The LC1 is a decent WBO2, I use one in my car in a permanent install, for now.

Check 14point7.com for the SLC series. Many more features for less money, or about the same as that LC1 that you linked to.

 

check the adaptor they sent you with a magnet to see if its alum or steel.

 

if u buy that one intercooler kit i linked u to it comes with the bov and adapter pipe so u dont have to weld on a flange

 

The SLC-DIY V2 is actually a touch more than the LC1 auction you linked to, but has built in display, 7 (IIRC) external inputs, including RPM, MAP, EGT, and anything else with a 0-5V range. The best part is that it has native USB connectivity, eliminating the USB to serial adapter you would need with the LC1, so when you factor that in, they probably cost about the same, or the SLC-DIY2 will be slightly cheaper.

I use an SLC-DIY V1 for tuning other people's cars, I would use one in my car, but I haven't got around to ordering another one and installing it in my car yet.

http://14point7.com/SLC-DIY-2.php

 

After i looked at my funds i thing the LC1 is the route im going to take. Thanks for the info. I did check out the SLC and it is a slick iitem though.

 

I need a usb to searial adapter for this WB afr kit?? I have a aldl cable for datalogging, is that what your talking about? sorry im lost

 

In order to set up tye LC1, you need to coonect to it through it's serial interface, to do that with most laptops you will need a USB to serial adapter. The cheap adapters are flakey, or don't work at all.

You will connect the WB output to a pin of the ECM to datalog it with the rest of the ALDL datastream.

 

Can I just use the guage for the readings?? And not link it to the datalog on the lap top?? Or is that a no no, and harder to tune. Basically the analog route.....


This is the cable your talking about?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Innovate-381...item2a063f1f38

 

if ur computer dosent have a serial conector u need one of these

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/u...tune-p-67.html

this is to hook the wideband to the laptop for dataloging

but if u have the wideband hooked to the ecm u will be able to datalog it threw the adal cable anyways and u wont have to worry about it

 

I know the code that i have $59 has a input for the wideband..so im guessing i wont need one of those cables?? Im hoping sixshooter can help me since he uses the $59 and knows the code.

 

Well i got the down pipe finished off except for the bung for the WB o2 sensor. I really got lucky because i only have about 1/4-1/2inch of clearence from the stearing on one side(i think its called the pitman arm?) I lowered the car down to the ground and was looking at the clearence with the exhaust all on the car.

When it was on the ground i turned the stearing wheel both ways, one way is fine but the other is literly 1/4-1/2'' from that arm. I didnt even think of that when i was piecing the pipe together, but it will be ok, I pushed the front end down many times while the stearing was maxed to the right side, me and another guy(400lbs of weight!!). So it was bounching alot, But i wanted to make sure that area was ok.

Then i also bounced the car alot to make sure that the exhaust wasnt going to hit. I measured 4 inches from the lowest point of the exhaust to the ground when it was on level ground. Wow is it close and I will have to take it easy into slanted drives, but with me and another bounching the car like crazy the exhaust never hit, so I guess it will be ok.....

I also welded up the wastegate dump, its basically aimed at the ground about 12 from the ground, If it is too loud and sounds like crap I will mod it then.

 

pictures or gtfo lmao

 

....J/kidding man, ill get some tommorow, of my piping. Its getting there. I think im finalyl laying down nice f-in beads on the exhaust.. Took me long enough.

 

Even running the LC-1 into the ECM (The same exact set-up I have BTW), you still need to connect to the LC-1 through the serial connection to program it for a proper volt range. Also since you also want to use an external gauge, that means that you have to program the second output to be different than it is out of the box, but I'm not sure you can run two WBO2 output ranges from the LC-1, and yes they need to be isolated from another.
This is just another reason I suggest the SLC_DIY (or even the SLC_Pure Plus, if you want the onboard datalogging feature), since it has a display built in AND has a 0-5V linear output to connect to the ECM.

 

Do i need to have the sensor wired into the datalogging?? Is it really hard to tune without the sensor sending the info through the ecu then into the laptop? Ive never used WB to tune before, I only did a lot of idle, and part throttle tuning(blm/int)

Honestly Ill look more into that SLC and hope that i can come up with the $$ to get it. Because i wana make sure i get what i can use, for my application and it sounds like that SLC is the way to go. Unless you wana sell that LC1 to me.... and get the SLC for yourself(sixshooter)

Also so if i got these 2 things then i could datalog the AFR WB o2 on my laptop using $59 correct??? Then just get a guage later on/.....
The SCL-diy2 and the bosch sensor from the 14.7 wedsite thats like 190$

ssen SLC DIY 2 ($140)

• Bosch Lambda sensor not included
  

Bosch 17014 Lambda Sensor ($50


SLC DIY 2 ($140)

• Bosch Lambda sensor not included
  

Bosch 17014 Lambda Sensor ($50

 

Yeah, I'll be selling my LC1 once I get the SLC for my car, just haven't got around to doing that yet... I may sell it before I get the SLC, and just use the one I have now until I get the new one... Even if I sold it to you, you would still need the USB to serial adapter, or maybe not, since it would still be set-up with proper settings... That costs extra... :P lol

Yes, those two items (the SLC_DIY and Sensor) will allow you to datalog, view AFR on your dash and add more sensors, though the extra sensors (connected to the SLC) will not be able to be added to the ALDL datastream.

It is much easier to see what is going on, when the AFR reading is right there beside all of the other data, and especially when viewing the datalog later, while not connected to the car.

 

Ok six. thanks for the info. If you are interested in selling that o2 stuff let me know as I cant buy one for about 2 weeks...taxes!

 

Here is a pic or 2... first, where im pointing in the top pic, is that a ok place to welding the bung/fitting, for the oil return line. Seems to be the best area to weld it in and still be able to reach the top of the bung.

Also on the lower pic that is the exhaust completly welded up. There is 2 extra ex. hangers on the stright section of pipe for renforcement. Thank god this isnt my daily driver because i definitly knocked off 2 1/2 of clearence, but when on the ground i can sit in it and get a 200lbs+ guy to (bounce) the front end and still has a 1inch of clearence under those conditions, a little under 4inches in tota(more like 3 1/2'')l. I put a clamp on the one weld as it was almost impossible to weld the top(near block) of the pipe, so i didnt trust my welding and the clamp will just make sure its sealed as i cranked that clamp to the max without crimping the pipe too much....

I hope this car doent sound like do do with out the cat connverter..

 

thats the spot

if i were u id just buy an aem eugo wideband , comes with the gauge the sensor wiring harnes and it has a 0-5v output and simulated narowband output, no need to hook it upto a laptop for anything just connect a few wires and the install is done.

its the same one i use on my car u can get one for 165$ shipped prolly wont find anything else that cheap

 

thats resonable for sure.. one ebay, or there website?

 

ebay or vs racing has them as well

 

Ok thanks man... know anyone that wants a nice lil T25 turbo?? LOL 2 of them would be nice to have on a lil v6.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AEM-GAUGE-TY...item4ab345274d

169$ shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Wide...item25683b1c87 164.98 shipped

 

thank you!!

 

np man btw for now u can run very low boost without the intercooler to get a feel for the tunning, whats the spring in ur wastegate set for ?

 

I got this one... 8psi
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370462441591...WNX:IT&vxp=mtr

 

What are the specs on the T25?

 

The coldside a/r .48
hotside a/r .49

 

sixshooter i got a decent pic of it in the classified section...willing to work with the price if your interested

 

hey dave..or whoever..this is the turbo that i should of gotten right?? I hope so.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250648441724...84.m1439.l2649

 

Looks like a Mitsubishi turbo, I'll pass. lol

 

Yup a DAM..I mean DSM turbo...

I never bought a boost controler...is that nessasary for now?? The wastegate has 8psi springs in it... i really cant afford even the little $$ for that as I jsut spent 70 bucks on fittings and lines for the oil feed and return...

 

Don't worry about a boost controller, for a few reasons...

1. You can run on the spring at 8 PSIG and have a blast.
B. The ECM (using $59) will control a solenoid that will control boost pressure (best way IMO), when you are at a point where you want/need to turn up the boost
. You can add springs to the wastegate actuator to increase boost pressure (currently how I have mine, due to a too weak wastegate actuator used, and helps reduce the boost bleed off that was happening). I now have a 10 PSIG wastegate actuator, up from the original 2 PSIG wastegate actuator, by adding some springs to hold the flapper shut.
IV. Boost controllers are not worth the money you spend on them.

 

How does the ecm control the wategate?? its a external one.. sorry im lost once again. I did see those values in the $59 code..but thought that was for internal wastegate only

Heres what ive got
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330440198806...84.m1439.l2649

 

The gate itself doesn't matter, they are both controlled by boost pressure. The solenoid pinches off the pressure to the gate, to allow for a higher pressure.

The solenoid connects to a pin of the ECM, and 12V ignition on the other side.

I forgot that you have an external, so disregard item "." in the list above.

 

Its ok man. You def. do know your code59 stuff thats for sure!!

 

that turbo is the good one

its bigger then the one i started with and also bigger then pilsburys

the compressor wheel is 57mm instead of 50mm

in my opionion the best turbo is a 60mm/60-1 turbo for the 3.1/3.4 motors
so ur pretty close to what i would consider ideal

 

Ok that makes me feel better as I didnt wana have a turbo that was way oversized or undersized.

 

I though I would list what ive spent so far and what the total cost of all this would be if anyone thought of doing such a task. Project89 did a few awsome write ups that are stickys..But though Id just add what all I got.

Dave I did find a volvo innercooler for 25 bucks shipped(had to buy it as my budget is killing me!!!!) Ill get a better one hopefully in the summer.

Turbo. $118 shipped t3/t4 hybrid
Blow off valve. $29 shipped JDM cnc
Wastgate. $37 shipped 38mm external w/8psi spring
3 Bar Maps sensor. $40 shipped
2 silicon reducers. $17 shipped 4/ply
All materials for oil lines. $85 shipped
2 Turbo exhaust flanges. $32 shipped
Innercooler. $25 shipped Volvo 740
2 1/2 '' piping for charge pipe and exhaust. $40
Misc. Items such as 90* bends, RTV, t-fittings, argon/co2. welder wire, colder plugs $120

This list above is roughly $545, these are the items i have already.

I still need to buy a WB o2 sensor kit-est $160
30lbs Injectors-pending to buy from TGO member??
Boost gauge. $25
Boost controler. $15

These items above that I do not have are roughly $230

Heres what All i have and what needs to be purchased. Actually is quite alot but cheeper then I though...I was thinking closer to $1,000 but i did skimp on a larger innercooler.

So for about $675 dollars I have the needed items, and have been doing quite well on spending a little here and there so I dont go completly broke. Ebay is my best friend as, I know there is better stuff out there, but those items are just what I need at a price that I can afford.

I already had the tuning equiptment, chips, burner, and such... thankfully!

 

man i told u not to buy a volvo 740 intercooler , a 45$ ebay 24x7x2.5 would have worked much better, the 740 intercooler might be large but its only 1inch thick and has plastoic endtanks. it also has no way to be mounted unless u have somone weld aluminum chanel to the top and bottom of it like i did with mine

 

Yea i know but this one was basically given to me for nothing, and I needed something to get me buy till summer. Bro, im seriously strapped for cash bad, and wanted to at least get the car tuned so I could drive it by spring/summer.

I actually can have my classmate(in college) weld up alluminum. I didnt know we even had one in our lab till the other day..

LOOK at post further down, i got $$ back on volvo one and got a e-bay one cheep... damm sometimes i get impatent..

 

Project you talking about this one???

I can always give the innercooler back and pick this one up... didnt relize they were that cheep new.... opps Ima f-in idiot!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-FR...item33559b61e2

or this one??? Let me know ill order it asap.. im tired of messing arround and just want everything i need here at my house.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-FR...item33559b61e2

 

I have a Mitsubishi Starion Intercooler, that I could sell.

 

Wiill that work ok??

How much

 

Nevermind bro, i just pushed the trigger on this one... its 58 bucks but since i bought the flanges, turbo, and wastegate off this guy he told me i coudl have it for 43 dollars, so i just got it. Better then the volvo i guess(I should of listened to dave).
And it has bolt hole so I can mount it well(with creation!!) I cant complain with a discount!! LOL i also ordered 2 more 4ply couplers off the same guy for $8.88
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250497245622...84.m1497.l2649

Im ready to buy the SLC diy-2 kit and the sensor. Those 2 items are about 190 bucks but dont wana push the button till im sure that, those items will work for me, for datalogging and such! I need to have the sensor be able to datalogg on the laptop. I really dont care about a fixed guage till i can tune the car, and afford it.

After this all i need is injectors.... where leathal at???? LOL

Random pics... My garage is slightly trashed, but the couplers i got today fit perfect. I cant do much else till i get some more parts that i already ordered. Such as the innercooler, more couplers, for the innercooler, and the rest of the oil stuff. I spent way too much$$$ this weekend! But did get the 3 bar map installed, also the NB o2 sensor.

What size bung should i get for this oil return line. Id like to weld it in but the fittings havent arrived yet/

 

that intercooler is fine much better then the 740

 

A spring like this would work with my 38mm universl wastegate right??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Alumin...item19c28cf3b5

I might get this but i really need to get the WB sensor stuff and injectors asap. I really want all the parts here so i can just go at it on my days off and get this together. Im really hoping all the stuf I ordered gets here by friday!

Id much rather have a 4psi spring in there since id like to be as safe as possible when tuning. Im sure the wasegate will be open alot though..and loud since I piped the gate into the atmosphere!

 

Just made this purchase at 14point7

SLC-diy 2 kit, and sensor.

That looked like the best deal. For 190 bucks(210 shipped) i can have the digital readout in front of me, have it datalogg(historytables on the $59 mask).

It also can simulated a NB output, not sure if it can do that the same times as the WB output, but there are alot of feature I like with this product.

I am now officially broke... and injectors are on there way.. i hope 30lbs ones will support 250 or so Hp for now.

 

Does anyone know off the top of there head, what it would cost to mandral bend two five foot section of pipe at a exhaust shop???
Before i get ripped off and pay too much..... I wanted to bend a few straight pieces i have for all the bends i need. Then just cut the sizes out i need.

like make up some 90's ... 20 bucks for a prebent 90* mandral is too much, exspecially when i need 6 of them.

 

Injector Rating x # of injectors x Duty Cycle / BSFC = Maximum Horsepower...

30 x 6 x .9 / .6 = 270