berlin305

iTrader: (2)

Okay here is the thing it might be installed maybe not. but i put the input shaft in and it went thud. So i assumed it went in the pilot bushing. the problem is i still have about 1/4inch gap from the bellhousing and transmission? What do i do? I thought about putting the bolts in to meet the bellhousing and transmission together BUT i didn't because i didn't know if that would ruin it or not? But it was a tight fit and finally got it in. but almost 1/2 inch left gap. any suggestions please help last step to my conversion.

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

Meaning by thud it took several time then it thump sound and moved in then stop about almost a 1/2 inch gap

chevyfan1989

i had the same thing happen to me on my iroc i think its because the pilot bushing is such a tight fit on the tranny input shaft or maybe cause i didn't use guide pins when i put the tranny back in but i had a friend get in the car once i had in about in and pull up on the tailshaft while i put the two bottom bolts in until they came in contact with the transmission and then put the top two in and slowly tightened them going back and forth between bottom worked good for me and my car hasn't shown any signs of a problem yet. hope this helps.

Gumby

Did you paint everything??

I painted my stuff with cheap blue when I had to put a new one in.
Then the neighbor commented that it was a waste as you can't see it.
So to annoy him I spent $15 on pricy day glow green paint and painted it again.

Ended up getting me as the center section of the trans that slips into the bell is a ubar tight fit.

Had to scrap all the paint out of that circle and it slid right in.

No ammout of force would make it go till the paint was gone.

Zwrench

If your car was originally an auto, did you check the rear of the crank to see if it would accept a manual's pilot shaft? Did you install a new pilot bushing?

Sorry if you covered this in another thread but, I can only comment on what I see here. Good idea not forcing it together with the bolts!

chevyfan1989

why would you paint that its machined to certain tollerances and would never fit with paint on it?? yes he has a new pilot bushing in it and using the bolts to help it into place shouldn't hurt anything as i had to drive my clutch arbor into my new pilot bearing when installing my clutch and it is the exact same size as the t5 input shaft, checked with digital calipers to make sure, its had this clutch in it for about 9000 miles now and no problems i think that the replacement parts just aren't made to the same exact tollerances as the oem and it fits a little tighter till its fired and ran for little while. this is just my opinion though and what worked for me.

Gumby

I said why I painted it in the post.

And 2nd after reading your own threads on 10-11-2009, 11:09 PM you say its the first time you ever change one, between then and now your an expert clutch changer to try and give me grief for painting it.

Ok Mr 11 post, you know everything, school me plz.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/sear...archid=2311817

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

Okay for all to know I got it in after 3 tries. The throwoutbearing was binding up. But its all in and took it for a test drive. It was great. :O) but i can't remember where the forum was about the wiring. so i could have brake lights, reverse lights. Seems now the brake lights don't work. even though i plugged in the brake light switch on the pedal like it was on the auto? any info i was trying to search it and couldn't find it.

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

And another thing whats the rpm's suppose to be at since i had auto. b/c reverse seems to grind a bit when i go in gear so i lowered the rpms and it worked. just want to know the exact range of idle on manual thanks.

Gumby

If the clutch is in, RPMs shouldn't matter. Could be just that its all enw n drags a bit.Or you may just be going into R to quick, are you trying to use it while its sitll rolling forward a bit? As the wheels can still make the insides turn.



On a side note you may want to find a stick chip for the computer.

Usually an issue only when going from stick to auto.

As the stick chip is programed to hold the rpms up a sec longer when you let off to aid in shifting.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The idle speed for a manual is around 700 RPM (800 if the AC solenoid is active). Grinding into reverse is common. Put the car in a forward gear before shifting into reverse and the problem will disappear.

JamesC

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

Okay thank you so much. Other than that it drives sweet. James know the forum on the wiring again. For so i can have backup lights and brake?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

You should have a plug on the trans with a blue and green wire (at least mine did), which runs through the ECM, I believe. So if you've removed that, the pic below may help.

The brake lights may simply need an adjustment at the pedal.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...ction-gnd1.jpg

JamesC

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

Yea on the brake light I thought that to. But it seems that It didnt help. The switch might of went out before i knew I will double check on that. And as for the transmission it had a 4 way plug looking square. that was on the the passenger side i believe the only plug i had on the transmission. and need the info on the nuetral safety switch since i have to leave it in park in order to start my car.

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

I kepted it below in the car the plug that went in the transmission. I didn't cut no wires until i knew for sure that the wire could be used or not.

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

Okay now that i read up the white 4 prong plug was torque converter. Off the nuetral safety switch i know has the reverse lights ect... Do i just disconnect that plug the yellow wire with purple so it will start then run the reverse wire down to the transmission? and that it? and tape off the other 2 since idk what those are for? i seen a thread on this i just can't find it.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Humm. Check the following link for a good diagnosis:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...s-t5-swap.html

JamesC

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the diagram. I just need to pull off a 2 prong off the 91 firebird and plug it in the T5 on my camaro. And route as I thought. I will keep searching there was a pictures of this i just can't remember where it was on the forum. so i guess i will do it the old diagram way :P.

Gumby

Mine idles around 1000 n never had no problems.......

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

Do you have TPI or TBI? mine is just reg carb no electronic at all. Accel Distributor vaccum advanced.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The 700/800 came from my 85 shop manual for an LG4; however, I'm running that with a Holley. Faster idle, more gas. I'm cheap.

JamesC

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

well i wouldn't say regular carb lol 600cfm Edelbrock

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

I will have to find out if my darn brake switch went out idk why since it was working before.

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

I love it being manual more responsive and all out i am a manual kinda guy. hated auto :P.

Gumby

MPFI though soon, hopfuly soon it wll be carb, but the carb will be mounted on top of a blower

I run 1000-1100 on my motorcycle too, I like it closer to min launch rpm with out being to high annoying [and how much time do ya idle really?], so I can be lazy on the clutch/gas and not fart n die.


Only problem I ever had was 3rd gear, which was a sign of it going bad.
3rd was noisy, then one day it got stuck in 4th gear, had to drive home that way. Thought I got it figured out. It then got stuck in 5th gear. Had to drive hom in 5th. And yes you can take off from a dead stop in 5th, its just ubar ubar ubar ubar hard. But ya do what ya gotta do to get home.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...kup_lights.jpg

JamesC

Gumby

Id agree with ya 100% till 2 years ago, you gotta put a shift kit and a higher stall TC in an auto to make it fun.

I have a blast now in my auto car, and can often be heard gigglin like a school girl.

I went hard on the shift kit, 3.08 1st, 5 clutches but on the TC held off some and just a 2200 stall 12 in as I wasn't sure. Wish I knew then what I know now, I would of gotten a 10in 2500-2800

smaller the TC the more torque multiplication you get.
Just add a cooler to deal with more heat.

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

All the wiring hooked up. thanks for that info on the diagram. Even though I am not putting a clutch switch in B/c its always a habit to hit the clutch anyways.