Ok I recently bought myself a 1988 Firebird which is running with the 2.8L V6 MPFI for payments equaling $1400. When I bought the car the owner told me it needed some work. I did a easy tune-up (Plugs & Wires, Cap, and Rotor) which I kinda KNEW it needed. It was running with the originals. So I finished the changes no problem. Went to start it up and nothing. I have the right Plugs and ****, but can't seem to get it started. I checked the plugs to make sure they had the scent of fuel on them. Checked the fuel lines and filter all good. Check to make sure I had to plugs wired correctly (Correct). Just don't know what else to check. I love the thing I just want to get it running is all. If anyone could give me a list of things to check I would appreciate it.

 

Well did it run before you did your tune up?? If so id check everything you just replaced..Mabey the rotor is on a dif. way then you took it off, or mabey you bumped a wire somwhere, mabey the wire that goes from the coil to the ICM(dizzy).

Id jsut recheck everything you took apart and make sure the firing order(plug wires) is right and the cap/rotor is on correct. Did ya gap te plugs?? Im not sure im just throwing some ideas out.

 

I gaped the plugs, checked the firing order and I put the rotor back on the way I took it off... I'm know a little about engine work that's why I'm here to see what the problem could be... Also when I turn the key I hear my fuel pump engage but then It doesn't shut off... What would cause that? I have to replace one of the coil wires also because it broke when I checked my coil... Hoping that might be the cause but not 100% sure...

 

Did the car run before you did this tune up???

 

Check for spark, fuel pressure, & injector pulse.

 

Yea it did... It just had some stalling and starting issues which I thought with doing the tune-up would help fix

 

You sure you got the firing order correct?

You in front of the car the plugs would go in this order with plug #1 being on the passenger side.

5 6
3 4
1 2

Check to make sure the plugs at the distributor are all the way in and that the coil wire is nice and snug. If the plugs smell like they have gas on them then check for spark. If you have spark then I would check fuel pressure and the injectors. If you can get it running I would hook up a timing light and see where it's at. I had the distributor hold down bolt come loose on me before just enough to throw my timing off and make the car run like crap.

 

I talked to my old boss who has over 15 years experience working on vehicles and he told me to check for spark (as many said), check timing (as you said), check the mass airflow sensor which could cause it to run like ****, and check my wires that connect to my Ignition Coil. I checked the wires on my ignition coil and I found one that looks like it's bad so I'm going to order a new one. Once I get that changed I will be able to check the rest of the solutions. Hopefully this helps. @Firebird904 I know the plugs are set correctly and everyone of the wires are snug. Only question I have now is what would cause my Fuel Pump to continuously run without building pressure enough to shut it off before starting? What would I have to fix and how would I have to fix it? I'm still new but I'm a quick learner and have resources to help.

 

Suprised no one else gas said this but check your ignition control module. You nay have bumped it or disconnected it while doing the cap.

 

The fuel pressure has NOTHING to do with how long the fuel pump runs. The ECM has no way to monitor the fuel pressure. The initial prime is 2 seconds, period. After that, either the ECM has to see reference pulses from the ignition module, or the oil pressure has to be above 15 PSI to kick in the oil pressure switch, both to run the pump. Check the connections at the fuel pump relay. Lot of people have problems with the insulation coming off of the terminal ends of the wires and the wires shorting out or breaking (I replaced 2 relays, rewired one, and killed off one due to this).

Other than that, the first thing to check is the spark, and also make sure your injector harness is still connected at BOTH ends...

 

Definitley make sure the ignition module on the distributor is still plugged in good. Then Check for spark, fuel pressure on the rail. Seems like if it ran before you're either not getting spark now, or youre not getting fuel..

 

Thats what I was thinking atm I have to replace one of the connectors that goes to my coil. Then I will be able to check and see if that works and if not at lease I know that I fixed something that was gonna go bad soon.

 

If all else fails take the ICM and the wire that runs to the coil from the ICM to auto zone and have them test if before you pay for a new one . I did that with my car and yup it turned out to be the IMC.

 

so autozone does ICM testing? did not know that... will have to take it in... I was talking to a friend who said I should just scrap my original 2.8 and get a 4.3 for it... would that be a good easy swap? I mean the 4.3 is almost similar to a 350 just in a v6 format right?

 

Yea autozone will test it for free..

That swap (2.8 to a 4.3L) isnt easy, its a 90degree motor, not a 60* like the 2.8L 3.1L 3.4L. For the time and effort in that swap you might as well put a V8 in the car.

But another option is a 3.4L out of a forth gen camaro. Thats the easiest swap you gonna get if you want to keep a V6 in the car. And its got 160Hp compared to you 135Hp on a fuel injected 2.8L. Theres lots of threads on engine swaps on here, so search arround and see what ya wana do.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/4...swap-read.html

Read this thread! It should help you decide "if" you want to swap a motor in your car and if you do, which one would be what you want. Enjoy!!

 

thanks ed... I just want to make a sleeper V6 is all... when people ask what I'm running I say a v6 and then whoop their ***... its gonna be a project... also I've had my eyes on a 86 bird that a guy did a 350 swap... he wants $1000 and the vehicle is in excellent shape... does that sound like a good deal?

 

Yea i want a sleeper V6 too someday. I really have everything to turbo my car, just not the exhaust piping and time.. But I like the idea of it being a 13 sec car someday.

That sounds like a good deal, alothough ya really wouldnt know till ya seen it in person and saw how solid of a car it is. Sounds too cheep though to be good. But thats just my opinion.

 

well I guess according to the owner it runs great but a little sluggish off yhr start... my guess is that the timing is off... but once again thanks ed for the help and once I get to working on the parts I will update on the status... I mean I'm from new York and a firebird this clean is unheard of up there... gotta love Texas lol

 

Yea tell me about it! Im in ohio and its hard to find clean 3rd camaros/firebirds. Salt just kills them. And if ya do find one they beat the living crap out of it.

 

I got 2 atm and each have NO rust at all... if u want I could ship u one lol just u need to pay haha

 

Same thing happened to my camaro, wound up being a bad ignition control module. pick one up at autozone, could be your problem. only like 40$$

 

I picked up a new one and it's still not starting... I just recently broke the cable going from the Distributor to the ICM... Hopefully that fixes my problem...

 

Did you have a parts place(autozone) test it?? The ICM. I sure did.. didnt wana spend 40 bucks on something that wasnt wrong with the car.. Look in the junk yards for the wire and pig tail your talking about. If you can test the wires for resistance Ohms. using a Dmm or VOM meter. Those meters are worth their weight in gold. I do HVAC so ive got the best there is..And its payed for itself 10 times over..

 

The ICM is good... Had it tested also... Now I'm hoping it's just the wire... Gotta get to the Junk yard soon... I miss driving lol

 

Go to #5 post & do what it says, so you stop replacing parts that you don't need.

 

ex-x-fire I have they r good... Now all i need to replace is the wire and it should start...