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So I bought an aftermarket temp gauge and from what I can tell your supposed to replace this little sensor/sender with it. But since I did that it’s over heating badly. So what does it do? https://goo.gl/images/dkGM9i that’s the link because the picture wouldn’t upload PLEASE HELP
While I'm not a pro... There is commonly two different Temp Sensors...
1. Coolant Temp Sensor - This is typically located in the Intake Manifold next to the Thermostat Housing
2. Coolant Temp Gauge Signal Sensor - IDK if that's the correct name but it's typically located in the driver side area near plugs 1/3.
*Your pic looks like the sensor on the driver side of my engine that sends the temp to the gauge. Does the aftermarket Temp Gauge come with a wire that was pre-terminated with its own connector or did you splice in the OEM connector and use the aftermarket sensor?
The gauge came with its own “tip” . I pulled the old sensor out and screwed in this diode that replaced the sensor. I didn’t have to splice it in just replace
Originally Posted by 92RS-HeritageEd
Hey buddy,
While I'm not a pro... There is commonly two different Temp Sensors...
1. Coolant Temp Sensor - This is typically located in the Intake Manifold next to the Thermostat Housing
2. Coolant Temp Gauge Signal Sensor - IDK if that's the correct name but it's typically located in the driver side area near plugs 1/3.
*Your pic looks like the sensor on the driver side of my engine that sends the temp to the gauge. Does the aftermarket Temp Gauge come with a wire that was pre-terminated with its own connector or did you splice in the OEM connector and use the aftermarket sensor?
I must ask the obvious also, while the new gauge read that you're overheating...
1. Is your cooling fan operational?
2. Is coolant bubbling back upinto the overflow?
3. Can you see steam coming from under the hood / coolant leaking from boiling back up through the overflow?
4. With engine running have you checked the temp with a Temp Gun?
Last edited by 92RS-HeritageEd; 08-26-2018 at 09:37 PM.
Reason: Left out a question...
I don’t know about the fan but as far as I can tell the coolant is not bubbling
Originally Posted by 92RS-HeritageEd
I must ask the obvious also, while the new gauge read that you're overheating...
1. Is your cooling fan operational?
2. Is coolant bubbling back upinto the overflow?
3. Can you see steam coming from under the hood / coolant leaking from boiling back up through the overflow?
I've been in a TRUE overheating situation and my cooling fan wasn't on (gauge pegged in the red) and I experienced both coolant bubbling back up into the overflow and steam coming from under the hood / coolant leaking from boiling back up through the overflow
So you think the gauge could be ****ered makes sence
Originally Posted by 92RS-HeritageEd
Answer those questions and we can move forward...
I've been in a TRUE overheating situation and my cooling fan wasn't on (gauge pegged in the red) and I experienced both coolant bubbling back up into the overflow and steam coming from under the hood / coolant leaking from boiling back up through the overflow
So I switch the gauge for another gauge I had and it’s still overheating and call it was being pushed back into the reservoir, The fan also didn’t click on once so I believe that’s my problem and maybe that little sensor controls the fan but if that’s the case then how do I get the temp gauge to work
Originally Posted by 92RS-HeritageEd
Answer those questions and we can move forward...
I've been in a TRUE overheating situation and my cooling fan wasn't on (gauge pegged in the red) and I experienced both coolant bubbling back up into the overflow and steam coming from under the hood / coolant leaking from boiling back up through the overflow
Last edited by Stevenmunoz; 08-27-2018 at 10:44 AM.
I'm not real up on the v6 engines, but on the v8 engines, the coolant temperature sending unit is on the driver's side of the block between the first 2 cylinders and has a single wire coming from it. The coolant temperature sensor for the ECM is on the front of the block just below the throttle body. And the cooling fan switch is on the passenger side of the block (I believe) between the last 2 cylinders by the oil dipstick. I'm not sure how the v6s are setup, but if you spliced the gauge into either of the other coolant temperature sensors, that could be your problem. If you're literally seeing the coolant overflow and boil over and no fans coming on ever (assuming that they worked before) then my best educated guess is that you probably spliced it into the coolant temperature sensor for the ECM not the gauge. Granted they should all see the same temperatures, but your splice could be causing the issues???
The gauge I have is mechanical. I don’t believe i can splice it into anything. Also the temp sending unit is the one I replaced with the diode for the temp gauge. My car didn’t come with a gauge of any kind just fuel and speed. So idk what to really do.
Originally Posted by Go Blue
I'm not real up on the v6 engines, but on the v8 engines, the coolant temperature sending unit is on the driver's side of the block between the first 2 cylinders and has a single wire coming from it. The coolant temperature sensor for the ECM is on the front of the block just below the throttle body. And the cooling fan switch is on the passenger side of the block (I believe) between the last 2 cylinders by the oil dipstick. I'm not sure how the v6s are setup, but if you spliced the gauge into either of the other coolant temperature sensors, that could be your problem. If you're literally seeing the coolant overflow and boil over and no fans coming on ever (assuming that they worked before) then my best educated guess is that you probably spliced it into the coolant temperature sensor for the ECM not the gauge. Granted they should all see the same temperatures, but your splice could be causing the issues???
If all you had was an "idiot light" to tell you that the car is overheating, then that's the problem. That sensor is a switch. It's either off or on. What you need is a temperature sending unit to put in its place so that the gauge functions properly. Your car isn't overheating, the switch has just "turned on" so that it looks like you're overheating. I'm sure that someone else on here can either get you a part number or your local part store should be able to find 1 for you.
The idiot light, wasn’t on I could see the court starting to boil and be pushed back into the reservoir, I tried putting back the sensor to the way it was and it’s still overheating so maybe I broke the sensor, I don’t know but the fan is not coming on still
Originally Posted by Go Blue
If all you had was an "idiot light" to tell you that the car is overheating, then that's the problem. That sensor is a switch. It's either off or on. What you need is a temperature sending unit to put in its place so that the gauge functions properly. Your car isn't overheating, the switch has just "turned on" so that it looks like you're overheating. I'm sure that someone else on here can either get you a part number or your local part store should be able to find 1 for you.
Please correct me if i'm wrong, but I want to make sure that i'm on the same page as you. You have now removed the diode and reconnected the wire for the coolant temperature switch back the way it was and it's still overheating and the fans aren't coming on?? I wonder if you have shorted that sensor out now? I'm hoping someone with some v6 experience with these cars hops in soon to help with which sensor you connected the gauge wiring to. Is your check engine light on the last time before you overheated? If so, what code?
I put everything back to the way it was originally and the fan isn’t coming on I’m thinking that your right about me breaking the sensor somehow. I’m going to get a new one and see if that fixes anything. And thanks so much for your help so far!
Originally Posted by Go Blue
Please correct me if i'm wrong, but I want to make sure that i'm on the same page as you. You have now removed the diode and reconnected the wire for the coolant temperature switch back the way it was and it's still overheating and the fans aren't coming on?? I wonder if you have shorted that sensor out now? I'm hoping someone with some v6 experience with these cars hops in soon to help with which sensor you connected the gauge wiring to. Is your check engine light on the last time before you overheated? If so, what code?
I'm glad that I could help. I would get a coolant temperature sending unit for your gauge as well. Don't let them give you a switch or you'll run into where the aftermarket gauge will go from cold to overheating like flipping a switch. Hence the name.
The 2.8 should only have one coolant temp sensor, and its a sensor not a switch. The ecu needs this sensor and you cannot run without it as the ECU turns on the fan (among other things) with it's feedback. So if you want to run an aftermarket gauge you will have to run it in the head or another location.
Now you have it back to normal but the fan isn't turning on. You can test the sensor for resistance@temp with the attached chart and also check the fan fuse (20A). That is a simple couple of things to get started. You can also just replace the sensor but if it you want to know or learn its a good exercise to troubleshoot.
I have replaced the sensor and it’s still overheating because the fan is not kicking on and I don’t believe the fuse blown I don’t see any blown fuses in my fuse box at all which is good I guess, any other ideas? Thank you for the help
Originally Posted by PaulyC
The 2.8 should only have one coolant temp sensor, and its a sensor not a switch. The ecu needs this sensor and you cannot run without it as the ECU turns on the fan (among other things) with it's feedback. So if you want to run an aftermarket gauge you will have to run it in the head or another location.
Now you have it back to normal but the fan isn't turning on. You can test the sensor for resistance@temp with the attached chart and also check the fan fuse (20A). That is a simple couple of things to get started. You can also just replace the sensor but if it you want to know or learn its a good exercise to troubleshoot.
Ok, next things to look at is power. At the fan relay there will be a large red wire, it should have battery voltage all the time. This comes from the fusible link at the starter. If you have no voltage there the link is suspect. If you do have voltage, you can test the fan itself a couple of ways. 1st you can unplug the relay and make a jumper wire and jump the red to the red/black wire. They are both the larger wires in that connector. The other way will also test the coil supply voltage and to do that you need to jump the dark grn/white wire to a good ground with the relay plugged in. The key must also be in run for this test. This will pull the relay and turn on the fan if all is ok. If you get this far and everything checks out you need to be certain the sensor is reading correctly. The ecm controls the ground on the dark grn/white wire when it sees the temp at or above a certain temp. Other than that check wiring for damage. If you have access to a scanner you can see the feedback from the sensor is getting to the ecm and is correct.
08-26-2018, 07:32 PM
