As long as it is on a slope, it will be fine. Remember that there is oil pressure above the center section being applied downward, and that pressure is helping the returning oil to get back to the oil pan. We tend to want to assist the return through gravity, so as long as it's on a slope you will be fine. If the return line was literally an uphill battle then it would be an entirely different story. You'll be fine...

 

Ok, yea its on a good slope.

Im hoping that the other ex. flange is here before this weekend, and the couplers i bought. Thats all I need. Allso the WB o2 sensor is still on its way. But im finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel when it comes to it being put together.

I did burn a chip with the $59 mask and turned the ignition on just to see if it would comunicate with the sensors. It did, but now ive got a glitch. I hade the same problem with the $88 mask, but eaglemark helped put a pause and a silence command in the ADX to fix that, so I need to get that fixed.

 

just grab a 3inch 90 coupoler off ebay , ur going to need the room for a decent sized filter, thos elile 3/4 inch long filters would have a hard time feeding a na honda 4 banger much less a turbo 3.1.

u really dont need clamps on the oil feed or return lines they are designed not to use them but for the 3 bucks in clamps its added saftey cause if a line does pope off u will run the engine out of oil in a hurry.


when u get the car running do not boost the turbo right away
instead start the carand run it till it gets to operating temp then shut it off and let it cool
do this 3-4 times then drive the car and just barley go into boost a few times.

i have done this with every ebay turbo ive had or installed for somone and never had one blow up

also u know the rubber block on the back of the tb on the top.

ziptie that or it will blow off the tb, u can ask rob how many times it blew off on my car the first time we took it to the track. eventually i removed it and welded up the vacum ports in the tb then got a vacum block installed and ran the lines to that

the one last lil issue u may have is with the egr valve, with this type setup ex backpresure will be high and may possible push the egr valve open under boost the simple fix is to make a lil blockoff plate that goes inbetween the egr tube and intake manifold. doing this lets u keep the egr valve on the motor but effectivly makes it non operational

also u didnt have to buy a flange for the bov u chould have welded a piece of tubbing into the charge pipe that was the same size as the one on the bov flange and then just connected them with a coupler and clamp

congrats on almost being done , just be smart when u get it running and dont blow it up

 

Yea i might as well just get one of those 90* silicon bends for the Air filter.....That would work well and wouldnt look to bad..I nned a air filter also. Would a 3 inch inlet/ 6"X5" cone filter be sufficient?

I will go through the steps of starting the car up and letting it idle, and do that a few times.

DONT worrie Im not planning on going nuts on the car untill I feel a save tune. Since Im playing with that $59 code im sure it might take me a little longer then others. I do NOT wana fry my lil V6....

I do know those vac lines your talking about on the rear of the TB. Ill make sure to secure them as well as possible. Thanks for the help!!

Ive got a good amount of metal stock sitting arround thats somewhat thin, ill cut a piece of that up and mount it between the EGR and TB. Thanks for that tip also!

I just bought that adapter because I just wanted a easy fix and for 15 bucks it was worth it to me, im getting a little tired of welding and making sure my welds are air tightBut now that you said that, if I can cancel my order i will, mabey the guys got a 90* 3" bend i can buy insted...

Thanks for the Help everyone. Im not done yet but im very close to it. Just need to install the WB, do those lil tricks that dave told me about the EGR and such, weld that flange onto the down pipe, then install the piping with the couplers(bov), and run the vac lines for the BOV and wastegate. And pray it all works!!!!!!

Also I need to weld up a 1 inch pipe for the wastegate, I had some pipe but it was too thin But thats a easy fix!

 

Always remember that every Grand National and TTA came from the factory with cast parts, and they were tuned for 15-psi right off of the showroom floor. Keep your timing in check, and your air fuel ratio at wide open throttle 11.0 to start. Watch your intake temps and exhaust temps closely, and enjoy your turbo Camaro. You my friend now hold the record for the fastest DIY turbo Camaro build assembled, that was fast, and ya wonder why I keep saying that I'm proud of ya....

 

Thanks man!!! You, dave, and sixshooter helped me get this going!!! You have no idea how much you've all helped me!!!

Its not done yet but in a week..it should be ready for start up.

What are decent intake and exhaust temps..what are the High-low limits??

Im excited to get that wideband on the car! I hope it gets here soon. That place 14point7 is in canada so its taking longer to get here

 

Detonation thresholds are dependent on so many different things, and every engine is different. Exhaust Gas Temperature, will, not only give you an idea of where your air fuel ratio is, but how that particular ratio is effecting your individual engine because every engine is different. You want to keep your Intake Air Temperature as low as possible, the colder the better, while constantly monitoring everything in terms of your timing...

 

with my volvo intercoole ri would see temps aproaching 160* f at the end of a 1/4 mile pass whle it didnt detonate it was making me loose power. u should see about 20* higher then ambient air temps with that ebay intercooler

 

Well i got those colder plugs that dave recommended, gonna pick up some 93 octane fuel, and I hope that helps me, while im tuning it a little at a time, while babying the engine.

When im logging, spark knock is detonation correct?? Ill monitor the timing, AFR, spark knock, and basically everything i can to make sure the cars ok.

When I get the chance to actually do a start up, I was thinking i could disconnect the charge pipe from outta the innercooler to the TB, so that I can check all the lines for leaks, and not have to worrie about tuning untill i know everything is ok.. Id just toss the 1bar map on and the $88 file for that since there will be no boost. This IS ok right???

 

... not too bad. Then again though, it's nothing a little alky injection won't be able to fix.

 

ok thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Don't worry about that, you don't have to disconnect the charge pipe, your not going to make any boost pressure at idle... even if you rev the engine, you won't see any significant boost pressure (if even any) unless the engine has a load behind it (in gear).

 

Ok, thanks rob!
Well I cant play with the stuff again till friday...

But hopefully everything gets here by then. And i can finish the little things i need to do. Mabey start it up on sunday or the weekend after. Thanks again!!!

Oh yea I almost forgot.. That BOV I got has a soft or hard adjustment on it..Should I mess with that, and if so how do I?
Is that just for a soft or hard blow off?? Fast throttle blade closeing...

 

do not unhook the chargepipes at all u can over speed i.e redline the turbo like this. limit max timming to 18* with anything more then 5psi and 24* for 1-4psi this will give u a good baseline to start, u should be able to get 20* under boost but start small and take lil steps while tunning. get ur afrs close then add a degree of timming then log look for kr and check afrs etc

 

My base timing is set high.17*, from when I ran it N/A. Should I go back and lower that to 10* or less, or does that even matter since I can tune that tunerpro...

 

As long as the engine hot cranks OK (will find out this Summer) then leaving it at 17* BTDC is OK. The GM V6 distributor can handle up to -10* of SA from the reference point. Which means that the absolute minimum at-crank timing is 7* BTDC. (base of 17* minus the 10* allowed by distributor).

Start off with the $59 code and the 3-bar.

RBob.

 

Subscribed.

Lots of good home-grown ideas here with lots of good advice from people around the board. I'll be hijacking some of your ideas for use on my stuff soon enough.

Keep up the good work.

 

Ok thanks Rbob on the base timing advice.

Didnt get time to do anything today, I just was looking up some info on my ADX file for $59, Im getting a glitch when datalogging...I had the same glitch in the $88 Adx file but eaglemark fixed it up for me. So I hope that I can get that straghtened out before I get to actually do a start up on the car. I need to still do the pin out on the TCC on the ECU, but ill get to that when i install the WB sensor...

I did secure those vac lines on the back end of the TB, so they dont blow off..LOL it looks rigged but it will have to work for now, and I also got a thin plate and blocked off the EGR valve at the TB.

Else then that im just waiting for the last few items, mainly the WB o2 sensor, the canadian post has horrible tracking info!!!

 

i think u need this turbo

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Airesearch-M...31507291096164

lol its so cheap im actually bidding on that im sure ill find something to put it on

 

Does this look like far enough away from the turbo for the WB o2 sensor?? Thanks!

 

go another 6-8 inches away .it would work there but it may overheat

 

Ok it will be on the vertical run then.. is that ok?

 

A lil big for me..

 

thats fine just keep it to the outside of the bend water will drip down the inside of the bend

 

Ok thanks! All i need to do is weld in that bung, get that wide band controler i have set up and in the car, and just put the couplers in and BOV and I should be ready to go..
Oh ya should I keep that o2 sensor on a angle?? Like a 45* compared to the pipe?

 

90* to the pipe is fine

 

Ok thanks!

 

just to throw in my $.02 make sure the connection from the UEGO to the harness is away from extreme heat and water. theres a resistor in the actual plug that controls how much the UEGO heats up(or something like that) and if it gets wet or too hot it will most likely short out. I just found out the hard way when i took my car thru the car washwater got in there somehow and the sensor went kaputski. when i replaced it i found green tracing from the contacts all inside the plug. i thought i had it tucked away enough on the original install but the water found a way in, somewhere.... also, bosch says not to cover up the connection either as it can also have a negative effect on the cooling of that resistor....

 

I ended up getting the SLC-DIY2 kit from 14.7 I had to make all thte wires and connections myself. So I just followed the directions and such. Its really long..the wire.
Thanks for the tips man, ill make sure to keep the connection far from heat and constant moisture.

 

Mark, not sure if you are planning on running a/c, but since Dave's car is out of commission, lemme know if you need a heater box w/blower motor and wiring. For a gasket, all you need to do is get some thin two sided tape over at any auto parts store, line up the box where you want it, then sheetmetal screw it into the firewall...

 

rob i still want that heater box

 

Well dave had dibs on that heater box.

I did get the o2 bunge welded up, the Intake temp sensor bung welded up. Also the vac line from the side of the wastgate into the port on the turbo finished up.

I wanted to get the o2 sensors wireing down though. Tommorow I have the day free to do this. I did some digging and would the C21 pin be a 5vt source to wire the Wideband into??? It has the outputs on the controler to do so.... Just waiting on a few couplers and wireing up the wideband, thats all ive got left.

Also the output im looking at useing is a 0-5 vts analog output??? Thats what i need to use right???? On my 7730 ecu. I see a linear output as options on this controler...Im thinking thats the output to use??

Although i did not weld up a wastegate discharge tube yet....I need to get that done sooner or later before i make boost and blow off the hot gas into the engine bay...

 

Dave has dibs lol? Dave just wrecked his Iroc, didn't you Dave...?

Just let the wastegate vent in the engine bay like Dave's old setup...

 

... remember the regulator that we picked up at the junkyard Dave?

 

yea thats about what my wastegate is gonna do for a bit

I want the heater box!! I just didnt wana step on daves feet over the deal.

 

yeah i wrecked my iroc buts its wither getting fixed or im buyinig that 92 rs. im still going to need it either way

 

All that needs to be done is install the BOV(adapters not here yet) Put couplers on the IC in and output, Wire up the WB o2 controler(the NB and WB are already installed and connected) Add a vent to the pass side valve cover, put the colder plugs in, gas, attatch laptop, and add me in the car!

Heres some pics.



Ugly looking but ill paint it up when i know it works ok. that metal coupler on the charge tube is just in place of the BOV adapter till it gets here.

 

u dont need the bov to drive the car, if u have everything else ready to go u can start tunning it till the bov comes. if it wa sa stick id say wait but u have an auto

 

Yea that make sence since im not really gonna make boost much for a bit till i get the idle tables down. And by then that part will be here. Well tommorow I might have to just go get some 93 gas and the cold plugs and see what happends.

I do need to run a 12vt for the controler, heater, and a neg. for the ground and heater, but that wont take long at all. So that I can make sure the AFR;s are in check.

 

Well the car does run!! I just started it up for about 5 minuets till the gas fumes gagged me... I need to adjust that bin for smaller injectors or the VE table because its so rich that i didnt get a chance to let it warm up and make sure the oil lines are working fine. The exhaust sounds good though so i must not have any leaks!!

 

Awesome! Throw up a video whenever you get the chance...

 

Will do it will just be from idleing but ill put one forsure!!!

My WB is just a desplay for now...not hooked to the ecu. But im getting 10.5-11 AFR at idle.. and you can tell thats right with the gas fumes!!

So i need to correct that!

 

Yes, no O2 correction during Open Loop warmup. Which bin are you using...?

 

Im using a $59 startup bin. Its for 33lbs injectors.

Im seeing no knock thats for sure, its just really rich, I just went out and made it a little better but after 5 min and the engine temp was 160 the highest AFR was still 11

 

Who's bin, and for what size engine? ECM's will normally have up to a 6% margin for O2 correction, so when you finally reach Closed Loop let me know what the INT is reading...

 

This bin is forced into open loop.. temp set at 151 c# I though i could tune idle and part throttle with open loop using the WB sensor, once i get that linear output into the ecu.

Is from code 59..the bin for 33lbs inject... 3.4L engine

 

3.4 or 4.3? I found a few bins on Code59.org for the 4.3 engine w/33lb injectors...

 

I made a typo..you are right its for a 4.3L
with 33# inj.
stock heads
stock cam
stock turbo
22 PSI Boost

 

Your not too far then, just a little tweaking in your fuel and you should be good to go...

 

Well im gonna change a little in the idle cells and see if its better..
About 13-14AFR at idle ok??