Jayose

My Iroc has been sitting for 16 years,it is blue 1985 with the TPI and 4 speed auto tranny. I parked it 16 years ago with a full tank of gas, it has been garaged for all of the time, it had some tie rod issues and I think an intake manifold coolant leak(near fire wall , top of engine, passenger side) I put some block seal and it stopped it. I would like to see if I can get it started and would appreciate all the advice I can get.

I have checked the tank and it appears to be empty and with a small amount of rust on the bottom( I scrapped a siphon hose across the bottom). I really don't want to drop the tank but I will If I have to. I don't yet know if fuel pump works?

What I have done so far is remove old sparks plugs and put a little Marvel oil in the cylinders, I will replace the sparks with new ones, I also changed the oil and filter. I purchased a new battery and most of the electrical seems to be ok. I haven't tried to crank it yet. Need advice on slowly priming oil pump. I have also done a general inspection of the engine area and found a couple of disconnected hoses,reconnected them. I sprayed all the pulley with penetrating oil, to try to loosen them up. Belts look ok.

Anyway any advice woul be very appreciated.

Thanks,
Jay

IROCtheThird

iTrader: (15)

Honestly, from this point I would just try and start it and see what happens.

mnorton

Put 5 gallons of fresh fuel in the tank. Drain the radiator fluid and fill with only water. Make sure the air filters are clean. The easy way to prime the oil pump is to disconnect the coil wire to keep it from starting, and then crank it over for 10 seconds. You may need to replace the distributor cap and rotor to get it to start, and old spark plug wires often break when you pull them off the plugs. Top off the trasmission fluid.

When you do start the engine, run it until it is hot, let it cool and then drain/re-fill the radiator fluid, use anti-freeze and water this time, and replace the in-line fuel filter, it's under the car driver's side as I recall. After you get it running for awhile look for oil leaks from the oil sender unit on the back of the engine drivers side top, valve covers, also the rear main seal.

I suspect that your intake manifold leak will come back and require new manifold gaskets. May leak at the water thermostat too. I'd bet that the water pump will probably fail soon too, you'll know when it starts dripping water. Keep an eye on the engine oil color, when it gets dark change the oil and filter again.

After sitting overnight, if it always blows smoke for a few seconds at start up, the valve seals are leaking oil and need to be replaced.

IROC315

iTrader: (9)

Please post a update. I find this interesting. I wonder how many of these cars are tucked away somewhere in garages waiting to come out.

jv9999

iTrader: (1)

Unless it's really dry where you are, I'm guessing it's seized...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

It's not easy to evaporate 16 gallons of gasoline in a closed container. The gas cap was on, right?

Either way, that gas tank is bound to be full of crud. Did you hear the fuel pump come on when you turned on the ignition? I'd be surprised if it did. I'd say drop the tank, remove the pick-up/pump, flush out the tank, replace the pump and strainer, and the fuel filter. Put fresh gas and a good detergent in (still have the lines, injectors, regulator that could be gunked up), and if the engine turns over, then try to start it.

By the way, I doubt you scraped the bottom of the tank, with the way the filler tube is designed.

mnorton

I'd bet that the bearings are still fine, but the cylinders are certainly rusted to some degree. He pulled the spark plugs and put a shot of oil in each cylinder which is a good move. Turning it over a few times before fireing it up will help break the rust. If the starter can't turn it over, I'd turn the crankshaft by hand a time or two with a pipe bolted to the harmonic balancer.

mnorton

Dropping the tank is such a pain.... Evaporating fuel does leave a sort of varnish-like residue, but I think that it would disolve with new fuel and some time. There will probably be some rust in there too, but then again I think that the tank is galvanized inside and out. Putting a can of Fuel Injector Cleaner in with the first fresh gas is a good idea.

P.S.
The stock fuel pumps in these cars do fail. If you do pull the tank, install a new fuel pump.

Sparkytfl

Last year I looked at an 82 that had been in the garage since the early 90s. The tires had all gone flat, the car was actually resting on it's belly, crushing the exhaust. The moisture trapped between the car and the damp garage floor had completely rusted the floors out. Jacked it up and chunks were just falling off. Bad sight.

lownslow

My camaro was sitting in the garage for 18 years! Just last summer it was driven 35 miles to my new house and it seemed alright at first, but after a few more spins around the block, slowly and surely there was problems left and right, especially with the cooling system, i.e. I had to replace everything to keep the car from running hot.

And I don't mean to scare, but it may happen especially when the car has been stationary for so long.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I know it's a pain. But, try to clean it out with gasoline detergent additive, and you'll be plugging up the pickup screen at the very least, anyway, and then the fuel filter, assuming the crud doesn't kill the fuel pump (assuming it even operates) anyway.

Just drop the tank.

Jayose

How did you go about to start your car after all those years. any info would be appreciated. Thanks

vette9190

iTrader: (2)

Get or make a oil pump primer shaft( I made mine out of an old craftsman screwdriver. Take out the dizzy and use a drill to turn the oil pump to get oil through the system them with the plugs out turn the motor manuelly using the crank pulley bolt and a big bar on a wrench. After that crank but don't start the endgine a few times. After that you should be able to start it. I did this with my car after it sat for 6 years. the engine purrs like a kitten.

You will need to drop the tank and flush it out maybe even change the pump
Good luck

ckeith74

started 84 Z last year after 10 years in the basement. just changed the oil/filter, checked coolant level, added fuel with a additive, replaced plugs and wires(wires broke when checking plugs), turned over with key about ten seconds then reconnected distributer. It started on the second try. it quit running a week later. rust clogged up the sock in the gas tank, then the hole in the bottom of the tank leaked out a whole tank of gas. HAVE FUN!! i still enjoy driving my car a year later.

Jayose

When you parked it did it have gas in the tank? How did you go about to get it started? is it a carb or fuel injected engine?

mnorton

The Radiators on these cars are not so good either, it may start to leak at some point as well. You should probably replace all the water hoses.

ckeith74

it is a carb, it had gas in it when i parked it. it had another problem, i bought a newer/nicer 92 camaro. so it just sat parked.

ckeith74

it wasn't difficult to get it running. after it starts is when all the little things start showing up.

ikeepitreelz

You shouldn't have a problem, I bought a '69 Corvette and the last time the car was driven was back in 1980, i bought marvel mystery oil filled each cylinder with it and let it soak for about a good 2 weeks and i would just fill them up more and more, then i spun the engine (remember the plugs are off) by hand with a breaker bar or rachet, threw fresh plugs in and changed the carb in this case...the car started right up and runs fine, i think the key is you have to let it soak because lets say the cylinder walls build up flash rust you might break a ring when you try to crank it, so let it soak and b patient.

Jayose

Well I tried to listen for the fuel pump when I turned the key, I didn't hear anything. So it looks like I may have to drop the tank, but before I do I would like to check to make sure I'm getting power to the fuel pump, can I check it at the relay or should I check at the relay and the pump? some info would be appreciated like where on the relay to check and how.

Also I'm going to try to crank next weekend,if it cranks can and the fuel pump doesn't work, I've heard that you can spray some starter fluid into the air filters or is the throttle body to try to start it ???

Thanks,

bart91406

I think you have a lot of work ahead of you before you get that electric in-tank fuel pump to work, especially since it is actually a mechanical and mounted to the side of your engine block!

ikeepitreelz

If u go underneath the car and look towards the back by the axle there is a connector u can unplug it and give the fuel pump power, that will test the pump only you will be bypassing the relays

bart91406

The car should have a mechanical fuel pump if it is an 85 with a carb.

Jayose

I think you must of missed the initial thread where I stated that it is a TPI 305.

bart91406

I thought that this was the guy with the car in question, whoops, my bad!!

ikeepitreelz

starting fluid can be used to check if it has spark,it wouldn't hurt to take the distributor cap off to see how it looks in there.i actually had a problem once in my car and i couldn't find the problem i was about to change the fuel pump because the car would crank but no "hissing" in the tank when i opened the ignition, so i disconnected the weather-pack thats by the rear axle and gave it power from the battery and the pump was fine, it ended up being a broken wire behind the engine. if u live in nyc i could of gave u hand..

jagass

I'm sure it will have so many stuff to fix...

Jayose

I dropped the tank last weeked and cleaned it, I then replaced the fuel pump strainer and wiring harness

This weekend I replaced the fuel filter and installed new plugs and put in 5 gallons of gas.

I tried to turn it on and on the 10-15 time it turned on, at first I kept it on with my foot on the gas and after a while it idled at about 700 RPM and stayed on for about 15-20 minutes. I first it ran rough,it sounded like it was missing (exhaust was real loud but after a while it got quieter and seemed like it was running better). I did back it out and drive around on the property and then drove it back into the garage. It did turn off on me several times but it turned back on the first try. It did stay on long enough for the fan to come on at 220 degrees. Next weekend I will try to see if it still is missing, check all connections( any advice would be great) and change more fluids(flush radiator) How about tranny, rear end,brake and Power steering ??? I don't think I can get away with it tomorrow.

Sonymaster20

iTrader: (3)

How many miles are on it?? Good luck on the restoration.

Jayose

92000

vette9190

iTrader: (2)

Looks like a good starting point. I would get her in the air and check all the hard lines. Any fluid that has been siting in the lines may have caused them to rust out. I just spent the winter replacing all the hard lines going to the back of the car. When you flush the radiator, you may want to use that prestone flush kit then run water thru the system for 20-30 min then flush it again. I did that and still had rust colored coolant in my system.

ikeepitreelz

I would change the oil way before you hit the suggested 3,000 miles, since the engine probably had moisture inside the oil absorbed it and also if the cylinders had some surface rust the oil probably picked it up. also, didn't you state that it had a coolant leak? I would replace the intake gaskets its pretty easy. (compared to my chevy express)

omnipotentgoku

iTrader: (1)

I would suggest putting the car up on jack stands, and going to work on your undercarriage with multiple cans of degreaser (cheap autozone stuff will do) . Host it down (pressure hose if available, and this will help with determining if you have an seals that need to be replaced.

You might also want to run some seafoam through the crank case and fuel lines. Stuff actually works.

Dodgeismo

I've had my project at home for 30 days today, started up 6 times now in last 10 days or so,...and I found out this specific vehicle has been off the road / stored for "12 YEARS"...not bad, i'm pulling it into garage 4 full restoration tomorrow(gotta clean a bit 1st and make room).

Dodgeismo

Hey Jayose,...I just put in $20.00 of fresh premium gas with fuel injector, (carb cleaner 4 me), additive, took out plugs,oil squirt in each, clean up distributer cap contacts, clean rotor tip, turn engine over with socket/extension a few times, replace plugs, operational plug wires onto proper spots, top off fluids, charge battery/boost it if needed after 1st crank over fails, (I poured bit o gas into carb), (make sure all pertinent wiring is making full contact/ completed circuit...turn on key and check for power all round... while car is being charged/boosted,..try turning it over. "DON'T" keep cranking it forever if it don't start(carb models are easier to manipulate to start 4 you).,(rings get seized, oil galleries get plugged...I'm going 4 total rebuid!...just got it started to drive into garage under own juice). Try this and evrything else you've read by these other well informed TGO'ers,...and you should be on the road in no time. (P.S...if it don't go,... drop the tank and do what "57Kid" said. Good luck! Ismo.

Jayose

Update : I got it on the road today,it needs new shocks and structs but otherwise it ran okay. The only thing that was out of the ordinary was the fuel pump it make a really loud high pitch wind especially at idle ,it also was idling at 500rpm ,I think that is low? Any help on the fuel pump would be greatly appreciated.