ok, i have a 90 Rs with 3.1 v6 (115k). the cars original problem was it was started driven about half a mile, idled for about 3 minutes, driven for 1/4 of a mile then died while driving.

i got ahold of the car it would run for about 5 seconds then die. if you let it sit over night it would idle and run fine for about a minute before it died. i found that i can run the car by spraying gas into the TB so that led me to believe it was a fuel related problem. i check fuel pressure its 40 with the fpr plugged and about 43 unplugged. so the fuel pumps priming and holding pressure. changed fuses around and the car started to run without shutting down. i then started looking into the icm and the pick-up coil. i replaced the pick-up and icm just for SAG. i got the car to run, but its running rough(kinda like a diesel sound) and it chokes from a idle rev and spark knocks.

i have checked sensors for signal voltage and the only one that tells me something is the egr its getting 12v and when you unplug it the car doesnt run any different. also if i block the inlet tube it runs no better either. the tps is moving voltage smoothly and in spec, the iacv works and operates(open a vaccum line and the iacv compensates). unpluggin the coolant temp sensor it causes the fans to come on and the engine to idle up. i have removed the front covers and inspected the chain and its in good shape and in time. replaced the ecm(orginal prom) and didnt fix the problem, but i was wondering if the prom was bad instead of the board.


i ohmed out the injectors and found low, 10.5 10.2 and 7.6. i replaced the injectors with injectors that ohm 12.5 and came from a working car. i thought that was the fix, but that was a no go. pulled the pump and inspected the hose on the pump and its new since the pump was replaced about a year ago.

im at my wits end with this car, its my mothers and im at the point to send it to the junkyard and give her my second car.

i think im losing it from this car

im thinking either bad prom or vats

 

have you checked to see if the injectors are clean and not clogged?

 

Did you put a timing light on it and make sure it was at 10 - 14* BTDC?

 

yea the timing is on point but it doesnt change a thing. the injectors are clean from what i see, the car once it comes from about idle it revs fine and has its power. but when you drive the car you cant drive the car because it has no power at all.

 

Run a compression test and post results.

 

will do

 

Are you getting a code 43? That would seriously kill the power as the ECM doesn't know how far to advance the ignition timing due to not receiving a proper knock sensor signal. The knock sensor is screwed into the coolant passage down by the starter. Make sure the connector is on and tight.

Also check the MAP sensor line for damage. The line comes out of the small nipple on the back of the upper plenum and goes straight into the MAP, which is bolted to the cowl. Have any vac lines been replaced recently? They may need it. Also, check the PCV valve for proper working by shaking it. If it doesn't rattle, it needs to be replaced.

 

sorry for not posting back in awhile i was welcoming my new son into the world.

but as far as the map sensor goes, after i drive it i throw a random map sensor code, even though the map is off a working car.

 

Reread my above statement... It's a good starting point. Even if the MAP is off of a working car doesn't mean it's putting out a signal within the ECM tolerances.

 

ok, compression is within spec(middle range) and nowhere near the 20 psi range between cylinders.

ok, the map i had was bad, i replaced it and no more cel's. the car throws a random ses light while driving, but it goes away and cannont be pulled from the ecm.

i again checked the timing its in spec i have it set to factory with the single wire unplugged.

the car idles fine(alittle rough) but once you add the need for vaccuum it bogs down, you toss it in gear and it bogs almost until it dies...sometimes it does die. the car again has no power. how do i check to see if the torque converter lock up is working"?

 

i had a simular prolem it turned out to my my ign mod under my dizzy cap ! if you already replace it check it out or buy a new one i notice and i waz to they only act up when they get underload and when the get hot good luck !

 

Did you check the vacuum lines? Especially the ones to the charcoal canister, cruise modulator and vacuum tank, and the one to the PCV valve?

It could be the ignition module... Does the tach bounce while accelerating? It may not do this at a constant speed, but it will do it when accelerating, at which point, you want to seek another module before the one it has now WILL leave you at the side of the road.

 

haha, the tach on this car never worked. it always read wrong. the vac line look good. im starting to think its the gas. because everything seems to work and anything i do doesnt fix the issue.

 

ok, also does anyone have a picture of the injector plug layout? i want to make sure i have the order right.