91 rs v6 3.1 l
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 42
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From: long island , new york
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 3.1 v6 baby
Transmission: 700r4
91 rs v6 3.1 l
hello,
recently my car started leaking oil . now when i have it running at idle oil comes out in a little puddle. it seams like its were the tranny nd engine connect . does anyone have an idea what this can be ?
thanks
recently my car started leaking oil . now when i have it running at idle oil comes out in a little puddle. it seams like its were the tranny nd engine connect . does anyone have an idea what this can be ?
thanks
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 42
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From: long island , new york
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 3.1 v6 baby
Transmission: 700r4
Re: 91 rs v6 3.1 l
my buddy also said rear main seal . is that hard to fix ? can it be done myself ? als around how much would that cost ?
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Re: 91 rs v6 3.1 l
It's probably the distributor o-ring instead; almost all of us have had that happen (multiple times too through the years). As the o-ring gets old, it dries out from the heat, and cracks- then the oil drips down the back of the engine. Costs ya $1.00 at the dealer; you'll have to pull the distributor out to change it.
When the engine's cold (and OFF/not running) reach under the distributor cap and touch the engine. If you find oil there, it's that distributor o-ring.
Much cheaper/easier then a rear seal.
When the engine's cold (and OFF/not running) reach under the distributor cap and touch the engine. If you find oil there, it's that distributor o-ring.
Much cheaper/easier then a rear seal.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,615
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From: PA
Car: 1996 Camaro, 1985 Camaro
Engine: 3.8, 3.4
Transmission: WC T5, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23(?), 3.42
Re: 91 rs v6 3.1 l
but if its the RMS, you're in for some fun, you will have to pull the engine, remove the oil pan, the pump, and I can't recall for sure but you might even have to take off the flexplate.Hadn't thought of the dizzy o-ring, but I would say definitely start there first.
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 42
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From: long island , new york
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 3.1 v6 baby
Transmission: 700r4
Re: 91 rs v6 3.1 l
jeez sounds like fun at that point im prob better off swapping the motor to like a 3.4 l v6 froma 93 camaro or something . how complicated is something like that ? adn would i need a new transmissin as well
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,615
Likes: 5
From: PA
Car: 1996 Camaro, 1985 Camaro
Engine: 3.8, 3.4
Transmission: WC T5, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23(?), 3.42
Re: 91 rs v6 3.1 l
Unless there is something wrong with your transmission there is no reason you would need a new one, and how complicated is the 3.4 swap or how complicated is removing the engine to replace the RMS? But either way you should check the dizzy o-ring first...its an easy fix if that is the leak.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 42
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From: long island , new york
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 3.1 v6 baby
Transmission: 700r4
Re: 91 rs v6 3.1 l
how complicated is the 3.4 swap i was thinking about doing that but what is needed ? and does it bolt right up ?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,615
Likes: 5
From: PA
Car: 1996 Camaro, 1985 Camaro
Engine: 3.8, 3.4
Transmission: WC T5, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23(?), 3.42
Re: 91 rs v6 3.1 l
More or less it does, see the sticky:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/4...swap-read.html
After reading the swap article/s let me know if you still have questions, but those should give you an idea what all goes into it.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/4...swap-read.html
After reading the swap article/s let me know if you still have questions, but those should give you an idea what all goes into it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 42
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From: long island , new york
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 3.1 v6 baby
Transmission: 700r4
Re: 91 rs v6 3.1 l
ok guys so i felt behind the distributor like you guys told me and sure enough theres a little puddle of oil and the back of the block is wet. so i went out and bought the o-ring. now i was just wondering do you guys know were i can find instructions on how to change it ? or can you be kind enough to write me some.
thanks for the help guys,
1sckrs
thanks for the help guys,
1sckrs
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: 91 rs v6 3.1 l
3rd gen, you may have had a 2-piece RMS, but the 86+ models have a 1-piece that only requires the trans and the flexplate/flywheel be removed to pull and replace the RMS, same as the cam cover, and your 3.4 as well.
Anyways, remove the dizzy cap and mark the position of the rotor as it sits now on the base of the dizzy. Pull the 15mm bolt out of the hold-down at the mount and remove the hold-down. Pull the dizzy up and hold it just inside the hole as you mark the second position of the rotor. Completely remove the dizzy. Also, reach down in the bore and get out the oil pump drive shaft, which is cleaned up really well. Remove the o-ring from the base of the dizzy, either by cutting it or sliding it off. There may be a second gasket on the dizzy base, which is also removed. Put the new gaskets on. Use a dab of assembly goo or petroleum jelly to hold the oil pump shaft in the dizzy gear, and lower the dizzy back into the hole. Align the rotor with the first mark on the dizzy base and lower the dizzy all the way down. The rotor should align with the second mark. If not, lower the dizzy some more to make sure it's in the hole and then turn it a bit to line up the mark and the rotor. Put the hold-down and bolt back in, and put the cap back on.
Anyways, remove the dizzy cap and mark the position of the rotor as it sits now on the base of the dizzy. Pull the 15mm bolt out of the hold-down at the mount and remove the hold-down. Pull the dizzy up and hold it just inside the hole as you mark the second position of the rotor. Completely remove the dizzy. Also, reach down in the bore and get out the oil pump drive shaft, which is cleaned up really well. Remove the o-ring from the base of the dizzy, either by cutting it or sliding it off. There may be a second gasket on the dizzy base, which is also removed. Put the new gaskets on. Use a dab of assembly goo or petroleum jelly to hold the oil pump shaft in the dizzy gear, and lower the dizzy back into the hole. Align the rotor with the first mark on the dizzy base and lower the dizzy all the way down. The rotor should align with the second mark. If not, lower the dizzy some more to make sure it's in the hole and then turn it a bit to line up the mark and the rotor. Put the hold-down and bolt back in, and put the cap back on.
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