Im really curious about this timing on the car. But anyways I got some Taylor wires today, finally.

 

Thats what Im going to do RBob, give the car what it wants.

Ill try to learn some more about this area of timing since im still new at all of this.

 

Sounds like you are running DIS and used the SA offsets to get the wheel at the proper timing point. From my experience with the GM DIS set ups is that the latency doesn't vary over RPM (same for LS1 coils).

Although, add a connector to the EST/BYPASS line, open it, and then adjust the trigger wheel for the 10* BTDC. After that it is all on the latency value.

RBob.

 

That is the way to do it. The other side is that you can't look at the SA values being used and state those as fact. I had a bunch of folks tell me that I was running too much SA, and based on the commanded numbers they were correct.

Based on the at-crankshaft numbers, nope, both they & I were incorrect.

Need to re-mount the MAP so that the vacuum port in facing down.

RBob.

 

Whats (time domain correct to spark)?
And also (High Rpm Advanced slope)?

Both of these are in the scalers section.

 

Im going to move the MAP sensor right now. Thanks for reminding me.

Heres a pic of it, this is ok? The one thing though is the hose that runs off the back on the manifold to it, its a hard piece but over the years it has cracked and had to be pieced together by normal hose. 1). is this a bad thing, and 2). where can I get stuff to replace it?

 

Much better. It is actually the manufacturer spec that the MAP be mounted with the port facing down. And the line to the vacuum/boost source be on a downward slope. This is to prevent moisture build up in the line or sensor. Which could also freeze in cold weather.

As for a replacement vacuum/boost line, I don't know of anywhere to get a stock replacement one. May be able to find one in decent condition in a JY.

I've done the same when they break, use a piece of vacuum hose to join them. But on a boosted set up I'd be leery as boost could push it off. Maybe use some superglue to help retain it.

Can also run a straight piece of vacuum hose. The downside is that the volume is usually larger and the line can expand and retract, this slows the response of the MAP sensor (line acts like a damper).

Need some loom separators on the plug wires.

RBob.

 

Been trying to follow your thread but some days just too many posts

Note that the stock TC stalls in the 2300 - 2400 range. Can see this in your "march 30th use this chip for norwalk.csv" log file. Right at the beginning you are holding the TPS at 11% and quickly go to 100%.

Takes about 1/2 second for the convertor to flash from 1500 RPM to 2300 RPM (and 0 MPH), next frame shows 2400 RPM and 6 MPH.

For a little money can put in larger main & reverse/intermediate boost valves along with a larger servo. For the servo could even pickup the standard V8 one cheap. It is larger then the V6 servo and will add holding power to the band.

Most would jump to the 'vette servo which is larger still. But that will cost more then a used standard servo and may cause 2/3 up-shift timing issues.

The boost valves and servo can be done with the trans in the car. Although they can be a hassle to install.

RBob.

 

I generally use 3/16" brake line for most vacuum lines, with just short pieces of rubber at the ends or where it needs to flex.

 

Bob, I think he is inadvertently flashing to 2300-RPM, maybe because his transmission is either slipping, or the sprag in his stock torque converter might be broken losing all of its' torque multiplication...

 

Lol, I'm in the process of doing that same exact thing for the FPR on one of the cars here now. The plenum fitting and the FPR fitting are both 3/16", so using a section of 3/16" brake line is perfect.

Only debate is to: try to put a small bubble flair on the ends of the hardline, or to put a small circle of solder on it. This is for the flex line retention. I've done the solder before and it works, but is tricky to get a nice even circle of solder. So I'm also considering a small flair instead.

I was going to mention this for fasteddi's MAP but decided that it may be troublesome. The ports on the MAP and the plenum are on the large side. Can see the large rubber ends on the stock line.

It would be best to solder sleeves onto the ends of 3/16" brake line to increase the diameter. This is to make it match the port fitting size. This way the flex line is tight on the sleeve of the 3/16" brake line, and not so tight on the MAP/plenum ports that the flex line may split.

RBob.

 

So far, I've had no issues with no flares, when I haven't flared the ends. I use tie-wraps to clamp the rubber hose to the hard line. If I do feel that I need to add some sort of extra part for retention, I use a slight bubble flare. Starting with the initial part of a double flare, but not bottomed out, just enough to add a small bubble.

Thinking about it now, I think I used 1/4" line for the MAP sensor.

 

Yea as I look thought the printed of 1/4 logs I have everytime it seems to stall at 2200-2400rpms

I sure hope the tranny isnt slipping or the converter is messed up

What are the bone stock V6 autos normally stall at? I though that as torq went up that the stall also goes up. For example a car with 200Hp that has a 2400 stall on it will stall higher if the Hp/torq was say 300Hp. Or is there not much of a difference when more power is applied?

 

Just a quick note guys, the hard plastic vacuum line is at Auto Zone over by the pcv valves.

 

yeah, I've always heard that the stall speed goes up with hp/tq.

 

it does goe up with increased hp and tq, a s10 converter behind his motor would stall around 3200 rpms,stock i belive they are 2,300/2,400 rpm units

stock v6 unit is around a 1,600 stall speed
i dont recomend a s10 unit to anyone making any kind of real power as they slip to much,and thats the reason i switched to my tci converter

 

Yes, but how does she feel when you launch though, does she feel like she is holding back? A flash stall at 2400-RPM w/boost should fry those tires, are you chirping any when you mash the gas, or does it slowly find its way up there? How many miles does your transmission have on it? Was it ever rebuilt? Stock TTA's with less head work and cam, running 3.27 gears, and flashing at 2500-RPM, will roast the tires when you punch it, and easily run 1.8x 60' foots. Fairly certain that stock 3.1 converters flash at 1500-RPM, but then again, who knows if your converter was replaced before you owned it.

 

stock should be 15/1600 rob, the stock converter in his car is starting to slip badly
rember my car with the stock converter and the s10 converter it couldnt do a burnout if i punched it from a dead stop the motor would just rev up and start to move.
once i switched to the tci unit it was a whole new ball game
http://www.streetfire.net/video/just...und_162499.htm

thats all just 0 to wot with no foot braking

 

That is what I was saying a few posts up, the sprag is probably shot in his stock converter, because in his vids the RPM's shoot up but he goes nowhere. With that 2500-RPM converter from Advanced Auto that I linked he more than likely will be stalling closer to 3000-RPM, and that will really compliment his engine setup, and pull him hard off the line. Yeah Dave, I remember driving your car to the mall that time after the TCI was installed and the tires just wanted to spin to the moon, and that was only with the first, much smaller turbo...

 

problem is i think that proking converter is an s10 converter, if it is it wont do him any good
the proking converters are just stock replacements

 

Hard to say if it's an S10 converter, someone needs to contact Pro-King directly to confirm. For that kind of money though, it is definitely worth it for him to install a fresh new converter with a higher stall, 2500-RPM was confirmed by Advanced Auto when I called them and gave them that part number. He needs a new converter anyways...

 

theres a thread in the transmission section with the code numbers for the s10 converter. when i get back from running out to get food ill check, but im 95% sure that proking unit is an stock s10 unit
if i had to choose between stock v6 or stock s10 id take the stock v6 unit
my car lost alot of power when i went to the s10 unit

 

The trannys stock as I know. It has 110K miles on it. I bought the car when it had 33k on it.

It doesnt really light them up when the boost kicks in hard. Its hard to explain but sometimes it pulls harder when im not WOT. Some times I get it to light the tires up but thats when its shifting into 2nd gear at like 35Mph(remember this isnt a posi rear end). But I think it really finds its way up to speed, its not a real jerk or anything like that when I mash the gas.


I just went out and added even more timing to the tune, less KR but the one thing I do notice is that the less throttle I give it the more KR that will come up. Even if its the exact same RPM's and Kpa and both are in AE mode the one where im not florring it so hard it knocks? What gives. I attatched the bosot runs only from today.

 

This is what my car does! If i just floor it no burn out, christ I could light them up after i just did the cam and heads from a 0-wot punch and that was with no tune.

 

Guys ill call over to advanced auto and order the thing, what should I ask them about this proking..because I have no idea what that is.

 

That's because your blowing through your stock converter...

 

Pro-King is the manufacturer, just confirm the stall speed when you order, 2500-RPM...

 

Can you believe this..the local advanced auto has it in stock but its 132$ without the core charge included. hu? I also asked them for detail and the guy i talked to only told me what it said on the internet link. I think id rather buy it online then. 108 is better then 132 as im not in that big of a rush. But im going to stop by tommrow and mabey the kid on the phone just added the core charge into the total cost. I hope that converter works well and helps my slipping issues. Im sure it will!

 

start pulling ur converter its only a 2 hour job actually i can do a whole converter swap in less then that but ive had lots of practice

#1 pull driveshaft
#2 unbolt tq arm from rear and remove
#3 unplug tcc harness
#4 remove shifter cable from trans ,and also speedo cable well in ur case vss plug
#5 undo trans cooler lines and the 3 tq converter bolts
#6unbolt 4 bolts on the sides of the trans to motor
#7 put floorjack under trans with block of wood on it so u dont dent the pan and remove x member then llower jack so trans hangs down in the back
#8 use a 3/8s drive ratched with a swivel 15mm socket on 2 3ft extensions and get the 2 top bolts by going in from the rear of the transmisiion
( have the jack slightly supporting the transmission so it dosent drop when u pull out the last bolt )
and ur done

 

I agree with Dave, you can have it all done the day you go and pick it up. Either that, or get your hands on any converter to use as a core because the people at Advanced Auto won't even know the difference. Wait a second what am I saying lol, they refund you the core charge afterward anyways, so just bring it to them when your done installing the new one w/receipt in hand and get your money for the old one. Just make sure you pay cash, as a debit/credit will take time to get back...

 

Ok guys, if that one tommorow is there Ill go ahead and get it as I called another autozone and they said the right price..108+the core of 30 bucks. I dont have another converter laying arround but ill just take back the old and use cash tommrow.

The proceedure sounds pretty straight forward. Are the tranny cooler lines hooked up in the same mannor as they are on the radiator? Also how much tranny fluid should I put in the new converter? Just a qt or so? And ill make sure I lube up the pilot/shaft and such before putting the new one on.

Thanks Rob and Dave!!!

 

for the trans lines on the transmission u will have a line adapter screwed into the aluminum trans case, and then the trans lines screws into that so u need to wrenches to get them off, one to hold the line adapter and one to lossen the line.

getting them out is easy, reinstalling them on the other hand can be a real pita gota be carefull not to crossthread them

i dont rember how much fluid my converter held i think 1-2 qt's as far as the crank pilot u dont have to lube that.
But for the side that goes into the transmission just put some trans fluid on ur finger and wipe it over the snout of the converter before installing it into the trans

i forgot one step for trans removal u need to unhook the tv cable
normally i take down the transmission pan and unhook it from inside the transmission but u wont be doing that.

instead u may have to unbolt ur upper intake and get the cable unhooked from the bracket ans it can be pulled down to the transmission so u can remove it.

then when u reinstall it just feed the cable up by the firewall then pull it back up were it belongs

 

> I sure hope the tranny isnt slipping or the converter is messed up

They aren't {edit, was: It isn't. (that singular & plural stuff)}

RBob.

 

if you want to talk to a parts pro call over to my dad's store in bedford(advance auto). hes the manager there, just ask for Joe Nunnari and tell him i told you to ask for him. hes been in the parts business since the ice age. hes prolly gone for the day tho


HTH

 

Ok I will stop by the local store tommorow and check out the converter. If I have any issues with that I'll call over to the store in Bedford(34blazer)

I sure hope that the converter helps me make some power more efficently from a dead stop.

Thanks again for the proceedure Dave.

 

Ok update, the converter was NOT in stock but I did order it. The GM61HD 2500+ stall. It will be here by wednesday so in the mean time im going to try and take the old one out and drop that one off the same day I pick the new one up.

Also how hard it it to unbolt the conv, from the flywheel? I hope not that hard? Just have some one crank the motor over with a wrench(to line the bolts up) as I unbolt the bolts? Remember I've never done this on my own before. Thanks!


EDIT: I went out after work and check out the tranny situation really quick. I got the shifter cable off, that black pan loose(so I can unbolt the converter from the flywheel), I also disconected 2 wire connections(I though there was just the TCC lock up sileniod, whats the other one for?)

Thats all I did as im going to have to dissasemble some of the exhuast so that I can actaully remove the tranny. So either try to move it or cut and re-weld it(cut re-weld looks like the best option)

Is the only way of getting the oil cooler lines off by taking them off before I move the tranny? Or can I actually get the tranny loose and drop it a inch or 2 so that the lines don't bent but yet gives me more room to get 2 wrenches in there? Man, those things are in a horrible position to get 2 wrenches to, I sure hope all the oil residue up there has kept them from being a PITA to get off!

 

As I'm unbolting the convertor bolts, I always let the engine rotate around and get my ratchet against the bottom of the block then bust the bolts loose. The other connector is for the speed sensor. And, you should be able to drop the tranny a little before you unhook the cooler lines. just be sure to remove them for the little bracket bolted to the oil pan, if its still there. I normally use some really long extensions for the tranny to engine bolts...I like to get my breaker bar back behind the tranny. It can be tricky to do but seems to be a little easier then working in a very confined space.

 

Ok, thanks!!


I will hopefully get time to get it out tommrow. I also took the driveshaft off today and think I will be ok and not have to cut any of the exhaust to get the tranny out. So I just have to get the cooler lines off, the conv. bolts and the belt housing bolts, and all the crossmember stuff(including the driveshaft side cover?? or what ever that thing is called) Then I should be good to go..hopefully. Im thinking a hour and the tranny will be on the ground.

 

Dave that car sounds just like mine!!

I can hear the wastegate venting into the atmosphere. Man, I really hope mine can get up like that with a different converter. I hope I didnt just waste 110 bucks on a converter im gonna blow through.

 

That was my old '98 LS1 Trans Am @ 1:04, Dave thought I was racing for some reason...

 

well u did try to keep up with us at the light when we flew up on the black truck, so we thought u were going to do it again so that time i faced the camera to the back of the car.

lol the light turned green and it looked like u feel alseep lmao,then we tried to get u to follow us onto rt 18 and u didnt do that either lmao

lol i really wanted to get the v6 vs ls1 on rt18 on camera lol

fast it easiest to undo the trans lines once u unbolt the trans xmember from the car and let the back of the trans hang down.

btw just unbolt the xmember form the car and leave it attached to the transmission

 

Try lol? You clearly hear her say "right behind me" @ 1:00 the first time (was only half throttle)...

 

I did hear that.

Dave could you smell the ex, when the WG was opening? LOL Everyone that rides im my car say that they can smell it but I cant tell.

I raced my friends 2002 V6 camaro yesterday, not even a chance in h$ll that he was gonna beat me and I learned how to build he boost and and then going sideways arround a turn. I have to get that on video as soon as I get the car back together. I felt like I was drifting

 

yeah u can smell it a bit when u go wot for a llil while and its venting

lol rob u told us u were wot :P

 

I'd like to see one of these little bad boys used with that new stall speed converter...

 

What is that rob?

 

Don't let the cost of it fool you, most bang for the buck you'll ever get (literally)...

http://www.trutechtrans.com/Sonnax-T...t-AS1-01K.html

 

Its 7 dollars?? You thinking my TV cable is getting out of wack at WOT?


Well I only have about a hour to get that tranny the rest of the way off so I can pick up the newer converter tommorow. Wish me luck

 

Should cover the HVAC opening. Fumes are bad enough, the real issue is a fuel leak. Shades of Enemy of the State in that case.

RBob.

 

Good point there.

Quick question. Im ready to unbolt the tranny from the blk. Now that bar that is from the side of the tranny back to the rearend, what is the best way to remove that???