Cooling Fan Switch Help! Fan won't turn on after switch replaced
#1
Cooling Fan Switch Help! Fan won't turn on after switch replaced
Hey guys,
84 T/A, single electric fan, CC Qjet. L69 set up.
So, since the weather turned cold, I've had to let the car idle at high idle (Currently set to 2200 RPM) to let the car warm up. I've been smelling a burning rubber/plastic smell. Couldn't figure it out until I realized my fan didn't turn on one day in traffic.
Sure enough, the fan switch plastic connector is all melted which caused the connector to fall off of it (Found this out sitting in traffic when the fan didn't turn on). With gloves on, I manged to get it suedo-connected to run in oder to get me home (Finishing a 500 mile trip).
To this point I"m running a Jet Fan switch, On 195, off 185. I had a hypertech switch sitting in the garage (I accidentally bought it last year when thinking it was causing fan problems that turned out to be relay problems) that I swapped in.
The fan still doesn't turn on.
Any thoughts on where to look what to check? The threads are the same, however the hypertech has what looks like a tang, or metal piece sticking out the bottom about an inch farther than the Jet switch. When I tightened it down, it seated ok, I got the plug on with no problems and it's spliced in properly. This is a "one wire" type plug, I know some of the later ones had dual wires. So...what else could it be?
If i have to order anything, being in England, it will take 7-10 days to get here. Relay (Relay was replaced last fall)? Fuse (I didn't see a fuse that said "fan"), fan motor?
What's the easiest way to bypass the switch to see if it's the motor? Just ground out the wire when the engine temp gets up? Touch it to the negative battery terminal or the back of the AC compressor where there is a good ground?
Is it possible, that the "tang" that sticks out form the switch is touching the far side of the water jacket, causing it to act like a heat sink? King of grasping at straws because well....I didn't expect this to happen. All else fails, I just order a new Jet Switch and go with it.
I'm going to post this in the general section also.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
84 T/A, single electric fan, CC Qjet. L69 set up.
So, since the weather turned cold, I've had to let the car idle at high idle (Currently set to 2200 RPM) to let the car warm up. I've been smelling a burning rubber/plastic smell. Couldn't figure it out until I realized my fan didn't turn on one day in traffic.
Sure enough, the fan switch plastic connector is all melted which caused the connector to fall off of it (Found this out sitting in traffic when the fan didn't turn on). With gloves on, I manged to get it suedo-connected to run in oder to get me home (Finishing a 500 mile trip).
To this point I"m running a Jet Fan switch, On 195, off 185. I had a hypertech switch sitting in the garage (I accidentally bought it last year when thinking it was causing fan problems that turned out to be relay problems) that I swapped in.
The fan still doesn't turn on.
Any thoughts on where to look what to check? The threads are the same, however the hypertech has what looks like a tang, or metal piece sticking out the bottom about an inch farther than the Jet switch. When I tightened it down, it seated ok, I got the plug on with no problems and it's spliced in properly. This is a "one wire" type plug, I know some of the later ones had dual wires. So...what else could it be?
If i have to order anything, being in England, it will take 7-10 days to get here. Relay (Relay was replaced last fall)? Fuse (I didn't see a fuse that said "fan"), fan motor?
What's the easiest way to bypass the switch to see if it's the motor? Just ground out the wire when the engine temp gets up? Touch it to the negative battery terminal or the back of the AC compressor where there is a good ground?
Is it possible, that the "tang" that sticks out form the switch is touching the far side of the water jacket, causing it to act like a heat sink? King of grasping at straws because well....I didn't expect this to happen. All else fails, I just order a new Jet Switch and go with it.
I'm going to post this in the general section also.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
#2
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Fantasia
Yes, grounding the wire that goes to the fan switch will test the rest of the circuit.
You can test the Jet switch by connecting an ohmmeter to it then putting it in cool water, then bringing the water to a boil.
If the switch is good the ohmmeter will read zero Ω.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
If the fan doesn’t run when grounding the switch wire, jump the
red wire at the Fan Relay, to the black wire with a red stripe.
Did the fan run when you did that?
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Make Noise, Turn Left, Repeat
You can test the Jet switch by connecting an ohmmeter to it then putting it in cool water, then bringing the water to a boil.
If the switch is good the ohmmeter will read zero Ω.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
If the fan doesn’t run when grounding the switch wire, jump the
red wire at the Fan Relay, to the black wire with a red stripe.
Did the fan run when you did that?
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Make Noise, Turn Left, Repeat
#4
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Re: Cooling Fan Switch Help! Fan won't turn on after switch replaced
you can check to see if the fan works by turning the ac on but i have the problem my fan dont kick on til the gauge is almost out of numbers hoping its the gauge anyone have this problem?
#5
Re: Fantasia
Yes, grounding the wire that goes to the fan switch will test the rest of the circuit.
If the fan doesn’t run when grounding the switch wire, jump the
red wire at the Fan Relay, to the black wire with a red stripe.
Did the fan run when you did that?
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Make Noise, Turn Left, Repeat
If the fan doesn’t run when grounding the switch wire, jump the
red wire at the Fan Relay, to the black wire with a red stripe.
Did the fan run when you did that?
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Make Noise, Turn Left, Repeat
If I've followed that means the in-line fuse is good right? Possibly the relay is bad. Also possible the "new" relay is bad.
However, I am going to start by taking my new switch back out and removing all the teflon tape from it and re-installing it. It's possible (as mentioned earlier) the teflon tape is preventing the switch from grounding to the engine and completing the circuit.
Any other thoughts?
#6
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Re: Fantasia
I grounded the two fat wires...the red and black one (no red and black wire). The fan kicked on.
If I've followed that means the in-line fuse is good right? Possibly the relay is bad. Also possible the "new" relay is bad.
However, I am going to start by taking my new switch back out and removing all the teflon tape from it and re-installing it. It's possible (as mentioned earlier) the teflon tape is preventing the switch from grounding to the engine and completing the circuit.
Any other thoughts?
If I've followed that means the in-line fuse is good right? Possibly the relay is bad. Also possible the "new" relay is bad.
However, I am going to start by taking my new switch back out and removing all the teflon tape from it and re-installing it. It's possible (as mentioned earlier) the teflon tape is preventing the switch from grounding to the engine and completing the circuit.
Any other thoughts?
#7
Re: Fantasia
Poor choice of words on my part. I bypassed the relaly by taking a heavy gauge wire between the red and black fat wires, thus shorting them together. I wanted to make sure the ciruit was giving power through it (To determine if it was the relay that was bad)
With the new relay installed, it works. I also noticed that several of the pins on the relay connector were recessed, so I pushed them in and made sure they made contact.
I'm of the opinion the old relay was bad, and that when I installed the new switch the teflon coating I put on the it caused it not to be able to ground properly. Removing the teflon, plus new relay, plus ensuring pins made contact = fan working.
I'm not happy with thew temp range of the new switch though, I'm probably going to go back to a 215 or stock fan switch.
With the new relay installed, it works. I also noticed that several of the pins on the relay connector were recessed, so I pushed them in and made sure they made contact.
I'm of the opinion the old relay was bad, and that when I installed the new switch the teflon coating I put on the it caused it not to be able to ground properly. Removing the teflon, plus new relay, plus ensuring pins made contact = fan working.
I'm not happy with thew temp range of the new switch though, I'm probably going to go back to a 215 or stock fan switch.
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Car: 83Z28 HO
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Re: Cooling Fan Switch Help! Fan won't turn on after switch replaced
When I first replaced my switch, I did the same thing...I wrapped the threads in teflon tape and installed the thing. You don't want to leak anti-freeze right?...
Of course, the fan didn't turn on....then you think about how it is supposed to work...
I "think" I knew what you meant on the previous post...if you did what you actually said, you would have blown a fuse.
Of course, the fan didn't turn on....then you think about how it is supposed to work...
I "think" I knew what you meant on the previous post...if you did what you actually said, you would have blown a fuse.
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