That is the torque arm. Remove the driveshaft, remove the tailshaft housing, then remove bolts from the torque arm mount. Your going to lose a little bit of fluid this way, so have a bucket to catch the fluid handy. Also, the torque converter is pretty heavy, so keep that in mind if you pull it while lying underneath the car...

 

Ok, thanks. I did get the tail shaft and torq bar off, then ran out of time.


I can't take the tranny off as I need some 3ft extentions. Do you think that 2 or 3 20" extentions would be sufficient as thats all that the local stores have arround here. And also I havnt got the cooler lines off as there starting to be a PITA and I want to take my time and not round the flare nuts. What a hard but simple mod to do.

I know you guys are probat me since its taking me so long. 2 hrs so far and the tranny is still not out

 

u can use multiple extensions if u need to, be prepared for scraped knuuckles though, with 6ft of extensions u will have to really crank on the ratchet to break the bolts free.

that initial bolt breaking free is going to send ur hands flying specially with that swivel socket on the end

reasonbeing is most of ur twisting force u are applying is going into the extensions since they are going to twist before the bolt starts to lossen


in other words wear gloves when u take the top 2 bolts out

 

Update:

I got the tranny out, only took about 30 min with the right tools...lol

Some one was definitly in this tranny before or at least took it out as one of the lower bolts to the tranny wasn't there?? Weird! Also how much fluid do you think it takes because I know I got at least a good 4qts out of it when removing it...opps!

I do plan on flare fitting the cooler lines as that was a absolute PITA to get off. Im just going to flare the lines and use a union to connect them where it will be easier to get to them if I need to get into the tranny again.

I picked up the converter after work this morning, I dont think i'll get the tranny back up there tonight, but on friday I have alot of free time so hopefully by then I get it finished off.

 

Heres a pic of the old and of the new. I also linked a video because this one rattles a bit when I shake it. Is that normal?? I filled it up with tranny fluid prior to this. But still im new and the old one doesn't rattle and this one does so im a little worried. Thanks!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05ojV...ature=youtu.be Video of rattleing, and I added tranny fluid even though I said oil...LOL



This is the only numbers or stickers on the old converter


This was fun to re-move...lmfao

 

the rattle is normal as long ads u fill the converter then check the fluid level with the engine runing and trans in park and add as needed u will be fine

 

You will hear a little side play when it's not mounted, but when mounted you should hear no sideplay at all. Of the three fluid elements in the torque converter (stator, rotor and turbine), only the stator is fixed to the case. Regarding stall speed, the higher the stall speed means the greater the torque multiplication which will improve your acceleration off the line, tremendously...

 

Well I just got the tranny back in, just need to tighten the converter bolts, hook up my new coolent line(I made a quick disconect flare to make it easier to remove if I have to again) Then put some mroe fluid in here and hope I did everything right.

 

I got it in and now the Rpms flash to 2800-2875 when I go WOT from a dead stop. It does feel faster now and will definitly lay a burnout. I did notice im seeing a little KR when Im doing this, i think its because of the higher load at those beggining stages of boost. But overall, I like it. Feels much better then before!!

Also I had to put 9 1/2 qts of tranny fluid back in the car, so that shows you how much I lost when taking it out and in the old tq converter. This was a simple job but what a PITA to do by yourself!! The only help I got was to hold the crank to take off the converter bolts and put them back on, along with the driveshaft u-joint tabs.

Ill toss up a datalog later as I have ran out of time for the day.

 

Don't forget to reset your tv/kickdown cable, otherwise your leaving power on the table...

 

Reset? I hooked it back up to the Throt. Body.

How exactly do you reset it?

 

Very easy, yet extremely important to do...

https://www.thirdgen.org/detent

 

Wow that looks easy. Thanks again for the help Rob!!

 

must have new videos

 

Tommrow dave i'll post some up. Suppose to be a nice day out.

 

Im not quite positive i set up the TV right as that link about was worded wrong. Heres what I did, I pushed that tab in and then pushed the assembly back as far as I could, then I turned the throttle WOT and the assembly cam back out a bit, then I let off that metal tab.

I tried what it said on that link but once I let off the metal tab the assemble would be so tight I couldnt even go WOT. The cable is tight but has just a little slack to it. Should it be tigher and have no slack??

I did go after that and record a little. That converter lights the tires up sp fast. Even shifts into 2nd on one occation at about 20 mph(it was spinnning the tires that hard) But I started to play with the e-brake and got some better launches and really I can feel the front end tilt up not when I launch. I was only launching at 2k or so RPM trying to not spin!

I attatched a few little runs of 0-??Mph, basically 1st gear only but I was practicing the e-brake idea. Actaully if I let off the e-brake just a hair after the real brake, I dont spin at a start. 0-30mph times for instance are better then before without the converter. Now its 1.55 seconds on few instances on a datalog for 0-30Mph. Is that fast because that time sure seems like it? I attatched the logs for those times.

You can see in this file that I have a shot of KR here and there. I need to tune that as I only see it when im launching or doing a burnout on accident

 

the kr is prolly from something banging around when the tires are spinning
taking a look at the log now

 

log looks pretty good shoudl be real fats out of the hole now

 

Press the metal tab in, keep it held in and slide the assembly all the way back, let go of the metal tab first, then the assembly, and make sure the assembly didn't move from that spot (all the way back against the bracket). Now, do not touch the metal tab or the assembly at this point anymore. Open the throttle on the throttle body all the way to wide open throttle. It's going to feel tight, and it's going to feel like it doesn't want to open, and it's even going to feel like it's going to break, but it won't. Open it all the way up, and as you open it, you will hear a few "clicks" as the assembly works its way back into place on it's own. Again, during that point, do not touch the metal tang, or the assembly, your only opening the throttle body at that point...

 

Ok rob I will go and do that proceedure again. I just didnt wana break the assembly as it was so tight. Since Ive never done this before I didnt know if I was doing something wrong. Thanks again!

 

I was thinkin I had heard that you want to open the throttle using the pedal inside the car. Shouldn't really matter, I guess. But, that's what you're doing it with when you're driving.

 

OK I got it set, that was weird how tight it was when resetting it. I even had to hold the cable attachment to the TB when doing this as I though it was going to break but it did not. The cable is nice and tight comared to how loose it was before I did this.

 

Yes, it should be tight when adjusted correctly. Which is critical on the 700R4 (and 200-4R). The TV (throttle valve) cable controls the line pressure within the transmission.

The floor the go-pedal adjustment method isn't recommended as it won't end up being properly adjusted. Can also bend things doing it that way.

RBob.

 

When I was playing with transmissions that had TV cables, I always set it from the pedal and never had an issue.

 

While it is possible to get away with doing something improperly. Wouldn't you say that the method GM states to use is best? From page 7A-13 of the '92 Camaro factory service manual.

RBob.

 

Absolutely agree. Remember that the foot pedal also has a metal bracket that is uses down by the floorboard, and if you use the foot pedal method it will only be a matter of time before the pedal gets pushed out of whack in its' own bracket due to the resistance from the tv cable, and when this happens the throttle won't be fully open despite the foot pedal being completely floored. You'll find yourself pulling the foot pedal w/bracket back up by hand to allow the throttle to fully open again. Doing it by the throttle body w/hand is the proper way...

 

I set it as the link stated, took her for a drive and it shifts nice. Im just now dealing with KR at times now. Im not sure if its someting vibrating or real KR so when I get some more time I have to tune and see if it helps or not. Its happening at Higher Rpm levels.

 

videos!

 

My cars had always hit WOT, every time, I cheked every now and then. If the pedal or bracket flexes "out of adjustment", you'd better check for rot of the pedal or bracket, because that's not a normal thing to happen.

Back when I was playing with TV cables, the indicated "proper" method was to use the pedal. :shrug:

FWIW, I've adjusted the TV cable using the pedal and opening it at the throttle body, and the adjustment ALWAYS came out the same.

 

I Ill get some here in a bit. Im in the process of getting the exhaust back on. It definitly i fun but im still getting KR at high rpms and the plugs are fine and such. I think its from something vibrating? As more or less timing added to the bin file does nothing.... I have no idea how you turn the sensitivity of the KR sensor down through the ecm.

 

This isnt a video but its a log of a 1/4 mile run this afternoon. Still am seeing a slight KR and I know I shouldnt have but I just keept going and the KR went away. It went up to 3* then back down, youll see it in the log.

But heres the numbers below. But first here are the things im woundering. First why does my boost get lower when I shift into the next gear?? And if you look at the end of the log why does it modulate the RPMs specifically at 94 mph +. Also I had to drive about 10 miles to get to my drag racing road, so the intake was a heat sink and wow did the intake temps get up there at the end of the run.

Dave what did your Camaro have for intake temps at the end of the 1/4 mile when it was not too hot out? Its like 65* out today, no wind at all.

I will say though that the car launches much harder. And I even think its messing up that cheep g-tech with the launches. That thing said I ran a 14.74@98mph and my data on the log shows I was going over 100mph by that time. In my past G-tech was always Faster then the datalogg.

Heres the #'s

0-60mph@5.82 seconds
0-70Mph@7.44 seconds
0-80Mph@9.62 seconds
0-90Mph@11.79 seconds
0-100Mph@14.72 seconds

Felt much faster although I need to get rid of that KR asap!!

 

usually decrease the knock attack rates and increase the knock recovery rates

 

inatke temps were into the high 120's i have osme old datalogs ill have to look art to be sure though

 

as far as boost falling off if u unplug the boost controller and hook the wategate directly to the manifold does it do the same thing?

 

videos!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ok the change in recovery rate/attack rate didnt help. I took more timing out, no help there either. Watch videos exspecially the 3rd one down.

Sometimes I have bad bad KR to where I can feel the timing being taken out. Other times I have no or barely any KR at all in a WOT pull to 100MPH.

Plugs are great.
Nothing is rattling or vibrating that I can feel.
AFR's are decent 11.5-12.3
Running 10.5 PSI of boost.
Intake temps are cool, actually in the WOT run when Intake temps were hot there was never any KR.

I have been dealing with this before the new converter but now it seems to be getting worse.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TS7tvu-Eu3I 0-30 soft launch with NO KR.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMykGNtnkCw 45-85 75% throttle NO KR.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYh4X...ature=youtu.be 0-30 soft launch with KR and my explination of what is going on.



Any insite guys would be awsome as the tracks calling my name nextweekend and this KR crap is driving my crazy!!! Tommorows the last day I have time to tune untill race day.

 

Ill get some real videos once i can get rid of this innoying KR!

Im going to try a old bin file that i saved just for the track. And pray that works right!

 

Have you looked into what causes knock? Go put some race gas in and see what happens. Try getting those intake temps down, that helps also. What are you using for a intercooler? Have you tried pulling the timing back? Go one step colder on the plugs? Reduce the boost by a couple pounds?

I have messed with turbo cars the last 5 years before getting this Camaro. Race gas does wonders, or if you have the fuel system. Tune it to run on E85, it is poor mans race gas.

 

Tire spin is notorious for presenting false knock during first gear, as normally if it is in fact false it will straighten out throughout second and third, then WOT will show no knock at all. I would check the obvious stuff first; bad engine mounts, bad trans mount, make sure the downpipe isn't hitting into anything, make sure the driveshaft isn't hitting into anything, make sure the converter isn't banging, etc.

 

Well I think I found it and have no idea why i didnt notice it before. If you go and literly lift up on the turbo, it will move a little bit, enough that I know thats the reason for the false KR. The whole pipe assembly and the turbo will move.

I looked at this because after I got back in the car, and it was still showing KR, I reved it up in park and then I could feel the rattle, vibration. And the KR got greater as RPM's went up and like i said I could literly feel it. up to 10 degrees of retard when I did this. So I got out and started pushing on stuff and the exhaust sure was loose. But it doesnt leak ex! I have to think of how to stiffen it up. Hopefully I can get it figured out tonight as I dont have to work the grave shift for once.

 

Forget my last post. I went out and basically make the pipe rigid/rigged it. But anyways that did not help.

Rob would the tranny mounts do this even in Park when I rev it up. As to be honest they didnt look the best when I took them out. The converter bolts are on tight and so are the tranny ones. This problem is even in park so any tips on what it could be??

I can still feel it vibrating a tad when in park and reved up and now I proved its not the exhaust pipe. I stood at the engine reving it up and I didnt feel anything at all, but when i sit in the car it virbrates when reved high...3-4K rpms

 

Ok heres the Drivers side of the main mount


And heres the passenger side of the main mount


So heres my Q. Do they look bad?? The top picture you can see the gap in them is pretty bad and the other side there is no gap. The round ones look ok. But I really dont know what looks good or bad.
But I sorta remember there being a rip somewhere on them as when I took it out and was moving it the x member moved really easy.

Since new oem ones are cheep, would these work as the local parts store has them.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...30932_0_0_1277

Is that the right one for my car?? Thanks for any help guys

 

the knock attack/recovery rate wont nessecarily desensitize the KS but it wont pull as much timing and recover faster during false knock.

usually there is some knock when the trans downshifts. downshifting hard or heavy launches will help find loose parts knocking around lol.

put the timing back in and tighten up the stuff you found loose and you should be GTG

 

Yea im just gonna pick up a mount in the morning and pray that all is well. Im sure moving the tranny arround on the floor with that x-member on it wasnt good for that mount...LOL Im still new so dont jugde me.lmfao

I did toss back in my track tune and crap it is fast! Just had to let off from the KR. But at least I got to have a little fun, but this was all before I thought of the tranny mount so I wont be driving it till I get the new on it. A week from right now I better be in the 14's second V6 club

 

get a v8 trans xmember and it will get rid of that funky dbl trans mount

 

get an energy suspension tranny mount!

 

What do you guys think of this tranny mount? Looks shot to me

I really hope that is what was causeing the fause KR.

 

Yeah, I think that's bad. I'm surprised the back of the tranny is not hitting the floor pan when you launch. That's what normally happens when they go.

 

I got the new mount in and still KR. I tighted everything down I could. I even put new plugs in. I never drove it as just reving it up in the garage produced KR. One good rev to 4-5K and youll see 10-13 degrees of retard.

This is flat out pi$$ing me off. Ive went over this thing for hours making sure everything was tight. I even went as far to re-check the converter bolts, the dust sheild, and anything else I may have not tightened right.

 

free revving almost always produces knock. how many knock counts do you see?