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I Have just replaced my door hinge pins with the upgrade ones from TDS. I also replaced the detent roller and got a new striker. I did remove the lower hinge from the body to replace the detent roller and pin. I used the same shims on the striker. The back top of the door is not flush with the quarter. this has also caused a gap between the rear of the window and the weatherstrip. here are some pictures. Note: I still do not have the door weatherstriping on, as I am waiting for new weatherstriping. But I dont think that would cause any interference. Here are some pics
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Black 91 Z28 12.43@113 1.73 60ft
355-HSR-58mmHolley-Dart pro1 215cc-234/238 Cammotion bumpstick-JE pistons-6" rods-Hooker 2210's
A Shift Above stageV trans-Neal Chance 9.5 3400stall
All Tubular up front-All Spohn out back-Z06 binders & rollers-4th gen dash-Moates Ostrich-Free Mods...
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I would try adjusting the striker on the body a little, you may need to move it because the old hinges wore it out? Body work isnt black and white most of the time. You may have to adjust a lot of stuff to get it all to line up properly, or it has always been "off" and you didnt notice because the bushigs were worn. I think the door on my 91 GTA is like what you pictured. I know the door has been replaced but the hinges do not sag and are not worn out.
looks to me like the front of the door needs to go down. And move the striker in twoards the passenger side-- not much side to side movement with the striker, I'd say move it all the was in see where that gets you.
good luck, let's us know how it turns out.
-Birdofprey83
Top of the door needs to be bent in. Striker doesnt have to move. If you move the striker in too much it will make the door pop when you open it. Take a foot long 4x4, put it between the door and the lower part of the jamb. Then push in on the top part of the door where its sticking out. Be careful, pushing in the wrong area can dent the door. Alot of thirdgens, including my own, seem to have this problem with the door out at the top.
__________________ Suspension Spohn Lower Control Arms, Spohn Panhard Bar, UMI Relocation Brakets, UMI Sub Frame Connectors, Tokico Illuminas, J&M Camber Caster Plates, 36mm/24mm Bars Exhaust Edelbrock TES Shorties, Random Tech High Flow Cat, SLP Loudmouth Cat Back Drivetrain 355, Holley 670, Vortec Heads, Comp XE268H, Comp 1.6RRs, Hurst Short Shifter, Three Rivers Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.73 10 Bolt, T/A Performance Stud Girdle Brakes LS1 Front and Rear, Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Hawk Pads, Earls 1LE Stainless Lines Wheels Eagle 077 18x9, Continental Contisportcontact 255/35/18, 275/35/18
1989 Chevrolet Camaro
1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport
My theory on it was that previous attempts to raise to door from sagging and scraping. (i.e. using the striker pry bar tool, or just pulling up on it) This likely has bent/moved the hinges. Now that the pins/bushings have been replaced, your hinges may be bent just enough to make it not line up. It really doesn't take much for a very small bend at the hinge to make a significant change in height considering how long our doors are. I put 190lbs of me on the end of the door a few times, some what reversing has been done previously. You could use a striker pry bar tool for this as well.
Hope this helps
__________________
Black 91 Z28 12.43@113 1.73 60ft
355-HSR-58mmHolley-Dart pro1 215cc-234/238 Cammotion bumpstick-JE pistons-6" rods-Hooker 2210's
A Shift Above stageV trans-Neal Chance 9.5 3400stall
All Tubular up front-All Spohn out back-Z06 binders & rollers-4th gen dash-Moates Ostrich-Free Mods...
Last edited by Chris Etemadi; 04-03-2009 at 03:20 AM.