i found found a good deal on some wheels, i tried them on today and the fronts just wouldnt fit over the hub, it was extremely close like 1/16 maybe 1/8, other then the that they were awesome. the wheels are fittipaldi 17x8, dude had em on a 95 bmw. my question is do you think its smart or a good/bad idea to hone out that centerhole just a hair so they fit?? thanks

 

I've had it done. Just find a good machine shop and expect to pay at least $50 a wheel.

 

I just honed out the Inside Diameter of the adapters I put on last week. Took them down about 1/16th on each side or 1/8th total. Took a little bit to get there, but they slipped right on. Good luck man.

 

Cheaper and easier to get the hubs turned down, any place that turns rotors should have no difficulty.

 

True.. I guess that would make it something that would have to be done every time the rotors get replaced then. How much does that run? Im just curious, myself.

 

There was a time that I had a job which included turning rotors. The real issue is that some such machines will require removing the lug studs. Still, if I had my own used rotor machine, it's only be an extra minute of labor for me, aside from stud pressing, and an extra 5 minutes of running the machine, at most. This problem would mostly go away with a big brake conversion. Then just get one pair of 1LE hubs turned once, and this at the same time as having the 12" rotor turned off the hub. Then never again need the hubs turned. The 1LE hubs still have advantages in outer bearing size, and in crack resistance, even though they will reduce what wheel-spacer thickness you need.

 

Wow, crazy thread.

1. Are you sure these are 5x4.75" wheels? If they came off a BMW, they are probably 5x120mm. What do you plan to do about the difference?

2. DO NOT TURN DOWN THE HUBS. Do you have any idea of the loads that go through the hubs? Do you have any idea how much strength you will loose by turning the hubs down? What is the size difference between the hubs and wheel?

 

See below; a drill and a sanding drum are needed. Go around the wheel inner bore slowly; dont stop in once place; and keep the speed consistent. Once a rotor sets into it, you're done. I left it as small as possible; have to push the wheel on a tiny bit so it's > .005" If you're trying to run late model GM wheels like from a 98-up S-10, that will work. The grit will gum up with aluminum a little bit.