Is the TPS sensor on the 1992 3.1 adjustable? If not what is the procedure for checking to see if it is good or bad?

Thanks in Advance,
Matt

 

The TPS is NON-adjustable stock. If you look for a post a few weeks back that I posted with pictures, you'll see how to modify your TPS to make it adjustable. If I can find the thread, I'll post a link, as I can't post the same pic on more than one thread.

 

MaverickH1L, how adjustable does this make the TPS, I found the post you were referring to. My car has what i would call a dead spot in it when you get in the gas gently and the car is rolling. The cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, and control module have all been replaced on the car. I haven't ever replaced the pick-up coil in the distributor. Is this a fault in the TPS or some other sensor on the car?

 

I have also yet to move the IAT sensor from the stock location in the V6 canister to the location on the TPI dual snorkle intake.

 

Let's try this again:

It is possible that the TPS has a dead spot. I've seen it happen. The TPS is what is known as a rheostat, a coil of wire attached to a known voltage with ground at the other end that has a varying resistance along its length, and a "wiper" that moves along the coil to send a varying voltage to the ECM. It's possible that part of the resistance wire has a break and the wiper doesn't sense any voltage at that point.

You can relocate the IAT, but I don't think that is your problem. I had been running mine outside of my intake system for over a year without problems. All that does is to give the ECM the ambient air temp so it can fine tune the ignition and fuel tables.

 

I haven't put the thought of it having a dead spot out of the question. It only does it or is noticable when you accelerate from a slow cruise. It may be passing that point in the TPS so fast it doesn't register upon hard acceleration. The car is currently at my parents house and i don't have access to it since i am at school. In a few weeks i'm going home to pic it up and i'm trying to get a game plan together to tackle the fer hiccups it has right now.

 

You don't necessarily need to get a new one, either. Depending on the yard, you can nab one from an FWD car or an F-body V6 (or V8, not sure?) between the 88 and 95.5 model years. Heck, some places might sell a sensor "set" like my fav yard did a couple years ago with the TPS, IAC, and CTS all in a bag. As long as it works, does it matter how much you pay for it?

(If you do go to a yard, DO NOT try to get one from a 3x00 engine as these are different)

 

Thanks for the info man. I'll have to call around and see what all i can round up.

One other thing the car was doing the last time i started it up, when you start it for the first time it struggles and idle really low like its wanting to flood out. After the inital start the car is fine until it sits for an extended period of time.

Since i have owned the car i have replaced the heater core, speed sensor, removed the cat, fuel pump, did the major tune up, rebuilt the trans at 212,xxx, went through a couple control modules and trans mounts. The car now has around 23x,xxx miles on it and to my knowledge everything else is orignal to the car.

 

I'd do a fuel pressure check. Seems like you have either a leaking injector or 2 (or more) or you have a sticking EGR pintle causing the rough start and run until it warms up. The fuel system should hold it's base fuel pressure (mine happens to be 43 PSI, but I've read that it can be as high as 47) for 20 minutes after the system is pressurized and the pump shuts off (engine not running, of course).

:edit: IAC motor could be getting a little sluggish as well. When was the last time you cleaned it?