LOL sure wasnt on there, thats what did it then. I went out and looked at it and it sure isnt there. Crap, its just sitting on the shelf of all the other camaro stuff ive piled up. Hope I can fine one somewhere!

Whos Pap??

 

pull a part there was a bunch of Fbodys in the yard when i went there. would be a good time to pick up spares and other stuff you might need.

 

Wheres that at?? I might have to make a run there. When did you go there last?

Off hand do you know if a 2.8L bracket is the same as the 3.1L engine I have?

 

2.8 and 3.1 are the same bracket

 

cleveland west side would be the closest one. make a list a stuff you may want because its like 45min away from you iirc. it took me 30min from brunswick. i used to hit clevo east/west and crackron PAP all in one day lol. also, looks like the 2.8 s10 p/u used the same one. if you go lemme know, i need a new 7730 ecm lol.

 

Ok will do. Im going to call the few j/y that are arround here tommorow, so I might get lucky. But if not then Ill call that spot and head over there and let you know before hand.

Heres the POS bracket..

 

if you dont have one already, grab a PS pulley remover/installer kit.

 

Got one.

I got someone on the parts wanted page saying he has one so I hope that comes through.

 

if the junkyard dont have the bracket, look for an 4cyl s10 pickup, if they have one and it has manual steering u can swap that steering box into ur car and ditch the power steering all together.
as long as ur not running a 255/xx/xx tire on the front u wont have issues turning the car
i had to put the power steering back on my car cause i ran 255's on all 4 corners + witht he spool i couldnt turn the car for a damn

 

this might be useful for testing leaks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3Kqh52PC6Q

 

I need one of those boost checkers!!!

Ok after a few hours of irritaion I think I have the tune somewhat on track. Ive been dealing with some problems with the bin files acting weird. But anyways I know why its spooling up faster dave! Its that air cleaner. With it is on the turbo its slower to spool up I know that FORSURE!

I took it off so that every freaking thing was the same as yesterday when it drove fine. I put the same bin file in and everything. The car ran ok. A little KR here and there but do you think it has anything to do with it spooling up faster? I mean it really spools fast! And I actually overboosted it 1 1/2 psi in the shift from 1st to 2nd gear. Crap before I know it I was at 13.44psi. It was only for 4 rows out of about 300 rows of positive boost. But still I could hear the motor reving so fast for that split second. And I also had a little KR here and there, but nothing to major. 1-3 * of KR in a few cells.

Its weird that when I let off the gas it shows KR sometimes, and also when im WOT it really doesnt show any KR, it just shows KR when im part throttle boosting at times.

Anyways Ill try to take a vid here in a bit when the camera has its batterys charged so you can hear the boost wind up and the BOV.

 

Here ya go..entertainment. Its still not tuned like it was as im scared $hitless to go WOT through 1,2,3rd gears at this point, but I can at least go through 1st with no Kr and boost staying under 11 psi. Comand is 11psi.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3Jei...ature=youtu.be

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nft8WDIKKNM
BOV sounds better although a RLF one is on its way just becasue I hate this one.

Dont laugh at my videos too much. This boost crap is addictive

 

the air filter is to small then, u need a larger filter running that filter for an extended p[eriod of time could cause the seals to wear out in the turbo due to the high vacum on the inlet side.

if u have a truck stop with a repair center near u go there and see if they can find u an air filter u can clamp on the end of the turbo

personally i dont run an air filter just a mesg screen to keep small pebles and rocks out of the turbo

 

Ok ill check it out and see if I can find something. Does the car sounds better in that video. The spool up and blow off?

That filters so big already so im not sure if a bigger one would help. What kind of mesh did you use on yout turbo?

 

and the bov is deffinatly working now lol and if u think thats loud wait till u get the rfl (really f'ing loud) bov installed

 

it was the size of windows screen but made from metal wire not cloth

 

heya fast we need some videos like these !!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.streetfire.net/video/turb...psi_640976.htm
and
http://www.streetfire.net/video/turb...i-2_640977.htm

 

2 weeks dave and ill have videos from the track, as long as the weather co-operates!! April 14th.

 

have u practiced launching the car with the ebrake at all?
if not when u practive u want to leave the line with as much boost as u can without the car trying to move foward.
the better ur back brakes are the more boost u will be able to build on the line

 

I havent tried since the back brakes are not that good, im going to go get new front pads tommorow and I really think that the back drums really just need adjusted as I took the tire off the other day and those back shoes are no that warn at all.

 

Got some time to tune this morning after work. I found out that I was leaking vac. at the connection at the MAP sensor, not much but my inches of vac went from 13.10" to 13.88" of vac. Who knows how long thats been like that.

I think I have got a tune that will make it down the track when I go in 2 weeks. Its not the most powerful tune but it works well, and will give me a base tune for the track. I added the log of the 1/4 run only. Thank god I finally got the tuning back on track after the other day when it was basically junk!

Heres some of the stats off G-tech and Tunerpro.

Command PSI is 10.88Psi. WG Duty Cycle is conservitive to stop the boost spiking..

G-tech results 0-60mph @6.19 sec
1/4 mile=14.75@100.0Mph

Tunerpro stats 0-60Mph@6.33 sec
0-70Mph@8.03 sec
0-80Mph@9.93 sec
0-90Mph@12.18 sec
0-95Mph@13.85 sec
0-99Mph@15.02 sec

There was a light KR 1* or less for a few clicks but that went away so fast I really didnt see it and it was when it shifted through the gears.

AFR is almost all in the upper 11 or very low 12''s
One thing I did notice is its shifting higher then N/A form. Shifted from 2nd to 3rd gear at 5775 Rpms. But it sounded like it liked to be reved?

Also when its shifting the boost is dropping a bit then going back up? Any ideas there of why its doing that?

 

Yea another one of my videos...lmfao! Still 10.88psi commanded

I ran two 1/4 mile runs on my dragstrip road. This one was a 14.74@101.2 MPH. Compared to the first one where it was a 14.75@ 100.0Mph. If the weather is like it was today, this will defininty be the chip im taking down the 1/4 mile for the first pass.

Also I said 17.74 in the video @ 101.2Mph, so dont mind me I said the wrong thing.
Kr was almost no existant, only time was when shifting in to 3rd had, .2* max and went away in 3 more rows.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qrFq...ature=youtu.be

 

Nice! now you need some flyby vids!

where did you get the 100' roll of exhaust wrap and stainless ties?

 

Ebay..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380262697467...84.m1439.l2649

Stuffs holding up good so far.

I might get some fly by vids on sunday if I get a chance to drive it again. I swear I do not understand why the more timing I add the faster it gets and If I had any KR prior to that addition, it go away with more timing..lol. Im up to 20.34* @10.88Psi and it likes it! Plugs are good, KR is good.

 

thats most likely rich knock, i found some insight from a past member(bruce plecan-grumpy) describing that type. when i had my buick the timing was 26* and 24psi boost lol.

thanks for the link!

 

No problem.

Wow 26* @24psi? Well that makes sence as this car just seems to like more and more timing. Theres a hint of KR (less then .5 degree) when I shift out of 2nd to 3rd. Im going to attempt to get rid of that tommorow. This car is shifting out of 2nd gear at 5800Rpms!! Wow, its amazing how high its reving. Sounds so good when it reves that high though.

I swear this motor was just itching to be boosted since it was made with a low comp ratio, good internals(minus the pistons), and being balenced well(60 degrees)

I know a guy in town that has a 5th gen V6 camaro, heres the Car+driver stats.

2010 Chevrolet Camaro V6
0-60 1/4 mile
5.9 14.5

I raced him before from 40 to about 80mph, im ready to race him at the track.. And see if I can keep up or own his 300Hp LLT Car!

 

Mark, go with a higher stall speed, you won't believe the difference...

 

Hows the spark plugs look?

RBob.

 

Rbob, They look good nice and tan, no speckles on them at all. That sounds like alot of timing hu? 20-21Degrees @10.88Psi Afr's in the high 11's to very Low 12's

 

Rob, where can I get one? TCI Doesnt make them anymore do they?

 

The TCI one was way too high of a stall speed than you would need, and I remember them being very expensive to boot. Go with a Pro-King that you can order through Advanced Auto, Pro-King Part Number GM61HD, Advanced Auto part Number 20320002, that is their highest stall speed converter for your setup through them (I believe it's 2500-RPM, about 1000-RPM over your stocker, which is perfect)...

It's only $108.99...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1...rt-gm61hd.html

 

Thats it..100 bucks! Wow consider that bought thanks to next weeks paycheck.

Will that thing hold up for awhile?? Saying im pushing 250hp or so?

Honestly Ive never taken out a Tq converter by myself. So I just take the tranny off, and then spin the converter to get it off? Then when replacing it isnt there 2 clicks that will happen as I turn the converter to get it back on? Im a newbe at the drivetrain so could you elaberate a bit if you get the time, and let me know what all I need to do?

 

unless you are making big power and launching hard you wont have to worry much about the converter ballooning. the 2 clicks is the converter falling into place. the input should engage first and the second would be the pump engaging. im sure theres some info vids on youtube that can elaborate into this more


like this lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_nr4WQDpvw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10LTsd-hJkY

 

It will hold up fine, not to mention much better than what is in there now...

When the converter is exposed and unbolted, it will pull right off. Measure the distance of the stock one for reference before you remove it. Fill the new one up with transmission fluid, do not put it on dry, coat the snout, and install. Rotate it as you seat it, you will hear three distinct "clicks", then measure again the distance you measured initially just to confirm if your not sure if it is fully seated or not. Then hang on tight when you mash the gas (I'm not kidding)...

 

Ok guys thanks! I definitly need to get this. I didnt relize I could fine a better converter at such a resonable price.

Thanks for the vids and explination.

That link you sent Rob is the right Sta. Conv. Right? Im guessing that a 2.8L and 3.1L have the same spline and such. Its just the axle spline that is different through the years right? I just remember spline count being different #'s for 2.8L and 3.1L but thats probly the axle im thinking of.

 

Your transmission has the correct 27 spline count...

 

Ok Rob thanks!

 

The changeover from 27 to 30 spline was in 1984, but that was for V8's. If you click on where it says Camaro in the suitable vehicles section of the Advanced Auto link, and keep clicking it, it will embellish that it is for a 1989 Camaro w/2.8, as well as 83-96 S10. Not too sure why they only designate 1989 for the Camaro, but I am almost certain that all 3rd gen V6's have a 27 spline count...

Edit: The Pro-King 30 spline count is just as cheap either way...

 

the v6 transmission has no changeover, they are all 27 spline,including the v6 4l60e
nice find on that converter ive been trying to find him one for about a week now and been emailing back and forth with tci cheapest i could get from them was 250 bucks for a 3k stall

the important thing to check if u get that proking converter is that the converter is no larger then 9 3/4 inches 10 inch may even fit ( stock size is 9 3/4 inches )

also the crank pilot on the converter is smaller then the v8 units i dont recall the actual size off hand though v8 27 spline converters (9 inch) can be used with the v6 motors but u have to have somone with a lathe cut down the crank piloit


hey rob are there v8 units just as cheap? need a new converter for the iroc

 

heres the specs on that converter posting this here so i can compare it to the v8 version and make sure it has the right crank piliot for the v6

TH200C, TH700-R4, 4L60E Transmission; Lockup; 10" Diameter; 27 Splines; 0.825" Pilot; Slotted Hub; 3 Lug Mount; 9.8" Bolt Circle; High Stall; Non-PWM; Codes HB1, HB2, HA1, HK1, HZ2, HZAD ok thats deffinatly the right converter here is a v8 converter u can see how much bigger the piliot is on the v8 version

TH700-R4 Transmission; Lockup; 12" Diameter; 30 Splines; 1.703" Pilot; Slotted Hub; 3 Lug Mount; 10.7" Bolt Circle; Medium Stall-1639; 5.9" Overall Height

 

meh just downloaded there full catalog off there website there highest stall for the v8 is 2,200

 

The plugs sound like they are OK.

Stock timing is about 22.1* at 100 KPa and in the 3K RPM area (AZTY). So one would expect to be running less then what you are showing.

There are other factors involved, one being latency settings. IOW, you may not be running the SA that is being shown in the data log/calibration.

But as long as it is running OK, that is what matters.

RBob.

 

When I was running such low timing(15 degrees at 10psi, the car just knocked like crazy at mid and higher Rpms) So I guess just give what the car want it then... I guess I could pull out the timing light and see if the total timing matches up to what im telling it to do.

Total timing is 35.86 degrees under my file @3K Rpm's

Rbob what are the latency settings?? Ive never heard of it before.

 

That is a awsome find Rob! I just got some of those taylor plug wires a few min ago in the mail. So the converter will be the next purchase. I swear this car is $ pit, but it sure is fun to work on and drive.

Since I would have to remove the tranny, what is the easiest way to beef up the tranny without going broke? I know you guys linked up some shift kits and such before but Ive never attempted to rip into a tranny before and really forgot what is what on the kits. Might was well just save the few bucks up and do the whole tranny/converter at the same time as im sure its not fun to take the tranny out.

 

u dont have to remove the trans to install the shiftkit but i prefer to remove the trans and install them so i can turn the trans upside down so the valve body is ontop.
when doing that u just have to carefully look at the pictures in the instructions since they show u were everything goes as if u r looking up at the valve body from underneith it.

u will need 1 oe 2 special tools depending on what shiftkit u go with and those will be snap ring pliers, but u can also use a small pick and flathead screwdriver to remove and install the snap rings carefully

 

$59 doesn't have spark latency tables.

 

converter
shiftkit
corvette servo
trans cooler

is about as far as u will get beefing up the transmission without getting into replacing internal parts

 

The latency table makes up for the delay in the ignition control module. This delay is caused by the filtering of the signal from the pickup coil. It can/will vary as the RPM varies. Here is a thread that explains it:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ncy-table.html

Note that within my posts the SA was lower by 8* then what was commanded. Which explains why I was 'using' up to 36* BTDC at WOT with '113 heads. This is where it ran the best. But in reality the SA was at 28* BTDC at WOT.

I didn't care about absolute values, I just gave the engine what it wanted.

RBob.

 

If it follows the $58 mask, there is a single latency value. A remnant of the DIS systems $58 was originally used on.

Another something that should be changed in $59...

RBob.

 

Yes, I would like a full latency table as well.

So how would one use the single latency value then?

I wonder if I should have adjusted that to get commanded idle timing and actual idle timing to line up, instead of adjusting offsets...