i was actually working on a new thread so my old one could be pulled down.

theres now about 6 turbo build threads on the v6 section so i was making a post with the basic info and parts list and then was going to link everyones build threads

the ebay afpr work just fine u can tap into the stock return line setting the presure higher on that one will override the stock fpr , just unhook the vacum line from the stock fpr

heres a cheap one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SILVER-JDM-F...item3cc53c74fb

or u can use a 2-1 or 3-1 fmu so u wont have to change the tune , with the afpr u will be raising base fuel presure which will make the car rich untill u retune it

my favorite trick is to buy an 12-1 fmu then use a bleeder type boost controler( cheap ebay manual boost controller) to control how much psi increase i get from the fmu thereby making the normally fixed 12-1 ratio adjustable


with the megasquirt i use the boost control tables to control a soilinoid to control the signal to the fmu therby making the presure rise ecm controled
can also do the same thing with the pwm output
u could prolly do the same thing with ur egr tables and erg wires

 

hey fast if u think ur out of injector check out this datalog from my 13.00@105mph run
140.3 duty cyle

man i was really pushing that thing at the time before i installed the larger injectors

the blue line down the center of the graph pic represents were i went wot, on that pass i launched at 2500 rpms and 0 boost but if u look how fats my converter flashed and boost came up it was instant,also shifted @ 6,800 rpms


the stuff to the left of the blue line is my burnout

 

heya fast i found u a posi with gearset, trying to find out if its a torsen,eaton or auburn unit, comes with 3:73 gears

he didnt give me a price but i did message him back and told him a used gearset is only worth 25$ and depending on what posi it is thats between 50-100

let me know if ur interested and ill get u his cell number so u can text him

 

Yea im very interested!!

 

ill get some more info from him and then pass his cell number along to ya

 

Ok thanks dave!!

 

turns out its a 26 spline auburn out of a 87 f-body so it wont work but if i want the 3:73's u could prolyl snag those really cheap

 

See how cheep he'll sell them for if ya can. Its better to have them then arround the shop for when I can get them in there.

 

if u buy them ill help u get them installed its not very hard to do but u need to pay attention to detial when doing it.

the tools will prolly be the hard part

u will need an impact wrench, pretty sure u dont have a bearing seperator or press to press the bearing off ur current pinion gear so u can get the old shim out but most shops should have one and they should only charge u a few bucks to press off the bearing and press it back on

 

Ok, I dont personally have a bearing seperator/press, but I have a buddy that has one. A friend from the racetrack, so at least I would have the tools to do the job. The abilities are questionable as I've never done it before...lol

 

the hard part is knowing how to shim the rear to get the right pattern,and not to put to much preload onthe pinion or carrier bearings.

other then that its about as hard as taking the valve covers off the v6 lol

i can walk u threw it pretty easily

 

Ok thanks dave. I think gears like that would help a bit, right now im trapping 98-99mph or so at 4975-5k rpms at the end of the 1/4mile

 

going from 3:23 to 3:73 will raise ur rpm about 500rpms

how good is the bottom end on ur motor? if its anything less then great condition id have to recomend u stay with the 3:23's or 3:42's so u dont start reving the motor to the 6,500 rpm range once u start going faster

lmao before u know it u will be turning 8,000rpms like me, btw 60*v6 sounds badass at + 6500 rpms

 

lol heres one to 7,400 rpms, i have datalog somome were with the motor turning 8,600 rpms witht he 4:56 gears and t76 turbo

 

Well I dont know how good the bottom end is on my car. Its stock, Its got 110k miles on it... so its a coin flip I guess.

Seems like the more boost I feed it, the higher she likes to rev. 5900 from 2nd to 3rd. And yea that damm motor sounds sweet the higher it revs thats for sure.

7400rpms is high. Wow thats amazing. you had a rebuilt motor the whole time you reved it like that?? Right....

Your map was 156 or so in that log?? As in 156kpa?? Thats some low boost levels. 8 psi or so? But on your set up 8psi was like what mine would need at 18psi...lmfao

 

took originally 250,000 mile 2.8 to 7k a few times, most of the high reving was done with the 3.1 though but it wa sa stock rebuild on the bottom end, just used good parts

like king engine bearings, and modified the oil pump,and really good piston rings

with 100k if its been taken care of im sure it can handle some 7k rpms, it dosent knock on startup or anything does it ? whats the oil presure like when its warm?

 

i would switch ur oil though, i recomend either castrol stright 50 sae oil or rottela-t 15-40
i ran those oils exclusively in my engine and still do to this day

rottela is really good for hyd flal tappet cams
and the castrol i just had an unlimited supply of since its what we ran in the alky dragster so we always had 20+ cases of it on hand

 

yup only need 9 psi to run in the 12's with the 60-1 turbo (61mm)
i credit that to my head porting,everyone else that has gone this fast as needed about 15-16 psi of boost to do it,and those guys have 3.4 engines not 3.1's

 

Na it doesnt knock at start up. The oil pressure is id say.. 35-40 psi at idle. Obvously its goes alot higher then that when its reving. Closer to the 60-70 psi when im on it/higher rpms.

Ive just been useing ole 5w-30 in her. Ive had the car since 33k miles were on it. I beat on it at times but have always taken car of it. The routine matenance.

straight 50w oil in the car? Isnt that stuff super thick?

Happend to have that t60-1 turbo... wana trade?? lol

 

yes it is very thick but turbos heat up the oil so its a good thing,it will cost u a few hp but i belive the added protection is wworth the 5hp loss

u dont have to use the 50 wieght but i suggest u switch to the rottella 15-40 its about 18 bucks a gallon napa and most places sell it, and stick with genuine ac delco filters

yes and NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

when ur ready to upgrade formt he 57 get an ebay gt35 for about 230 bucks

 

Ok dave thanks again on the heads up on the oil and such. Im due for another oil change since its been almost 500 miles since that head gasket accident..LOL.. I just want to make sure everythings ok in there.

Well when I get the exhaust set up diferently, get some posi, other supporting stuff and then Ill want a gt35 im sure of that! This dammm boost is addictive!

 

i just snagge du a set of 3;73's for 30$'s + shipping if u want them pm let me know and ill hook u up with his cell number shipping should only be 10 bucks since the gears will fit in a flatrate box

 

well did u get into the 13's today?

 

Nope....14.00's.
I did get the 60ft times down to a 2.12 at the best, launched at 2400rpms. This is still the same tune Ive used from last week.

If that turbo wouldnt let off like it did shifting from 2nd to 3rd, it would have easily ran a 13.8-9's. I know it.

Seem like its a ittermitten problem that I loose boost when I shift gears..... Sometimes it does it and other times it doesnt. It just figures that when I dont loose the boost I have a bad launch, so my times stuffer.


Ive gotta figure that thing out. As im so close to the 13's its not even funny.

I really didnt try to launch very hard as it was a points race and wanted to get some consistant runs. Which for the most part they were.

Wednesday or next friday I plan to hit the track again. if I go on wednesday it will be with street tires probly, so im in the stock class and can woop on some ppl..lol

Ill add some slips on here later, Since I just got home.

 

Best and worst slip of the day when I had a good run. Both of these slips, I was loosing boost when the car shifted gears, down to 8psi then right back up to 12.5psi.

This slip has some wrong numbers on it, but the 60ft and 1/4 time/speed is correct. The 660 is the 330 ft time on that slip. The bottom slip is all correct.

But the 3300ft time was 6.2 on the faster pass/the worst 60ft time, and the 330ft was 6.0 on the slower pass/bettter 330ft time. If it wasnt for that boost loss id be in the mid upper 13's I know it as I bet im loosing 2-4 tenths in the 1/4 because of this problem



A better launch, 2400rpms, but the boost loss was still there and hurt me in the top end of the track.

 

If you look at the top slip the 1000ft time is actually the 1/8 mile time. That was the best time Ive ever seen so far.. 8.89@80.06Mph

My best 1/8 time this year WAS a 9.08@79.2mph on a 14.03 pass.....

WTF I need to get the boost loss fixed asap as this 1/8 mile time is screaming 13's

Ok ill stop posting for now, im just reviewing data and its ticking me off.

 

Well ya learn somthing new everyday...don't use a small psi wastegate spring and exspect it to be able to handle 12-13psi of boost reliably. Thanks project89 for opening my eyes on that one.

 

np man its actually nice to be helping somone who listens to what i say instead of doing something else and wondering why it dosent work after i told them it wont work lol

 

Yeah, I had a similar issue, the wastegate was actually being pushed open by exhaust pressure. I added more sprigs to take care of mine (internal wastegate), but I think I need to add more now. :/

 

The new one is coming 15psi, the one you linked dave, so with my pressure loss Im hoping that spring will be closer to 13psi at the min pressure. Then ill just keep the weak spring I have now, for low boost applications. Only took 5 min to swap out the one in it. Sometimes I wish I lived closer to californ. Since it seems like thats where all the parts I buy, comes from.

 

I finally got on it and did a boost leak check...LOL man that thing didnt hold crap for psi. I could hear it hissing and found one leak, and now im just waiting for my patching material to dry. Then off to the next hole...lol. I should have done this months ago but was being lazy. Im sure im loosing out on hp with those leaks.

 

All the recent talk has me itching to finally do my
"All Stock" turbo build, that is if I can keep the GF from bleeding me dry so I can get the big part of the bill the turbo bought, the rest will be cake.

 

Awsome! I know the feeling with the GF thing. Thats what got me doing this turbo stuff...seeing threads on it and finaly I just said #$%@ it! Im doing this now.

Man I shot off the end of the rigged boost leak test thing I made...Like 20 ft shot..opps a little too much pressure. I was testing the single sections at a time and the one up to my TB is only 2ft long. Doesnt take much to get over 15psi in a hurry....

The BOV was opening also when I tested it but didnt really look at the psi as I found the leaks before that. Any Idea what the psi should be when the BOV releases?

I found only 2 leaks in total. But they were leaking good! So there patched up. I figured there'd be more considering how fast I went from 15psi to 0psi(took about 2 minuets to drop to nothing). I guess those pin size holes do leak alot when under boost.

If I get time tommorow Ill hook it all back up and test it again. Ran outta time for the day.

 

the bov is opening becuase u have no presure applied to the top of the bov

i didnt relize u had the refrence line for the boost control hooked to the turbo outlet it should always be hooked to the intake otherwise u will get a 1-3 psi boost drop

 

Ok well Im going to put the turbo stuff back together(since its leak free now) and run the reference line up there(the back of the intake). I just ran the reference line to the turbo because it was such a short distance and kept the engine bay somewhat neat.

 

^ Could poke ya a hole in the throat behind the TB where it still slants down kinda so you can fish any chips out to make it about a ft shorter.

 

Opps I need to remove shims.....lmfao..read me and actually do the math on the excel print out datalog.. from 0mph to 100mph in 12.54seconds

And yes I wont do that again as I was truly maxing those injectors out, but didnt relize it at the time.

After I fixed the leaks and retested it, I ran that reference line to the back of the manifold, And I had to use slightly smaller line but it wasnt too small. So I took her out without the boost controler active.... The first time I just gave her helll to 70mph and saw it made 12-13psi of steady boost!! I was like WTF.

So I then cooled her down and proceeded to take her up to 100mph+ with a passanger to carfully watch mainly KR and AFR. Also telling them if I see 15psi Tell ME!!!

My buddy said the AFR was fine and that the KR was not there as I told him you may see a .0x degree of it so dont tell me when you see that, only when you see 2,3,4,5 degrees exspecially once we get going.

Well the run was something to say the least. Man I went 0-100mph in like 12.4 seconds and eased into the throttle at first. Boost was up to 15psi and if you look at the log, nothing looks bad EXCEPT the injector DC. That was bad. But it was also rich as a skunk as I guessed at the VE table and timing earlier just in case.

I will remove some shims as this log below was with no boost controler. 15psi is a little much for my injectors but DAMMM was that car smoking fast and it felt so GOOD!!!

 

lmao i told u to go slowly when u add shims,and the boost leak will change ur afr's a lil bit.
ill take a look at the log now

 

Well dave I just tossed the same amount of shims in as I had when it made 7psi... opps....LOL

 

0-100 in 12.5 seconds

ur afrs were ok even a lil rich , but the datalog was reporting 100%+ duty cyle
if u got the afrs back to 12.5-1 u have just enough injector to run 15 psi
ur afrs under boost were in the very low 11's to very high 10's ill post up a graph for u in a second
tune it to 12.5 afr and let her eat !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

wow u had a masive boost leak then
anyways see the green line i drew across this graph thats 12.5afr
now look at the afr line and see how rich it really is

 

Yea it was way rich. My asked my co-pilot..lol.. and he just said its in the 11's so I just kept going. Man that was a rush! Ill tune the afr.

Those injectors...I have no idea how they kept up now that I look at the datalogg

The leak was pretty bad, would loose all the 15psi I dumped into it with in 1-2 minuets.

Id really like to see what that run "could" have been. 0-104mph in 13.57 seconds on the road, and you see how I started the run. Car felt very strong though!

 

u will deffinatly get ur low 13 second pass now, now go back out real fast and throw the gtech in the car and take a video


now now now now now now now now :P lmfao

u will get about 320hp out of those 28# injectors i just tell everyone to go 10hp per pound as a guide for picking out injectors

 

dammit man, i cant i have to get off to work.. crap. I cant get back in her till tommorow. But damn man that car was booking it!!! It was a hell of a rush

Wednesday is a race, i though of taking the car and running the stock class, so I can get me a win. All I have to do is get .100 RTs or better. Its good practice...lmfao.

 

I forgot to mention I did that run 2 times. This was the second time. Man look how soggy rich the AFR's were in this one. Opps, there static. And the intake temp started out higher since I was driving it. This was like 5 miles of crusing after that first run that I linked earlier.

This run was on the same road but the afrs I know is why the times are different. Is that what static injectors look like on a datalogg??

Ill first jsut take some chunks out of my F77x table on the 13-15psi area then see if that takes the duty cycle back down if not then im just going to remove a few shims and see if I can get it down to 12psi then tune it if needed, since I had some bad boost leaks. As that AFR is messed up, I think, because the injectors are wide open. Then well go from there.

 

yeah there going static in 3rdgear but ur still rich, id lean it out just a tad, then drop boost by 2 psi

 

Ok man, Ill get at it tommorow hopefully. I actually like the responce of the wastegate spring on its own compared to the boost controler, seems faster and more steady. But then again I did have a good size leak.

Ill update ya as always when I get to play with the car again.

 

i want to yank the sbc out of my iroc in the worst way now.

i miss playing with the lil 6'er

 

when the injectors go static it will be pig rich

 

I suppose I should get that ebay AFPR. What are the steps to making sure its hooked up right?

Put it on the return side of the fuel line? Just cut into the hose and mount it on there? Or what?

Also I know that there is some sort of formula on how much larger the injectors will act with added fuel pressure...anyone happend to know it?
My injectors are 28lbs's so whats the added fuel pressure needed to say..make them flow like 34lbs or so ones??

Because the calculator im using I'd need 60psi with a bsfc of .60 to handle 300hp@90% duty cycle on 28lbs injectors. Is this not right??