i have a 91 camaro rs 3.1 v 6 currently i'm getting about 15 mpg and I know it should be higher. Also when i'm driving i'm getting a stuttering feeling when i'm driving. It almost felt like it was misfiring, but this doesnt happen consistently. I checked my fuel pressure regulator and confirmed that my gas was not leaking into the vachumn line. I checked and cleaned all of the injectors. i applied a 12 v sorce to each injector and they all clicked i also tested the resistance and they all tested between 11 and 13 ohms. one did test 19 ohm's though. I have a new fuel filter already installed and i have a new O2 sensor, distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires.

 

If your ride has close to or over 100K on the clock..the timing chains arent high quality.I went after mine with 130K as I was doing a water pump.I am glad I did it too..big improvement.Just a suggestion though(this might increase your fuel mileage).Second,if your dealing with stock injectors ..there is many complaints on these,with that one thats 19 Ohms I would start there and just ditch them and get some new ones or recondition ones.I have been suggesting the Ford 2.9L injectors to people on a budget,if not Accel makes some.I have the Ford set in mine and I havent had any issues with them.(idles and accelerates great)Third,if you replace the injectors and still have problems then you might have a intermitted vacuum leak...possible EGR,Charcoal Canister Solenoid..etc.But you need to start somewhere..hope this helps

 

should have been 9 ohms not 19. would it work if i just replaced the one injector and see what happens? I'm was hoping i could fix it with out paying over 500 to just replace them all.

 

yeah go for it...see if that works.The Ford injectors arent expensive..do a search for the thread "Ditch your stock injectors".A guy on Ebay sells them reconditioned as well?.I am suggesting those cause if one goes out then the others arent far behind.But to see if that one helps for diagnostic purposes ..yeah

 

I replaced my injectors with the 2.9's, and cleaned my throttle body, and air intake sensor. I have a definate improvement of power and hopefully gas mileage. I forgot to state that before when i accelerated I noticed a stutter. I had hoped that changing the injectors would fix this, but unfortunately not. I'm trying to get ahold of a fuel pressure gauge to test my fuel pressure. I was also wondering how to check the EGR. I have an electronic EGR and it looks like there are three seperate sensors?

 

You didnt state if your car is manual or auto..cause a shutter can be in the transmission?.The digital EGR has three solenoids..each one has an orifice or small hole under each solenoid.To check them you need to get a wiring schematic for one,or better yet a diagnostic flow chart.You are going to basically check for power to the EGR and disconnect it. then supply power(via-wire) to one terminal while the car is running and grounding each solenoid(via-another wire) ..while noticing a change in idle rpms.One has such a small hole it was kinda hard to hear the rpms drop..but you need to get a flow chart to find out which one you need to supply power too and ground while its running.I know at the top(if your looking at it over the pass.fender) of the EGR harness top connector is "D"(power supply) and underneath that is "B" (EGR 2) and bottom left is "A"(EGR 3) and bottom right connector is "C"(EGR 1).If I am correct your going to supply a power wire to "D" connector and ground each solenoid B,A,and C which will open each solenoid and you should feel a RPM drop.Sorry I dont have a chart available to post maybe someone else has one and can post it.But its something like that.

 

I have a manual transmission. I'm in the process of replacing my transmission mount which just broke. The problem i'm having is only evident when i accelerate. I can feel the power now with the new injectors but when i accelerate thats when i feel the stutter like its trying but just cant. I had been thinking it was misfiring but with the new injectors and I know my plugs, distributor cap, rotor are just over a year old I'm pretty sure the plugs are fairly new too.

 

Hate to say it but its down to a process of elimination now..check fuel pressure..timing set at?.If you have a adjustable timing light you can check timing at higher RPMS.I would start with the trans mount,did it break cause of wear or did you do that?.cause if it was still good and it broke for no reason ,then I would look into some bad motor mounts etc.When I had a manual and had a shutter it was due to oil on the flywheel or burnt clutch disc(too many burn-outs) has hot spots on the flywheel?.but if you say its not in the trans then you need to do some checking and post them or compare it to specs from a manual?