Lonestar

I am swapping a TH350 in place of the 700 in my '85 Firebird. I orderd the B&M adapter kit for the swap. My question is, instead of ordering the new GM isolator brackets, why can't I just use the old ones? Or is the new part different?
Thanks

Lonestar

Upon closer inspection and more thorough examination of the instructions, it looks as if I need the 200 mounts, which must be what the part numbers referenced are for...is this correct?
This is just a toy, 1985 Firebird with a 327 that dyno'd at 589 horse (ought to propel the car ok)
Does anyone know of a complete exhaust kit (true duals) or should I just plan on fabricating my own?
I shall post some pics later, car is looking pretty impressive.
Thanks to all.

Lonestar

Here is a pic of the car in progress. Camera is a cheapo so I will get a better pic when I have more light. Engine really looks nice in there!

louich

omg what did you do to a 327 to get that kind of hp out of it????

Twilightoptics

The stock brackets are more off set. Get the one thats in the instructions for your torque arm. Yeah it's like $20 but I tried with the stock brackets all day to make em work and it was just too lopsided.

Lonestar

$50,000 in schooling (engineering), + $20,000 in computer software + 180 hours of machine work and modeling (add in 15% aggravation). That's all!!

Lonestar

Will do, I was just curious as to why I should order new when mine were fine. When I get the 9" Ford ready, the whole torque arm will be a custom fabrication used in conjuction with custom ladder bar suspension (I have seen the torque arm rip the tailshaft off transmissions when hooking up with a lot of power).
Thanks, I'll keep you all posted.

Riley's35089rs+

sure would like to see that dyno sheet. What kind of RPM's you getting out of that motor? Torque?....:hail:

Lonestar

I will see if I can dig up the dyno sheet (the engine was assembled a couple years ago). Off the top of my head, peak horse came in at about 7200 rpm, but didn't fall off sharply until around 7900 rpm. Torque was never a thought of mine when I built it but I think it was a tad over 300 ft. lbs at just over 5000 rpm.
I am going to put the car on the chassis dyno when I complete it, that's where the power counts anyway (at the rear wheels).
I built the internals to withstand 9000 rpm safely. I love the sound of a screaming 327!!
Here is a pic of it on the stand, I hadn't received the new balancer or carb yet, so those are just old items set on there to seal the engine up.

Riley's35089rs+

What are the heads ? nice looking motor. I built a 327 myself. but the best I got was 394hp around 6000 rpm and394 hp at 5000 rpm..at the flywheel and dd2000 guestimate...so Im sure a little less
The 406 goes in this weekend The builder claims 525hp we will see. This one will go on the dyno in real life.

Lonestar

The heads started life as Casting #3927186 1969-302/350
64 cc Camel Hump/accessory holes
but I have extensively modified them to flow like mad. I have an engineering background and computer modeling software that lets me design before grind.

Your 406 should be easily capable of pushing that kind of horsepower if built correctly, and at a lower rpm. A buddy of mine was running low 9's with one in his Monte Carlo and he was shifting between 5000 and 5500 rpm's.\

I am curious what this engine will do in my '85 Firebird. I had it in a S10 and pulled a best of 9.89. The 'Bird is heavier though...we'll see.

Lonestar

Is this sarcasm? Mine was also dyno'd in "real life". It is just not that important to me as my cars are just a hobby and I don't brag, I just give the facts.

Riley's35089rs+

NO sarcasm meant...Ive never had any of my cars on a dyno..I'm just saying this setup will be on a chasis dyno. not a computer program!..sorry I wasnt trying to offend you in any way.....in fact I would say you are a verry talented builder to do what you have done.

Lonestar

No offense taken, I was just wondering. Actually, I get it now...you have the computer simulated dyno, I broke this engine in on a real dyno a couple years ago. I am lucky enough to work with the owner of a race engineering shop.