project89

iTrader: (1)

#1 turbo charger - which one?
well this depends on ur total goals for ur engine.But i recommend a to4e stage 3 57 trim.its large enough for high boost.but isnt an all out race turbo.ive experanced 6psi by 2,400 rpms with this turbo and full boost 14psi by 3,100 rpms.these turbos can be bought on ebay for around 150$'s i went with a .63 ar on the hot side,and a .50 ar on the cold side.
ull also need a set of flanges inlet/outlet. u can make ur own or buy them pretty cheap

the t3/t4 57 trim is actualy a 46 or 50 trim depending on which person u buy from.either will work the .63 hotside is awesome for street/strip

for those wanting a lil more upper rpm power the t70 hybrid on ebay is actually a t61/with a t3 hotside .84 this will make more power but be a tad bit laggier and more suited to upper rpm power


#2 waste gate/boost controller
u have 2 options internal or external.i cant help u with an internal waste gate,cause i didn't use one.nut i went with an 36mm external gate also off ebay.i recommend getting one with a 3.63 psi spring,so u can use a boost controller to control ur boost,the low psi spring alows u to turn ur boost way down to compensate for bad gas/improper tunning. can be had on ebay for around 80$'s for the waste gate,and around 5-20#'s for the boost controller

nothing changes here except from experiance if u run the psi spring and want to go above 7 psi ull want to buy a higer psi spring,u do not want to go more then slightly dbl the rated spring with the boost controler


#3 silicone connectors
u will need various connectors but the sizes will depend on things like ur intercooler inlet and outlet sizes,and the turbo in/out sizes.But for intent and purposes i will assume u go with all the same things i did.
i ended up buying 3 of 2.5 inch couplers 3 3inch couplers, 1 3inch to 2.5 reducer,and 1 2inch to 2.5 inch reducer

invest in some t bolt clamps the supplied hose clamps will not hold and break fairly easy


#4 intercoolers
what u can use for birds/camaros will vary
i went with an volvo 740 intercooler which can be had on ebay for about 40$'s.they fit nice behind the grill in the camaro,and the way the inlet and outlets are are perfect. this intercooler is good to about 325 hp it will make more but becomes a flow restriction.

the large ebay inter coolers are fine i know ppl using them with no issues, u want something with around a 24x12x3or4 core size, t04e ppl should get 2.5 inch in and outs, a larger turbo user should go with 3 inch in and outs


#5 BOV
u have 2 styles to chose from to atmosphere and recirculating
recirculating is recomended for maf equiped cars.with that said im running a to atmposphere bov on a maf car and have not had a problem.
but the choice is up to u.either will work.and is highly recomended on any car that will see around 7+psi.if u want the distinctive bov sound go with an to atmosphere valve,if u want to keep things nice and quiet go with a recirculating.
these can be had on ebay very cheap i paid around 35$'s for mine

the ebay greddy styles leak, stick with the ssqv,tial, or blitz style.


#6 tubing
u will need around 8 2.5 inch bends(have to dbl check) 6 being 90* and 2 being 45* plain and simple get an ebay plumbing kit for the intercooler,much better then using crush bent ex tubing

u need about the same in 2.25 inch tubbing to complet the hot side plumbing this u have to use real ex tubing,they do sell stainless plumbing kits on ebay in this size but the tubing is to thin to be used for the hotside of the turbo setup.


#7 injectors - fmu- tunning
for maf cars staying around 7 psi u will need 19# injectors nothing more

the injectors are stock on 305 tpi motors i believe the 350 are 21# but i can be wrong.these can be had off ebay or the boards here pretty cheap

more then 7psi u will need an fmu 6-1 or 8-1 ratio would be best,after 300 hp expect to replace the stock fp with a new unit


#8 misc peices
these would include gaskets/oil return/feed lines
feed line is recommended to be 3-4an line but no larger
oil return line is recommended to be 10-an or larger

beware ebay feed and drain lines they are low quality and do break

the length of the lines will be determines on turbo placement/and were u can fitt he oil return fitting in the side of the oil pan.I recommend right below the oil filter on the drivers side,as this has the most room to weld the fitting onto the pan

lines/fittings can be purchased from a local speed shop

pretty much for the oil feed u will need
1 1/8th pipe nipple
1 1/8 inch pipe tee
2 1/8 inch pipe to 3 or 4 an fittings ( one into the tee one screws into the oil inlet in the turbo
2 90* 3 or 4 an fittings
1 piece of 3 or 4 an line approx 2.5 ft long

oil drain
1 drain adapter with 1/2 pipe threads
1 1/2 pipe bung
2 1/2 pipe to 10 an adapters
1 45* swivel 10 an hose end
1 90 union
1 90* 10 an hose end
2 10 an straight hose ends
and approx 4 ft of 10 an line

an lines are just exspensive look to have about 50-150+ in just lines



also i recomend getting a 3wire o2 sensor as i had some problems with the stock single wire
i used a walker 3 wire o2 and havent had any problems since PART NUMBER 250-23003 cost was about 55$'s from local parts store + 5$'s for the weld in bung
HIGHLY RECOMMEND AN WIDEBAND O2
PLX MAKES A FULL SETUP FOR 260$'S
CONTROLLER HARNESS GAUGE AND SENSOR

and of course a boost gauge
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Alright so now u have all of the necasary parts so whats next?
well if ur gonna do the same setup i used the first things would be to get rid of some of the things that end up in the way

#1 windshield washer fluid resivor

#2 cruise control

#3 charcol can - when u remove this be sure to plug the line that runs back to the fuel tank for now

#4 ac lines - this is not necasary but makes the install go alot easier,- these can be removed carfully and reinstalled after the turbo has been put in.But will require u to get the ac system recharged

#5 stock air box

#6 lower air dam - this gets put back on the car at the end -though it has to be modified

#7 remove the maf and rubber hose going to the tb

Now that all the extra stuff has been removed from the car there is one last thing to do
a hole needs to be cut under were the charcol can and cruise control was.See picture below


ppl using 2.5 inch pipe can cut a 3 inch hole if ur going with 3 inch pipe cut a 4 inch hole

project89

iTrader: (1)

ok so now what to do ?
well the first thing is to install ur new injectors and afpr

step #1 unhook car battery

#2 remove throttle linkage and tv cable

#3 unhook all vacum lines on the tb and rear of the manifold

#4 remove bolts holding tb to manifold

#5 unbolt bracket from ac compressor to manifold - then remove reamining upper manifold bolts.Once th ebolts are out u can pick up the manifold on the driver side and move it out of the way with the egr tub still attached

#6 cover up intake runners with a rag to prevent anything from being droped into the engine

#7 disconect the fuel lines on the drivers side of the car were the rubber lines meet the lines going to the fuel rail.then disconect the lines from the rail itself and remove

#8 unbolt the bracket holding the throttle/tv cable.then carfully unplug the coolant temp sensor and the fuel injectors( u push in on the meatl wire clips to release.if u try prying them out u will more then likely lose the clips,and or break the connectors

#9 remove the final 2 bolts holding the fuel rail down.then pul up on the rail while wiggling it back and forth

#10 remove injectors from rail,install afpr according to ur specific manufaxctures directions,then reinstall new injectors into rail and reverse procces to put it back on


first thing to install is gonna be the intercooler.now if u got the same one i got u will have to bend up some aluminum channel and have it welded on the top and bottom of the intercooler.

now u have to cut out the brace that runs from the bottom of the bumper to the bottom of the hood latch

once that is done u can attach the intercooler behing the gril with steel straps and bolts/sheetmetal screws on the tops and bottom of the ic



now i made a big mistake when i put mine in. i set mine right under the hood latch.so when i tried to close the hood the saftey latch hit it and the hood wouldnt close.but it wasnt a big deal since i had a fiberglass bolt on hood.i just removed the saftey latch and got a set of aluminum hood pins.now if u have a stock hood ull want to make sure were ever u place the ic that it dosent interfer with the hoodlatch


the first pipe to build is gonna be the oulet of the intercooler to the throttle boddie.as u can see here i came out of the ic and make a right bend so the pipe ends up under the hole i cut earlier.


once u get the pipe to look like the above picture u place an coupler onto the pipe below the hole.Cause if u make this pipe in one piece u wont be able to get it in or out of the car.



in that pic u can see how i ran the pipe from the tb twards the pipe comming threw the hole.




this is also the pipe u want to mount ur bov or recircualtin bov into.

project89

iTrader: (1)

ok next up to do is the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler.doing it this way also helps to locate the turbo in the car.
in the pic below u can see how the pipe comes from the intercooler and makes a right bend

and in this pic it makes a 90* bend upwards

now what u need to do is trim the pipe to the right hieght so when u put the turbo on the end it dosent interfer with the fan or the belt/pulleys on the engine
heres 2 more showing the turbo placement
once u get it in place u want to bolt the inlet flange into the turbo


once the turbo is were u want it then comes doing ex inlet pipe
the easiest way to do this is to run a ppe up from the stock y pipe
on the drivers side with a 2.25 hole saw u cut a hole into the y pipe.
ps dont mind the oil all over the pipes i had removed the oil filter and oil filter adapter housing to weld in my oil return fitting into the pan and oil got all over the pipes

u can see the location of were the pipe/hole goes in the pic above/ill have to get better pics
now the pipe u weld onto that should be notched in a tubing nother so u get a good fit
as u can see here the pipe runs foward under the front crossmeber at the sides.pretty much inbetween the cm/and the lower control arm



this pipe runs all the way upto the inlet on the turbo and gets welded to the flange that u bolted to the turbo
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now before u weld the pipe to the y piep and its in the car permantly u need to bolt it back to the turbo so u can figure out were to weld the flange for ur wastegate on.
if ur using an internal wastegate u can skip this step
mine fit perfectly right bleow the inlet flange and faces the crank pully


once u get that finished u can go ahead and bolt the pipe back to the turbo,and weld the other end onto the y pipe
ok now u have the inlet pipe done.now u have to cut the ypipe from were the rest of the ex system meets it and cap it.so all the ex gasses goto the turbo. in the picture below u can see were i cut mine and caped it.now this isnt optimal but it does work.a better way to do it would be to cut the pipe comming from the manifold short and weld a new bend in its place so when it comes down to the y pipe it makes a nice bend into it instead fo just liek dead ending into it.i would have done this myself but i was running out of tubing.and it was late sunday night so i couldnt even go get more.though i will be making a new pipe soon.when that is on the car i will edit this and post the pics.

well now u have the inlet pipe completely finished

project89

iTrader: (1)

now its time to start the downpipe.( the piep that goes back to the cat/muffler)
here u can see the flange that goes onto the turbo this is a block off flange to block off the hole for the internal wastegate.the pipe comes striaght out of the flange about 3 inches then makes a 90* turn downward

and here it is bolted to the turbo


it drops down and makes another 90* bend under the crossmember on the passengers side


here are a few pics of it running back to the rest of the ex system.keep in mind i threw out my stock cat.if u keep urs it will look slightly diff.rout the pipe under the cm and out twards the stock ex location

and here it is gpoing out to the stock intermediate pipe.(ran out of tubing at this point so u can see were i had to weld in bits of the old stock pipe)


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a much better way to do this would be to come out of the turbo across the face of the altanator and make a 90 turn twards the firewall then go and out nexto the starter and out to the stock ex location, this will flow better then going under the k member and free up some ground clearance.why i didnt think of this when i originally build this setup ill never know, but there is deff room for a 2.5 or 3 inch downpipe doing it this way

project89

iTrader: (1)

oil feed setup

here is how i got the oil for the turbo

unscrew the oil ps unit and install 1/8th inch pipe niple screw a tee onto the nipple.then screw in a 1/8th pipe to 3 an fitting.this is were u hook the an line to.on the last port u screw the oil ps sender into

the line then runs up over the driver side valve cover along the manifold and out under the serp belt to the turbo.u will need to screw an 1/8th inch pipe to -3 an line adapter into the turbo to hook up the line
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and the oil return
basically comes out the turbo on a 45* angle twards the ds of the oil pan,then makes a 90 turn twards the firewall and then a 90* turn into the side of the pan, i will have to dig threw all of my old pics and dig up the corect pics for u guys




heres some pics of the oil return line. i used -10 an line it comes down about 4 inches and makes a 90* bend twards the engine on the drivers side.it ends up under the oilfilter,were u need to weld in a fitting into the oil pan.
this line needs to be on a downward angle since the oil drain uses gravity.but with that said u want the fitting in the oil pan as high as possible in the pan so when the crank is spinning at high rpms it dosent blow oil back up the return line.ill get some better pics of the whole oil feed/return setup tommorow
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o2 sesor should be atleast 12 inches away from the turbo turbine outlet and before the first major bend \, heated o2 sensor is highly recomended

project89

iTrader: (1)

now for some known issues that need ot be adreesed using this style setup

#1 spark plugs
drop atleast 1 heat range 2 if possible
#2 sparkplug gap should be closed up to about .028 with stock ignition systems, coil and wires do not count as aftermarket ign systems
if u have an msd box or the sort .035 gap will work

cooling system
#1 160 tstat is a must
#2 wiring the cooling fan to be on at all times is a very wise idea ( i will edit this post later with pictures instruction on just how to do this)


vacuum lines

the rubber plug on the back of the tb
this piece will not stay in under boost simple fix = zip ties yes thats right put a zip tie around the tb neck and rubber plug and pull it tight, this stops from blowing the plug out the back of the tb
i have personally lost 3 of these plugs, its not fun when ur 40 miles from home and u lose that plug cause now u have a 3/8's or so hole in the intake which is a huge vacuum leak,think of how ur car runs if u pull the brake booster hose off

#2 heater control valve line, get urself a one way check valve to install into this line or u will find ur heater vents changing when u got into boost,dosent hurt anything but step on the throttle when u got the defroster on and ur defroster vents close and it changes to floor or front vents lol


add more as i think of it

HOW TO GET MORE OUT OF UR SETUP

many many ways to do this but ill start with the basics

use header wrap on the turbo hot pipes i.e manifold to turbo
keeping the heat in helps spool the turbo faster soon ur spool the more power ur making under the curve

same goes for the cold side pipes

insulate them form radiant heat/hot air in the engine bay cooler air is more dense
add a small electric fan to the front of the inter cooler,the better ur inter cooler works the more boost u can run,and the more timing u can run before detonation

boost controller
turningup the boost is a good way to get more power but keep it sane
i.e ur running a stock motor for the love of god dont run more then 12 psi on a factory tune with an fmu its seriously asking for problems lol

unless u have the means to measure afr and knock then have at it

12 psi is were u will start to run into issues on a stock motor from this point on u will need 24# injectors or bigger and afpr fuel pump etc
from this point i highly recommend going mega squirt either in piggy back or full standalone, or even burning ships for the stock ecm,though if u know what ur doing continued use of the fmu past 12 psi is ok,just not the best way to get the most out of ur setup.

ex system
upgrade ur 2.5 inch downpipe to 3 inch,
highflow cat,
3 inch catback
and a good muffler, not a flow master,a flow master muffler will actually hurt ur spool time
a cutout close to the turbo is great
any or all of the above will improve turbo response and or spool time and high rpm power specially at higher boost levels

lil more in depth upgrades
these work great
cam a melling mtc=5 or 260 grind will really wake the motor up with boost
same with ported heads

these 2 cams will not require computer mods and will wake up even a very mild turbo setup

nitrous
ever see what a 35 shot of nitrous does to a car on 7 psi?
that 35 shot just got u 75-100 hp but u better know what ur doing
again not something recommended for the newbie

METHANOL INJECTION
works wonders
increase power by cooling air charge
also allowing for more timing and more boost
not the cheapest fo mods but one well worth the money

project89

iTrader: (1)

FEW WARNINGS
this one is for maf cars

DO NOT ATTEMPT to run without the maf plugged in or hooked up to the inlet side of the turbo

severe detonation will occur

without the the maf hooked up the ecm does not know how much load is on the motor and will advance the timing way to far under boost resulting in detonation

SD & MAF CARS

CTS and IAT sensors make sure they both work and read correctly
a fault in either sensor can result in a lean condition and or to much ign timing resulting in detonation

EGR VALVE

i forgot to mention this before but

the back pressure pre turbo side can get higher then what the egr valve can hold shut against its a good idea to make a stealth block off plate and install it between the tb neck and egr tube

project89

iTrader: (1)

FAQ

#1 how much boost can i run on a stock motor
none can put a definitive limit on this,its all upto how u have it running afr/timing etc u can take 2 identical motors one at 5 psi but runs lean and detonates and one at 18 psi thats setup perfect afr and does not detonate the 5 psi motor will let loose long before the motor running 18 psi

#2 what else int he driveline to i need to upgrade
nothing for most stock stuff is fine just dont beat the living **** out of it everyday.
t5 cars dont bolt sticky tires on the car and expect the trans/rear to last.

automatic cars ull start to see problems above 300 hp though the rear is typically safer in a automatic car
mainly the stock converter will break, the s10 units are even weaker, but most ppl going over the 300 hp mark will already have adressed this issue with an aftermarket converter

#3 does it get good gas milage
sure does just dont put ur foot into the throttle all the time and ull never know the turbo was there,actually see a slight increase

#4 Will it pass inspection
Not A Chance
unless u live in a state that does not require emmisions testing
so be prepared to remove the setup for inspection or have to pay for a sticker


add more later

cooltc2004

iTrader: (4)

I didnt see mention of tuning your ECM, is this needed for the 7psi?

project89

iTrader: (1)

i could have sworn i added that ona maf based car alls u need is a set of 305 injectors ( 19# ) and ur good for 7 psi 9 psi tops. after that u need an fmu

speed density cars i cannot tell u how much boost is safe on a stock ecm, u may be able to run 7psi the same way but i do not know at most u will need an adjustable fmu and a way to monitor afr on an sd car

SageMoonblade

I am gonna guess you aren't going to say much about ECM swaps and and standalone systems.

project89

iTrader: (1)

the only one i can do is a megasquirt writeup, i didnt mess with the stock ecm long enough, i maxed the stock maf ecm started using an fmu,then went right to megasquirt

SageMoonblade

Don't suppose you have a good/easy wiring schematic for the Megasquirt to fit a GM f-body? That sure wouldn't hurt lol.

project89

iTrader: (1)

thes for a v2.2 main board, if u buy a premade harness each wire is labeled down the wire every 3 inches, it literally tells u were to hook it up,i will be doing a full writeup soon, to do a fuel only install)leaving the stock ecm for timming and other features) should take the avg person 4 hours

project89

iTrader: (1)

#5 will the stock fpr work
the stock fpr may be used with an fmu
but on cars not utilizing an fmu the stock fpr/afpr is not a good idea,the stock/after market Bolton fpr will not increase fp with boost.
so for every pound of boost u run u will lose 1 psi of fuel pressure ,
so at 10 psi of boost ur fp is down to 35psi killing the amount of flow from ur injectors and possibly leaning the motor to the point of detonation.


To install and aftermarket one generally requires u to gut the stock unit,and install the new unit into the return line of the fuel rail.

u do not have to gut the stock one though u can install the new regulator int he return line with the stock one inplace but this way will not allow for presure drop at idle, and u will not be able to adjust the base presure down from stock.so its deff much better to remove the torx bolts form the stock fpr and remove the diagram completely when installing a fpr into the return line.