Ok I'll look at the logs and see what I find.

 

yeah i suspect 4 more psi will put u up around 300hp or about 30#'s of air per min

every pound of boost will be around 9-13 hp per pound of boost

at 250 hp u are making 110 more hp then stock and well with 10 psi that is roughly 10hp per pound of boost

be aware thoughas the gains from boost are not linear u might gain more hp going from 14-15 psi then u do from going from 7-10 psi

 

btw post some datalogs from ur track passes

 

Heres the map I was using as a reference its a 57 trim to4e. Isnt that the comp I have?? If this is correct then 26-28 #/min and 1.68 press ratio does toss me out of eff a little at WOT 5k+rpms. Thats the psi im running now. Its arround 70% But is there a better more accurate way to find the pressure ratio then just 14.7+my current psi/14.7? Or is that the way to do it?

 

The one I took isnt good. Still dealing with KR but I had pure Vp 100 in the tank also just to make sure it wouldnt get hurt. I can not figure out how to get rid of the kr and its really inoying!!

 

the turbo u have has dosent match any garret maps, but the gt3076 is the closest, so use the map i posted

14.7psi = a pr of 2.0
21psi is roughly 2.5 pr
etc etc

the knock is prolly somethign rattling around im going to take a look at the log here in a few mins

 

back in 2006 i calc'd my pressure ratio at 2.2 with my 3.4

 

@dave ill use that map, the log has KR scattered in it. Its not a lot but its there. I just cant figure out whats rattleing

The more I look at that map, the more sence it makes on why it was very slow at say 6-8psi compared to the 10.5 or so im running now. I remember it was really a let down the first times I ran it with boost and the tune was good. But as soon as I got the controler and set it up to 11psi it was a new feeling.

If I get to take it to the track on saturday its suppose to be 50degrees out, thats 35degrees less then last week so Ill have nice low intake temps. I really just want to make a 13sec pass have less of that innoying KR. And im still looking into getting some alky in the near future.


@34blazer

 

when i calc'd 2.2 pr for the 3.4 it was with 20psi boost. your turbo is barely working and begging for more lol

 

thats deffinatly false kr, the only issue i see so far is ur getting close to being out of injector so only raise boost 1 psi at a time and keep an eye on afrs, u may have enough injector left to get 4 more psi of boost out of them, all depends if u want to push them past 80% duty cycle, i personally will run an injector upto 95% if im not turning the motor more then 6,500 rpms

 

How the $%^& am i suppose to get rid the the False KR..lol??

Im tuneing right now and im up to 13psi with safe 11.7-12 afr and 86 max injector cycle but averaging 75 WOT DC %. Its running fine but I find my self looking at the plugs every tune as the KR is there, its about 1-4 degrees here and there. Its takeing the power away from me and I spent another hour trying to find anything loose? Could a ex. leak cause it??? There a slight one at the bottom of my downpipe, its barly noticable though.

This is driving me crazy its hard to adjust timing because if I raise it or lower it, the KR is still there. Im at 19.5 * of timing at this boost level...to much??

 

this is why i dont like knock sensors, make sure the connector on the knock sensor is also on tight and not loose.

are u sure the downpipe or the under k member pipe isnt touching when there is loa don the motor.

also make sure the trans mount isnt torn or worn out as the trans mouncing around can cause false knock.

a loose heat shield can cause false knock, same with suspension compnents


hows it running at 13 psi ? any new videos

 

Its running good, just worries me about the KR an its taking my timing away so its rich sometimes from the timing it takes away. And I just dont want some real KR to be mixed in with that false stuff. Although there is still about 3 gallons of Vp100 in the tank with 3 gal of 93 octane. So the gas is good in there.

I look back under the car where the down pipe and y pipe cross.

Ill get some videos and slips on saturday. Forcast is looking good. 50 and sunny. Im ready for a 13sec pass. I was just trying to dial in a 13psi chip if I get the chance to run it like that.

 

if you cant find anything loose, it may be a overtightened KS, causing it to be super sensitive. maybe try a OEM KS properly torqued unless you have replaced already? none of that autozone/advance garbage either. also keep in mind that race fuel will eventually contaminate O2 sensors due to lead in the fuel.

 

The gas is unleaded... just 100 octane.

You guys are really going to laugh but I think the false KR for the most part is gone now. I found a 9/16th socket laying right down by the radiator on the body that has the lip on it.


I went out and gave the car a good test and the only KR was when it shifted into 2 and 3rd but it went away fast and was very very little. A bit more (1-2*)when I was at about 90mph but I know that was real as the intake temps were getting up there. Its weird how hot out it is today..


0-60mph in 5.53 sec
0-95 in 12.51 sec
0-100 in 13.97 sec.

This was at 12.55psi

Ill have to dig up some stuff but I think thats faster then before.

 

Dug out some print outs and did the math comparing to my 14.37 run at the track the other day.

All the times (with the latest tune) were faster and in the long haul 0-100mph was .70 seconds faster. So I guess it did pick up speed. Its sad that my 0-60mph time was about .40 seconds faster on the street then on the track...Thats what a burn out will do I guess.

 

u need to get ur boost control fixed, u only build 10 psi in 1st gear then loose boost higher up in the rpms.

have u tried hooking the wastegate to manifold only yet and seeing if it does the same thing.

the boost drop off and slow boost building is costing u time at the track

 

I tried running the line up to the manifold before and still the boost was the same. It seems to always loose after I shift??

 

Look at this log dave. I seems to hold the boost but it just takes a little while to build. Bad intake temps again. I need to get that under control. Thankfully itll be about 35 degrees cooler on saturday Command boost was 12.55

I guess as looking at this latest log, I could just crank up the WG DC% a little at a time at the low MPH

 

wastegate not closing fast enough will make that happen .when the rpms drop the wastegate valve shoudl close slightly since there is less volume of gas, as rpms climb there is more volume that needs to be bypassed so the valve opens further

and or ur bov could be leaking

for now pull the wastegate and put some graphite lube on the valve stem of the wastegate then use ur hands and move the valve up and down and make sure it isnt sticking

the only other way u will experiance ur symptoms is if the turbine housing or turbine wheel is to large, but i know this isnt the case since i run a much larger turbo with a bigger turbine housing and wheel then u are .84 t3 housing with a stage 5 wheel
urs is only a t3 .63 with a stage 3 wheel

 

I dont know why its still doing it. I took a video, its long, and you can hear it die off when I shift, im not sure why that is. The rlf BOV is on the car, I took off the wastegate and its lubed up and good to go. The only other thing I can think of is my WG duty cycle is just too low, as im not really spiking any higher then the commanded boost it.

But it from what I remember it always lost boost a little between gears but now with 12-12.5 psi a 2-3psi drop is a big difference, but like I said it only happens sometimes where I notice it??

The cars still runs great and no KR is really present except for a dash which youll see in the video. It seems as if it does it sometimes and other times it doesnt??

Ill link the video when its donw uploading as its like 4-5 minuets of riding in the car with my crappy comintary...LOL

edit: heres the vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAsxq...ature=youtu.be

 

is there some sort of torque managment built into the binary to pull boost after a shift?

*edit* come to think of it, that may be saving your tranny right now. but id still be looking for that

 

Ok blazer Ill look at it. It probly is a nice thing as its taking it easy on my tranny durring the shifts now that you said something. The cars still fast as crap, but I just like to know why the car is doing it.

Ill read up and see what I find.

 

I couldnt fine anything about torque managment in the $59.

Could this just be from me getting into the boost threshold?? As it has always done this since day one of the turbo, I just notice it more now since the boost is higher.

I need turbo headers dave!!

Tommorow Im off to the track so well see if I can squeeze off a 13 sec pass on the 12.5psi command.

 

There is only a 4th gear switch in the trans and a P/N switch on the shifter. So the ECM knows whether the shift selector is in park or neutral versus in-gear.

And with the 4th gear switch only knows if it is in 1, 2, or 3 versus 4th.

There is torque limiting code in $58. Although it appears to be more for foot braking and controlling boost. I don't know if any of that was changed with $59.

With enough knock retard the boost is lowered. The WG duty cycle is in the data stream, that would show what the ECM is doing for boost.

RBob.

 

how soon do u want a set of real turbo headers?, i could prolly start on a set on may 1st

 

my cars on the stands getting ready for the v8 to v6 swap



lmao just kidding got a really bad vibration at around 60mph i need to figure out, but if this thing does keep ending up on jackstands more then i drive it the v8 will come out for a v6 lmao


fast keep ur car away from jackstands once they get on them its a never ending thing lol

 

That suxs man, I hope you find the vibration.

I know all about the jackstands... the fuel pump problems one week, then addign a tq converter, then replacing that converter....LOL. I think it hasnt seen jack stands in about a week. Im on a roll so tommorow at the track I better do good!

Im aiming at those 13'sec passes tommorow, the consistancy thing can come on later down the road.

Let me know when your going to get into the turbo header thing. Id build my own but quite honestly I know it would take me forever to get it right. That is just past my skills on fabrication.

 

14.03@98.04Mph was the best for today. The track was so cold, as it was barly 40 degrees out wiith a 10mph head wind. So it was almost impossible to launch hard without loosing traction, unless I let more air out of the tires and then I wobble at the high end of the track(thats too scary to do). So im happy for the day.

Heres a video of a pass:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwJOR...ature=youtu.be

Here is the best run 14.03:


Heres the best reaction time, and the slowest run when I was on it the whole way of the track..can you tell I spun on this pass?

 

man that thing has enough mph to go 13.3 ish, 12's are in ur future once u get that thing dialed in and are able to launch it properly

 

The track was just too cold to launch. I really tried but the only time I could launch there was 11psi of air in the tires and that thing wobbled like crazy down the track when over 70mph, it was a little scary so I would let off, I made that fastest pass with just holding the RPM's @ 2k...no boost. So I basically found a happy medium with the tire pressure (13.5psi) and ran 14.03- up to 14.22 times at the worst, the launch was not what I wanted but at least im getting a rythem on the slicks, as Its been years since I ever took a car down the track with slicks.

 

the wobble is normal, but i dont belive the dot drag radials should wobble as much as a full blown slick. usually ill run about 12 psi in my tires so u should be pretty close on air pressure at 13.5

id ivest in some ce or summit brand 3 way adjustable drag shocks next summit brand is like 25 bucks each shock and ce's are about 34bucks each iirc

 

I completly forgot about wobble, its weird as im use to street tires. Im more comfotable now, but I know the track was not hot enough at ALL. So I should be able to run 13-14psi and still hook if the track is warmer. It was less then 40 degrees all day and I measured the track temp at 55 degrees..lol

 

my first set of slicks i mounted with tubes, u know what was worse then the wobble??
the bounce i hated the bounciness more then anything

now i wont mount any slicks with tubes

 

Yea Im not running tubes either.

Heres the log from the 14.03 sec pass. Boost held good throughout the run. As you can see I jacked the boost a little, figured that would off set the larger tires. I take it that the larger tires make the spedometer off, as in lower? I finished alot higher then 95-96mph.

I think that is about as far as I can take those injectors. I need a adj.fuel press reg. or larger ones if I plan to run more boost thats forsure!

 

Try getting that wobble at 120+ MPH...

A friend of mine that has a car that runs 8s says that he had the worst shake when using the Drag Radials at high MPH, he said he just had to drive through it.

 

Yea 100Mph for me is floating enough but I sorta got use to it after about 3 runs.

I couldn't imagin 120Mph+ and having the rear end wana float(wobble)

 

Ok I really want posi in the rear... would this work for my application??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auburn-Posi-...69385d&vxp=mtr

Im on a budget but this is in my range forsure! So ill keep looking arround for something that I can afford. Those new ones are 400-500 bucks plus

And I know a good amount of racers, so would I need help to install it or is it something I could do on my own.

Thanks for any help!!

 

auburn = fail
used auburn = double fail


how many amps is ur welder ? u could do what i did and weld the rear, or buy a mini spool

 

LOL im not welding the gears.. I use to do that on demo cars

I though mini or full spools will tear up the axles on the highway?

 

mini spool or welding the axles may cause u to bend an axle over time, i had a welded rear for 3 years before i bent an axle and mine was a daily driver

 

u will need a 28 spline mini spool, just looked on ebay and for some reason they are 30-40 bucks more then a 26 spline unit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-5-GM-7-625...item3374ee346f


summit racing may actually have them cheaper

 

Few questions
1. how hard is it to install
2. will the tires sqeel arround turns and such??
3. Is it noticibly different driving arround town? In a bad way?

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MGR-MS75-28/
id get the summit unit its brand name unit and the ebay unit apears to be a knockoff so im sure its made oout of crap metal

 

#1 remove the rear cover, remove tires and brakes ,,remove crosspin in the rear, pull out c-clips and slide axles out of about 6 inches, pull out spinder gears , replace spider gears with mini spool side gears, line up slots in side geras and inset the inserts then bolt crossbar back in .
slide acles back in and reinstall c-clips ,brakes ,wheels, install rear cover and fill with fluid and ur done

#2 low speed driving like parking lots and making right or left turns froma stop sign will make the tires chrip a lil and or the back of the car to hop slightly , at higher speeds u wont even notice its there unless its raining out or snowing

#3 u get used to it, it does cut down ur turning radius a bit when ur at low speeds and it makes it easy to get the car sideways when its wet out or snowing



mini spoo is the same thing as wleding the spider gears in an open diff

 

get one of these! http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-10-Bo...27ba74&vxp=mtr
that's what i'm running. I like it.

 

he will break it eventually,i have about 50 of those back home in nj from pullouts we did in the 4thgens, most of them are locked up or broken in some way or another.
thats why i never installed on in my car turbo v6 makes way to much tq

 

I think im going to have to entertain the idea for a bit. This is still a street car to me and I really think a LSD would be more usable, even though I cant even get close to affording one at the time.

 

get a mini spool for now, u can resell it down the road for about the same thing u bought it for. also u can swap the minispool in and out in about 30 minutes once u get the hang of it.

so u could install it the day before the track or even at the track , and then put the stock spider gears back in once u are done racing.

lsd/posi upgrades for the 7.5 rear are a waste of money, the only good posi unit is the eaton unit and that is 400$ i would not spend 400 bucks on a 7.5 inch rear

aubruns are much cheaper but they are junk stock l98 cars burn them up in no time and are not rebuildable the eaton is atleast rebuildable but it still comes down to being a 7.5 inch rear that u may or may not break


the only thing swaping back and forth from the mini spool to the stock spider gears will cost u is tubes of black rtv for taking the cover on and off


best advice here is to do it as cheap as possible , thats why i welded my gears if i broke the rear i could get new gears for 125$'s or of it trashed the rear completly i could get a whole new rear from the bone yard for 100-150 bucks

 

Man, I wish I had more $$$

Hey dave I was also doing some research on AFPR so that I can retain my injectors and add some boost. Any thoughts on which ones are good?? There is so many out there, I really wish I could just mod my stock one.

You think that my thread was ok?? I was thinking mabey that it could be a sticky or something in the future. IDK if the information I said even made sence but it was worth a try.