IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

On the pass. side right in the open space between runners 4 & 6.On the drivers side underneath runners 1 & 3.Everywhere else is dry except these two spots.When we reinstalled the intake used GM teflon thread sealer on all of the intake bolts.Anyone else have or heard of oil collecting in these 2 spots?

Roads88

I have been getting a little oil between 4 & 6 for years. Have not been able to figure it out.

Good luck.

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

it is oil vapor traveling up the threads when the bolts come loose. mine did the same thing. I when i rebuilt the motor i used new gaskets, sealed the threads, and properly torqued the bolts. done this for 2 years now and no oil and no loose bolts.

bigals87z28

I remember this topic coming up, and that someone recommended a teflon sealant. You can pick it up at any parts store. It comes in a tube, and you just put it on the threads. So far, everyone that has done it has seen no oil. When I put my itanke back on, I plan on using it.

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

yep I was in on that thread and used the teflon sealant from GM and still have the problem

GTABANDIT

i am sure all liquid or paste teflon sealants are similar but i have used arp teflon sealant for the last 3 years on all my swaps and have had no problems!!

92formula350

I was looking on here for an answer to the same question. I have a 92 Firebird Formula w/53,000 original miles. I get tiny puddles of oil on the drivers side intake between the runners in the middle. Nothing on the pass. side. Also have a tiny amount of coolant coming out of the back side of the thermostat housing. With 53,000 miles are either of these something to worry about right now? The oil puddles are what really worry me. Nothing ever leaks down to the ground.

89gta5.7tpi

I had this problem also. I solved it by using high temp rtv sealant on all the intake bolt threads. You also nead to torque all of them down in the proper sequence at least three separate times using a good torque wrench. You will find that the two middle bolts on either side of the intake will continue to require this as go through the minimum three torque sequences(I usually wait a couple minutes between each to let the intake sqeaze everything down good). I have found that it sometimes will take more than three sequences to get all the bolts to hold the same torque reading. Then allow the rtv to fully cure before starting the engine(usually 24 hrs).

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

well it will be quicker to type this up quick but you guys can do a search for my screen name and get the whole story on this. 3 years ago my (at the time) 40,000 mile 305 was displaying the same oil on the intake. i was pulling the engine to paint it, clean the engine bay, and install a cam. almost every intake manifold bolt was loose and when i removed the intake base, the intake manifold gasket had deteriorated and fallen into the valley. I did not know how bad the gasket was until i took the intake base off. so i turned the motor upside down and pulled a rod cap and the rod bearings had spots on them from contamination due to antifreeze leaking into the bottom end. this was not a severe leak, i had the car for 3 years prior to this and it ran fanstastic and i never saw any evidence of coolant in the oil. but apparently over time the little bit of coolant that seeped past the intake due to loose bolts had gotten to the bearings. so if any of you have this issue, at least pull the intake and re-seal it properly. I and many others have covered this issue many times before, just do a search for more details. I am afraid most people on here dont take this lead seriously enough.

89gta5.7tpi

In case I was misunderstood... I meant that this all should be done after pulling the intake, making sure all mating surfaces are spotless(no oil/antifreeze residue/old gasket material left anywhere), then installing new gaskets(felpro printoseals must be used with aluminum intakes), and then the rtv on the threads. I've used teflon before with mixed results but the rtv sealer has never let me down yet!

92formula350

Anybody give me a clue on the difficulty level of changing an intake gasket? I work sales at a salvage yard and have access to any and all tools (including torque wrench). I've worked on cars quite a bit, but have never gotten into an engine. I've changed steering columns, steering gears, u-joints, brakes, alternators, starters, etc.

JohnS

i had a coolant leak on the drivers of the intake near the front by the thermostat, had the gasket changed and now i have a coolant leak on the pass side in the front. its not a big leak, just the size of a dime, is this common? i mean to get small leaks by the intake. i'm going to get it checked out tomorrow, i hope the bolts are just not torqued properly, cause i cant afford to replace the gasket again.