billet disc = rag joint eliminator
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billet disc = rag joint eliminator
my rag joint is shot, it seperates before doing its turning, leading to like 15* of play in the steering wheel before the turn begins. Anyway I want to get a billet rag joint eliminator. I figure if i take in my joint and have a piece of billet aluminum or even just some cast iron cut to the same diameter I can drill out where the holes go. Then i can install that piece at the end of the steering shaft and it will connect the shaft to the box ... it means i'll have a little more vibration in the steering wheel, but increased road feel and it can never have sloppy steering again. one less thing to fix in the future =) If you guys see any problems, have done this before, or have pointers, pls respond. thx guys =D
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Re: billet disc = rag joint eliminator
Originally posted by logikal6785
my rag joint is shot, it seperates before doing its turning, leading to like 15* of play in the steering wheel before the turn begins. Anyway I want to get a billet rag joint eliminator. I figure if i take in my joint and have a piece of billet aluminum or even just some cast iron cut to the same diameter I can drill out where the holes go. Then i can install that piece at the end of the steering shaft and it will connect the shaft to the box ... it means i'll have a little more vibration in the steering wheel, but increased road feel and it can never have sloppy steering again. one less thing to fix in the future =) If you guys see any problems, have done this before, or have pointers, pls respond. thx guys =D
my rag joint is shot, it seperates before doing its turning, leading to like 15* of play in the steering wheel before the turn begins. Anyway I want to get a billet rag joint eliminator. I figure if i take in my joint and have a piece of billet aluminum or even just some cast iron cut to the same diameter I can drill out where the holes go. Then i can install that piece at the end of the steering shaft and it will connect the shaft to the box ... it means i'll have a little more vibration in the steering wheel, but increased road feel and it can never have sloppy steering again. one less thing to fix in the future =) If you guys see any problems, have done this before, or have pointers, pls respond. thx guys =D
RBob.
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can you please please post the specs for that eliminator ? what you made it from, the sizes and where to drill the holes, what did you drill it with, and if you had it made what did it cost ? thanks man =)
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Originally posted by logikal6785
can you please please post the specs for that eliminator ? what you made it from, the sizes and where to drill the holes, what did you drill it with, and if you had it made what did it cost ? thanks man =)
can you please please post the specs for that eliminator ? what you made it from, the sizes and where to drill the holes, what did you drill it with, and if you had it made what did it cost ? thanks man =)
The other set of rivets were then welded to the disk. Need not be a full weld as there is no pressure pulling the rivets out.
RBob.
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Or there is always Borgeson joints-
http://www.borgeson.com/steeringcolumns.htm
I have never done one on a late model car, Only on my '68 Vette. Sent the entire old shaft to them and they duplicated it. This was probably 8 years back.
http://www.borgeson.com/steeringcolumns.htm
I have never done one on a late model car, Only on my '68 Vette. Sent the entire old shaft to them and they duplicated it. This was probably 8 years back.
#7
Some advice:
Using a universal or the solid disc will need the use of a slip type steering shaft. Remember the rag joint will handle a 3 axis missalignment. The other two couplers can not without binding.
I bought my slipper shaft and universal at Flaming River. The new shaft gave more header (SLP) room too.
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/
Using a universal or the solid disc will need the use of a slip type steering shaft. Remember the rag joint will handle a 3 axis missalignment. The other two couplers can not without binding.
I bought my slipper shaft and universal at Flaming River. The new shaft gave more header (SLP) room too.
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Bringing it back from the dead...
RBob, hows everything holding up with the solid disc in place of the rag joint?
I did this a few years ago and Ive always been afraid that with the camaros rubberized-body construction that possible bending moments from chassis flex might damage teh steering gear or jsut plain snap the input shaft clear off...
Anyone ever replace it with a u-joint? Ive been thinking about possibly trying to adapt one to a stock steering shaft to safely replace the rag joint.
RBob, hows everything holding up with the solid disc in place of the rag joint?
I did this a few years ago and Ive always been afraid that with the camaros rubberized-body construction that possible bending moments from chassis flex might damage teh steering gear or jsut plain snap the input shaft clear off...
Anyone ever replace it with a u-joint? Ive been thinking about possibly trying to adapt one to a stock steering shaft to safely replace the rag joint.
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I'm also curious about this. I'm very tempted to take the easy route and just replace the rubber with the solid piece (I assume the 4th gen unbalanced engineering eliminator will fit)
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Does anyone have the specs on what the spline count, and size we need for our cars is?
Coleman sells many diffrent style steering joints, from alum, to steel, with needle bearings, etc.
http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog...hp?cPath=2_114
Coleman sells many diffrent style steering joints, from alum, to steel, with needle bearings, etc.
http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog...hp?cPath=2_114
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If anyone knows the sizes, etc. offhand, I'd like to know as well. I might be possibly changing the shaft and joint when I do the new drive train and box swap. The Flaming River ones look nice, but not sure on what to get....
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Originally posted by dimented24x7
Bringing it back from the dead...
Anyone ever replace it with a u-joint? Ive been thinking about possibly trying to adapt one to a stock steering shaft to safely replace the rag joint.
Bringing it back from the dead...
Anyone ever replace it with a u-joint? Ive been thinking about possibly trying to adapt one to a stock steering shaft to safely replace the rag joint.
Last edited by 84 1LE; 09-29-2006 at 10:43 PM.
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
I think replacing your rag joint with a solid disc is a bad idea. The steering shaft does not align perfectly with the steering gear (steering box). That would cause bind. You are much better off replace the rag joint with a new one or finding a universal joint that will work.
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Originally posted by 89 Iroc Z
I think replacing your rag joint with a solid disc is a bad idea. The steering shaft does not align perfectly with the steering gear (steering box). That would cause bind. You are much better off replace the rag joint with a new one or finding a universal joint that will work.
I think replacing your rag joint with a solid disc is a bad idea. The steering shaft does not align perfectly with the steering gear (steering box). That would cause bind. You are much better off replace the rag joint with a new one or finding a universal joint that will work.
The upside is that the steering is more responsive and precise.
RBob.
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
84 1LE.
Do you still have that car? Anyway you could rotate the shaft for us and see if its stamped with a part number?
What would I call that part if I was to call GM or a junkyard n ask for it?
I like this idea, great find !!
Do you still have that car? Anyway you could rotate the shaft for us and see if its stamped with a part number?
What would I call that part if I was to call GM or a junkyard n ask for it?
I like this idea, great find !!
#20
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RBob, I see you built your own from scratch...
Has anyone tried the unbalanced engineering disk? Looks like it's the same, but since it's for a 4th gen I dunno.
Has anyone tried the unbalanced engineering disk? Looks like it's the same, but since it's for a 4th gen I dunno.
Last edited by FullSendRacing; 09-12-2005 at 12:40 PM.
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
IIRC, When I talked with Jason at UE, he indicated it did not work for thirdgens. I'll try to find the info, or I'll ask him about it again.
--John
--John
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
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Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
FYI. I asked Jason about this again.
No it won't [fit]. We plan to release one for the 3rd gens at some point, but just haven't had the time to complete the project.
Jason S.
Jason S.
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Was the Astro van shaft the same length? I snagged one in the spring when I had to relocate my column over and the f-body upper coupler was still too big to clear the headers. I saw the Astro van used u-joints and the upper double D and lower steering box size was the same. I chopped off the yokes and welded them onto my steering shaft before measuring the length. If they're the same length, it would have been a lot easier to just swap complete shafts.
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Originally posted by Dale
84 1LE.
Do you still have that car? Anyway you could rotate the shaft for us and see if its stamped with a part number?
What would I call that part if I was to call GM or a junkyard n ask for it?
I like this idea, great find !!
84 1LE.
Do you still have that car? Anyway you could rotate the shaft for us and see if its stamped with a part number?
What would I call that part if I was to call GM or a junkyard n ask for it?
I like this idea, great find !!
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Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
Was the Astro van shaft the same length? I snagged one in the spring when I had to relocate my column over and the f-body upper coupler was still too big to clear the headers. I saw the Astro van used u-joints and the upper double D and lower steering box size was the same. I chopped off the yokes and welded them onto my steering shaft before measuring the length. If they're the same length, it would have been a lot easier to just swap complete shafts.
Was the Astro van shaft the same length? I snagged one in the spring when I had to relocate my column over and the f-body upper coupler was still too big to clear the headers. I saw the Astro van used u-joints and the upper double D and lower steering box size was the same. I chopped off the yokes and welded them onto my steering shaft before measuring the length. If they're the same length, it would have been a lot easier to just swap complete shafts.
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Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: 5.3
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 9 Inch w/ 3.55
Stephen 87 What is that master cylinder from?? I have been looking for one where the lines exit towards the driver side.
Kevin
Kevin
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Just about any GM other than a third gen exits on the fender side.
It's a manual brake master cylinder from an S10. Notice the adapter fittings to put double flare brake lines into a metric bubble flare fitting.
I also moved the brake lines to the inside of the steering shaft to keep them away from the headers.
It's a manual brake master cylinder from an S10. Notice the adapter fittings to put double flare brake lines into a metric bubble flare fitting.
I also moved the brake lines to the inside of the steering shaft to keep them away from the headers.
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Car: '82 Trans Am
Engine: Blown 540 BBC
Transmission: TH475
Axle/Gears: Dana 60, 4.10 w/spool
Originally posted by Dale
What would I call that part if I was to call GM or a junkyard n ask for it?
What would I call that part if I was to call GM or a junkyard n ask for it?
I'm not much of a fan of the idea of replacing the rag joint with a solid disk. The steering shaft and steering box aren't perfectly aligned, plus the steering box does move around (due to frame rail flex) during aggressive turning conditions. Also add body flex into the equation, and you will be inducing bending loads in all these steering components, which is not a good thing. Put a U-joint in instead, and you'll eliminate any slop and won't bind anything up.
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Originally posted by Motor City Mike
It's called an intermediate steering shaft.
It's called an intermediate steering shaft.
Since it will have to get cut, I'll find a used astro shaft, and used camaro shaft. Keep my stocker as backup.
Now time to find a saturday morning free to go hunt
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Originally posted by Motor City Mike
It's called an intermediate steering shaft.
I'm not much of a fan of the idea of replacing the rag joint with a solid disk. The steering shaft and steering box aren't perfectly aligned, plus the steering box does move around (due to frame rail flex) during aggressive turning conditions. Also add body flex into the equation, and you will be inducing bending loads in all these steering components, which is not a good thing. Put a U-joint in instead, and you'll eliminate any slop and won't bind anything up.
It's called an intermediate steering shaft.
I'm not much of a fan of the idea of replacing the rag joint with a solid disk. The steering shaft and steering box aren't perfectly aligned, plus the steering box does move around (due to frame rail flex) during aggressive turning conditions. Also add body flex into the equation, and you will be inducing bending loads in all these steering components, which is not a good thing. Put a U-joint in instead, and you'll eliminate any slop and won't bind anything up.
The solid rag joint is awesome, I've tried it and I loved it... then I went with an astro-thirdgen-astro shaft and kept the astro's rubber insolator (not a rag joint). Feels even better
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Car: '83 Trans Am, Black on Red
Engine: LG4 305ci V8 w/ CCC-Qjet
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 2.37 posi w/disc brakes
The newer fullsize Astro vans have a steering shaft that bolts in perfectly without any length issues. The only problem I ran into is that my steering wheel is off 90 degrees. I'm sure if I could get the wheel off, I could rotate it on the spline, but the wheel is this Dino leather wheel that doesn't work with the normal wheel remover tools or wheel pullers. :^/
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Originally posted by Cyfun
The newer fullsize Astro vans have a steering shaft that bolts in perfectly without any length issues. The only problem I ran into is that my steering wheel is off 90 degrees. I'm sure if I could get the wheel off, I could rotate it on the spline, but the wheel is this Dino leather wheel that doesn't work with the normal wheel remover tools or wheel pullers. :^/
The newer fullsize Astro vans have a steering shaft that bolts in perfectly without any length issues. The only problem I ran into is that my steering wheel is off 90 degrees. I'm sure if I could get the wheel off, I could rotate it on the spline, but the wheel is this Dino leather wheel that doesn't work with the normal wheel remover tools or wheel pullers. :^/
If you ment full size Express... got any pictures? If I were you I wouldn't just remove the wheel and reclock it. Your signal indicators won't work correctly. Best way is to remove the U-joints and clock them "incorrectly". The only time having them clocked wrong is a problem is for velocity sinking.
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Car: '83 Trans Am, Black on Red
Engine: LG4 305ci V8 w/ CCC-Qjet
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Axle/Gears: 4th gen 2.37 posi w/disc brakes
I don't recall exactly what it was, but my old post just says '97 Astro.
#36
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The last astro i saw was a late 90s(dont remember the yr),but the shaft didnt look any longer than the other astros.BTW i think GM stoped making them already.Also the splined shaft for the steering wheel has the splines spaced apart differently,they are not all indentical.This way the hub only goes on one way.Simply rotaing your wheel will not correct your problem.
Last edited by 84 1LE; 11-11-2005 at 08:31 PM.
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
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Stephen 87 IROC,
I see your headers are AIR equipped, but most of the holes are plugged. If the line coming from Cylinder #1 for EGT measurements?
I see your headers are AIR equipped, but most of the holes are plugged. If the line coming from Cylinder #1 for EGT measurements?
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Re: billet disc = rag joint eliminator
LOL! Redirected back to this thread from a newer one asking about eliminating the rag joint Sorry for the late reply.
Those are not AIR ports in the headers. They are EGT ports. I only have a single EGT probe. If I had a real data recorder, I'd put EGT probes in the the tubes.
Those are not AIR ports in the headers. They are EGT ports. I only have a single EGT probe. If I had a real data recorder, I'd put EGT probes in the the tubes.
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Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
Re: billet disc = rag joint eliminator
Stephen87IROC, That sure looks good...Have you had any problem with the steering shaft yet???? Am considering some way of getting rid of that rag joint... Thanks, Tom
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