thats right im thinking of something else on i belive when there swapped they hit the motor mounts, somone tried it before and for some reason it wouldnt work

 

Now that I'll believe. I was going to use two of the one side that is more or less a log and mount it on the other side to get it facing to the front. Then take the same type manifold and cut off the outlet and weld it on the other end making it to face forward as well. then cap where I had cut the outlet off. I've welded casings and it's not too hard with a oven and a junk head.

 

I'm going to be using carb on mine when I take the turbo plunge. Any suggestions on a carb?

 

if u use a carb u need to use a holley 4barell with mechanical secondarys
vacum secondarys wont work enless u use a carb enclosure

 

So you don't think that a large 2bbl will flow enough? And I'm sorry I didn't mean to have hijacked your thread. It's just that there's a ton of great info on it.



David

 

i dont think theres enough info for converting the 2 barrel units so id just go with a holley 4bbl 390 cfm

 

Makes sense. We'll see what happens. It will be a while before I have the $$$ for that swap. You inspired me however, and now I've been bit by the turbo bug!



David

 

Wow this this thread is getting super long...LOL. Well parts are in delivery to my house. Ill be sure to take pics of all the godies including the shiny turbo I got.

Looks like the SLC kit takes almost 2 weeks to get here, since its from canada. Im not liking the border control for shipping..

Got a 1/2 npt bung to weld up. This should be fun...

Update. I got the bung welded on. what a PITA getting to top welded up right.

Also, where am i going to have to route the wastegate vac line, and also the blow off valve vac line?? Just hook to a t fitting?? At the back of the manifold?

 

Here are some pics. I gotta lot I gotta do tonight though.
I know that weld looks like crap at the bung, but it shouldnt leak as I layered the welds alot.
Also the flange for the wastegate.. that was somthing having to fill in the gap..but it will work fine.


IC


Turbo and wastegate. I had difficulties welding a thin pipe to the output side of the wastegate so ill have to finish that as soon as i get more pipeing.


My sad welding job...LOL that was a large gap to fill on the wastegate


My baby.. I got alot of piping to do


Not the best weld either but it will work fine, I layered the welds well as the hole i punched in the pan ended up being in the middle of the bung, so I wanted to make sure the bottom of the adapter was welded well.

 

yeah, you could swap left and right. I don't recall which way the outlets face, though...you may have issues because of that. you cannot put them upside down, though... I'd build headers or logs rather than using stock manifolds, if possible!

 

Lots of stuff...oil lines exc. But my couplers, and a few oil adapters didnt come yet... Mabey in the mail tommorow

Also got the 30lbs injectors in and bolted the motor back up.

 

do me a favor ican u take a picture of the compressor side of the turbo witht he red dust cover off it please want to see the compressor wheel

 

Here ya go dave.

 

Ok ive got some questions!
Is it ok to cut this thing? I just wana cut it so that it still bolts to the factory area but the bottom half needs to go, to clear the Inter. cool.

I didnt have much channel so i just mounted the IC as best as possible for now.



Heres some ideas how to run the charge back to the TB, just once it goes down it will angle off to the side of the airdam to meet the IC.




The biggest hole saw/bit I have is a 2'' one so Ill have to get one before I put a hole here then a 90* down then a small agled run to the IC.

 

see tyhe 2 bolt holes about 1/4 way down just cut it off below those and it will be fine, thats how its cut on my v6 car and on my iroc

can u get me the link to the auction u puurchased that turbo from please

 

Ok thanks, i changed my mind about the charge pipe, i made up a pipe with 2 45* bends instead of the one 90* one.

Heres the link to that turbo...theres nothing wrong with it is there???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-T04E-T...item3a5bcfb37c

 

Heres the charge pipe im working on, It needs some grinding and paint but its on its way, i just need figure out the fastest route to the IC. Its about 16 inches from the end of this pipe. Im thinking a 45* that i can make, over to the front of the car then a short run, then a real tight 90* into the IC.

I didnt get the t clams yet, so ya im just useing hose clamps to help me see where the routing is going to go..

And i do have the pipe for the downpipe done, but i didnt like the flange i made so i ordered one, and the things on back order till late next week!

I was tired of thinking about piping and welding so I shot this video, then called it a night. I will hopefully finish off the IC piping to the TB. I need a 2 1/2 hole saw/bit before i can do the other IC pipe. Ill get that on monday.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B88Wi...6u2DlcHB5XGFW2

 

the turbo is perfrect its a 57mm unit, reason i asked is cause i know i gave u the link to the auction i bought my turbos from, but the seller had changed the add . wanted to verify he was still shipping 57mm units for another member.

the other ebay turbo is only a 50mm so i wanted to be sure the auction was for the 57mm unit

imo the best all around turbo for the v6 would be a 60/61mm unit so the 57 is really close.the 50mm unit does work pretty good but its a lil inefficeint on the v6 , the 57mm unit will make more power at lower boost presures then the smaller ebay turbo

 

He works fast though doesn't he Dave... very proud of him.

 

I try to make progress...LOL

Is it ok to mount the BOV on a angle like my wastegate is?? Also how far from the TB can i place the BOV?

Can you guys also explain to me the routing of the vac lines for the turbo, BOV and wasegate please?

Sorry.. still a newbe and im trying my best to learn, so im sorry if ya told me the answers before....

 

...

http://www.tialsport.com/documents/w..._wginstall.pdf
http://www.tialsport.com/documents/w...bovinstall.pdf

 

Thats pretty simple. Thanks man!!

You know how theres a vent on the pas. side valve cover that conects to the stock air intake pipe.....what should in do with that hole i the valve cover?? Should I redirect that vent somewhere else??

 

Regarding the vacuum lines on my turbo TPI, I have the drivers side PCV in tact but with a check valve so no pressure is forced back into the crankcase under boost. On the passenger side I am running a breather (see picture below). Try to get your hands on a screw in type. Remember to use a check valve for your power brake vacuum line as well (some do, some don't, but I always did)...

 

Ok so just put a check valve on the PCV line on the drivers side, put a check valve on the main brake vac line before the intake, and just add a breather on the pass. side vent? Thanks again man.

I did end up getting the IC to the TB Piping finished up last night, I im basically on a stand still with piping till I get that ex. flange, a 2 1/2 hole saw, and some more bent piping. But if the rest of the oil stuff gets here today id like to finish those lines up and put the BOV in the charge pipe(i didnt do that yet, I was more worried about just getting the pipe ran.

 

You know, I met Dave about six to seven years ago over at the Raceway Park car show, and he was showing off his first attempt at the turbo setup. Came out really sweet, and I remember looking at it and saying to myself... hmm. Long story short he talked me into doing one myself, so I got my hands on a local '92 Firebird for cheap, got the turbo's, and almost went through with it. I gotta say, following your build, your giving me the incentive to finally finish it lol. Dave too, I know he is reading this build and getting the itch himself...

This is as far as I got with it years back...

 

Seeing daves/pils turbo builds on a V6 is what made me want to do this so bad. Ive been thinking of doing this for a solid year, basically since I first joined TGO and saw that it is possible to get some Hp out of this motor.

So since I think Ive learned a little bit I figured Id better do this before I dont have time, then Ill regret not doing it.

Rob, better late then never. I just love the idea of fast V6 cars

 

Once RBob's SFI-6 is released, I am going to install an LC2 into another F-Body that I have so I more than likely won't be messing around with the 60-degree V6's anymore. I need to check the garage to see if I have any performance 2.8/3.1 V6 stuff lying around so that I can donate them to this build...

 

Awsome man!!

Oh ya.. can i just route that wastegate vac line to the turbo, theres a port thats on the charge side of the turbo. Since I dont have a boost controler, im going to vent the top of the Wastegate to the atmosphere and then the lower port to the charge side of the turbo....Does that sound right>>

 

Yes, as long as it is before the throttle body you are fine. In fact, routing the wastegate vacuum line to the compressor housing will clean up the engine bay because it will be such a short line, as you can tuck the line out of the way (zippy ties)...

 

Well I ran out of free time for a few days, but i did manage to start the old return line. That hose is really really thick, it was hard just to get the barb fitting on. But i have an idea how to run the line,
It is a little difficult to get the lower part of the line(next to the oil pan to be on a angle at all times. I have to run the hose through the Acc area and be careful of the belt in the way.

But the returns hose is on up to the turbo, I havent attatched the barb yet on the turbo, and need to go back and use a little RTV and teflon tape on a few joints.

My 1 barb fitting for the oil feed line hasnt came yet, but that looks easy a cake to run that line since its so much smaller and I dont have to worrie about the angles.

I did end up buying this Item....http://www.ebay.com/itm/220945061334...84.m1439.l2649
Since it is cheeper then having to buy alluminum piping and then find a person to weld up the aluminum...I had to get this because the BOV flange to weld on that I got with the BOV is alluminum. So 15 bucks and 2 more couplers is a way to save me flustration and time...

Heres the mess i got going on right now....I didnt clamp the hose yet, and also im hoping my brass 90* is ok with hot oil?? Im in heat, vent ,a/c so I have a ton of fitting like that.



heres what i got going on out of the IC to the TB. That pipe is finished except im waiting for the BOV adapter.

 

looking good , the brass fitting will be fine just make sure the brass fittings dont restrict the flow.

also u can put the bov before the intercooler if its easier.

also if u want the bov to be loud mount it as low as possible and face it twards the ground

 

The brass fittings a little smaller then the 10AN line but not too much.

How big was the hole that you punched into your oil pan dave???

Yea id like the BOV loud!
Exspecially since its a auto and wont be going off alot like a stick.

 

Ok plan of action tommorow, since thats the last day i can work on the project till next weekend.

I will get a 2 1/2'' hole saw in the morning and put my hole where the purge tank was for the charge pipe route

Make up the piping from the turbo to the IC and weld that all up.

I also plan to coat all of my welds with that exhaust putty I have for added security!
Ill paint the pipe later when i know it works the way I want it to.

I also though of applying a coat of loctite (2 part weld) compound to the oil bung perimeter, as the top was a PITA and I want to make sure its sealed tight!

Then if I get time finish up the oil return and the oil feed(except for the oil feed into the turbo as my barb fitting isn't here yet)

 

barb fitting? u shoudl have 2 -4 an ends and then u need the brass 1/8inch pipe t

unscrewe the oil sender unit by the oil filter screw in the t then ur oil feed and sender screws into that

 

I mean the fitting that the hose goes onto at the turbo...i have the the 4an to whatever size threads(1/8'') into the turbo but the fitting that i connect the hose to that adapter hasnt came yet. I though that was called a barb fitting. http://www.ebay.com/itm/110795934672...84.m1497.l2649 Thats what i ment. Just the one at the turbo

I have the t pipe and all the fittings already for the oil pressure sensor.

Dave, how big was that hole that you punched into your oil pan????

 

i punched out the hole so my fitting droped into it then welded it, as klong as the hole is a decent size it will be fine

 

Ok its about half the size of the bung.. so about 3/8th of an inch.

 

I've always ran a PCV valve that closes when there is pressure from the plenum side. On my current car I am running a Mitsubishi PCV IIRC. For the other side I plumb it into the inlet before the turbo, just like OEMs do it. Emissions legal, no oil catch cans to empty, and simple. I've never had oil problems like people will say there will be, on several builds now.

You already have a check valve in your booster line, it's that plastic fitting at the booster.

 

i never had an issue with the stock pcv valve on the 2.8 or 3.1 motors

i also didnt connect the other side to the turbo inlet a vent works just fine
though on my 3.1 i did build a catch can and make provisions to run a line from the turbo inlet to the catch can but i never did use it i just left the suction side of my catch can vented to atmosphere, also never got oil in over 2 years so a catch can isnt even necasary, maybe if u go up over 21psi it would help

 

... since he is running a 3-BAR setup, and will eventually be running boost pressure in excess of 20+ psi once he gets his build together with his code $59, it will be a very good idea for him to use a check valve now before the PCV valve, as the stock one is garbage and prone to blow by in turn over pressurizing the crank case. It is cheap insurance. As for the little plastic thing that is found on the brake booster line, my old carbureted 3rd gens come with factory check valves in the booster line, but all of my TPI's do not. I don't even remember seeing one on my old '91 3.1 Firebird. Does yours have one already Mark?

 

I looked, and theres no check valve from the brake booster to the back on the manifold. Its just one solid big hose.

 

Definitely get your hands on a check valve for your brake line then, as the last thing you need to do is pump the brakes to be able to stop at the top end of the track when you let off the throttle...

 

Yea i dont need that...no brakes. Ill find one for it

 

Forget what I said there IS a check valve at the line going into the brake booster! I musta missed it, but i was so cold out I just ran out to look earlier when I said there wasnt one...

 

Good deal, that will save you a few bucks then. I remember my buddy swapped a stage II Grand National engine w/T76 into a late 80's Mazda RX7, and ran a straight hose w/out check valve to the brake booster (not intentional, he just forgot to run one). He took it out for a test drive at close to 30-psi with his new turbo tweak chip, and came back as white as a freaking ghost. I shouldn't even have to say why that was lol. Laughing about it now, but he was literally shaking when he got back...

 

Yea i bet it was a scary feeling running 30psi and having little brakes...

Here are a few pics of the oil feed line. Is it ok to run the feed line zip tied to the tranny cooler line??? This seemed like the best way to secure the line. And at the T-fitting, I had to aim the line down at first, since it was Impossible to but the hose on the fitting while all the fittings were in the car. So the only way I could thread on the hose and fitting was on a downward angle, so I though it would be ok since its under pressure. I put a clamp on it, I didnt tighten it too much, Theres no way even with 60+psi of oil pressure that those hoses are coming off, it was a task just to get them on!

Also DON'T mind the Oil return line as I have not routed it the way I want it yet.
I now see why its easier to put the turbo on the drivers side, The oil line!! The return is so thick and stiff its hard to get the angle I wan, But ill get it.

 

Ok heres where im at on the oil return line.

The first pic sorta shows the gap that ill have from the downpipe when its there, about 1 1/2 inches..is that ok??? I hope it is because its about the only route in which ill have a gradual slope and have clearence...



This pics shows the return line going back to the pan, it doesnt look like alot but there is a slope there. And its about 1 1/2 inches from the belt. Im going to go back in and seacure the hose a little more but its basically the route ill be taking.



Heres is the clearence from the down pipe again. I have to zip tie up the hose some more, but just wanted some input if this rout was "ok". Like I said before, I stared at the engine bay for a while thinking of how to route this hose and still have a slope, so this is the best I could come up with. And the pipe its sotra touching on the left side of the pic is the charge pipe thats running up to the TB, once i zip the hose to the rad.hose it will be about 1 inch away also.

 

Ok Im done till next week. I got the piping to the IC done up. Its not the best design, im sure but it works.

In this pic, you can see that the turbo is just a little off set from the pipe but its as good as i could get it. Im hoping the coupler is close to being long enough since its a reducer, if not Ill add pipe to the end.

Oh yea there are 2 holes becuase that one in the middle just wasnt going to work out. So I can actually just put the purge can back there ontop of the hole since thats where I had it in the first place.

One Item I still need is a short air filter, 6inches is all I have to work with if i mount it on the turbo, which is what I planed since im running out of room. Or, i could actually use that black air tube from the stock air intake...the one that had the ripples in it??? And attatch a air filter onto that.. I dont know though..Im just thinking outloud.



In this pic you can see the pipe into the IC, i have a 45* 2 1/2'' coupler on the way, since I actually planed this part of the piping.



I also filled the pipe with water after welding since i can dry it out and its new pipe...only one joint where there is just a drop of water leaking every min or so, I will layer the joints with some sealent just for added security that I have absolutly no leaks.

 

Mark, is the compressor inlet on the turbo a 3" or 4"? I know that the auction says 3" compressor inlet, but the pictures above are a little deceiving. Either way, pick up one of these 90 degree bends at the hardware store, should be no more than six inches in length from one orifice to where it turns. They're only like five bucks. Not ideal, I know, but it will at least allow you to run your air filter towards the front for some cold air until you figure something else out...

 

Great idea! I didnt think of that. Its 3inch even though it does look bigger.

Do you think that routing of the oil lines will be sufficiant? It is on a slope the whole way.