Im sure you are all tied of seeing my pics..LOL

As you can see I drilled the stainless and put in some 1/2" screws then work fine but i didnt tighten them up yet. I have weather stripping between the lid and the body. Also thinking of puttin a bead of sealent down. But I wont do any of that till I know the pump is fine and its not leaking.


Had to do some advertising for moates and deltacams, there stuff has helped me a ton! Dont mind those tremec stickers, theyve been on the car since I cought it...LOL

Like my over flow can??I got a real one one ordered and on the way

 

Not that im going to buy one but these e-bay blankets ones work at all???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/t25-t28-gt28...950bdb&vxp=mtr

But I do need to tape some things off to keep that heat down... do you guys think this stuff is good and would work? If not Im open for sugestions please! How much would I need to tape that exhaust to the turbo up?? I have no idea what is good and what is bad stuff, also how much Ill need.... im still a newbe
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50ft-roll-BL...e7dab2&vxp=mtr

 

bpoth the blanket and the wrap work well,installing those will bring the temps down and make the turbo spool up faster

 

Any Ideas on how much tape Id need to cover about 8Ft of pipe?? 50 ft, 100ft?

Now that I think of it how plyable is that hear wrap/tape? Its basically impossible to get my exhaust back off without cuting it off. The only exhaust I can take off is the downpiping.

 

When I got home this morning I had a hour to play with the car so I cleaned up these welds, only thing about fat welds is you can grind away with no worries..LOL Ill sand it down and throw some Blk heat paint on it later.

I know its not the best looking set up but I do want it to look decent when I open the hood.







I know im a crappy welder but it hold up and sealed tight.

 

Mark, do you still have that T25 turbo off of the Eclipse? If so, do you have the oil fitting feed that goes on the top of it? Really don't feel like making my way over to the junkyard that is why I ask...

 

I have one that I made, It didnt have one when I got it, I just cut and ground down a 1/4" piece of metal and threaded a barb fitting on the top of it, then drilled holes out for it. If you want it, its yours but really Its not the best. You could probley make one like I did in about 20 minuets and patients.

I ended up selling the turbo itself a few weeks ago.

 

We already made one for it awhile ago, but this guy is very **** and wants an original piece for it again, and Mitsubishi is charging an arm and a leg for it new. I just picked one up today from the boneyard...

 

 

I did this earlier, though it looked better, and I made some EGR block offs out of 1/2 stock to make some spare room.

Amazed how well the charge pipe turned out exspecially where the IAT sensor is on, I made a bung up out of a nut... And it looks good now.

Can barly see the weld thats about 2 inches from the IAT sensor twards the TB.



No more EGR, and I wish I would have used the same paint for the charge pipe from the turbo to the IC, but oh well.

Seriously though does this look good?? Not hillbilly rigged??

 

just buy 100ft roll, the stuff is cloth so it wraps right around the pipes wrap the ypipe and up pipe to the turbo, and about 3 ft of the downpipe


u can wrap the charge pipes too to keep radiant heat from heating up the pipes as well,l the only issue is on very long drives the wrap will start to keep heat inside the charge pipes

 

Ok new fuel pumps in, it idled great for about 2 minuets then died. Never started again. WTF is going here? The fuel filters not plugged?? Absolutly no fuel coming out of the rail, and I checked the line all the way up to the rail and its not pinched anywhere?

Also I removed the line coming out of the fuel filter, and yea tons of fuel came pouring out. Im really flustrated at this point, car start only if you spray gas into TB

 

Check the fuse by the battery, if okay then check your ignition module...

 

Ok, I just replaced that ICM a few months ago. that thing better not be bad......

Am I suppose to remove this when I put that walbro in "pulsator"

 

I removed my pulsator a long time ago, just use hose that can withstand being submerged in fuel constantly, as well as compression locks, no worm clamps. It's funny your going through this as well, as my fuel pump just went a few hours ago. It was whining like an animal, but I got it home in time though.

 

Well I got her up and running, that walbro is a tad louder..LOL.

But now when i got into the throttle, it thinks its boosting but its not?? I took off the EGR and sealed that up and such. Hu? Well another thing to figure out I guess.

 

Likely it is very rich.

RBob.

 

Ok I just burned the chip with the same bin file and now Im fine with the boost.
Yea Rob its stinkin rich at WOT now, and the DC of the injectors isnt so high considereing the AFR's/except those little glitches that are so innoying.

Oh boy more tuning now.... WOT only is attatched. Look at the afrs at higher MPH like 10's again, its like I have started all over with my tune. Because the cars SO much slower with that AFR ratio. So no more driving till its re-tuned..again. 100Ft of heat wrap/kit on the way, I just might be ready to go in 3 weeks(thats the first time Ill get to take it down the track)

but from the little bit of it running, it seems to idle much better! 15 afrs and virtually no Idle hunting.

 

NOW you can crank up the boost

 

Im really curious to see what the Higher Rpms feel like now that the fuel pump is working right??? Because im thinking I was really cutting myself short with fuel up ther before as its so rich now. 12 Psi is plenty for me for now if it it tuned right

 

even though my car is N/A, when i replaced my weak pump i had to readjust pretty much the whole VE table and WOT table. but yeah, i figured there was more in there then that. happy tuning!

 

that will last about a week

 

LOL yup, boost=addiction

 

b00st, is like a crack addiction.

 

Remember that you are running ported heads and cam, so 12-psi is much more air being forced in compared to 12-psi on a stock heads and cam 3.1. I definitely agree with everyone, it is very addicting...

 

Well after 2 hours and 5 chips later I had the 0-10 psi in ok shape so I "wanted" to try to up the boost a little. So I did.

Im getting some knock and I never really went WOT because of that, so if anyone can, could you look at that excel file? The timing is really low I think(mabey too low?) The Afr's are ok but a little iffy here and there with a 12.3 or 12.4 dashed in there.

Also the intake temps were arround 100 to 120 under boost, it is about 80-85 degrees here in ohio. Set record temps the last few days. The heat wrap isnt here yet.......

Is it easier to remove KR by taking away timing or adding fuel(saying that the AFR is 12.3)

Boost is addictive, shifting into 3nd gear at part throttle and full boost will actaully sorta jerk my car to the right.

Thanks for any tips, as with 12-13psi im scared ****%less to mess something up.

I have a good feeling that 10psi is what im going to run at the track because I want to make a full run at somepoint that day and it seems that those boost levels I sorta have in check....

 

ill take a look at the log soon as i get on my other computer, dont have the software on this one.

anyways it depends sometimes u can get rid of the knock by adding or removing fuel, othertimes u may just have a tad to much timing

 

dave I have like 14.77 timing max at 12.5 psi...that just seems low...

 

thats to low, is it kncoking at low rpm or up high?

 

Mid rpms(3-4K).. I was afrad to go WOT. I actually saw 4* of retard at one point so that scared me.

Remember back a few weeks ago when I had knock at low timing at other boost levels?? Mabey its knocking, but if I add some timing it will go away?? Just a thought

 

u shoudl have timing all in by 3k rpms 14* is way to low bump it to around 18* in that area and see what happens i bet it goes away

 

I will try that tommorow, at work now

Im thinking it will go away too, at least I hope

Im loving the boost and the injector DC is nice and low. About 70% average when it was WOT at 10psi. Thats why I decided to up the boost a little, craps like crack

 

Well I jsut played with that SA table, gotta love having a comp in front of ya at work.

I really hope I just didnt ruin the SA table, but well see tommorow. JUST to help me.....say I have 17 * of timing at 3k rpms..."should" that stay 17 or so degrees of timing until my max rpms???

I did have some issues with hard starts earlier when the car was hot. I actually took timing away and it didnt help so I added it back in.

Any guess on what your cranking spark advance was Dave???

 

14*

 

14* at startup? LOL mines like 23*. that would explain the hard starts once its warmed up...lmfao

 

14* for cranking once the motor reaches 800 rpm i have it in the mid 20's

 

you also may have to add cranking fuel too since you have a cam. i had to bump mine up when i put the cam in. but it also could be too rich, depends on what the O2 is while cranking

 

Yea mines in the 20's once running and idleing.

I have no idea if it needs more fuel but tommorow ill drop the timing down for cranking and if that doesnt help after its hot, then ill add some fuel.

How do I know if its too rich or lean at start up..the o2 values arent active yet. I guess just take fuel out and if it doesnt work add it and more back in?

 

more then likley u need to take away some fuel for hot prime
does the 59 code use a priming table or just a cranking table only
and is the table a fixed number or can it be adjusted based on coolant temp

 

Coolent Vs AFR for cranking.. an example of the value is 20 degree C=7.00 and 92 degree C=11.00afr.

Any ideas dave?

 

Hows this look dave?? Better? No knock but I did see it earlier when the at part throttle.

The hot start still isnt fixed though

 

not sure what u should put there im used to dealing with pulsewidths not afr

ms would have it like this

0*= 5ms
20*=4.5ms
40*=4ms
usually by 140 degrees i set the pulse width to 0 so no extra fuel is injected during cranking
the megasquirt also tapers the added pulsewidth down based on time or temp or ignition cycles depending on what i chose
the afterstart enrichment is the same on the ms unit so im not sure how it works on the stock ecm with code 59.

rbob or six would prolly be ur best shot at for help with the hot starting issue

 

Ok dave thanks, i took off the downpipe to wrap it with the heat wrap so called it a night.

Tuning went well though except the starts.
My girl video taped a little, she sure does like it..LOL
I rarely saw any KR with the 12.5 Psi command, only a .4 or .5* when the intake temps were higher.

Enjoy the videos

LOL really didnt make much boost but it was fun.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUiU0IEMEzE

roling to 85Mph in a hurry in this vid...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVvHjhffmC8

Another roling to 85Mph for fun...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WV8UkvbYSU

 

This is the only exhaust I can take off the car thats not welded on so I added the heat wrap, hope it helps. Ill get on the piping up to the turbo and such later this weeked.

I got the stuff a little wet when I put it on and let it outside in the sun....really didnt shrink but I wraped that stuff so tight and over lapped the wrap about 1/3-1/2 of the width over the turns, I think it will be ok?? never done this before. But is it really really tight considering...



That 100Ft roll is pretty big!! >LOL

 

the 7 at 20*C represents the commanded AFR during cranking. so its commanding 7:1 at 20*C and 11:1 at 92*C. if its having trouble starting hot you can try WOT while cranking. there is a table called something like "clear flood mode" to reduce cranking fuel at a given tps%. if it starts easier in clear flood mode than you can pull fuel. either way play with it while hot and im sure you will get it figured out. HTH

 

u overlapped a lil to much but it wont hurt it. dont know if u put that back on the car yet but when u do the wrap will smoke,it will look like the car is on fire lmao.

what i do is get the ex just hot enough for it to start smoking then shut it off and let the smoke stop, and just keep doing that till it stops

btw ur not the only one having issues tuning, i went out to fire up the iroc today and for some reason it starts and idles real rough then smooths out for a few mins then it just flat out dies on me.last time i drove the car te dam thing was fine,and now this

 

maybe the cold start decay delay needs to be longer?

 

i wish it was that simple once it dies motor wont refire unless i let it sit for a few mins, only thing i recently changed was swap out the dual vette zr-1 fuel pumps for dual areomotive stealth 340lph pumps

 

OK guys thanks!

I do know it will smoke once the wrap is on the car untill the starches are burned up.

I just overlapped the wrap since I thought it would be better to over wrap then
under wrrap?

Thansk 34blazer ill try a few of those things and see if it helps.

 

didnt you use 1 of those for constant ON and put the other one on a trigger? if you have both of them running it may be overcoming the return side of the fuel system, but im sure you thought of that. not too keen on MS but i would certainly think theres something in there for cold start. having no IAC control affects that as well. just a thought