88 C4m4r0

I was just wanting to figure out how much it would cost to get a garage to rebuild my motor just extimates with out doing anything but making it back to stock i have a 88 camaro with 305 tbi. :lala: :lala: :nono:

Aron213

depending on where you live it will run you between 1000 to 1500 for a basic rebuild, now thats just the rebuilding of the engine. R&R will run you anywhere from 500 to 1500 depending on who, where and what they reuse.

NastyL98_T/A

I had the machine work done on my L98 for around $500. Hot tanked and magnafluxed, trued the decks, .030"overbore, cam bearings, freeze plugs, turned the crank -.010", align honed, heads were decked, pressure tested, guides cut down, a competition valve job and new valve seals. I assembled the motor myself with Clevite 77 rod/main bearings (that were $60 total) and I put stock pistons in it that I got from Summit for $60 and a double roller timing set by Cloyes too. Add a few miscellaneous things like assembly lube and plastigage plus gaskets too. I also bought a couple cans of paint to add some pizazz to the motor. Not to mention a motor building guide for the oh so important toque specs/sequences. All in all you're looking at around $6-700 assuming you already have a long block to work with. Any questions PM, email, or IM me.

ede

i get 400 dollars, includes cam bearing and freeze plug install and valve grinding. machine shop here charges 150 dollars for short block assembly. if all you want is disassembly, cleaning and reassembly the labor wouldn't be bad. you'll pay more for the engine r&r the the rebuild labor.

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

I'm getting a 305 done for ~$600. That's if the cyl bores aren't tappered or out of round.

88 C4m4r0

Thx alot for all you guys help ;-) :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:

jkesselring

Working in a machine shop that specializes in high performance custom engines, the best advice I can give you is bite the bullet on the machine work. I have seen things that came from "rebuilder" shops that I wouldn't accept for my lawn mower. By far you are much further ahead to spend the money on QUALITY machine work and cheaper parts (if you have to) then to use cheap parts and half-*** machine work. Lots of things can be had cheap if you want to rebuild the thing in another 20,000 miles. I will just give you a ball park though, we say that $400 will go through the heads (this may vary depending on the quality of what you bring in) and will include new guides that are cut for positive seals and a three angle valve grind and they will also be surfaced and completely cleaned. The bore and hone (with clean and cam brgs and freeze plugs) is another $250, decking it is about $125 and a line hone is about $100. Then you need to look at resizing rods and hanging and aligning pistons. And a crank regrind is about $100. Then you have parts on top of all of this. There may be some guys that get it cheaper, but I have never seen anything as cheap as some of the prices here and wouldn't want the quality that the low price afforded me. After all, if you use cheap parts that can't take the abuse, do you really want them beating on one another because of improper clearances and poor machine work? It is your money you have to decide what you can afford and buy the best package for what you have to spend. Good luck!

Riley's35089rs+

whatever it is... pay it..or be frustrated like myself...learning experience..
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=171580

NastyL98_T/A

Just because you don't spend an arm and a leg dosn't mean you are getting inferior work done. I had new guides seals, valve job, pressure test, and decking done on my heads and it wasn't newar $400 and they're fine. As for the clearances, you're supposed to check them before you assemble the motor anyway. If you plastigage the bearings before you assemble them then you'll be alright. If you find something wrong, THEN it's time to blame the machine shop for inferior work.

Bottom line is go to the track and car shows and ask people where they get their machine work done. If the shop is good, then their name will be out there and you will hear about them.

jkesselring

Tony,
I don't want to get into a battle, all I am saying is that poor work will run, but quality work is worth the money. Admittedly, one should always plasti-gauge the brgs, but only after they have been checked by quality mics and a bore gauge. Prices vary by local, but I think that a shop that installs quality guides, tops them and checks spring pad location to ensure that all valves have the same max lift before coil bind or retainer/seal interference, mags them, installs hard seats, does a three angle grind (while checking that the seats remain perfectly concentric) and faces and tips the valves on a QUALITY machine and surfaces the heads (on something other than a belt sander) is likely to charge around $400. Trust me, I used to think that a quickie valve grind and a surface job was alll that was necessary, but having worked in a machine shop that caters to the racing industry and running the head department, let me tell you there is more than you can imagine. BTW, how do you check guide clearance with plasti-gauge? Please don't take this wrong, I'm not trying to flame you, just my $.02!

kfoley

It depends on how far down you go. We thought we were going to be able to rebuild the 350 in our truck for $500, but after we tore it down we decided to replace parts and now it's costing almost $1000, while still using the stock bottom end.

Riley's35089rs+

LoL ...Im feeling a little less frustrated today...I started out only doing a cam and head change..parts were around 1300.oo. As I got deeper into the motor , I noticed things that didnt look so good.RE: cam bearings, well I had gone this far so I figured what the heck....well , now the only thing I'm reusing in the whole motor is the crank , Rods and the .030 forged pistons..and of course the block. The rering kit is costing me 100.00...the machine work on the block and crank..plus new cam bearings and plugs...211.00.(reputable shop) He would have assembled the short block for another $140..butt I wantted to do it myself...
Im not rushing any part of this build..Im learning every step of the way..I figure when Im done...Ill have around 2000.00 and 100hrs of work..in the motor..including porting the 416's myself...I want to know exactly what has been done to my motor..no guessing..guys on this board will help you through every step ..for free. cant beat that......
Follow my posts in the next mont or so and you will see quite a transformation...

Riley's35089rs+

http://community.webshots.com/album/67351909PWgVzl
http://community.webshots.com/album/64079524WgJvED

NastyL98_T/A

That's cool. Not trying to start a battle. Sorry if you took it that way. I never said you could check valve guide clearances with plastigage. I said to check the bearing clearances.

camaro6spd

my brother got my old 305 rebuild for him by a local machine shop this is what they did, if i can remember correctly...

1) rebuilt the heads, this includes, milling of the heads, a complete valve job with new guides and seals and new springs
2) New roller lifters and IROC cam
3) new crank
4) new pistons, rings, bearsing, oil pump, freeze-outs, etc etc etc
5) magnafluxed and hot tanked the block


i can't remember it all but there is more, they put the whole thing back together except for the oilpan and the intake.....they did a VERY VERY nice job, and the cost was $1300.

Jokerman

One suggestion since i have no idea, and hope to never need it, or atleast not for awhile, is that if you want to do any internal mods or anything, now would be the time to do it. So if you have some heads or anything you are dying to swap, spend the extra cash and do it now.