 

What size of turbos would be best for stock motors? Built motors?

 

the t04e i am running is good for a stock engine or a mild built engine,but for something more serious i deff recomend a t61 turbo

 

How long would it take to install the turbo?

 

Depends on if you have everything you need to do it at once and how much experience you have... I bet it could be done in a weekend project if you had everything you needed already purchased and awaiting installation.

 

beleive it or not the hardest thing is welding in the fitting for the oil return from the turbo,if the oil pan is on the engine in the car.if the pan is off the engine its easy.but if its in the car u have to be very careful not to set the oil on fire,and there uis a huge risk of explosion,since some of the gas gets down into the oil,the worst thing u could do is drian the pan before u weld on it.highly not recomended to be done by a novice welder,or if the engine has run within the last few hours

 

To4e turbos regularly sell on ebay for around $200. But hey, Dave has a turbo kit available, check it out!

 

I got a question about the how to sticky...What did you do with the "orb of power"? You never mentioned it in the how to, so I was just wondering what you did.

 

Could you just run the return line through the oil fill cap in the valve covers? Some reason I thought I've seen that done before

 

u could if the turbo was mounted above the valve cover.since its mounted lower u would need an elec pump to pump the oil upto the valve cover


grim i threw it out lol,

 

You definitely do not want to restrict the oil return from the turbo. Dave is right, you would have to mount the turbo above valve cover level to get good drainage. The remote, rear mount setups marketed for late model trucks and fourth gen F bodies use a pump to return the oil.

 

ok, but something I haven't been able to figure out is where you are getting the oil feed to the turbo from?

 

t-off from the oil presure sender

 

ah, that makes sense. here is another random question, does a turbo need to be mounted in a certain direction or can it be on is side or other random directions?

 

the cold side and hot sides of the turbo can be rotated to any position u want.the centersection/bearing housing must have the oil feed ontop,and the drian on the bottom.,though u dont want the feed inlet at the 12 oclock postion and the drain at 6.the best results are to mount it so the feed and drian are around 15* off those positions

 

Very good points Dave, I mentioned the oil drian to him, but assumed he knew the rest of it.

 

ok, so mounting the turbo with like the cold side on top and the hot side down, with the oil feed/return horizontal would hurt it? Im just asking out of the sake of curiousity, so thanks

 

can two t04e turbos be intstalled making it a Twin Turbo?

 

Actually yes- the oil feed and return have to be close to vertical as possible, even though technically the oil supplied is at engine pressure.

Say you do a rapid decelleration- the turbo shaft is still spinning at high RPM, but the oil volume and pressure have dropped considerably. The oil serves to lubricate the shaft and cool it. So if you mounted your turbo so the oil supply and drain are horizontal.....the "top" bearing gets starved- keep in mind the bearings are more like plain bushings- and I have seen many shafts galled and blued, and some broken in turbos. Loose lube at 20,000 RPM and it gets ugly.

 

they could be,but u would need one hell of a modified motor,not to mention a really high stall converter,if the car is an automatic.or u would have some massive lag.and u would have to run very high boost levels to stay away from compressor surge.twin t3's would work much better.prolly around something like .42/.50's

 

Actually, just the opposite… aluminum will absorb and shed heat to air MUCH faster then plastic, plastic is almost an insulator where aluminum conducts, radiates… quite well… there is a reason why they make heat sinks and radiators out of aluminum and not plastic.

The problem with plastic is that under decent boost you might end up with 2-300* air going through it and most plastics aren’t strong enough at those temps, that being said, it has been done semi successfully, it’s just sort of a borderline situation there that I wouldn’t want to deal with long term.

Make sure that the shaft stays close to perpendicular to the ground also. Most turbo manufacturers allow the shaft to be up to about 15* off and the outlets as much as 20 or 25* off.

 

Yeah Nevermind I only have a 3.1 so twins would not be a good idea so I'll stick to one, just wait till I get enough money and for sure you'll have a customer here. So are you saying that twin turbos would be ok for just say a 350/350hp engine?

 

no twins would be ok on the 3.1.but the twin t04e's would be to large.they would work,just not be optimal.twin t3's would work out alot better

 

Ahh, thanks for the correction there. I was under the assumption that it actually deflected it with the piping, but I guess that does make more sense when you consider heat sinks, radiators, intercoolers, etc...

 

not to hijack the thread, but I have a question for Dave or anyone else who ran their exhaust piping under the frost suspension. Do you have any clearance issues in day to day driving? I'm afraid that if I do my exhaust the same way you show in the wright up I'll scrape every time I go over a speed bump.

 

Small twins on a v6 would really be trick… you should get faster/more aggressive spooling then you would with a comparably sized single, and with the small size and the narrow V6 solve the problems that I have with running twins on a V8 powered f-body (more room for down pipes on both sides and you don’t need as big a down pipe for the smaller turbo). In the end you won’t get the big power numbers like you would get with some of the hairier V8 turbo setups, but it should still be able to make quite respectable numbers and be a very efficient combination. It would be very interesting to see how much lighter you could make the 60* V6 turbo setup (as compared to the relatively heavy 3.8 turbo setup like in the TTA) then a V8 also…

Doing some quick, back of the napkin type calculations, a built up/optimized 3.1 making peak power in the mid/high 6xxxRPM range should be making 500hp at 15psi boost, a 3.4 bottom end under the same conditions should be capable of somewhere around 560… and the 60* V6’s, fully dressed, usually weigh roughly ½ what an SBC weighs and obviously sits further back resulting in significantly better weight distribution…. Huh, I wonder what a TKO600 would weigh (which should pretty much live forever behind something like that), and even a built up/optimized stock rear should last pretty long (and be much lighter then something like the braced moser that I’ve got in my formula).

Huh… wheels turning…

 

i dont have anyproblems with speed bumps and such,though if u drive liek an aninimal and not a human,u will scrape the pipes.every now and then when pulling into a steep driveway i would just touch the pipes on the ground if i went to fast,but now that im used to the turbo setup,i havent bottomed anywere in a long time.this is also the reason that oon the kits i sell i switched from round to oval ex tubing were it runs under the kmember.now i can fit larger pipes that take up less gorund clearance.a 2.5 inch round pipe takes up 2.5 of space.wereas a 2.5 inch oval tube only takes up 1.75 if i remeber right
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ur calculations are pretty close, on my 3.1 i was just over 400 hp @ 16-18 psi ,on a mild built engine,so those numbers would be very atainable on a well built 60* motor.and prolly 50-75 hp more on an aluminum headed engine

 

Where do you get the oval pipe?