tyeo098

Today's task was engine identification.
Which I kinda accomplished.

First is the headers:
Casting # 10110810
Date code: E274 (May 27, 1994)
10110810 – 350, 65cc chambers, swirl port truck/van TBI headers



Now the fun part!
This image clearly shows (GM) 5.7LG SGI stamped into the engine! Its a 350!
For the life of me though, I cannot find the casting number anywhere!


The only other number I found cast anywhere is this:
(G?)52(8/3?)9
Not too sure what it means


Anyone have any idea where the casting number should be? It doesn't seem to be in the usual place.

So instead of a '91 LT1 swap' Mr. Red Neckerton said was in the engine, it seems to be a '94 Truck/Van Engine, probably an LO5 or something.

Eh, its better than the stock 305 that was in it, with regards to potential!

So a few questions..

1) Where the bleep is the casting number?!
2) Would these heads be useful for anything other than keeping a boat from floating away?
3) Could I turn this engine into a reasonable performer with some better heads and a matching cam?
(My 07 Cobalt throws ~220hp or so with 4 cyl... a V8 should be able to do... 440? )

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

1) Does it matter? You already know its a 350. Only thing that matters is if the roller cam provisions are there or not. The casting number doesn't always provide that information depending on what year it was. Actually seeing the block valley means more than anything else. If the heads are that blocks original heads then odds are good you have a roller block with a roller cam installed.
2)If you want to make good power, ditch them. If you just want to drive it, keep them.
3)Of course, it's a SBC.

tyeo098

Thanks for the info!
I've attached below a number I found casted in to the block as we were loading the car on the Uhaul trailer to bring back to Virginia, it seems that these are the last 3 digits of the casting number, and are really all that matters.

From what I've researched all of the 638 blocks had provisions for roller cams (bosses existing as we as being drilled and tapped for the spiders) whether they actually used roller cams or flat tappets. That right?

The engine is going to need a rebuild (mosquito foggin every time I floor it) and i figure if I'm going to do it, I'm going to do it right, parts wise. But then I started reading about PROM flashing and all the equipment required with that... oh boy. Is that absolutely required to do after changing out the cam/heads and everything? I'm thinking the engine will run like donkey doo until its done. I wish there was someplace local that did all the legwork for a reasonable price instead of 400$ something in ancient computer-specific equipment.

Kinda like the local shops that tune Cobalts

But I digress.


I'm reading all this info on cam specs and head specs, where would I start for a head/cam combo that would produce reasonable power while still getting 25?ish MPG (is that even attainable in a V8?)

Thanks again for your help!

The promised picture:

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

Correct a 638 motor could will have provisions for a roller cam but the bosses may not have been drilled and tapped. That's why seeing is better for believing. If it has a flat tappet, you'll just need the spider, dogbones, and retaining plate. Not hard to get those from a junk motor or a member on the boards.

Recommending what parts to use has a lot to do with what budget and performance goals you have, what do you plan on doing with the car, what intake (carb,tpi,tbi) your planning on using, what the rest of the drivetrain is like gears and transmission. (fill out your profile, advice givers really find that useful) Being a motor with mystery miles on it and able to smoke out mosquitos, you might want to debate rebuilding the whole thing so that you have full choice of compression, quench, rings etc.

As far as computer, I think your car is TBI, you can do it yourself if so inclined to learn using EBL. http://dynamicefi.com/ As far as older efi, that's the best bang for buck and functionality.

Getting 25 mpg is possible with a sbc, but the whole combination needs to be looked at.

tyeo098

Thanks for the insight. Once I get it back home I'm going to take everything apart and see exactly WHAT I have.

I'm going to completely tear down the engine and see what is in there, and what needs to be fixed, as well as identify the transmission (which actually seems to be running pretty well) and look at the rest of the drivetrain.

The first step to solving a puzzle is to get all your pieces out!

I just wish someone had a step-by-step thread/video on how to remove the engine/tranny from A to Z.

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

If I were to go back 12 years and do my car again I would do this. A vortec long block, vortec tbi manifold, top quality exhaust (dyno don's or SLP etc), and ebl to tune with. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12496821 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...FQkIaQodOggAkg You could run this combo, keep any gear you have, not destroy your trans, might not even need to retune with the cam it comes with, and pick up a fair amount of power. As it sits you could get pretty fair mileage with a higher geared axle. (2.73,3.08,3.23) And EASY to make changes to make more power if you get bored. That combo will probably save money on rebuild and labor, save your time and get your goals done with ease. Just a suggestion.

tyeo098

I was thinking of a similar plan if the engine in the car was a 305, but since its a 350, I would probably plan on keeping most of what I can from the current engine.

Would a vortec headers/intake combo work on a Gen1 SBC block?
Now I'm off to see whats so special about vortec engines anyways...

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

What's so special about vortecs are the ports and to a smaller extent the chambers. If your current short block is is good condition then you could just swap on vortec heads and use the vortec style manifold. If your engine needs any work I wouldn't waste time with it and just buy the short block. Note the manifold needs to fit vortec heads. Most manifold will not work.

tyeo098

I dont plan on outsourcing any labor, I'm a pretty mechanical guy (I build firearms and work on computers for a living) and I plan on doing any work myself.

What I was thinking is the refresh kit from Summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...yVIaAlwo8P8HAQ
To get the block back up to snuff, and work on the head/cam/intake combo from there.

I'll probably attempt some porting of the swirlport headers (or at least have my mechanic FIL do it) and if that fails, used TBI heads from somewhere... gotta look into that.

DeltaElite121

If you've never rebuilt a motor before, I highly recommend you have someone else do it your first time. There's not a whole lot of margin for error in building a shortblock, and that's a lot of money on the line to just be throwing at a new experience. Not saying you need to be a rocket scientist, but there's a lot of work involved to make a GOOD engine versus some throw together build, and it's definitely worth the extra cost to have someone help you learn those things in the process.

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

And if the block needs any machining you'll already be outsourcing labor....and I agree with Delta, learning with someone else or having them build it for you is a better idea. It's just too easy to screw things up when learning by yourself and you'll self inflict wasting money. Not saying you can't do it, just friendly advice.

I wouldn't waste any time or money on thse heads, they are not worth it. The swirl IS the problem. I would only use TBI heads if you they were already on the car and in perfect working condition. Just find a good set of heads and you'll be light years ahead of swirl ports.

And another note, if you use vortec heads and need to retain the egr for emissions, you'll need to run an egr tube from an exhaust manifold/header to the intake manifold. There is no heat crossover on vortec heads which is the case for many aftermarket and aluminum heads.

90camaro355rs

unless you have a friend that has built engines before, I don't know of any machine shop that will build your short block and let you help, tyeo if your going to try this yourself, I'm all for it, my advice to you is go buy yourself a how to book, there are some pretty good books out there by top notch builders, that explain everything in great detail. Barnes and Noble sell them. or you can get them online, or Wayne Partrige sells videos on ebay that are in great detail for dyi guys. Good luck, if you have any questions ask, that's what we are here for.

tyeo098

Well block machining would be the only labor I would outsource, laying RTV and torquing head bolts are something I can do.

I'll have to ask my FIL what he does about rebuilding engines (he rebuilt the transmission on his 91 Camaro) so hopefully I'll have him to help/teach.

I'll also call around to see what the going rate is for building up the block. Its good to have options open.

tyeo098

So upon cleaning the interior of the car I came across an interesting notepad...

It had a mileage not of 1463xx and 'New motor about 1 hr' scribbled on it.
Checking my current milage of 1466xx and noting I put about 100miles on it driving it around upstate NY... THAT DOESNT SEEM TOO LONG AGO.

I can't recall if the note had a date or not (its in the car) but if I remember correctly it was dated some time in '96. Making that engine 2 years old when it was dropped in. Meaning from 96-14 it was only driven 200 miles?

Now I'm starting to reconsider the rebuilding... Ill still probably pull it out to clean it up replace old gaskets etc... but the smoke seems more and more likely like a valve seal issue.