Im basically doing the same sort of set up as dave did in his camaro/turbo build. But everything on my car is ooppisite. I need to remove my purge can though on the pass;side. What is all involed in moving or completly removing it so i have room for the air cleaner from the turbo and the charge pipe to the innercooler.

Today i did take off the Y pipe, cut the excess pipe off from where they meet(I need to weld it closed still), i also cut a notch into the y pipe at the middle of the run(almost dead center in the middle of the pipe in hopes that it will flow ok) also this spot was best so it could fit under the K member will a little clearence. I then used the remaining pipe that was running to the cat converter, and then notched it so that it will run as close to the k member as i can, then it ends between the engine and radiator. I used this approach because i dont have a lift to make the welds, so I will be welding the y pipe to my homemade charge pipe, then planning to clamp the rest of the exhaust pipe that runs to the turbo.(which will be mounted on the pass side.) Havent attempted the down pipe yet as i need to actually buy some pipe for that whole section. Should i just run the down pipe back into the cat converter?? Looks like that might be the best route, also this is a budget..yes a major budget build so im trying to skate buy with spending little on the pipeing... I know this isnt the best set up but ive never turboed anything before..

 

Heres a few pics of the exhust so far, no welding till tommorow or monday.
I though of making up a curved cap (to weld on) for the y-pipe so it doesnt just run into a wall when the passenger side exhaust comes down.....
Dont mind all the rad. fluid...I sorta spilled it all over the floor and some of the engine..








As you can sorta see im going to need to weld up a 90* bend on the pipe going up to the turbo, then I plan to clamp that last 18'' of pipe on as i cant jack my car up that far to fit it back in as one solid piece.

 

Heres what im looking at. I need to get rid or move that purge can so i can run the charge pipe to the I/C. By putting a hole under where it is. Sorry is so dam messy with coolent all over....

 

Well im on my way now, bought this 3 bar map sensor and a cheep 30$ blow off valve.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-BLUE-RS-...item256a8310e7

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-STYLE-SUP...item3a6d4fcc51

hope thats what i was suppose to buy..

 

just remove the can and find the line that runs back to the tank, i cut mine short and bent it so it was vetrical and put a small breather filter on the end of the line.

i see ur going the jy style turbo route,while it is the cheapest way to go turbo the results are for a better work lacking, it wont be long before u build urself a proper set of turbo headers lol

 

can u cancle the order on that bov??? i recomend the rfl type bov like i used on my tt iroc and also on pilsburys car,those greddy rs style ones have a tendency to leak

also that map sensor is not a real ac delco or gm type part, its made by somone else so hopefully it reads the same as a genuine one.the tip off is in the add were it says gm style map sensor

 

Im sure ill be making some headers too once i see what a turbo can do. Hopefully this experiece will get my welding skills back up to par..

Thanks for the tip on the purge can!!

 

Crap i went back into paypal and ebay and its already complete.... How bad do those BOV's leak? Under alot of boost or a little also??

 

it should be fine under low boost 7-10 psi onc eu start going higher then that it may or may not leak so i wouldnt worry about it for now. u can always upgrade it later down the road

 

yea i didnt know. I was looking for one like you had on the turbo thread, but there are so many on ebay.. its crazy. I still need some oil line so that the next purchase and hopefully else then a little piping here and there. I should be done spending $$ for a little bit.

Do you think that that exhust set up will support like 230-250Hp?? LOL i know i should have done the log, or headers, but i wanted to learn slowly how to fab this up on my own...

 

u can always contact the seleer and se eif uhe will send u this one instead if u pay the difference

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-PSI-ADJUS...item256a833667

th4ese are excellent bov's though they are very loud lol just ask pilsbury.
rfl stands for really f'ing loud

 

i have to run out to the store for a lil bit when i get back ill get u links for the oil line stuff u need

were is the turbo going to be mounted infront of the motor, or off to the side?

 

off to the side.. on the passenger side of the rad. fan.

Thanks man!

 

it will support a bunch of power, the problem with it is slow spooling so u end up making less power threw the rpm range, but it will be enough to keep u happy for a while

ill upload a video of that style setup on my 2.8 so u can see how slow it spools up

 

Ok thanks! Well im sure it keep me happy too for a little bit till i get addicted to the boost! Then ill be bugging you some more about how to make it faster!

 

u need 2 of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4AN-Straight...item19cbf3cbd0

4-6 ft of this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Super-Stoc...item5d25a80de1

its cheap id get 6ft and trim to size once u get the turbo in

2 of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Male-Flare...item35ae7d34f6

u will also need to pick up a couple 1/8th pipe 90* or 45* elbows and nipples from the local parts store and also a single 1/8th pipe tee

that will cover ur oil feed

now onto the oil drain

2x of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AN10-PUSH-LO...item46001450f9

2x of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-1-2-NPT...item19bd3a0999

couple ft of this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Push-Lok-...item4cebed7720

and one of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-Turbo-...item35b63040cc

also for the drain u will need some misc fittings from any hardware store

1/2 pipe nipples and bungs along with maybe a 90* and or a 45*

also the push loc hose stuff is designed not to need clamps but for the few extra bucks it costs to put some hose clamps on the stuff deff do it for the peice of mind knowing they wont blow off.

when u clamp them just gently tighten down the clamp or u will cut the hose on the barbs on the fittings

 

Thats freaking awsome man! Thanks a ton for looking those links up!

 

no problem man,btw heres that video of the first turbo system on my 2.8 watch how slow it spools up

its spools up right before i jump out of the throttle down track when it started detonating

http://www.streetfire.net/video/the-...ro_2360344.htm

 

compared to a real header setup

http://www.streetfire.net/video/test...ing_444783.htm

 

yea it did take a second, thats with the jy exhaust set up? You ever actually get a clean pass at the track? At least it was a auto so it didnt blow off between shifts.

I saw the other vid, when you were showing the A/f meter, wow it wanted to stay lean a hel*.....

 

yeah the first video was the jy style setup that setup broke into the 12's slightly but it took more boost then i care to mention. i had to run excessive boost presures to make up for lack of low end power. the car was a monster from halftrack out

the new setup has gone into the 12's at only 9 psi

the afr gauge was like that cause the sensor was still cold it took a min for it to warm up and read right

 

Ahh that makes sence, i woundered why it was so lean.

Thats fast for a little (9psi) boost.



Whats the jy style boost psi you ran, 15-20?? Amazing that these motors can make that much off a turbo. I dont plan on running more then 10psi for a long time till i know what the Hel* im doing with the tuning, but im sure it gets addictive and ya wana keep turning it up more and more.

 

just over dbl to get the same results as the new setup @ 9psi. 18-20 psi was normal on the first setup.

like i tell everyone else its not the amount of boost u run that breaks the motor its detonation

 

Yea thats alot of boost.
To keep detination down, keep afr about 12-12.5 and take alot of spark out/ keep intake temps low also right? Should i be getting colder plugs??

Thats the big reason for inner coolers right? To keep air denser and to reduce detonation?

 

`
ac delco r42ts plugs gapped to .025 stock is an ac delco r43/44tsk
yeah the intercooler helps out big time

u will end up with about 16-18* timming under full boost once u get the afr's right

 

ok, yea thats alot less timing then im running now that for sure. In that last post you mean r42ts gapped to stock and r43/44tsk gapped to .025?

 

sorry r43tsk or r44tsk is the stock plug depending on the year
get a set of r42ts's from the parts store and gap them to .025

 

ok thanks again

 

I forgot how crappy a stick welder, welds! But i did manage to get the y pipe finished up. Here the y pipe after i welded it at a friends since my welder is so old it barley works... I also got some free pipe to experiment with and figure out the down pipe. 2 1/2'' big enough? Or not...


Here it is with a little t25 i have laying in the shop, its almost the same size(at least the exhaust intake/outake Flange) as the other one so ive been useing it as a templet for the piping.

 

the t25 ex flange is not the same size as a t3
2.5 inch downppipe will work but if u can get a 2.5inch to 3 inch reducer and run a 3 inch downpipe it will help with spool time

 

The flange that is on the pipe that i got i ment(I havent welded on the real flange for the turbo yet), its a down pipe off headers and the bolts line up so that i can see the position of the turbo, how close it is to the motor/rad fan. I got a few down pipes of a friend hoping that i could make them work, they seem be ok, i just need a 90* for the down pipe.

So run the 3'' to where im connecting it to the original exhaust??, the cat converter area.

 

if ur going to run it threw the stock ex system holow out the cat or the turbo will spool really slow
what size is the rest of the ex system on the car? if its all 2.5 inch then put in a 2.5 inch downpipe

id just install a cutout under the passenger seat

 

Yea its all 2 1/2 inch pipe under the car, I dont have to worrie about emmisions arround here at all. you know a place for a cheep cut out for at the race track?? Just once that you unbolt the cover?

 

then id just remove the cat all together and keep it on the side incasse u need it for any reason down the road.

summit and ebay both sell cheap cutouts were u just unbolt the blocking plate.
word of advice throw away the wing nuts they come with and replace with standard nuts and lock washers or u will loose the cutout blockoff plate while driving

 

Ok thats sounds like a good idea to me.. thanks!! Yea that would sux to have the cut out plate come off going 65 down the highway...

 

I changed the exhaust pipe going to the turbo area a little, seems to be better. I dont know how someone can manage to fit one on a V8! Im thankful for the 18 inches of room between the rad, and pulleys..

Dont mind all the ex. clamps. I need to weld the stuff up but wanted to make sure all the pipe was the right length and that it would be where i want the pipe to be.

I was thinking that when i look to mock up the down pipe that i will run it down to another 90* bend then literly straight back to intercept the exhaust. It would be when the exhaust straightens out after the cat converter, twards the back of the car.

I already lost about 2 or 3 inches of ground clearence running the piping under the k memeber... one other thing is that if i route the down pipe like that it will be close to the tranny oil pan. Is that ok that i run it so close?? This just looks like the best direct route back there.

 

Coming out very good so far. Depending on what size turbo you run, let me know if you need a set of six 30-lb Grand National (LC2) injectors...

 

Pm me because im definitly am going to need some larger injectors, Id rather tune it down on the eprom then have to boost the fuel # to compinsate for the Hp fuel demand(only injectors i have are the stockers and some 19#)

 

get the pipe up as close to the kmember a spossible. i think on mine i had a 1/4 inch clearance from the pipe to the k member

 

yea the pipe i have on already is about 1/2 inch away. so thats about 3 inches with the pipe that its below the k member

Is my idea of the down pipe about the same as what you did on your first build? Runing the 90* down off the turbo,then a straight pipr, then another 90*, and a straight shot back to intersect the piping behind where the cat conv. was, where the stock piping straightens out.

 

u could prolly do that.

i went 90* down off the turbo then 90* under the k member then i ran ot were the stock ypipe would normally have gone out to the cat.

whatever u can get to fit though will work and the pipes wont get hot enough to do any damage to the trans pan

 

ok, i just was looking at it and seemed like that i could literly run a completly straght pipe all the way back and just add a ex, hanger on the way back.

thanks man!

 

if u can run it that way deff do it, the straighter the pipes are the better

 

ok well i cant get any time to work on it till thrusday, but i plan to get all the down pipe done, then i can get all the flanges and pipes welded up, then. Thanks for the tips as always, im excited to have a turboed camaro!

 

just dont try driving it around till u get it tuned good. if u had a 2.8 ecm u could get away with 7-9 psi on the bone stock ecm. but u cant even get away with 3 psi on a bone stock 3.1 ecm

 

ok i will get it tuned right first( i dont wana burn it up!!), i know speed density is picky with boost, sometimes i wish it was MAF but i like the 7730 ecu better then the 165

 

They are yours if you want them...

Just run the $58 mask w/your '7730, then tune your fueling...

 

He's going to use $59, especially since he already bought a 3 BAR MAP sensor.

 

I just noticed that he got his hands on a 3-BAR. Fasteddi, your planning on 15+ psi...?

 

In due time!!!