yeah second pump comes on under boost, cold start is fine car runs about 5 minutes then dies then wont refire unless it sits about 5 minutes. the no iac isnt an issue i never use an iac on any of my megasquirt installs ive never had an issue with it. i think im losing tach signal again i had this same issue a few months ago and it went away all on its own. so im going to get a new icm and see what happens

 

yeah maybe the icm is getting a little too hot and creating an open circuit.

 

Well that wraping the exhaust was a PITA, freaking wet and not fun to do when the exhaust is on the car. But i got the stuff tight. And I started the car up 2 times and let run for 10 min and reved it up here and there. Steamed off, and wow does that starch stink. But I actually could grab the downpipe and even the pipe off the manifolds and not loose my fingerprints...LOL

Heres some pics.

Had to use a hose clamp here and there to make sure it was ok, since I only had 8 of those stainless zip ties.




This is after I let it run 2 times for 10 min, open downpipe sounds so nice!



Dont mind the stock o2 sensor its just plugging that stock hole.



didnt know if I took a pic of the IC after I bent out the airdam, and slanted the IC. It helps alot compared to where it was all at before.

 

lookin good eddi. burnout video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Mabey its just me but the car did seem to spool up faster when I drove it this afternoon.

And the engine temps were better.
No KR, but i never went WOT. The starting is still delayed when the cars hot, but didnt have time today to look at that.

 

3 Weeks from tommrow(hopefully the weathers good) Ill have some videos of the car at the dragstrip.

 

did u ever get those rims and slicks

looking good btw

 

I got the slicks but I need to drive to cleveland, about 1 1/2 hours to pick the rims up. There free i just need to go get them next weekend.

 

once u get them u need to practice ur launches with the ebrake

 

My rear drums are horrible, But you basically let off the real brake/ebrake, and floored it at the same time?? That had to take practice.

Just woundering what Rpms where you launching at when you had the under k-member set up?? about 2000-2500?

 

get new rear brake pads then, the launch is key to going fast.

when i had good brakes i could leave around 3,500 rpms when they wore out i could only get the motor upto about 2,500.

first things first do not foot brake the car in the burnout box, this will heat up the rear brakes and they wont hold on the starting line

once u stage u put ur left foot on the regular brakes as hard as u can.
then with ur right hand pull up the ebrake as hard as u can
with ur right foot u open the throttle as far as u can without the car moving.
(with good rear brakes u hsould be able to go wot without the car moving)
soon as the 3rd yellow light lights up drop the ebrake and take ur left foot off the normal brakes at the same time


this is a poor mans trans brake and works extreamly well since with good brakes u can be at wot building boost as the lights on the tree come down and u leave the line with almost or full boost u dont have to wait for the turbo to spool up once u go wot.

u can knock upto a full second off ur et launching this way

 

doesnt $59 have a "spool up mode?" thought it was like anti-lag

 

There is a spool up mode but I have no idea how it works.

But heres my guess, it just leans out the Fuel mix untill the upper Kpa value is met.

But thats just my idea of what it does.

 

as far as i know its not a real antilag mode, it just makes the turbo spool up slightly fatser then normal, and wont allow him to build boost from a dead stop

this is a real antilag system that i setup on pilsburys car, full boost @ 2,200 rpms, just activate on the line and sidestep the clutch pedal for a full out launch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpZFg_2_5xo

 

How the hel( did you do that??

 

its a feature built into the megasquirt, with it i can build full boost at 1,000 rpms if i wanted to

on his car i have it wired to the clutch pedal.and certian conditions must be met for it to go active
#1 clutch must be in
#2 tps must read more then 35% for it to go active

on an auto car i would wire in a momentary push button switch instead of using the clutch pedal switch

once the 2 above conditions are met the ecm adds in a set percentage of extra fuel,when the rpms hit a preset limit in his case 1,900 rpms it activates the first stage of rev limiting , it starts to retard the ignition timming to keep the motor from reving up.
i belive i have this set to 10*adtc
once the motor reaches 2,200 rpms its starts to randomly drop spark to cyls allowing the raw fuel into the headers.
this coupled with the really late spark timing alows that air fuel mixture to light off inside the header/turbine housing which spools up the turbo instantly

also on his car i enabled the no lift feature or i.e flatshift.he can stay wot and push in the clutch and his motor will never go over 6,200 rpms or whatever i set it for i dont recall off hand, this will also activate the antilag system so he wont loose boost on gear changes

his whole car and setup is very badass and should be faster then my 3.1

 

Wow didnt know thats how that worked. Thats pretty cool man. He still has that car/engine setup?

I had a chance to see if my tune was ok and no its not. I even recorded the 1/4 mile g-tech thing to just to see if progress was made.

Its still rich up top 5k+ rpms. Everywhere else the Afr was high 11's through low 12's

Crap man I really though I about had it together. But i did manage a 14.98@99.8Mph on that thing. Were talkin 10.2-10.8afr in those high rpms which in turn made my injector duty cycles worse then normal. So Hopefully I can get it right, only a few weeks to hit the track and I really wana make one good pass, and anything less then a 14.99 and Ill be PI$$ED off.

Just to add though it was cooler today then when I tuned it the other day. It was about 85 degrees out the other day(so just imagin how rich it would have been if I went WOT that day).

I just need to slow down and do the math on every freaking cell in that VE table thats not right.

 

at 100mph that thing is into the 13's for sure, yeah his car has been down for paint and body work for some time now, he hasnt worked on it much but eventually he will get it done. though i dont know if it will ever see a racetrack he didnt build it to race it, he just wanted a fast v6 car to drive

 

btw i think u mean anything more then a 14.99 and u will be pissed

 

Thats cool, he still have a stick in it. I would not want that at the racetrack. But it would be a blast arround on the streets.

Dave when they do trap speed at the track, do you know how many feet it is?? I know its the average MPH for the last so many feet. So if the speed at the line was actually say 100mph, the averaged MPH for trap speed would be a little less. Say 97 since its turboed. Just some thoughts.

You gotta know how it feels to wounder what the car will do in the 1/4 mile and not be able to actaully take it to the track. I hate waiting...Lmfao

 

LOLThats what I ment!! Yea if i can only manage a 15 sec pass that day, that camaros not gonna like me on the drive home

 

i forget how many ft the trap is i wanna say 330ft for some reason

yeah he has a t5 with a spec stage 3 clutch in the car, his 3.4 will make more then enough power to grenade that t5 if he really beat on it.
with the antilag and flatshift features he has being a stick wouldnt slow his car down at the track unless he granny shifted it

 

Hes got that turbo thats like mine right? Ebay one?

the last 66ft of the track is the trap speed.

 

yeah ebay turbo but the smaller 50mm version, same turbo i started out with, so it would take him more boost to make the same power as the larger turbo

 

1/4 mile time: 14.98
Trap Speed: 97
Weight of vehicle with driver (pounds): 3300


Horsepower @ flywheel = 225.02 HP

I got bored at did this on one of those dumb caclulators.... I guessed a trap speed since 100mph isnt what it would have been if i actaully was at the track..

Pills, never really gets on this site anymore does he?

 

btw ur blow off valve still isnt working


heres a video form the last day i worked on pilsburys car once the clutch was totally toast.

notice how fast his spools uup with a real set of turbo headers compared to the under k setup
http://youtu.be/2pmdwd7Qd54
also thats how ur bov should sound

 

if that was right that would mean u are about at a 85hp gain over stock
but with a 100mph trap speed that should be a minimum of 14.0 et

run the calc again with 14.0 and 100mph trap, im also willing to bet ur car is more along the lines of 3400 pounds with u in it,unles su know what it wieghs if u wieghed it at the track

mine was 3455 with me in it

 

The BOV sounds like that but when I just let off fast it doesnt. But still its blowing out of the valve as i did some testing while a buddy e-braked and floored it then lot off fast, the BOV worked but it blew open and shut making that stutter sound.

 

cant hear it in any of ur viddeos, if its making the stuttering sound u need to back the adjustment off some more, turn it to soft some more until the stutter goes away

 

The car weighed abotu 3270 lbs last year on the scale/with me in it, but I have no idea what it weighs now.

From the trap speed method it said 265Hp
From the ET method it said 245Hp

 

Ok will do, dont wana hurt that turbo

 

u should be close to 250 hp, with the turbo stuff id add about 100 pounds to whatever the car used to wiegh maybe even slightly more

 

Ok dave thanks!

Im going to go do some excel work and change those VE values. There so off. 10.7 Ave above 5000 Rpms. Also it took 5 seconds from a dead stop to make 11psi of boost today. Thats better then before without the wrap considering the launch I cant make on the road. I still need to tweek the DC of the wastegate though to help that speed up. Its like I can have boost spike and less lag, or no spike and have more lag.....

 

lol well if u want to go all out with boost control get an ams 500 lmao they aint cheap though
http://ams1000.com/index.php?option=...d=62&Itemid=65

 

Wow thats exspencive. I like the controler Its just im a little slow at tuning.

It just took me 1hr to get my excel formulas set up and change the VE tables from the results I had on that WOT log.

Man does my table look like the rocky mountains more and more as im tuneing for AFR.

 

somthing is wrong then the ve table should be nice and smooth

 

I think its because I never hit all the cells in the table when its above 100Kpa. And exspecially when at higher Rpms/WOT Remember this was a starter bin so the tables were set up in afixed way, not very curvy, really steady #'s. Ive taken out fuel constantly since I first started tuning.

I though of smoothing them out a bit and seeing if it messes it up.

Ive noticed that I always seem to take a nice curve up the VE table. Close to the same rpm and Kpa values each WOT run. You know what I mean???

 

Ok im about fed up with this BOV. I adjusted it today and it works great but only lets 4psi be built. And then it doesnt works and surges when you let off the throttle. Ive had problems with this thing since day ONE

I did replace the vac hose with hi pressure line and it started to blow off nice but didnt make crap for boost no matter how tight I made the spring.

That diapham just looks like crap in there. Also there is play in the shaft on the BOV.

Is there another BOV that wont make me go broke that will work with the adapter I have on my charge pipe? My adapter is welded into the lower charge pipe so I dont want to change that.

 

I don't think that flange is close enough to a 1st gen Eclipse flange to bolt right on.

I use the 1st gen Eclipse flange on my car with no issues, at over 10 PSIG. People say they are good to about 22 PSIG stock, then need to be crushed to hold more than that.

Too bad you weren't closer, we could see if one of my spares would bolt on, and maybe see what's up with your BOV.

 

it wont fit a dsm bov, ppl have tried
fast just buy the rfl bov and be done with it, the rfl is proven to work and it was 35 bucks

when u get it u may or may not need to trim the spring that comes with it, some ppl have to trim the spring and others have to add shims that come with the bov.

u dont even need ur bov adapter it comes with an aluminum and a steel weld fitting that u weld directly to the charge pipe after u drill a hole

btw just had to say it

" told u so" when u bought it

 

here u go 28bucks + 9 shipping ends in 2 hours
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-TYPE-H-R...item35bab5ed65

 

I know..lol

Well I just got back inside after having problems starting the car...
Long story short, for some reason the latest bin file I programmed is bad! Prior ones work. Its mind bending why its like that, but the car was going into limp mode, untill I tried a older bin and it started. So im going to look and see if I can find out why that file "died" on me.

Thanks for the link dave, i gotta get one

 

just dont put the bov on the weld fitting when u weld the adapter to the pipe.if u do it will burn up the oring that seals the bov to the adapter piece
when u get it ill help u adjust it properly

 

Ok dave.

I just figured out the tuning problem from earlier...the chip was bad. I tried another chip I had 29C256 and it worked with a older bin, so i though it was the bin for some reason, but in all reality it was the chip(a 27SF512) that was bad.

I guess about 500 burns was the max considering i probley shocked the living $hit out of it many times with static elec. and didnt even know it.

Looks like moates will be getting some more business.

 

Well why im at it I need new plug wires as mine have seen better days... im thinking of getting these, what do you guys think?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-74200/

or these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-84200/ whats the difference for 10 or so more dollars$???



Also dave or whoever can look. Check this log out. Its after I got the car up(fixed the chip problem or whatever) and the BOV to actually work, I just cliped the spring a little(theres 2 in there) and now its a nice solid woosh sound. And holds boost.
BUTI what is really intresting is I spooled up alot faster. A little over 3 seconds from a dead stop to make 11psi and actually over boosted a whole Psi and I never touched the wastegate DC from yesterday. I think it was over 5-6 seconds yesterday to spool up to that amount. Weird hu???

 

the bov was prolly leaking those greddy style ones are known to leak.even if it works now just replace it and save ursel fheadaches down the road

 

RFL is on its way

 

when u get it put som elockite on the threads for the trumpet, they like to vibrate loose if u dont get them tight enough, same for the 3 set screws and lock nuts that hold the bov on the flange

 

Man I cant believe my luck! I was tuning today as my spool up was super fast compared to before I messed with the BOV. So the last time I took it down the street and back I was somewhat happy with the boost level/and such....

I pull it in the driveway and start to save the log file, and then I hear something weird and then the car starts to run bad about 60 seconds later, this is at idle.
SO I shut the car of, pop the hood, and there is my power steering pump laying there, and my belt was off. So the loss in Volts made the AFRs change, the water pump loss raised the temp up to 210*..... The braket right where the PS pump is bolted to the heads is cracked?? WTF!

Thankfully the pump is ok, the belt is fine, and everything else but now I need another bracket to make the car run...Anyone happend to have one laying arround??? Please!!

 

the PS bracket? time to hit up PaP lol. is there a rear support bracket that wasnt installed? it attaches to a stud on the back of the PS pump and to the front ex manifold bolts. keeps the vibration to a minimum so the PS bracket wont fatigue and crack.