When I start up the car it immediately revs up to 2000 rpms and sometimes 1500. I tried adjusting the idle set screw I put it back at 900 rpms in park and it worked 1 time and is right back at it. At stop signs it sometimes drops to 500 rpms and quickly revs up to 1300 and moves the car forward. I don't think it is a vaccum problem because there is no hissing




what is wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!????????

 

Have you recently disconnected the battery? If so need to do an idle learn. Not having done that will cause the idle drop and surging. Since you have moved the throttle stop screw an idle learn needs to be done anyway.

The startup flair is for the most part is normal.

An item that helps is to clean the throttle body. This is the inside around where the blade sits along with the edges of the throttle blade. I usually spray carb-cleaner on a rag and wipe it out. Then the same for the blade.

Wear some rubber or nitrile gloves when you do this. Can also use a large screwdriver to prop open the linkage. All in all it is a pain, but it makes a big difference.

Once this is done then do the idle learn.

RBob.

 

The rpms stay up even when the car is at operating temp. And stays up at that rpm until i put it in drive and even at that its at 1200 rpms and when its warmed up 600 rpms.

oh and i just remebered it also hesitates while driving around 45mph and when coming off of a stop

 

Auto Zone sells a rebuild kit for these and its cheap..4-5 bucks..comes with throttle body gasket..o-rings etc.You then can take the two bolts holding on the throttle body and clean it out on the bench.Thought i would throw that out there..

 

Yes, for the 4-5 bucks removing the TB would make it a lot easier to clean.

92birdy, it may be that the IAC is getting sticky. Which will cause the symptoms you mention. You can R&R it and clean it up some. But need to be careful as it is a step motor that runs the pintle.

RBob.

 

just cleaned the tb and did an idle learn it worked once and is back at it again is it a map sensor?

 

MAP sensors rarely go bad. Although the vacuum line between it and the manifold can crack and cause issues.

Did you do anything with the IAC while cleaning the TB?

RBob.

 

No my dad wouldn't let me take it off because i didn't have enough time but i took the cans cleaner tube and sprayed around it as best as i could. is there a way to jimmy rig anything with it because when i bought the car things were unplugged like the tcc because it was broke is it a possibility they did this?


when i take off the mounting bolts is it going to spring out on me because i have bad luck with things with springs? (i.e. i blew up my power window switch trying to take it out and pieces broke)

 

No it don't spring out, just note they say not to get cleaners in the switch.
Just clean the tip and the holes it seats in, don't soak the whole things down.

Hold it so the tip points down, and spray down, so it don't go inside.


Though your problem sounds like normal loop mode operation.
Mine has always done the same thing when its cold / the sensors aren't up to temp. Then once warm it stops doing it and idles fine.

 

i found yet another clue .... when i went to the gas station my fuel cap used to hiss when i unscrewed it... not now though.




and it does it when it is at all temps but the worst surgeing is at regular op temp and is now at 2100 rpms at start until i put it in drive which knocks it down to 1500 and if i idle down my street it almost shifts it self