fltche1

Ok I am having trouble with my car. I can't run my head lights parking lights winsheild wipers and the coolant fan at the same time. The load is too much for my car. The alternator died in december when the voltage regulator went bad. It was putting out too many volts... I got the alternator fixed but it fried the coolant fan and the windings... I replaced the plug wires, the cap, and the rotor along with the coil... I still can't run the car with a heavy electrial load. Are there any component that need to be replaced as well from the alternator going berserk? I have basically replaced my whole ignition system so i know it is an electrical problem. I checked the grounds at the lights and cleaned them and they are fine... I could use some help... The car is a 1986 Trans Am with TPI and a 305

fltche1

bump

LS7Roc

Maybe the positive and negative wires are corroded? Just a guess.

fltche1

Well that was a problem before but I have replace both the negitative and posative battery cables.

fltche1

Bump

NINÅ

Are you using an OE type alt?

How old is the battery?

Using a test instrument quality voltmeter, what’s the battery voltage measured at the battery with the car off?

Start the car, keep the accessories turned off.

Have the engine at least 1200 RPM.

What’s the voltage?

Now turn on all the accessories.

What’s the voltage?

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Happy Racing!

fltche1

The battery is basically brand new, and the alternator is factory and has been rebuilt. I will get back to you on the voltage with the accesories... Ok so i ran the tests. I am assuming that these tests can be carried out in park... But the car off the voltage on the battery was 12.79 volts, with the car on in park without the accesories on it was 14.35 volts. With all the accessories on without the brakes on i got 14.23 volts. That was the fan head lights and the radio, and then with my foot on the brake i got 14.08 volts. And the coolant fan was not on at this time either or the blinkers. The parking lights and the headlights were on during both of the loaded tests. Because with all of the electrical systems running headlights, parking lights, radio, coolant fan, blinkers... it kills the car... oops i forgot to do the 1200 rpms test... be right back.

fltche1

Ok so here is the rest of the information. In Nuetral, with foot on the brake pedal, radio, heater, headlights, parking lights. at idle 14.07 volts, At 1200rpms the voltage was 14.08, At idle without accesories no foot on the brake 14.24 volts this was in nuetral as well... with accessories 14.24

Theking

iTrader: (1)

Could be due bad wiring (main ones from battery) http://www.innovativewiring.com/
have REALLY NICE wires HEAVY DUTY for your car for $75, that kit replaces

Main power from Battery -> Starter
Battery -> Alternator
Battery -> Ground
Battery -> Engine

its 1/0 cables with heavy duty connectors and fireresistand cover. That would prolly solve your power issues

This is the kit for a Trans Am

NINÅ

OK your voltages are normal.

If all accessories on stall the engine, how were you able to keep the RPM at 1200?

Are you saying when driving, and paying more attention to the road than the RPM, that’s when it stalls?

Or does it stall when coming to a stop?

Quote:

I have replace both the negitative and posative battery cables

When you replaced them, did you remove all other wires at the starter and solenoid, wire brush them till they looked factory shiny, and wire brush the areas on the starter and solenoid, and then reconnect?


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Happy Racing!

fltche1

So when it stalls out it is when i am coming to a stop or already stopped and just getting moving. Or sitting at idle. Thats when it stalls out. All the fuses in the fuse box check out as good. The main fuse from the battery terminal cable also checked out as good.

fltche1

Ok so when i have a serious load on the car like i listed above and i even turned on the blinker coolant fan wasn't on though... the voltage was 12.42 volts. That lugs down the engine and almost makes it stall out and thats in park... Leave it that way just sitting in drive and it will die on you. Add in the coolant fan and you have stalled out for sure.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like there is a major short circuit somewhere then.
If the car starts to rumble at 12.42volts already, it should run stable if everything is healty on your car.

I would go thru all main cables and use an VOM the check resistence in them to make sure its not failing when getting varm and should put thru alot of AMPs..

Maybe your fuselinks from starter-> Fusecentral and ignintion are starting to fail (there are 2 smaller fuselinks close to the starter that often goes bad due the bad location of Heat and moisture from the road..

Could be your generator thats failing, it cant give out power under load (higher amps...) thats why you get 14.2+ Volts on idle (and no load) but when you start to load up, the generator cant keep up failing putting thru voltage, Mine never goes under 13.8V (even with all electronics running on.. even the 2 fans..) I have brand new wires (larger then stock) and it did ALOT of difference for the power in the car..

I would go thru all wiring again, clean all connecting, wiggle the cables to see if they are stiff (should not be) and measure the resistence in the,. Also double check all your grounds.

NINÅ

Quote:

With all the accessories on… i got 14.23 volts.

OK due to the fact with all accessories on the voltage was over 14 we know the alternator, and the cable going to the battery is fine.

Now, with all accessories on, and at 1200 RPM, measure the voltage at the ignition side of the primary on the ignition coil.

If it’s difficult to determine which is the ignition side of the primary, it will be the higher of the 2 available there.

So, what’s the voltage?

Now, let the RPM go back to idle.

Now what’s the voltage?

If the voltage at least 12, scan for codes.

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Happy Racing!

fltche1

There are three codes that are stored in the computer. A code 32 a code 33 and a code 44. My factory service manual says that a code 32 is a EGR system failure. A code 33 is a Mass air flow sensor with High voltage and the 44 is a Lean exaughst code.

NINÅ

fltche1

But if the EGR is malfunctioning would it affect my voltage? The EGR is vacum controlled as I understand it and the solinoid is electric. Would the EGR be enough to cause my electrical problems?

fltche1

It doesn't really make sense for that to be causing an electrical problem though. I dug around further about the operation of the EGR valve. The Valve is vacum operated. It doesnt even have a motor. The only electric item is the solinoid and it doesn't draw near enough voltage to be doing this. Its an electrical problem for sure and its not a direct short. But maybe a motor winding going out somewhere... I have no idea.

NINÅ