Does this look like its faster?? 11.3psi of boost and 88% TPS signal, AFR is better 11.7 steady through out the pull. Let me know what ya think of the video, and If all this flustration and $$ was worth it..LOL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxAL0VXkG6c

 

car shoudl deff run in the 13's as is nxtime u shoot a video like that go 100% throttle and try to get both the speedo and the tach in the shot

at this point besdies more tuning startputting away money for a converter a converter will knock atleast a half second off ur 1/4 miles times

 

Tach doesnt work worth a crap(its off so much)..LOL. Ill just get a passanger to vid the tunerpro screen. Things fast though.. Remember that video of me going 0-100MPH when it was basically stock and it tool like 28 seconds..

On tunerpro(dont know how accurate it is)... 10-90MPH was in 12.48 seconds from that datalog on the video!

 

bost up he datalog ill get a screen recorder program that will record ur laptop screen so u can keep the video cam on the road or whatever else u want

12.48 for 10-90mph is pretty good

dont forget at the track u will leave the line with boost so u wont have the turbo lag which will speed up the car a good bit

id tell u to try a launch with boost but on the street on street tires u wont do nothiing but a huge burnout

how much timing under boost were u running?

 

here ya go u can use these numbers to see how well u will do

 

Timing under boost(was from 21 down to 18*)
Yea im not even attempting to make boost at a launch, or even footbrake the launch as i know ill just do a big burn out. lmao

Heres the excel log, I got rid of all the other cells except for the actual pull that was on the video. So its easier to read the thing. It was like 10000 rows at one point!

 

12.07 seconds from 12mph to 90 mph
iwould have gone from 10mph but u were barley in the throttle

took 2.048 seconds to go from 3psi@12mph to 32mph@11.37 psi of boost i.e full boost


u still have a 2psi boost spike but that will happen with a boost controller
and u go way rich on the onset of boost i.e the transition from 0 vac to positive presure like rbob said u need to tweak ur ae a bit

next time u do a run do it from a dead stop and go wot as fast as u can this will give me a better idea of what ur car will do the way it sits

afrs are also a lil rich in the low 11's sometimes dipping into the 10's u still have a ton of power to be picked up in the tune alone

 

Looking at those numbers it is pretty fast considering hu??
Yea tommorows suppose to be nice and if I have time, I want to work on the AE table(for the transition from no boost/to boost), the high rpms are still rich although there better then earlier in the day, so ill take a little fuel out and go from there.
Today I just wanted to make sure the boostcontroler worked and the Timing was smoother. Im so happy that this project is coming together!!

 

ur on par for low 13's even a 13.0 pass, on ur pull u rolled into the throttle so the turbo took a lil time to spool up and when u watch the video u can see how much harder it accelerates from 30mp on vs what it does when u only have 2-3 psi at around 20 mph

the turbo will spool up much faster if u were to just punch it and u figire u would have to do just a tad more then 100mph to do a 13flat and u did 12-90 in almost 12 flat right now if u took it to the track as is id say u would run right about 13.3 as is

 

For that boost spike, this is where that other boost control table comes in, the wastegate DC table. This is the fine tuning I was talking about.

 

hey six can the 59 code do boost control based off say speed or gear ?

 

Yes, speed based, which is what fasteddi is using AFAIK.

It's actually selectable between TPS or MPH.

 

nice once he gets a lil firther tuned he can set the thing up to pull out 2-3 psi in high gear. its a lil trick i learned from my gn buddies.

they usually do it off a time based boost controller so it pulls 2-3 psi in high gear going down the track since the more load on the motor the easier it is to get detonation

 

I need to do some research on the duty cycle. The duty cycle is 64.06 up to 69.16 at 50mph and higher on my table, Is that just control how rersponcive the boost is? Im not sure how to fine tweak it yet but ill fingure it out. Ill get it tune in and get on the AE tables as that is flooding the car when floored from a stop.

It would be easy to pull 2- or so PSI at the end of the run at the track, since the table im useing goes on MPH, I could just command 8 or so PSI at 80MPH and above and leave the 11.32PSI up to that point.

13 second passes would be sweet if i can hook up and launch. Feels fast man, like a little rocket

 

Got the chance to change AE, lower WG duty cycle. Heres the log, Looks better but still rich at high RPM. I floored it in this log from like 7mph, what a rush! It wasnt rich as 100%tps when AE was engaged and the boost was much more steady when it spooled up.



Dave you said the 12-90 was like 12.XX on yesterdays log, today I measured 10.91 seconds from 12-90mph. Picked up a little speed. 7-100MPH was in 14.26 seconds(thats from the TPS going to 100% so the turbo took a little under 3 seconds after when I floored it to be at full boost 10+psi)

 

Ok im done for the day

Anyways I made some attempts at WOT and heres the results(the best one I got) I actually didnt spin the tires, and just mashed the throttle, the good ole foot stomp start! I messed with the wategate DC again, but was better of with the last chip I burned

G-tech said this...
1/4 mile time
14.78@99.5MPH,
0-60Mph@5.7seconds
198 peak HP(at the wheels im assuming, with my car weighed in at 3300Lbs)Any idea what the power loss is through the drivetrain???
Highest HP with the heads and cam on G-tech was 112 HP at the same weight before the turbo....


Turner Pro/SLC controler said this....
1/4 mile time 14.98@99MPH
0-60Mph in 5.9 seconds

Im am a little mad though because I think those crappy head gaskets are staring to go!!(I got cheep ones because I never though Id end up putting the turbo on it)
I noticed it when I came back, It runs a little warmer, and looks to be leaking ever so slightly arround the heads. WTF.. Any links/recomindations on some headgaskets that will work well for me??? Thick ones that dont cost a crapload but that Will work??

Im going to attend to that before I drive it anymore. I dont wana hurt the car, and Im happy with the power so far. I definitly dont wana chance my luck at blowing a head gasket at 10psi...

 

With 15 pounds of boost, better converter, and no tire spin, you will see 12's Mark...

 

Thanks Rob! Did you paint the tips of those injectors black?? The paint rubbed right off when i took them out and wiped them...I laughed a little because they looked so good(the tips) that i never relized they were painted. The sure do work great for what im doing. Thanks again for the injectors!!!!

I tore down the top of the motor really fast since Ive done it so much, the pass, valve cover was leaking a little at the rear twards the tranny, thats the oil i was seeing, and i think the reason the car runs hotter sometimes is becasue its filling up my overflow can i made since the stocker overflow wont fit there anymore.

I still am going to go over the whole engine from the heads up and makes sure that everything is sealed up good and that I wont have any issues come track time. I cant stand leaks and the track ppl will yell at me constantly if I have any leaks, exspecially oil or anitfreeze. I useually run straght water in the summer then mix in 50% antifreeze come fall time.

 

The hats? Yeah, they were painted by this TB guy that I know when I got them, not sure why he even did that in the first place because the caps are under the o-ring on the fuel rail side. Paint more than likely came off the moment you keyed on and started the engine...

Make sure you don't have any antifreeze in the oil...

 

Hey rob this is a pretty dumb question but... in these pics isnt there suppose to be a gasket between the lower intake manifold and the block itself?? Look at all the oil arround there, its just like that in the back also. I know its not the dizzy o-ring. But im almost positive its this area in the pics thats causeing my oil leaks. I lost 1/2 quart in a about 1 hour of driving. If ya think that could be the cause..which i think is..Im going to drain the oil and hope its not milky or white, then ill just put this all back together and make SURE the gaskets are all good!

Oh yea im a idiot if theres suppose to be a gasket there...opps

 

There's supposed to be a bead of sealer there, at both ends of the valley.

 

Ok thanks!! I messed up there....I hate when I do that!
but anyways drained the oil and it looks good, plugs are all nice and tan, smooth. It was nice to tear down the topend of the motor and make sure everythings good after the boost ive been running for the last 2 weeks..

Also how is everyone running a overflow tank...I cant use my original one and i was going to get a little one at auto zone or something, but i dont know where it will fit(I was looking in the fender area but that doesnt look very big). Im tired of filling up my radiator with the rigged overflow can i have now. The anti-freeze jug im using(dont laugh to hard) fills up in 30-40 minuets of driving. Obvously its not sealed.

 

Are you saying that you're pushing 4L of coolant out of your cooling system in 30 to 40 minutes of driving?

 

About a 3/4 of a gallon in 30-40 mins of driving. i take it thats not a good thing?? The temps are always at 160-180 while driving

Ive never blead the system for air in the cooling system. Should i do that because I just read about that??? Just thinking here of what it could be?? Im it could also be the head gasket pushing air into the cooling system(but the oil i drained looks great and never have i seen white smoke)

 

Ok I checked the anitfreeze that was in the overflow i made, is green like normal, theres no oil in it, or anything else in it but a little scaleing crap on the bottom of my overflow jug. It smells the same as new anti freeze(i smelled both what i had and a new bottle to make sure they smelled the same) Im just worried right now!

 

wow u should not be pushing coolant like that sure u dont have a bad radiator cap ? u can also check the head gaskets by letting the car idle with the radiator cap off if its pushing air u will see a steady stream of air bubbles in the radiator after a few minutes

and the cheap felpro's are the good head gaskets, the only thing i use besides those ar the graphite victor reinz gaskets which are a lil more money those gaskets are all black

ill take a look at the log and come up with the times for ya

 

Yea thats alot of coolent. When i get it back together in a few days... Ill start it up and see whats going on. I never had this issue untill i took off that stock overflow container. I got the stock rad. cap. Ive never gotten a new one...LOL.. You happen to know the LBS that the stocker is rated at as i have 2 new ones. I think there like 5-8psi and 14-18psi.. Thats a big difference and i dont wana put the wrong one on and blow stuff up..

 

i dont know what u changed on the watsgeate but now ur losing boost peak 11 drops to 9 psi, but put it back the way u had it

also in the log i see a huge lag from the time u went wot till i get a mph reading i cant figure out why that would be

 

go get a 15/16lb cap for it

 

anychance u took a video of the pull

 

I changed the psi to drop at higher mph, since i was messing with so much on the fueling i wanted to be sure i was safe at wot for that long
I didnt vid tape it, i just recorded it on the log and used the g-tech thing too.

Do me a favor and look at cells 62-66 right before i shifted.... i felt the car lag there for a blink of an eye...i dont know if the spark was having issues there or what.

 

the lags probly bigger because i was from a dead stop today compared to yesterday, and i also change the wastgate duty cycle a bit so it doesnt spike at 13psi like yesterday.. Im still tweaking it... Its not so rich under AE anymore..

 

ill take a closer look at the log a lil later ima actually at work right now

 

Ok dave . I think i was stinkin rich at those cells, you can see the RPM drop a little before i shift into 3rd.. AFR was way low..10.2-10.9 Thats why it felt funky right there. The whole other pull though was fine, smooth, and fast.

 

Well what I fear would happen did! The head gasket is blown for sure. The drivers side one.

I put the top end back on today, from the lower intake manifold up, got everything ready to go, and when i fired it up.....steam came out of the lower head, under the exhaust manifold instantly! I let it run for like 2 minuets while i was setting the timing and noticed it. I shut the motor off fast, and then checked the nice new 15$ of oil I just put in it and yup it was just a hair milky(but thats all the proof I need)!! WTF! Im so mad right now as I just was starting to have fun and now Ive got to spend 4 hours ripping it apart and then 4 or 5 more hours putting it back together! Only good thing is its only one side..honestly i heard the slight pop when it went and it was one the drivers side that is now bad.

Any tips on how to properly make sure all the coolent is outa my oil system???

Yesterday when I did the WOT run in the 1/4 I felt the car act shuggish for a quick second at like 75Mph(afrs were low and that could have caused it??), then it went away and kept pulling.(this slight hicup was fast, only 3 cells when I look at tunerpro) Then when i got slowed down I noticed it was hotter then normal, but drove fine and when I got home I though..ohh its because all the rad fluid is in the overflow...lmfao!! I actually said to myself yesterday that i just knew I just blew a head gasket on that pull! Well I guess I was right..son of a b!!

Also I though I put felpro ones on there but they were all black.. IIRC they were those victor..something.. Would these be ok because the more I think, the more I wounder if i should change both of the head gaskets out with something better?? What ones work well with boost on our cars??? Felpro all blue ones or the black ones that have the blue outline(25$ a piece ones, also im broke..LOL)

these http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...___#fragment-2??? All blue ones..

 

use either gasket i never had bad luck with either the blur or black gasket

get urself new headbolts if u reused ur old ones they may not of held tq properly

also when u put ur heads back on did u run a tap threw the head bolt holes in the block to clean the threads? dirty threads will give u a flase reading on the tq wrench

when u tq down the new head bolts ts them down an extra 5#'s before u do the 90* turn

 

Yea i dont know why the gasket failed so soon but i know im bummed out forsure!

Ill get new head bolts.. I reused the old ones when i did the cam stuff.. I didnt plan on boosting this car this winter so I didnt expect to make mass pressure in the cylinders like i am now.

Nope i didnt run a tap down the threds either..didnt know I was suppose to do that.

Ok the book says 40# then a additional 90* turn so ill go 45# then. Whats the proper sequence(which pattern to torq down.....x pattern from front to back?)

Im at work now and all i can think of is that I have to take that whole freaking motor back apart and go over it with a fine tooth comb

 

45# then 90

if the threads were dirty u could have been as low as 20#'s
also the head bolts stretch so they prolly lost tq this is more then likley the reason u blew out the headgasket

also drain the oil in the motor asap, antifreeze will eat away at the bearings
get urself a gallon of diesl fuel and flush the motor out with that after u drian the oil

if u really want to get serious with it invest in head studs they arent much more then new head bolts

oh yeah u never go end to end when tq'ing the head bolts u start in the middle and work ur way out to both ends of the head

start in the middle bolts then do the ones on the right nexto the center ones then goto othe ones the left of the centers then back to the right and then back to the left etc

 

Ok just pour the diesil in the valve cover(oil stop) and let it drain out the oil plug...or let it sit for a minuet???

Bolts like this?? Would they work? You happen to know the stud size? If i can find some of those?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5_R%7CGRP60012_____ Im still on a budget forsure... if these will work ill just pick them up tommorow with some felpro(blue) head gaskets

 

I drained the oil already, earlier, its bad man. Milky. and the coolent smelled like gas.
Ok thanks on the torq proceedure!

Those head bolts are TTY bolts... that means dont use lube when installing them correct??? Lube will mess up the reading and could overtorq the bolts?

 

yes the head bolts are tty u put a lil oil under the head of the bolt were it hits the cyl head but not on the threads of the bolt
pour the diesil in the lifter valley when u get the intake off and let it drian out no need to let it sit

take pics when u pull the head off to wanna see what the gasket looks like, also make sure the heads arent warped

 

Ok if i get lucky i might have them off late tommrow night..I hope

 

Good luck fasteddi! I'd run studs if you can afford them. I'd bet you just stretched the head bolts a tiny bit. Just enough to blow the gasket. It has happened to others before. I've been following your build with interest.

 

Chase the head bolt threads to clean them, do not tap them to clean them. A cheap head gasket will last, but do not expect it to last forever though. Cheap head gaskets are good because they are cheap insurance in case detonation occurs, as they are usually the first to let go instead of a connecting rod... most guys running a cast rotating assembly will run cheap head gaskets for that sole reason. Post a picture of the blown head gasket when you get the chance Mark...

 

Ok thanks Rob!!

Im going to get new head bolts(felpro TTY ones are 30 bucks and in stock at the local parts store) Ill get them and some oil/filters, and new gaskets.
I hope to have it tore down late tonight, and once i get the heads off Ill post up a pic. Im still depressed about the situation(more $$ and time) But its the game ya play when you wana go fast, shows the flaws in the work Ive done, so Ill get it done right this time.

 

years on my cheap headgaskets and i never had one let go

 

Dave, mabey i didnt have those torqed down right, they were reused and i sure didnt chase the threads to clean them up?? You gotta remember this is the first time Ive had to do work like this to a car, to make it fast. All the cars Ive had in the past were already fast, so i never did anything but bolt on mods. Im a newbe at this and ive found the flaws in my install from when i put the cam in...

 

Remember that you are planning on 15 plus pounds of boost pressure running the $59 mask, and the stock head gaskets were never intended to support for that much of a quench. Cometics are the way to go, but they are pricey. In your case Mark, I would recommend head gaskets that are slightly better than the stockers (those Fel Pro's will be fine), just so you can continue to dial your tune in at under 15 pounds of boost. Once you start boosting above 15 pounds though, your going to be going through head gaskets like there is no tomorrow...

Dave's head gaskets lasted him, yes, but that is because he didn't/doesn't drive the car as much as you do, so you are more prone to blowing a head gasket because your stomping on it every chance you get. My advice, once you start pushing 15 plus pounds, invest in a set of MLS head gaskets, ARP bolts, and stronger main caps. The crank, pistons and rods will last you for a very long time provided you don't detonate. Just keep your air temps as low as possible, and keep your exhaust gas temps in check. By the way, did you run an exhaust pressure ratio to boost pressure ratio test yet...?

 

No i didnt run a ex-boost ratio test.. How do I do that? Goal is 1:1 right or as close to it as possible

 

rob we daily drove that 2.8 for 3 years and me and christine always beat on that thing.

hell rember when we first installed the ms unit and took it to the track and i detonated the hell out of that thing they still didnt pop.

maybe i got lucky who knows ,all i know is id rather pope a hg then a piston

yeah sorry for not specifying u just chase the threads with the tap dont buy a starter tap, get a thread chasing tap.

since i know this stuff sometimes i fail to relize that when i tell somone they wont know exactly what to do.

from looking at the data logs i didnt see and kr at all so im pretty sure the heads just werent tq,ed right and thats why u took out the gasket

after u chase the threads and get new bolts like i said give tq them to 45# instead of 40# before u do the 90* turn on them, its the method ive always used though i went with more initial tq on the bolts but i dont advise that to u since if u snap a head bolt u dont have a full machine shop at ur disposal to get the snapped bolt out