I wanna get that SLP cold air intake. I have no idea how much work it will take to move the battery to the driver's side of the car!

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Jason E
'89 Camaro RS 2.8
Hypertech chip/K&N filters/Accel 8.8 wires/RapidFires
Eclipse CD and 100x4 amp/Boston plates and 6x9s
Alpine Alarm w/ Keyless entry
IROC tailights/tinted windows

 

If you are going to relocate your battery, why not relocate it to the back? It will transfer weight from the already too heavy front to the too light rear end. As the old saying goes, "If you can't eliminate the weight, move it to the rear instead".

FYI, the weight bias of an F-body is 63/37 between front and rear (V8). Helps with handling besides traction.

[This message has been edited by Glenn91L98GTA (edited November 15, 2000).]

 

I have enough plans for what little trunk space I have, without throwing the battery back there too Good idea in terms of weight distribution though! I won't throw it in the spare tire well either, as I travel too much to chance a flat.

BTW, where did you get those weight distribution #s? That seems outta whack...Grand Ams have a better weight distribution, and they're FWD.

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Jason E
'89 Camaro RS 2.8
Hypertech chip/K&N filters/Accel 8.8 wires/RapidFires
Eclipse CD and 100x4 amp/Boston plates and 6x9s
Alpine Alarm w/ Keyless entry
IROC tailights/tinted windows

 

i have an 87, and i just unbolted my fuel evap. canister and pushed it closer to the engine. i added my second battery there by cutting that small piece of metal on the upper driver side with a jigsaw.(sorry, hard to explain, but easy to see.) i'm not saying it's show quality(not sure of your intentions), but it works. i'm not sure how you are going to run your wires, i just ran one connecting wire from bat to bat.

thadd

 

Those weight distribution numbers were from 3 sources: 1) an old magazine article I had, 2) the GM's Manufacturers Specification booklet that I got when I had my RPO codes traced and 3) A test I did when I took my car to a Highway's Dept. weigh station.

Yup, that V8 sure does put a LOT of weight in the front.

As for the spare tire, I carry a can of "flat repair" with me. It does work on the typical "nail in the tire flat". In the nearly 10 years that I have owned my car, I have never inflated my spare saver tire. Where I live, the major highways have really no place to pull over and fix a flat anyways. I would hate to break down on one of those roads.

 

Jason, both sides of the car can accept a battery; in fact, on the other side, you'll find a hole drilled & tapped by GM to accept the battery-hold-down bolt. You won't need another battery tray or anything like that, you'd just have to move the vapor canistor. I'd imagine you could extend the vacuum and vapor hoses if you had to. Thadd's right on needing newer (longer) cables.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Thanks guys. And Glenn, I didn't mean to come off like I didn't believe you...I Was just surprised

I checked a few articles of my own, and you're right, those #s are dead on. Needless to say, I was very surprised.

 

No offense taken. I too was quite surprised and HAD to verify it myself. That is why I am always thinking of not only reducing weight but also shifting weight from the front to the rear.

A V6 is much better balanced car IMO. A friend of mine had a V6 Camaro and I was the first to admit that I really liked the way his car felt compared to my GTA. With proper suspension and engine mods, a V6 would have no problem leaving a V8 in the dust on a nice winding road.

Something for a V6 owner to think about when he's debating about hopping his V6 vs swapping in a V8.

 

Glenn, how did you check that yourself on the scales? Did you just pull half way on, and half way off? Sounds like something I should do on my next Englishtown Raceway trip!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Glenn,

I agree, I like the way V6s feel better as well. Thats why I plan on hopping up the 6. All I want is something approaching a 305 TBI/5 speed (7.5 sec 0-60). The plan is to throw on IROC swaybars and rims, and leave the rest stock, save for poly bushings. Then I have a car that is more than able to keep up with just about anything in the twisties, and it'll ride better than an IROC too!

 

TomP, I did it a Government Weigh Station. They is one local and I drove upto it on a Sunday when no one was there.

The scale has provisions to test individual axles and both. So I drove with the front wheels on the first part, then put both on, then just the back.

In each case, I stepped out of the car so not to bias the weight and to ensure that my weight for the front and back equaled my total weight.

I have also gone to other weigh stations to ensure the readings were reasonable and all (except one) were within 10 Kg of each other with the same amount of gas.

FYI, the total weight of my GTA (no driver, minimal gas, no spare tire) is 3,410 lbs. I was expecting it to be heavier. Must be that aluminum axle, cross-laced wheels and aluminum rear drums.

YES...my car came stock with aluminum rear drums stock. RPO J42 on my SPID and on the copy of the RPO codes that I got from GM of Canada Vintage/Historical Services when I wanted to document my RPO codes.

 

Okay, sounds interesting. I suppose this wouldn't work with a full-length scale, then?

My most recent track run showed me at 3370 pounds, with 140 lbs of me in the seat, and 1/4 tank of gas.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

I think it might work with a full length scale designed to weigh an entire car. You'd just have to be careful to ensure that you move the center of the car off the scale at the same part, or you may affect the bias between front an rear. The adding of both together to ensure it equals the total weight is a good verification.

But with a full-length it might be like trying to weigh yourself on a bathroom scale with only one foot on the scale at a time.

PS: Man your car is light. That would work out to be only 3,230 lbs with no driver (and I am assuming minimal fuel).

 

Heh, that's just what I was thinking of- one foot on a bathroom scale. Well it's something for me to think of for next racing season. Plus I think I'd have to find the exact center of the scale... I bet I'd tick some people off if I got out, measured the scale with a tape measure, marked it, did all the measurements, etc- all while they're waiting in line!

I also removed my a/c compressor, condensor, and accumulator (left the evap in against the firewall). I suppose the car'd be lighter still if I went back to aluminum wheels. I'm going to a junkyard tomorrow; hopefully I find an aluminum driveshaft, altho I haven't yet. It's RPO JG1, right? Or I think a 1LE would tell me too...


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

You think TomP's car is light... If you've got A/C, RIP IT OUT! Nothing like removing another 40lbs from in FRONT of your front tires! Hehehehehe...

I let a Mustang owner ('91 GT, 5.0L) take my Camaro for a spin recently, since he's thinking about buying it from me to be his second car. He was completely amazed at how well my Camaro handled! I was kinda shocked, because he's upgraded some of the suspension on his Mustang, while I've just replaced springs and shocks for slightly better than OEM. Hehehehehe...

 

Camaros and 'Birds have always hugged the road better than Mustangs. Think about it...Mustangs (when compared to an Fbody) have always been taller and narrower. The higher center of gravity and the softer suspension setup have always left Mustangs with a mushier feeling. Even when hopped up, you can't make a taller, narrower car handle as good.

My ex's '87 Mustang GT with 225 width V rated Goodyear Eagle VR60s never handled anywhere near as good as my car with 215 width H rated Firestone Firehawks. My tires are a far less agressive all season tire, but it was no comparison...mine was way better.

 

Aluminum drive shaft is RPO JG1. My GTA has one, not sure if ALL GTAs from every year had one. Scope out some wrecking yards, they are easy enough to verify. They look light grey and if you place a magnet on them, it falls off.

A lot more cars came with the aluminum drive shaft than just 1LE cars.