My car is like redlining at 4000. Everytime I start it, it dies then i try to start it again and it dies it does this for like 3 or 4 times then it will finally start up then it automatically goes from 1k to 3k rpm then goes back down to one and my engine light comes on.Has anyone ever expierianced this please give me help.Its a 1988 2.8 t-5 5speed.

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Hektyk,
(Russell Wilson)
1988 Blue Pontiac Firebird with a red door.
2.8L MPFI V6 soon to be a 350.1982 Pontiac Trans-am triple gloss black,t-tops,cowl hood,1988 GTA package,4 wheel disc brakes,305 w/4 barrel carb.

 

will somwbody answer me please.

 

I am not sure, but it could be an EGR-(electrical part)problem.
It happened to me 2 or 3 years ago, I cleaned
it and it works fine now.


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www.marion-becker-nidda.de

 

I don't understand what you mean by redline at 4000. When you do get it started does it stay running or Does it keep going back and forth between 1k and 3k? If the engine light is coming on why don't you check to see what your getting for a code. that might pin point the area. I don't see how the egr would affect idle, all it does is lean out the fuel. But check that code.

 

Sounds like it might be the Ignition module.

 

What codes did you pull from the computer?

 

I got a MAF sensor code.Could this e whats wrong the MAF.And yes gunmetal it does idle between 1k and 3k it goes back and fourth like im revving my engine but Im not its doing it its self.

 

That does sound like the MAF sensor is bad... especially with the start/stall/start/stall routine.

The GM service manual's test for a bad MAF is simple. Unplug the connector, tie it out of the way of the fan belt & pullies.

Now go for a ride.. if your car doesn't act funny anymore (altho you will get the SES light), then your sensor is toast.

More tests:

1. Visual inspection: Remove the MAF. The orange frequency film inside should be flat, no wrinkles or ripples.

2. Odd test I haven't done: With the motor running, and you being careful, tap the MAF with a screwdriver to see if the idle speed changes. I haven't done it, so I don't know of the truth behind this.

3. Making sure the car wiring is ok: With the car off, unplug the MAF. Turn the Ignition switch "ON" (all dash lights show up), but don't start the car. Connect a voltmeter between the center terminal "B" of the MAF harness connector and a good ground (battery terminal). You should read 5.0 volts from the computer. Now connect a voltmeter between the harness terminals "A" and "C". You should read around +12 volts, this is the power sent to the MAF from the MAF relay.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

and tom hits the nail on the head with this one.. (yes the tapping on the sensor works, most of the time) :P

 

thanx guys youve been a big help

 

Hey that didnt help it does it when my car is cold and not warmed up.yet its fuel injected so its not like a carb.Is there a differant kinda problem now.

 

Ignition module

 

I dunno, I'd think if it was the ignition module, the car would work fine cold, and then stall when it's hot.

Coolant temp sensor?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

was your engine in good running shape. Oh yeah, do you have anything like white smoke coming out of your tail pipes? Not to scare you but my engine just died, well it still starts, the thing is that it does all the same things that you say yours is doing right now. Let's see, here's a discription. It turns on, races up to 4 grand, drops to 1 grand and knocks really loudly, then pushes itself up to 3 grand, before coming down and resuming a 1 grand idle, then the situation will repeat itself. This is supposedly the result of a bad headgasket, but the engine hasn't fully blown or cracked yet.

 

Ya dude thats what mines doing all right but if I head a blown head gasket wouldnt my car be overheating cause its not.When I first start it, it has white smoke coming out of the tail pipes but not after it starts running normally.It just dont have as much get up and go as it did last year when i got it.

 

how many miles do you have on that block?

 

My brother has a '92 Olds Cutlass w/ the 3.4L V6 DOHC engine. His did the same thing (the revving, crazy computer codes, no one could pinpoint the problem). It turned out to be the head gasket...

 

I think a $30 compression tester (get the one with an extension hose) would tell ya for sure. If the head gasket's blown, one side of the engine would have great #'s, while the other side would be crap.

There's also the "coolant in the oil" deal..


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

my car does the same thing, i have a 89 2.8. i was told that it might either be the idel control selonoid, or the mas air flowsensor. if the maf dies the car will run on the tps sensor. it could also be the cold air sensor, which is located in the air box housing. that would explain why the car stalls when cold. ill reply when i find out what it might be on my car. post any new news.

 

adjust your IAC...