Wont that kill the tranny?? I got a tranny cooler on it, to keep it somewhat cool.

I dont plan on all out flooring it except at the track. Im also running the stock converter, and looking at a friends 26x9'' slicks on 15inch rims.

Honestly I cannot afford one of those built converters as the smaller ones for the 60* motors are more $$ then the bigger ones for the 90* engines.

Ill look into the silenoid. J/Y are scarse arround here for parts. I might just look into finding that boost silenoid off the internet. Sounds like a good investment for under 50 bucks.

Thanks for the pin out for that and the link #'s to the silenoids.

I just got done helping a friend put his 351W back into his mustang..what a task that was. But i took him for a little ride in the camaro and he was impressed. Now this is from a guy that has a mustang that runs 12.00's constantly. Made me smile as he was the first person to ride in it and I was only on the throttle 50%.

I datalogged for a good 20minuets today and the tables that are NOT under boost are freaking awsome. Almost a perfect 15afr at all crusing speeds and kpa's under 100kpa. The idle is still at 14 roughly and doesnt hunt to bad, if any. So that WOT is the problem area still but ill get there in time.


Oh yea I was handed 5gal of 115 octane today to water down the low octane, for racing.....

 

ive never have goten bad gas myself but the one time that comes to mind is when i drove 200 miles to a new racetrack and on my way home i was almost on empty the only gas station in the area was out of premium and mid grade so i had to fill up with low grade stuff. turned the boost down to 5 psi and the car ran fine on it

 

u wont need that 115 oct fuel to mix at the track, and 115 i belive is leaded u dont want to use it if it is

tci makes a very nice converter, i can call one of my contacts over there and can prolly get u one for around 350 bucks it lists for 550

do not tighten up the tv cable, i do recomend a basic shift kit though i.e boost valve and low reverse valve with the other typical mods

if i were u i would also manually shift the trans as the line presures inside the trans are higher when in manual low and 2nd gears this will help stop the clutches from slipping

 

Yea that 115 def. has lead in it. I guess ill just use it in a 1962 olds 98 ive got. 394 BB in that thing but wow does the tranny suck in that car. Its got a slimjim in it..LOL

Ill try to see what happends when i manually shift it. What is the best(and lowest price..LOL) shift kit arround. And how hard is it to install, ive never messed with auto trannys before.

 

its not hard at all to install a shiftkit u just need to be able to concentrat on what u are doing.

transgo makes a really good shiftkit but its pricy at 80 bucks
i used a b&m in my car 25$ most ppl frown on this kit cause it blocks off the acumulators in the transmission which causes alot of droiveline shock, but ive never had an issue with it.

one word of advice burn 2 chips one for street and one for the track setup the converter to lock in the track chip at a mph higher then what u trap at.
the stock converter wont take a whole lot of wot lockups under boost.
when i ran a stock converter i actually disabled the lockup all together

for the street just set lockup at a normal rpm as u wont be locking up the converter under wot except for a few now and then instances

 

Im trying to figure out this bin right now.. theres like 8 scalers for the TCC in the bin. I know that thing is locking up way to fast. I need to change that and see if thats the issue

 

The fix is simple, just drive with a lighter foot, if that's what happens.

Otherwise a bin switcher with two different boost settings would be ideal, you can even have less timing then, or some other changes between the bins, not just boost level reduction.

 

transgo 74$ prolly the best of them all
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRG-700-2-3/
b&m transpak80$ this is actually a better kit then i use
http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=tr...-th-700r4-4l60

 

send r-bob a msg im sure he will know what u need to do to fix the tcc

my fix is to just unplug the 4 pin connector on the transmission, but ur fuel milage will go down 1-2mpg on the highway

 

Thanks for the links!!!
Im going to see if the bin doent lock up the converter. I hope it works now...The lock up was set really low before, so hope that didnt tear up my TQ Con

 

i dont think u were making enough power to hurt the lockup just yet, but better safe then sorry, btw u can also use a v8 converter as long as its a 10 inch or smaller unit

 

eaiser said then done when ur up in the mountains, going up the side of the mountains the turbo would spool up even at part throttle

 

LOL well i live in the flat lands... I did drive it and now it seems to run better and smoother. 60% throttle in these videos max of 7.8 psi. No knock, although the VE was a little leaner then earlier(i think its because its like 30 out now and earlier it was alot warmer) cold air is so much denser. But check the video, does that look like its better, for a 60% throttle and i was feathering it too(you can hear me do it)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6aK2...ature=youtu.be

 

looks liek its running good, now u need to do a wot pull from 0-120

 

I know.. i wana get on it so bad. Its hard not too. Did you ever check that excel sheet from yesterday?? Seems like my timing is super low. I wana get that right first and make sure theres no knock. It knocks here and there a little(but i see it as knock retard so thankfully the ECU is taking out timing when that happends, usually a little amount. >1*) Mabey if i can get a nice pull or two and get the tune right i will get a WOT run to 100 or so. Gotta find a sweet flat road with no houses. thats not hard out where I live.

I hate this boost controler I have. It spikes a little at like 11psi then goes down to 10psi under a hard load.

 

no im still getting all the updates and crap for my laptop ill be able to look at it a lil later.
take a picture of what ur using as a boost controller and how u have it hooked up

 

I have it hooked inline with the turbo to the wastegate in the vaccum line. Its a old controler. One of those controlers that has a little spring and a ball in the body and you turn the **** to restrict the Psi the wastgate sees..know what i mean??

 

Im definitly liking that idea alot!! Im sold on the boost silenoid


Edit. One boost silenoild is on its way with the pig tail.(cost more then A manual controler but I like this way better so that i can tune seperate chips for say...6psi and then 10psi at the track or what ever I decide to go.

 

I wouldnt mind having a look at your .bin file later on when you're happy with it. I'm in deep snow up here and my car is put away for now.

I seem to have an issue with fueling with $59...

I have a REALLY high stall and 60# injectors though, might be giving me issues.

http://www.code59.org/index.php?opti...&limitstart=40

I also cannot for the life of me get enough "pump shot" for a quick throttle slam, it goes WAY lean, then richens up. I tried all the tables, can't get enough shot it seems.

There's the thread if you encounter the same conditions, maybe you would have some insight.

 

I started reading your thread... You used auto tune??? Was that with tunerpro?

 

Yes and Yes.

 

Im having problems getting it to copy and paste....on tuner pro rt V5

 

I havent used 5 yet....

 

Ok i heard that autotune works good on V4 but not V5 thats why I was woundering... You get your car to idle well with good AFR's?? That was my main issue, but its better now. But ill read more on that thread and let ya know on there what Ive delt with on $59.

 

ya mine idles great.

Even starts and idles at -15*F as tested the other day.

brrr.

 

Dave or Rob or anyone else.. I just now figured out why my car seems to "buck" a little...the gap isnt tight enough in the plugs and its blowing the spark. I didnt say anything earlier but when im really pulling on those runs it was acting weird sometimes.. the engine sounded exactly like it was bucking like those videos on pills/turboed car. I need to go back and make sure they are all gapped at .025 before i drive it again. I though I had them to .025 but mabey not. I hate gapping plugs that shallow its difficult to get them perfect.

Really I though it was the tune because it would boost so well then do that and slow down, but I KNOW its those plugs.. has to be.

I feel like I figured something out on my own..sorta. I just had to say that. I know you guys are probly thinging, jezz this guy makes alot of post and takes a crap ton of videos...

11 seconds in.. sounds exactly like that but louder since its more boost and my turbo seems to be alot louder then that one??
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePqjCncFM68

24 seconds in.. sounds more like mine... the bucking sounds of the motor/turbo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnHaB3bSbOE

 

Hanging around the Turbo Buick guys for the last decade, I tend to agree with what a lot of them have been saying regarding spark plug gap, and that is that plugs that are gapped at .028"-.030" are ideal for engines up to 17-20 psi of boost pressure. Anything less than that and you are essentially robbing yourself of power. I personally never ran lower than .028"...

 

But is that sound that is in those videos from the gap possibly being to great?? Becasue mine sounds exactly like hat They were new at .050...LOL And i got then down to..well honesty some might have been left at .035 so i need to check that in the morning, and get it to that .028 or so. That was the day i was just setting the Idle and the base timing and burining mass idle chips and rushed at gapping them. I was going to go back and recheck the gap but forgot. I hate when I forget things..old age kicking in


ONE last though for the night...where exactly could I find a comp. map for that turbo ive got?? It just amazes me the power it makes at 8+ psi. Its effiecency has to be in the higher psi..like 8-14psi or somthing. Im going to run the wastegate vac line up to the intake tommorow and forget about that crappy controler i have till the new stuff gets here and hope that it makes 7psi tommrow, as 5.5-6 feels slooooow...... Ill get back at the tuning for a little bit tommrow. Itll be cold out(35*-40) so that always helps my tune till it gets warm and its all messed up again....

 

tighten the gap up to .020 and see if it goes away if not u need better spark plug wires and coil.

going to .025 on pils car solved his issues but he also had a really good wireset and coil if i rember right

theres no way u will get away with .028-.030 on ur car even at 7 psi the gn has a dis ignition system those systems have alot more energey then the gm hei 65k+ volts vs the 30-40k of the hei system

more then likley u will have to upgrade to an msd coil and wireset or like a taylor wireset etc

 

Didn't even look at those video's, or that car, because apparently that car isn't even running right now, nor are they wide open pulls of it, nor are there any video's of it at the track indicating what it is running. Just speculation from the tuner. Gap your plugs at .028" Mark, they will be fine. You are not even close to 15-psi of boost pressure, there is no way you are blowing out the spark, and there is absolutely no reason to go down to .020". Whoever would even suggest something like .020" for your car is not only clueless, but is only encouraging bad idle and misfires. Grand National's are set to .035 from the factory, Turbo Supra's are set to .032 from the factory, and almost every turbo Mustang that I know of running a "distributor" gaps them between .028"-.030"...

Even Steve (ZZ3astro) was told to bring the gap down to .020" with his TPI Camaro because he was breaking up, and it wasn't his gap, it was spark advance, and now he is back to .025"+ spark gap. You will be fine at .028 with your application, however I would look into the ignition system itself if you are having a problem burning the mixture. Which plugs are you running exactly (brand, heat range, etc.), which set of spark plug wires are you running with them (brand, thickness, etc), which coil and ignition module are you running? If you are running an ignition system that isn't designed for, or can't keep up with, the added boost pressure, then the answer isn't tightening the spark plug gap down to .020", the answer is a better ignition system...

 

I have msd 8.5mm wires and a msd coil that i replaced last summer. The plugs are AC delco r42ts. Ill check out every connection again and the gap, hope thats the issuse. If not then ill look into the ingition system some more.

 

That is what I was running for awhile, I would go back and forth with the 42's and 43's, then I just decided to go with the NGK's. Your shooting for the largest gap possible that your system will be able support, so there really is no magic number when setting the gap, as you don't want it to be too large of a gap to blowout the spark, but you also don't want it to be too tight so that it lessens flame propogation. Your looking for a happy medium, and .030 is where we all start the determining process from...

 

I re-gapped them at about .028 that seems to make it not bark like it did yesterday. Im going to attatch the excel log from the final chip ill burn for the day. I was so mad earlier because when i just mashed the throttle knock retard would shoot up to like 4* so id have to let off the gas immediatly!! The knock was only there in high RPMS So i kept adding fuel and taking timing out if the fuel didnt work.. then finally I just go out at lay into it and almost no knock at all and I actually added timing??? Im lost at why that helped, also the intake temps where higher?? Does it help when intake temps are like 70-80* insted of 50*???

Just check out the excel if ya can, it seems to be ok. Although is boost creep when the boost will shoot up to say 10psi then drop and hold at 7.5psi?? It did that on a few pulls and Im done with the boost till that boost silenoid get here becasue the one im useing suxs.. And 10psi is much more of a rocket then 7psi, i think that turbo is just better...ALOT better at psi levels over 7 psi....

 

If your set at 10-psi, you'll hit that at a target RPM peak, then as you carry through the RPM boost pressure will eventually taper off (exhaust and RPM will eventually push the turbo out of it's efficiency range at some point and taper). With boost creep though, your boost pressure will taper off as normal, but then suddenly your boost pressure will build boost again past the peak RPM point and it won't stop until you let go of the throttle. This will cause a lean condition...

 

now tighten the plug gap back up and increase the timing under boost ur only @ 10* total under boost

also unhook that boost controller its causing a 4-5 psi boost spike which is not going to help ur tuning, after the intial spike the boost just falls back to wastegate spring setting anyway

i have a feeling the boost controller u have is supposed to be tee'ed into the top wastegate port thats why i asked to see a picture of it


add in 7 degress of timing from 2,800 rpms upto 4500 rpm
and add 5* from 4,600 and up

 

How much am i suppose to tighten up that gap?? its already at .028

Im not gonna rn the car till i get that boost sileniod. So hopefully by this weekend. Then ill get the boost under control. I know im in question of the little timing i am running. Sometimes I think that something is sending off the same Hz and making the knock sensor hear knock even though it isnt, real knock. But since im not sure of that, ive been cutting back on the SA.

 

Ok rob. I definitly dont have boost creep then, just a crappy controler. The sileniod will be here by friday, says the shipper, so Ill get that in before I tune anymore.

That F2 pin for the silenoid is for a air diverter/controler or somthing like that... So its not an empty pin. But thats the right spot. Thanks rob for the help on that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!How do I find out what the Effiecency range is of the turbo??? Any ideas?

 

ok ki thought u went wider on the plug gap the .003 wont make a difference right now.later down the road i can tell u with the stock ignition system with only a coil and plug wires u will need to be around .020 for high rpm hi boost
u have to little timing right now and it will cause false knock ur max timing currently under boost is a measly 11/12*
cruise areas look pretty decent for now though

 

Too little timing will cause knock?? I do know for sure that as Ive added a little timing this morning that it actually had less spark knock...werid man, I wish I knew why that happen....

Got this intake set up pretty cheep. Got the filter and 90* elbow off a friend for 25 bucks, It fits good! So at least now I can give the car clean air on those drives......

 

if u changed the timing already just get me a new data log for me to look at so i can see were u at

 

My current bin is the excel log i linked earlier today. That excell log is what im currently running.

 

then u need more timing under boost u have 10-11.5* for most of the time ur in boost

 

Ok, 10-12 looked low as HEL* in my bin but youd laugh at how low my timeing was at one point since i saw knock retard. I just keep lowering it and it didnt help. So i added timing and fuel in a few bins and finally I was able to stomp it and it didnt knock. You can see in those logs that I was WOT when I was making the boost.

Im going to play with the bin some more but until that controler gets here on firday im not gonna drive the car.

Part throttle is great i think(14.5-15.5Afr's when not in deaccel mode), exspecially under 100KPA, and the Tcc isnt locking up now like it did. Thats why I included that in the excel log.

 

does ur bin have anything that will pull timing based on air temp?

 

Yes it does, F3 which is SA adjustment vs manifold temp vs boost. Right now its all set at -1.6 on all of the values in the table.

 

Ok all you turbo guys.. Why is it that I add timing and the spark retard goes down??
Got and hour today to play after work, since its nice out and made a long datalog, recorded about 15 minuets of it. Knock was in the peak area of 1.5* under 100throttle only for a moment(the knock), and rare at that.
Heres the log if anyone wants to check it out and the ADX to play it on turnerpro.

Took that crappy boost controler off and ran the vaccum line from the wastegate to the manifold.

 

what do u mean spark retard goes down?

im about to run out to go pick up my paycheck but ill look at the log when i get back

 

upload log file in he other format please

 

Heres the log in excel, theres alot of just crusing on the log. But I first ran a chip that i didnt record with about 3* less in all cells and there was bad bad retard. Like 4* so i just stoped there and changed out to a new chip and recorded this.

I just wana know why exactly would more timing make less knock??


I got a compression guage the other day and wanted to see, just for the hel* of it what my comp. is in each cylinder. WHAT are acceptable numbers when I take the readings. Also once I hook the gauge up do i just turn the crank over manually?? I would think that would be easiest??

 

its false knock, its really hard to explainatleast for me, maybe somone else can out it into simpler terms tyhen im thinking of . but to little timing and to much fuel can both cause a false knock condition.

for the comrpession test pull the fuses for the fuewl injectors and unplug the coil

then remove all 6 plugs and block the throttle open and test each cyl

u crank the motor over with the starter but while ur in the car hitting the key u want to be able to see the gauge on the compression tester

what u do is crank the motor untill the gauge jumps up for the 3rd time, this is ur reading.

a specific nuber is not important, u want to see +/- 10% across all cyls

once i seated the rings in my 3.1 i had 197 cranking psi

u will prolly see in the 150-165 psi range