that log file is messed up,

its says u did 143 mph @ 33% tps with 11 psi of boost lmao

 

Ok thanks of the comp test info, I just was curious if my cylinders are close to the same.

Ill add a little more timing and mabey ill get the knock to go away. Weird that I had 4*+ of knock then added 3* of timing and now ive got 1-1.5* for a split moment.

I actually ran the vac from the wasegate to the back of the manifold. Seemed ok fast...compared to the 10psi the other day. The log showed the boost pretty steady when i had it at 100 throttle.

This isnt thirdgen and not even chevy but this is what ive been working on in my free time for the last 3 days....dropping this engine back in my friends car. Amazing heads and comp ratio hes got now.... Id love to woop on something like that..LOL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YRD9...eature=related

 

LOL no it doesnt! I dont see anything like that in there.

 

Will 26x10.5" slicks fit in my wheel wells at the track?? There on 15 inch rims. If so I got a decent set lined up cheep...

 

Did you try desensitizing the knock sensor yet, it sounds like false knock...

 

i had 28x10.5 on my car on 9 or 10inch wide rim dont remember with a 5.5 bs and i needed a 1/4 inch spacer to clear the inner bumpstopand te foward portion of the inner fender

a 10.5 tire is pretty heavy and way more tire then u need, id run a street tire of the 10.5 for now and save the money for a 26x9 which would go right on a stock rs rim


the 3-4 * of timing u added prolyl bumped the motor up about 20-35hp

throw another 2* at the motor and the knock will prolly go away

i think i see the proplem with the log file ill download it and try opening it again

 

heres the 26x9x15 tires
100_1379.jpg?t=1288210955


ad these are the 28x10.5W's

 

I have no idea what that is. Sorry im clueless on somethings. What is it and how do ya do that??

 

Well the only reason I wanted to know about the 10.5 wide slicks is because i can pick up a good set for 50$ without the rims.....

 

The attack and decay rates in the prom, cap the maximums at various rpms if it is false knock. By the way, which knock sensor are you running? The stock one...?

 

for 50 bucks thats a good deal if there still good, the car will go slower with a 10.5 tire vs a 9 inch tire just because of the tire wieght.
for a 10.5 tire u will need to buy some wide rims so factor that into the cost

a 225 drag radial is about 170 bucks a tire , a drag slick is about the same

so figure 350 bucks for brand new tires that will fit the rims u have

or 50+ whatever the rim cost is for those 10.5 tires

so work out what it will cost ya, but for now u will be fine on the street tires at the track, hell my car goes 1.8 60 ft on street tires and 1.7 60 on the slicks

 

if i were u i would buy a set of these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BFG-49256/
and get some steel wheels from pepboys or the junkyard

u could just mount them on the rims u have now but dragradials dont last that long on the street so the money invested in a set of junkyard rims to mount them on so u can swap them on and off would be very well worth it

 

Im running the stock sensor. I know it works as ive tested it. I see max degree retard, burst knock rate, fast recovery rate and about another 6 things in the bin for the knock sensor date.
Max retard is 18.11*...wow thats alot

Ill look into the bin some more

 

Those slicks are ET slicks, if that makes a dif, on the width, and yea they are practially new, they come off of my buddys stang. He was going 12.5's on then and is getting new, straight slick. I cant afford new ones at all, but for 50 bucks and some rims cheep at a swap meet or j/y, is within my budget. I definitly plan to only run them at the strip....

 

Yeah, it's a precautionary,...

It's not a matter of it working or not, it's a matter of it perhaps being a little too sensitive. Your rotating assembly wasn't designed for boost, so it might even be something mechanical under boost signaling false knock, if that is the case. I can tell you that we were chasing a false knock reading in my good friend Tony's '95 GSX Eclipse, pulling timing and holding the car back, and it turned out to be the boost controller of all things being the culprit, believe it or not...

 

Really..... well what a good knock sensor cost and how bad is it to take the old one off. Stuff like that I have to make sure is right. Im picky about being able to monitor stuff. What do you think I should do man?? Keep worring about knock, get a different one??? What makes the different one better. It still hears the same Hz but just is less sensitive???

 

u can adjust the attack rate and settings to tone the sensor down, something minor like a loose exaghst clamp can actually trigger a knock reading.

theres no other knock sensor for u to get , u have to use the one made for the motor as they are tunned to a specific frequency for each motor.

i.e the v6 knock sensor is tuned for a set frequency were as the v8 one will be different freq


i would just make the knock retard a lil less agressive for now or just ignore it all together until u start getting into the 17/18* timing range under boost then it will be come a lil more critical to keep an eye on, but ur motor isnt going to have sprak knock at suhk low timing ur at now

 

Alright. well if its decent out tommorow after work i may get on tuning some more with the 8psi or so that the wastgate is working with. At least its a constant pressure now without that crappy old boostcontroler. IIRC im only up to about 14* total timing at low boost... 12* in the higher boost at this time.

 

make ur timing 19* at lower boost and 17* under higher boost

 

Well i will try to bump up timing a little (about 17 total in lower boost and 15 total timing in higher amounts of boost all under 9psi, and see if I get real knock.. Which I hope i dont, then Ill go from there.)

 

u wont get any knock danger zone isnt till about 21/22*, but it also depends on ur fueling as well

 

Im patiently waiting for a nice day and free time to work on the car some more... saw this on the tube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiZ_96qMu9c I know its a full 3.5L swap but that makes my turbo thirdgen look sloooowwwww.... lmao

 

my camaro just came home from the body shop, but its been snowing for the last week stright here, cant wait for some nice days so i can get back to working on it.

still need to install the 10pt cage,fab up the parachute mount,and last but not least install the 21# wastegate springs and do some more tunning .
i also think im going to get rid of the dual side exit ex system and fab up a single 4 inch system that runs to the rear of the car

 

yeah thats mars061, he posted in here

 

Got to go on a 20min cruse this afternoon after work...I definitly was cheeting myself with the timing. I ran the vac, line back so that it was making about 5.5 psi, and added timing, anywhere from 1-4* in those areas, I was impressed with the power felt. Alot more then the other day when I ran 5.5psi and it was pretty slow considering. It was much more responsive, fast, and smooth with the added timing!! Cars a blast to drive even at the low boost.

I got that thing up to 91 or 92mph like it wasnt even hard..LOL. Wow and with very little boost. Im gonna need to invest in better brakes....... It would take it a mile or two to get to 90 mph before...lmfao.

I attatched the log, there was a slight knock(like 0.250 of a degree retard average) at first but that went away and never came back once intake temps went up a little, I think thats telling me that I can still add a little timing....No more time today to tune, but was a fun drive. Its 50* and sunny here...Wow loving this winter!!

Crusing was smooth even since my TCC isnt armed to lock up till over 90mph...
Oh yea look at my MPG....LOL thatll make you laugh.

 

Read over the log alot here before I go to bed...5am comes early....But 17* of timing is the ave for 5.5psi and afr or 12.1 AFR average. I know thats just a average and not the real picture, but seriously the car felt at fast with that timing and AFR then it did at 8-10 psi the other day. I think I was really cheating myself out of timing, just need to smooth those SA tables and wait for the controler for more boost!!! Craps addictive!!!!!

And now that Im looking at the SA table graph, I could actually feel the divits that are in the graph when I was on boost today. I need to smooth that stuff out!!! resembles the rocky mountans a little.......

 

at only 5.5 psi u could run around 25* and be fine , of course i would still keep an eye on knock

 

Yea i need to keep adding timing, and fuel as I go. Check the latest excell that was a fun cruse at 5.5psi though, and never had a issue with AFR or knock. Fun lil car now....I should have done this to it years ago!

 

ill take a look in a bit im in the middle of stripping down my new heater box so i can paint it and get ready to install it in the iroc so i can have some dam heat in the car

those rw numbers from my dyno were at only 10-12* of timing so u can imagine what it would have dynoed had my ignition advance in my ms unit actually worked

i had miswired my est bypass wire to the relay so the ecm never had control of the timing it was just set to base

 

Yea I need a heater box too!! And the slim heater too, gets cold in the car.
The good ole wastegate will keep me warm!!!

wow 10-12* of total advance...I dont know a ton about the turbo stuff yet, But i know adding those few degrees today woke the car up and its still conservitive(I think)

 

yup that was all and the car wouldnt rev up over 5-500 at all no matter how long we stayed in the throttle witht he cam i have in the car peak power would be made around 6-6500 give or take

 

Yea today when WOT at high RPM's 4800-5200 my car would drag a little, i think it needs more timing again, After smoothing the table im up to about 18.5* at 5psi. My SA table is sorta curved where the highest timing is from 3k-4k rpms. I hope to try out that spark map, and see how much fuel i need to add. Im just taking baby steps adding timing till its right.

Gotta get to bed. 5 am comes early. Have fun with the heater box

 

Couldnt sleep last night and threw this video together, ler me know if you can watch it through the facebook link as youtube was being stupid last night....

Turbo/Cam Update is the video name!
http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/?id=100000332128461

 

It says no videos have been added when you click that link.

 

But can you see the video list??? Its the top on if so. Try this insted if you wana see it, ticks me off that I worked on it for a hour and no one can see it here on TGO. Just open the mediafire (file) and watch it on windows media player or something like that, let me know how dumb it is...LOL http://www.mediafire.com/?1ajxvv7va0wucv0

Rob(streetleathal) I now understand the resolution you were talking about with using a 3 bar map setup. I really notice it when im in the SA and VE tables tweaking and smoothing the divits in there.....

 

Sweet video.... Like the music as well. Your in Ohio it says, you run at Norwalk?

 

All the time!! Great track to be at. You go there?

 

I should fish less in the summer and bring the family out.... Looks like about only an hour away from Toledo. Wish I had the funds and knowledge to turbo my Buick 3.8NA......

 

Definitly Summit Motorsports park is great for family and is THE best track Ive ever been too. Rated "americas racetrack" like 4 or 5 years in a row.


I did add more timing in my bin today, now the cars starting to scare me, its moving alot faster considering the low Psi of boost. Still need to play with the timing and the fuel but heres a excel log if ya wana take a peak. I drove the car for like 20 minuets with out boosting it to make sure it crused well(so the intake temps are high at the beginning from idleing in the garage for 5 minuets)

Am I overdoing the timing??? no knock ever today(else then one spot and i know it was from rattling) And feels alot faster. I scared myself making a pull, went from like 10 Mph to 95Mph in 16seconds as of tunerpro, and that was only 7-8 psi?? WOW what a big toy.

Heres some intresting data: 50-90Mph preformance for a 1991 TPI350 Z-28 is 8.8 seconds. Today I logged 50-90mph in 9 seconds flat!!! The 40-70MPH is 4.6 sec on the Z28 and I made it in 5 seconds, a few times using tunerpro.

Hells ya is all I can say about that!!! I cant wait to dust one when I tune more and get a little more boost out of my baby!
My data is from this site and for my car is one that excel log http://www.automobile-catalog.com/auta_details1.php

 

Have you considered copying the main SA table data from a stock 3.1l BIN (AZTY) into the calibration you are currently using? This will provide a better baseline for the tune. Then obviously taper the SA off as the boost increases.

There are a couple of items in this last data log that are not correct or needs working on. At record number 3199 the "Boost 3 Bar (PSI)" is at .69 psi, with the "MAP 3-Bar" showing 82 KPa. Shouldn't be showing boost until the MAP value is at or near 100 to 104 KPa.

I suspect that a pseudo-baro read is being done and coming up with the wrong result.

The other item is that it is going too rich during the first area of boost. Most likely due to AE (need to add TPS% to the log).

RBob.

 

Ok thanks Rbob, i did notice those weird data glitches here and there. The SA tables are close to the stock ones up to 100kpa, I just need to keep playing with the boosted ones. I completly forgot about adding the TPS% till you said somethin, Yea it is a little rich at first. I havnt even touched the AE yet, Ive only ran open loop while tuning, VE, and SA, monitoring AFR, and knock retard.

Im having issues getting power to my 3 port gm boost sileniod. Its wired into F2 and has a good ground, but im not getting more then .05-.1 Vts dc at the silenoid

Absolutly nothing at the F2 pin on the ecu... no power off that when the ignition is on...its suppose to put out 0-5vts. 1 vts when the car is idleing.. i freaking give up for the night!

 

Heres some pics ... i painted the charge pipe Hi-temp silver. And the ECU mess, and some of the soleniod stuff..dont mind all the long zip tie ends. I called it quits for the night


(((read my reason for editing!)))


Piping look better?? Not so rigged? LOL


Heres my headache.. Wiring


This hose goes up to the output side of the soleniod. The other(lower vac line) on the wastegate is t-ed into the boost reference port that also goes into the input side of the soleniod.


This is the soleniod, blue hose is the side I have t-ed to the refrence WG port and the turbo boost port. The other black hose on the other side(left side) is the hose that runs to the top of the WG(the picture above this one). dont mind the hose im pushing down with my finger...its from the purge canister(i blocked it off)


Im just having problems getting the soleniod wired up right?? And Ideas?

 

This has to do with the calculation. It seems that anything under 2 or 3 PSIG (I don't recall the exact number) on the "boost" gauge, is not accurate, and can show positive intake pressure before actually getting to positive intake pressure. This is why I usually only reference the KPa data.

The F2 output is a ground, not 0-5V, at least in the way it controls the solenoid.

You don't have the solenoid connected properly, on the air side. The solenoid is set up for a single port WG, meaning that the top fitting on your wastegate should be open (preferably with a small filter on it) and the solenoid will connect to the bottom port.

 

Ok sixshooter thanks so much for the help once again!!! I owe ya man!

 

On the boost solenoid, the ECM provides ground. The other pin on the solenoid goes to +12 volts ignition switched. Look at the solenoid carefully, one terminal has a + sign next to it. Odds are there is a diode in parallel with the coil, so the polarity matters.

For AE, IIRC, you are running the GN 29 #/hr injectors? If so then cut the AE nearly in half, as it is mostly PW based. There are several ways to do this, I tend to work with the dMAP & dTPS AE tables. Just reduce all values by 33 to 50 %.

RBob.

 

Well i got one thing to work and another stoped working. Im reading tons of false knock. When i just rev it up to 1800+rpms the knock retard goes instanty to 18* of retard.

First and formost I need to check the F9 pin... the detination/knock sensor pin, to make sure its in ther right. Ive taken that ecm connector off so many times it might be seated wrong. I HOPE THATS THE PROBLEM!!!

I got the solenoid to work properly, and actually took it back off and any checked everything i could looking for a rattle that is causeing the false knock. I know its false and not real knock.

I know this was risky but i drove down the road, and locked the max retard at .035* and gave her hell just for a quick second, AFR's awsome, and its like 30* outside tops!

Soon as I got back I checked plugs and there fine, all 6 of then, shade of tan and smooth. Im not sure but mabey I have a loose lifter?? I can sorta here a slight tick.. that would cause this im sure. Or a noisey injector? Loose anything i guess...

I attatched the log from the one pull with the controler, and no knock retard control(scary but I was betting my engine that, that knock was BS and its something setting it off) Also a pic of the plug, all of then look like that. But i dont plan on doing pulls like that agian till i get the knock sensor fixed, im running 11psi of boost! Thats too much to play arround with!!!!!

 

Thanks Rbob and sixshooter! I got the silenoild to work and hold boost at its command.

Yes im runing the GN injetors. Ill go in and check the AE tables, it does always bog for a second(from being rich) when entering AE under 100%tps. Thanks man!

 

I'm not sure why that would be. How difficult is it to subtract the current MAP from the baro and produce a boost value.

At that, some of the earlier logs has the boost psi starting at 100 KPA MAP.

Another item is the actual 3-bar KPa value in the last log (boost controler.csv), once the throttle was let off the 'MAP 3-Bar kPa ($3e)' went to 2.2 KPa. Not happening in real life.

It is these types of things that makes one wonder about the code.

RBob.

 

Check the Feb 22nd log.zip log file. In it there is a 'MAP 3-Bar' column. This data makes sense. It shows boost once the MAP KPa is above c.a. 99, which is OK. Then on a lift the lowest MAP is 18 - 20 KPa, again in the right area.

RBob.

 

Ok the false knock was my fault! The memcal adapter was loose. Works fine now!

Heres a log of me really getting on it. I need to work on the fueling at higher Psi, since I made it a little to rich, but WOW is all I have to say! Car is freaking fast!!
Off to work so no more playing for the day....

Latest excel file if anyone wants to take a peak and tell me how bad it is...
I need to get into the AE tables as they are making the car bog when floored and it says AE required in the datalog.

140hp stock....LOL I bet 230+hp and 280+Tq now(easy). This V6 feels as fast as a 1991 mustang gt I had back in the day that ran 14.50's in the 1/4 mile!

And I dont know how accurate on time tunerpro is but... On the 100% tps pull it went from 30MPH to 80MPH in 7.75 seconds! Is that fast considering??? 40-70Mph was in 4.5 seconds on average... Im just trying to get a grasp on how much increase in power I really got so far. Ill flip if I cant make a 14 sec pass in a month if I get a good launch....This is all on that log...10-11psi for those #'s and a crap tune as im conserned.