I just checked it out and the bearning looks nice and shiny, silver. No bronze color at all. Those bearings are just like the cam bearings..lol. The seal looks fine also. And the torq conveter shaft looks basically what it looked like when I took it out of the box.

You think that the glitter stuff is from the bronze in the TC?

 

yeah its just like a cam bearing

do u have a coffe filter? pour the trans fluid into a jug witht he filter used as a strainer and see whats left in the filter

i dont belive there is anykind of bearing material like that in the converter, though there are a few of those types of bearings inside the transmission

i would drain the trans and save the fluid and do the same thing with a coffe filter and see what gets stuck in the filter

 

Ok will do but that glitter stuff is very very fine, almost like dust. And its definitly non magnetic. I was just told my another guy that if you see a redish glitter in your fluid and had that chatter sound that it is a good chance that the converter was shot. Unless its the syncros in a manually tranny which i dont have.


Wow that alot of stuff in the TC. Thanks for the pic

Ill filter the stuff or at least try to and let ya know whats going on. Thanks!

 

yeah i firmly belive ur convertyer was bad out of the box, it happenes from time to time

 

Yea, just my luck! Ill get the new on in on friday, again. At least its easy taking the tranny out and putting it back in now. Races are on saturday and its suppose to be 65 degrees and only a 20% of rain. Man I hope this works out.

 

were u able to run the trans fluid threw a filter?

 

Man I could barly see the crap in the filter so I gave up after 15 minuets of messing arround, its like dust but dark orange/red sparkles when i shine a light on it. Like copper, brass, bronze.

I talked to Dana from Pro Built trans again, and he said def. could very well be the converter. Im just still worried about my trans.

 

if the particles are that fine i wouldnt worry about it, during normal operation o fthe trans u will get some bits of metal and clutch disk in the fluid which is bigger then whatu tried to catch in the coffee filter.

if ur really worried about it install a new trans filter when u put the trans back in

btw u didnt do a shiftkit or anything did u?


if the trans ends up being bad drive it till it wont drive no more then put a jy trans in it.

thats what i used to do with mine till i started making some serious power, actually i didnt start building my own transmissions till i actually grenaded a 700r4 in the shops parking lot practicing my launches.

i scattered parts of the case and some parts of one of the drums all over the parking lot,needless to say about 8 quarts of trans fluid, my uncle who owns the shop was not pleased at all lmao

 

Na I never put a shift kit in there(crap man im broke..lmfao).

I totally agree about running it till she blows. I dont want it to happen. But I know that one day its going to. Those narrow 700r4s can only take so much, as you know launching the thing and gernading it.

I gotta say though, after you got that mess cleaned up, to be able to gernade a 700r4 tranny with a car that had a stock 140hp, it had to of been somewhat funny and something to laugh at. Even though you were far from stock.

Yea I think ill change out that tranny filter just to do it. Might as well do it now so I can just turn the tranny over and take the pan off.

 

actually it wasnt funny at all. it sounded liek a huge explosion when it grenaded, and my uncle told me how lucky i was that my legs were still attached and that none of the trans parts came threw the floor of the car.

after that mishap i would borrow the transmission blanket off my uncles dragster and put them on the 700r4 incase it ever exploded again

i figured if those blankets could contain te parts comming out of an air shifted lenco trans behind a 5,000 hp motor they could contain an exploding 700r4,lol never was able to explode another 700r4 though, must have just been a bad jy unit


i will say it was the coolest way to waste 50 bucks ive ever come up with though.lol i had a deal with a local boneyard were id buy 2 transmissions at a time and would pay 100 bucks for both instead of 100 each

 

LOL 2 for 100 bucks, I need a few for a price like that. Heres some pics from the pan and filter/valve body area. Look normal for 100k miles? I put my finger into the magnet to see if there were any chunks, none. How much fluid do these tranny hold anyways, as I know ive got alot of it out, but not on purpose..lol








filter up close

 

looks normal to me slap a new filter in it and go.

while u have the pan off pick up a 1/2inch nut and bolt.
then drill a 1/2inch hole in the side of the pan were it wont hit anything and weld the nut to the side of the pan. this will give u a nice easy way to drain the trans if u ever need to pull the pan for a shiftkit install or just to remove the trans so u dont make a huge mess.

the v8 version holds 12quarts iirc, the v6 version should hold the same as the only difference is the v6 has a different bellhousing, otherwise they are the same internally

 

Thats a great idea ther on making a easy drain on it. I got some bolts and nuts in the garage. Its gonna be alot easier to weld this pan then the oil pan, Ill never forget that one as that was the hardest part of the build I think.

Ive used alot of that easy dry crap(kittie litter basically) but my garage floor is been stained along time ago, but wow does that stuff make a mess. Thanks for the tip.

 

instead of buying a shift kit isnt there a way to drill the separator plate and block an accumulator for added shift firmness?

 

be sure to use a lockwasher on the bolt so it cant back out when ur on the road.

the b@m shiftkit comes with a nut and bolt for u to install as a drain plug, but i do it to all my transmissions to make servicing them much easier,since drianing it by slowly loosining the pan makes a huge mess specially when u dont have a lift

 

yes u can and i know how to do it but i dont recomend it. if u tear the seperator gasket u will have to go out and buy a new gasket or shiftkit anyways.

and while u can drill the seperator plate and block the acumulators u still wont get the tv boost valve and tvplunger mod for the increased presure


btw blocking off or partially blocking the acumulator pistons only adds to driveline shock, but it wil make the shift a lil firmer and quicker, and is often frowned apon,but in fasteddis cas ei dont think it would hurt,but then again the b@m shiftkit is only 25$'s and it comes with the tv plunger and boost valve mods

if fast wants to do a few mods ill post up the info since he has the trans out and its pretty simple to do

 

I think im gonna hold off on playing with that trans. Crap man it just looks like a huge complicated mess all I recognize is the valve body and the filter...LOL... im better at manual trannys.. I dont wana mess it up any more then I may have already.

But how simple is this stuff??

 

for the mods u can do it would be drill 2 hole sout to a larger size, and install 2 spacers in the acumulator. its actualy pretty simple,and for your year trans i think i would remove 1 check ball out of the valve body but id have to dbl check on that

 

its not that bad, expecially with all the pictures out there. i put a shift hit in a 2004r years ago, art carr had some nice diagrams. first time doing something like that and it worked well, until i threw too much power at it and wiped out the 2nd gear band lol

 

i have all the diagrams and pics if he wants to do it

 

yeah it should be a snap

 

If ya can, link the pics up dave and Ill see what I would need to do.

 

ill post them up a little later today for ya im not home right now

 

any updates?

 

Not really, putting the TC in tommrow. Leaving the trans as is for now. And hopefully getting off to the track on saturday if it doesnt rain. Still hoping for 14's.

 

i cant find the diagrams i had , u can always go on bmrracing.com and look up the directions for the shiftkit and it will show u what holes to drill and how to shim the acumulators.

at this point though i belive it be best to leave the trans alone until u know everything is working right when u get the new converter in.

after that i say go for it though, since alls u will have to do is drop the trans pan not the whole transmission

 

Just got off work so its into the garage I go. Ill update you guys and let you know if its not chattterig anymore. Im staying up till its fixed...

Tommorow is not looking good, 70 degrees but a 60% chance of rain. So im hoping that it will hold off enough to at least let me run the car down the track once or twice. The test in tune is from 10am till 8pm so just hope its not a complete rain out.

 

Update. I got the converter in and it does NOT make that sound at all. I still was seeing KR. So I re-checked the timing and it was 8* all of a sudden. I had it set in at 10* for the reference angle. So I changed the bin and also changed the Attact rate a litttle along with the Recovery rate. What is a good decrease in the Attack and increase in the Recovery?? I just multiplied them by .85 for the attack and 1.20 for the Recovery.

Now I never really went WOT but once and I actually had wheel hop and this was @ 5mph or so when that turbo kicked my butt. Ive never had that car do that before. Also I went like 80% throttle once and had under .5 degrees of KR show up and then go away, then every time I shifted into another gear it did it again. But never much of anything. More like .1-.3 degrees of KR. Plugs are good still. That 80% pull was about 10-90mph

Im am going to attempt to run a street 1/4 mile in a bit. If I see over 1 degree of KR im letting off and coming home for the night. Something has got to be rattling somewhere. But this is nothing compared to the 10 degrees of KR I was seeing with the reference angle wrong and that old bad converter.

Still hoping to race tommorow if the weather is good(no rain) Well see how it goes and if it rains theres always next saturday.

 

Anyone wana check this out and see how bad it is. The SA timing is less but its ok for the track if it doesnt rain on the first pass?? G-tech said 14.62@100

 

timing seems a little low to me but if it works for you its all good

need to include knock counts, im thinking you are only getting 1 or 2 counts? not bad

videos!!!

 

Well its raining today, no dice. May go to a different track tommorow after work, if it doesnt rain. This other track isnt nearly as nice but oh well..

Also I finally welded on that cut out. I hate clamps on exhaust. Sounds good though, the cut out is basically under the drivers seat. So I can take it off at the track without a jack....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2Fsu...ature=youtu.be

Id take better videos but I had no one to record it for me. Oh well Ill have a video taper person tommorow at the track if all goes well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zs5bC...ature=youtu.be

For the attack and Recovery rates...how much of a increase/decrease is too much????

 

I like this old siggie better...

 

I like that sig too!

Hey guys which knock attack and recovery am i suppose to change the one on the tables, the scalers or both??? I only changed the one on the tables.... Sorry im lost on this one

34blazer when I see knock counts it goes from say 124 to 224 in literly one step on the log??? Is that weird or what?

 

sounds good,while u got rainined on im in the middle of a blizard , 6 inches of snow on the ground and it just got really bad out visability is down to about 25ft when ur driving

figures we would get the biggest snow storm of the year on my last day of moving into my new place lol

 

wow thats not right at all, id be nervous with 3 counts let alone 124-224.

 

It literly skips from a number to a much bigger on. in one row on the datalogg.... but like Ive said before the plugs are great never have I ever seen a spec on them. I donno its wieird.

 

That will happen during a burn out, seen it all the time w/$58. Did you raise your cut-on point for the ESC detection in your bin w/the new stall speed converter? Where is it currently set (what RPM)...?

 

I know the OP already has a new torque-converter, but I noticed that there are few options available for 60* V6 automatic owners.

Would a 4th-Gen stall converter work?

http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...Converter.aspx

I honestly don't know, but I just wanted to throw out the option. And, if it does work, you now have another option...MAYBE.

 

Its set as 1800rpm as the cut off for ESC retard increase?
And the other value is RPM filter time consistant which is 16 Rpms.
I dont see a cut on point

 

Rob I see it now the hight threashold to enter is 1200Rpms and the Low threshold to exit is 1050rpms.

 

Set it to 2800-RPM, as this is what most Syclone/Typhoon guys do because false knock is extremely common with an essentially light load. What this does is make the knock sensor blind to the RPM under that setting, this is why we set it based on the stall speed we have, because under the particular stall speed you are running you aren't in boost...

 

Ok rob Ill get it done. Thanks a ton for the help. Going to the track here in a few hours. "should" be a fun day.

 

You can raise it in incriments if you like, as 2800-RPM isn't set in stone, it's just what most chip burners of that code will normally target because of the particular range, as boost is essentially low, if any at all, in that range. Did you practice launching off of the foot brake? Once you stage, hold that brake down as hard as you can and give it throttle until you feel it wanting to break loose, then back off slightly and release just before you see the green...

 

I did practice the launch with the foot brake. I really like it when i have the ex. cut out open as I can hear when the turbo is starting to spool much easier. Ill be back on later tonight and let you guys know how it went.

 

The jump in counts is normal for the $58 code. It is one of the rare ones that has the full knock counts value being placed into the ALDL stream. Most only place the upper or most significant byte into the data stream. Which is why with those you can get retard but the counts don't change.

With $58, every milli-second of knock reported is 64 counts.

The knock attack and recovery tables:

RBob.

 

Ok Rbob that makes sence. If 64 counts is in one millisec does that basically mean one count of knock for a normal(say $88) Bin log?? If so I feel better as I would only see 1-3 counts of knock when I recorded it yesterday, and that was 0-90mph. Ill get rid of that though as I added timing and its starting to go away... up to 20* at 10psi but it seems to like it once again.

 

This will give you a visual...;



"When knock is detected, timing is pulled out at the above rate, versus the RPM shown above. So if you have knock detected at 4800 RPM, it will pull timing out at a rate of 0.36 degrees per millisecond"...



"Once detonation is not sensed any longer, the timing recovers at the above percentage per second. Notice how slow it is at higher RPM"....

http://www.nwstp.com/forum/chiptable.asp

 

In $88 it takes about 4 msec of knock to see one count. By only using the upper byte of the counts, it is being divided by 256. So 4 * 64 = 256 to see that one count.

Can also do the same thing in $58 by only using the upper byte of the ALDL stream. This would be a change to the data stream definition file.

RBob.

 

Made 3 passes this afternoon, and spun everytime from the line but got a 14.37@97mph as a best for the day and I also had a passenger to watch the KR for me. Car is fast and im loving the attention im getting from other racers. Once I get the video uploaded on youtube ill link it on here for you guys to see. My 60ft times were horrible!!

I wont go back to racing untill I get the slicks mounted and balanced as these passes were just with the ex cut out and on street tires. Also this track I went to is horrible. Ive never went there before and I definitly wont go back. Im spoiled with Summit M. Park.

 

Heres one. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeuz8Im_vlg This was the best pass


60ft was 2.20 sec
1/8 mile was a 9.30@74.9mph
1/4 mile was 14.37@97.27Mph