I wanted to thank any of you who reply and help me out because i always come to this site to read other posts etc, and find all the information provided here very helpful, so now i have a big problem
Keep in mind i am not a Car Expert, so bare with me here

here are the stats

92 camaro v6 manual, RS 5 Speed.


So it all began with the Distributor busting on the Highway, got the car towed home and replaced the

Whole Distributor, Which Includes ECM, pickup coil ETC
Ignition Coil
Rotor Cap
Rotor Button
Spark Plugs Wire's
The Starter

Made sure the timing was all correct

Put it all together and car was not running correctly
The car was idling up and down between 750 and 1000, Had fuel burning rich.

Took it to get it tested and got an error code 35 Which is Idle Speed Error

So i have replaced this in the order posted

IAC-Idle Air Controlled Valve, When replaced the car would idle back and fourth then shut off , didnt happen with the old IAC, I did the steps for the "IDLE ReLearn" and nothing really.

TPS- Throttle Position Sensor


no SES light was on, would only come on when the car was at a light or stop light
Still had the problem so i got it tested again and got the same error code,

left O Reilys, and I noticed the RPM's were REALLY high about 2500 or so in Neutral. didnt think nothing of it till i got home and RPM's were still the same when in neutral, hit the gas a little to see if they dip down and nothing, then i replaced the EGR Valve


No vaccum leaks that I can find, I can go look again but ive checked a few times

Put all that together and cranked the car, and the RPMS went all the way to almost 5000! and it stayed there, and it was parked. So then we tried lowering the RPMS via throttle and Boom, car would not start, battery is ok, and i can hear the starter, but man oh man has this car been a pain, its my Daily Driver and im running out of funds to fix it so ill be screwed.

also if it matter we did check the Fuel Lines, to test to see if the fuel pump was working correctly, also we hear the fuel pump when we turn on the car, well when it did turn on :[, thanks in advance

 

Wow lots of info! Was the car running OK before the distributor was changed?

 

Yeah it was running completely fine, then on highway BAM, distributor got owned.

 

I was having similar problems and turned out my IAC was a little bit loose letting air in through the threads. The idle went down a by 1000 rpm's (from around 2000) and on a cold start it idles at 1500 and once warmed up it'll go to 900 and could idle there all day.

 

TPS wires somehow mixed up?

 

I'll see if I can find my GM shop manual tonight, to find out what code 35's diagnostic chart says...

 

Idle speed control

TPS stuck, wonr setting, bad wiring, open or short, bad IAC valve,
and the best part the end of ever code says or bad ECM.


[Stupid codes have rarley ever helped in all my problems. Our computers are stupid compared to newer.]

 

Everybody's suspecting the TPS... Which is non-adjustable on a 92. FSM says that any closed-throttle voltage coming out of the TPS that is less than .92VDC is acceptable and the ECM will adapt.

Check the MAP sensor signal between the green and black wires, its vacuum line connection at the rubber boots, and then the fuel pressure. Also make sure the o-ring in the IAC bore isn't damaged or missing. It also may be advisable to go around the engine and search for vacuum leaks not just at the lines but also where parts come together (valve covers come to mind).

 

Must be a 1992-thing because my '86 GM manual didn't have a diagnostic chart (or even the code) listed for it.

And yeah a code without a diagnostic chart is useless. Psychobilly92 you might have to find someone with the 1992 GM Service Manual to get your hands on that code 35 diagnostic chart; then you can run through all the checks (usually requires a meter & test light) to find the problem. But since everything seemed to happen after you changed the ignition system, I'd start there; is it possible the new distributor was put in so #1 was firing incorrectly at TDC of exhaust (and not compression)? Or the plug wires mixed up to use the wrong #1 cylinder?

 

sounds like he's on an exhaust stroke and not a compresion stroke, go back through and re check your timing and to see what stroke your on, make sure your plug wires are correct and tight then report back. remember the plug order goes 123456, 1 is on the passenger side, 2 is on the driver, and so forth.

 

Wow, that's so funny, I posted almost the exact same thing on another thread at 9:30 am today (at https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/5...ml#post4749716). It's like reading myself twice

Glad to hear we're all on the same idea , alot of ignition problems lately.

 

I got a 82-92 Haynes book so it list all the codes but doesn't say what year will throw what code.

 

Thanks for all the replies but i will go ahead and re check what you all posted, havent had a chance due to mid term studying and etc, i did read some where that when you install new parts you need to do something to the ecm so the ecm can adjust? something like that im not sure, maybe someone know what im talking about

 

Actually i Just received a 92 service manual so i will definetly go back and look what can cause a 35 idle speed error, what i had read on here that can cause that were things such as

-fuel pump
-EGR Valve
-IAC
-TPS
-Bad injectors (hope not)
Cant quite remember what else can cause idle speed error

but the thing is the car was running fine except the bad idle, so i changed the

-EGR Valve
-IAC
-TPS

and the idleing got worse, then the car would not start, and we didnt do anything other then swap those parts, so car clicks clicks clicks, just wont turn over, and there is spark coming from the distributor

 

Ah yeah see I didn't even think to look in the Haynes!

Yes you can do a re-learn on the ECM, basically for the Block Learn Multiplier and Integrator- someone who knows computer/PROM burning can explain what that means (I'm not even going to try, LOL) but basically it's how the computer figures out your what air/fuel settings your engine likes. To do re-learn, you just disconnect your negative battery cable for a while (like 5 minutes), reconnect it, and then you go for a drive on the highway for a 1/2 hour. You've gotta drive on the highway so the Multiplier gets reset.

Since you can't really get the car running, you could clear the computer out anyway (it wouldn't hurt to disconnect/reconnect the negative battery cable). But don't forget you'll lose your clock and your radio presets (and for high-end aftermarket radios, your EQ settings).

Cool to hear you got the GM book! Somewhere in that GM manual (for my '86, it's section 6) will be a whole diagnostic section, with a flowchart on each code. It'll have you measure and test things at each step, even tracing wires, and eventually you'll get a solution. Let us know how it goes! Who knows maybe you sucked a plastic bag into the air filter.

 

let me ask you this, can a bad ICM cause the car not to start?