82knightrider

iTrader: (1)

I have a big problem with my car and was wondering if anyone has good advice. To make a long story short I drove my car up a curb last night going about 10 mph.Bent my front passenger rim and popped the tire.Now my front passenger wheel is pushed back about an inch.So now when I go to make a right turn the wheel rubs the fender.What do you guys think is wrong?
I jacked up the car and tie rods and ball joints look ok.Im thinking I bent A-arm.Hopefully its just that and not the K-member. What else could cause the wheel to be pushed back like that. ?

Thanks

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

A arm for sure. It couldn't really do that to the K-member.
You'll notice a weird look to the A-arm now. Might as well quickly rob a JY car of it's K-member, hopefully that set you back in business.

82knightrider

iTrader: (1)

Hey Sonix,Is there a way a can tell with a tape measure if the LCA is tweeked

82knightrider

iTrader: (1)

I had a look at the car again and discovered the bolt holding the rear part af the a arm to the k member sheared right off.Do you think I bent my a arm because of that or can I just get a new bolt and use the same a arm?
Thanks

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Id replace the A arm and be safe

The old might be ok but unlikely

Those bolts take alot to shear

82knightrider

iTrader: (1)

Arghh,I was gettin into my car to do the work and it looks like my k member did shift.Upon further inspection it seems that I was already missing a k member bolt before I even hit So since that bolt was missing my k member shifted a good inch. My buddy is helping me take out the engine.I guess now is a good time to fix my oil leak and change motor mounts.

82knightrider

iTrader: (1)

I snapped some pics of the damage.What do you guys think?Do you think I can get a good k member and it will bolt right up ? Heres the pics.My starter cracked from the impact.1st two pics are of the passenger side k member,The rearest bolt of the 3 bolts.(seems that bolt was already missing from before I hit the curb).............

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I think you were going a hell of a lot faster then 10mph. To start with, those LCA pivot bolts are just this side of indestructible.

If you’ve done that kind of damage, there is no way that this is going to be just a simple “swap x part and you’ll be fine.” If it’s going to be right, get the car on a frame machine and get it pulled straight to the reference points, and then you’ll be able to see what is bent in the suspension.

I suspect that by the time you’re done you’ll end up with the frame being pulled, K-member replaced and at least one of the control arms. If you hit it hard enough to mess up a control arm, I’d at least consider replacing the spindle on that side (sometimes you can tweak them, but usually on a very hard impact it’s as likely to crack as get tweaked and you won’t see anything wrong with it till you have a failure), and I would definitely put a new ball joint and inner/outer tie rod ends on that side (you can end up with a funky bent stud or rod on one of them, not show up clearly on the frame machine or alignment and just have a weird acting/binding suspension, or again, a part ready to fail. Remember, the ends/ball joints are just pressed together assemblies with a spring retaining the ball stud assembly, those things are nowhere near bullet proof.

82knightrider

iTrader: (1)

How much do you think is a fair price that a frame shop would charge to straighten it out.Ill send the car with the engine already removed so hopefully that will save me some bucks........

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I’m betting to put it on the rack and measure it will vary regionally, and to pull it straight will depend on how much work is involved, so I doubt that anyone can give you an accurate number. I would expect something along the lines of $150-200 to get it checked out and then an hourly fee for pulling it straight?