beefing up 7.5's
#1
beefing up 7.5's
well, as alot of you know,i broke the PowerTrax lockright locker. through a number of posts, we determined it was the older design that was a bit weaker. we aslo determined that even though i had violent wheel hop on the pass i broke the locker on, that the main reason for failure was flex. i am on a budget so here is the idea:
go with the aluminum cover with the support screw to eliminate flex: $160
weld up the axle tubes to the diff housing: $free
28 spline moser axles :$235 *(would this really be worth it? should i find some factory 28 spline axles and call it a day?)
and i'll set aside $400 for a posi, but i don't think i'll need that much.
total cost for beefing rear: about $800
it already has a good set of richmond gears setup by an experienced gear setter-upper.
am i missing anything from my list? these are things that i can add one by one (well, the axles and posi will need to go in together, cause of the higher spline count) can you think of anything else that i will need?
along with these things, i plan to upgrade the rear suspension with tubular lca's and a better torque arm. (can someone sell me on a TA?) i believe that this will decrease my wheel hop problems and increase the life of the little rear. with all of this, i should be good well into the 11 second range and not have to worry about breaking something, including the bank for the high priced 9" or 12bolt.
go with the aluminum cover with the support screw to eliminate flex: $160
weld up the axle tubes to the diff housing: $free
28 spline moser axles :$235 *(would this really be worth it? should i find some factory 28 spline axles and call it a day?)
and i'll set aside $400 for a posi, but i don't think i'll need that much.
total cost for beefing rear: about $800
it already has a good set of richmond gears setup by an experienced gear setter-upper.
am i missing anything from my list? these are things that i can add one by one (well, the axles and posi will need to go in together, cause of the higher spline count) can you think of anything else that i will need?
along with these things, i plan to upgrade the rear suspension with tubular lca's and a better torque arm. (can someone sell me on a TA?) i believe that this will decrease my wheel hop problems and increase the life of the little rear. with all of this, i should be good well into the 11 second range and not have to worry about breaking something, including the bank for the high priced 9" or 12bolt.
#3
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z, 95 Z-28
Engine: 357, 350 LT1
Transmission: Built 700-R4, 6-Speed
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Peg Leg, 3.42 Posi
I would upgrade the axles to the moser pieces. The stock ones have the same amount of splines but they are old and not nearly as strong as aftermarket pieces. As for the girdle that would be a good choice.
Actually now that I think of it I think jegs sells one with these axle braces or something.
Actually now that I think of it I think jegs sells one with these axle braces or something.
#4
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Car: 85Z28 87GTA 91GTA 98SS
Engine: SBC, LS-x
Transmission: T-5, 700-R4, T-56
That is a lot of cash to drop on a 10 bolt. Getting close to the price of a 12 bolt or 9"
The weak point is the tiny ring and pinion. It just isn't big enough to place some nice meaty gear teeth. I don't think anything else helps including axles, stud kits or covers.
Cheapest thing you could do right now is buy a complete rear end. 4th gen might be a ittle stronger but not much. That would tie you over til you can get a 9" or 12 bolt.
The weak point is the tiny ring and pinion. It just isn't big enough to place some nice meaty gear teeth. I don't think anything else helps including axles, stud kits or covers.
Cheapest thing you could do right now is buy a complete rear end. 4th gen might be a ittle stronger but not much. That would tie you over til you can get a 9" or 12 bolt.
#5
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Car: 83 Z28
Engine: vortec 305 for now
Transmission: 5 speed
http://reiderracing.com/
IMO, offload the ratchet, it's hard on the rearend axles, unit, gears, it's hard on all of it.
IMO, offload the ratchet, it's hard on the rearend axles, unit, gears, it's hard on all of it.
#6
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In my personal experience, I have seen many more axles break then the gears. I beefed up my 10 bolt with all good stuff, moser axles/gears, cover, and stronger posi unit. I can now launch on it with confidence, knowing that the rear won't break. I was experiencing more violent wheelhop then I think anyone else has ever had earlier this year when i was still figuring out my suspension setup and never had a problem.
Unless you are planning on laying down some SERIOUS HP, the 10 bolt will hold up fine.
Unless you are planning on laying down some SERIOUS HP, the 10 bolt will hold up fine.
#7
with the price of a 9" being in the $2500+ range, i think that the $800 to totally beef my rear up with would be saving me plenty of money, and should handle the power without problems.
blacksheep, you've listed that link twice now, and i have been through it pretty heavily, but i don't see prices. can you tell me where the price list is for that site?
what's the best 60' you guys have gotten outta the 7.5's? mine so far is 1.82
blacksheep, you've listed that link twice now, and i have been through it pretty heavily, but i don't see prices. can you tell me where the price list is for that site?
what's the best 60' you guys have gotten outta the 7.5's? mine so far is 1.82
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#8
I have hit 1.78 60' times with a factory auburn posi purchased used for $40, superior 28 spline axles, richmond gears with a solid pinion spacer, and welded axle tubes. I also drive the car every day and it has yet to let me down.
#9
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Aftermarket 28 spline axles are much stronger than factory 28 spline axles.
You should also pick up the Raytech solid pinion spacer.
I was running 1.6x 60' times with my old beefed up 10 bolt. I only switched to a 9" when I installed a transbrake.
You should also pick up the Raytech solid pinion spacer.
I was running 1.6x 60' times with my old beefed up 10 bolt. I only switched to a 9" when I installed a transbrake.
#10
i'll have to ask my gear setter-upper (father) if he put in a solid pinion spacer. i'm sure he used whatever install kit recommended by Richmond.
what about the aftermarket 26 splines? or would it be silly to buy aftermarket without going to the higher count spline axles? i guess it depends on what i come across for a posi unit.
what about the aftermarket 26 splines? or would it be silly to buy aftermarket without going to the higher count spline axles? i guess it depends on what i come across for a posi unit.
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Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
If u plan on beating it and are adding any new components, I would at a minimum upgrade to the 28 spline factory axles. that one is too cheap to ignore, especially if you are ordering new parts anyhow.
I did the same thing to my rearend as u did.(was a 91 28 spline already) Only difference is I dont have the reinforced cover(which i would lke to get).
Seems silly if your spending any money on a 7.5er to not upgrade to even the best factory offering.
From my experience and other friends vehicles, they seem to let go in the 1.6x range on a regular basis. Moreso with slick and a stick obviously than a auto setup.
Properly built and setup should cover you to that range or so. there are quite a few people getting some seriou times out of them no doubt.
later
Jeremy
I did the same thing to my rearend as u did.(was a 91 28 spline already) Only difference is I dont have the reinforced cover(which i would lke to get).
Seems silly if your spending any money on a 7.5er to not upgrade to even the best factory offering.
From my experience and other friends vehicles, they seem to let go in the 1.6x range on a regular basis. Moreso with slick and a stick obviously than a auto setup.
Properly built and setup should cover you to that range or so. there are quite a few people getting some seriou times out of them no doubt.
later
Jeremy
#12
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Originally posted by mw66nova
i'm sure he used whatever install kit recommended by Richmond.
i'm sure he used whatever install kit recommended by Richmond.
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...s.php?catid=73 Search the page for "spacer".... you'll find the ring gear spacer, and the solid spacer to replace the crush sleeve
#15
thanks RB! i'll look into that when i go to rebuild with posi, etc.
another question for ya:
what is the dimentional difference between the pre-88 housing and the post-88 housing? this is when they upgraded to the "stronger" 7 5/8" ring gear. is everything the same, and they just changed the carrier and ring/pinion? cause i have the 7 1/2" and i want to know if the ring gear i have will bolt onto a new 28spline posi from auburn or the like.
another question for ya:
what is the dimentional difference between the pre-88 housing and the post-88 housing? this is when they upgraded to the "stronger" 7 5/8" ring gear. is everything the same, and they just changed the carrier and ring/pinion? cause i have the 7 1/2" and i want to know if the ring gear i have will bolt onto a new 28spline posi from auburn or the like.
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Originally posted by mw66nova
is everything the same, and they just changed the carrier and ring/pinion? cause i have the 7 1/2" and i want to know if the ring gear i have will bolt onto a new 28spline posi from auburn or the like.
is everything the same, and they just changed the carrier and ring/pinion? cause i have the 7 1/2" and i want to know if the ring gear i have will bolt onto a new 28spline posi from auburn or the like.
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