CC89Formula

im planning on swapping in a cam starting maybe the 18th, and will probably spend most of the week doing it, can anyone give me hints and tips to make it go easier? this is the first time ive done a cam so im just going to go REAL slow and take my time. Am i going to need to pull the motor out or is there enough room to do it in the car? im sure i have more questions ill be asking later, thanks in advance.

Chad

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Not sure about birds, but in my Iroc, I pulled the radiator out and unbolted one of the little metal supports in the nose and I had plenty of room.....BUT, if you're comfortable with removing the motor, DO IT! I won't swap the cam in the car again. My back ached for days afterwords!!!!!!!

I had to "dog-ear" the metal flashing on the timing chain cover to get it back in. Since I left the motor in the car, I couldn't remove the oil pan and gasket which made the timing cover a complete ***** to re-install. I got it though, and smeared half a tube of RTV around it to be sure!

Mark all the sensors. Kinda like doing homework. Once you've taken the time to mark everything, you've memorized them all and don't actually NEED the markings. Better safe than sorry though.

Get a handle or long bolt for holding the cam while removing and installing. Those bearings are fragile, and the cam is tricky to handle all greased up.

Get a new timing chain and gaskets.

Take the time to CLEAN everything and maybe even paint, while you have everything apart.

I replaced all the EVIL star/skew bolts that GM used. I bought a stainless allen bolt kit for the TPI, and bought some regular grade 8 hex bolts from home depot for the manifold and serpantine brackets. Oh, and make sure you HAVE a skew/socket attachment for removal. I bouth a set at harbor freight for under $10. I don't use 'em much but they do come in handy now and then. Plus you can never have too many tools!

The actual swap is pretty darn easy, it's all the prep! I took my time on my first swap, had the manual handy, kept TGO online up and ready and everything went fine!

Good luck! The feeling of knowing you did it yourself is priceless!

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Oh, and you'll need a puller/insataller for the balancer on the crank. This was probably the biggest pain of the whole project. I have heard they can sometimes be tricky to re-install and mine was a BEAR!

I'm 5'10" and weigh 220. I have no problem throwing weights or car parts around! Let me tell you, it took EVERYTHING I had to get the balancer back on! I'd turn the thing a few degrees, and take a rest. Turn it a few degrees and take a rest. I honestly don't ever remember be so exhausted. It took me a good hour of doing this to finally get it all the way on. At times I thought I was gonna break something off, but fortunately I didn't! I had broken blood vessels in both my hands from the wrench handles, and I was wearing gloves! haha, but I won!

Yep, the balancer was no fun. But we did a friend's cam, and it went back on easy, so maybe you'll be lucky.

GWW

On my 89 I learned a lot but here are the important ones to me. Loosen both exhaust to header connections. Drop the starter. remove all of the pan bolts. By doing this you will be able to wedge a large screwdriver/piece of wood 1/2" thick at the front of the pan between it and the block. This will force the pan down enough to take the timing cover off without any damage at all. Just be carefull not to nick your pan gasket. I've had my timing cover off twice now and have had great success. DON'T torque your intake manifold bolts to the 35lbs GM says. There are only four that have deep threads and can take that sort of force. Clean everything, tap them out, and set them to 20lbs with blue locktite. Don't set your lifters, if using hydraulic rollers, to one turn preload. It's too easy to hang a valve open. I have mine at about a third turn.
One last thing, I know the engine compartments are cramped and it's tempting to not remove something and just muscle it out of the way to save time. Remove anything that blocks visibility, clearance to work, or safe use of tools and you won't have problems after the fact such as leaks, broken clips, lose your temper and throw things. Not that I do that

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm. Good idea.

PhLaXuS

For those incredibly frozen bolts, I use a length of PVC plumbing pipe as a ratchet extension. It flexes and looks like it's gonna break, but I've never had that happen. I must have put ~100+ ft lbs into a 4 foot length of 2" when removing my pitman arm and no problems at all. Just make sure you don't apply too much force because you can break the head off the bolt. Go nuts with PB Blaster for a few days and you're set.

Get the balancer removal set. You mos def NEED IT! I removed a balancer on a Mercury with the Advance Auto set ($30), but gently tapped it back on with a large socket and a hammer. Yep, I ruined it, so get the proper tools to remove & reinstall.

3.8TransAM

ALways install a balancer with the proper tool.(remove it with a puller two)

Save lots of time and unnecessary beating on the crank :-)

DONT INSTALL IT WITH THE BALANCER BOLT I CAN ALMOST PROMISE YOU STRIPPED CRANK THREADS :-)

And if I'm not mistaked said balncer bolt on our cars gets torqued to 70ft lb(correct me if im wrong)

Another great idea is to warm the balancer up(dont cook it obviously it has rubber on it, but heating it up will help it slide on easier but you kinda have to work fast)

Cam installs can be done in the car, but I hate doing it like that, lot better to reseal everything properly if u have the engine out, especially for first timers or people who arent so mechanically inclined.

later
Jeremy

CC89Formula

thanks for the replies, im gonna try to get some of the guys who have done this before help me. ive got an older friend (im only 19) who has done it a few times and says its cake. im lookin forward to this, the stealth ram and stock cam are NOT a good match...who would have thought oh well, im goin with the LT4 hot cam cause i got a great deal on it. cant wait

PhLaXuS

Oh...forgot to mention it before: if you plan on doing this more than once, get a 2-piece timing cover. Makes it SO much easier the next time around.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Since you mentioned LT4 Hotcam, lemme mention a few things that you may already know.

First, you'll need new rockers. Most cams are advertised with 1.5 rockers. THE HOTCAM IS NOT!!!! It's advertised with 1.6 rockers so if you want the cam swap to be worth while, YOU NEED 1.6 rockers!!! Keep the 1.5s and the LT4 Hotcam isn't a whole lot bigger than the L98 cam.

Second, you'll need new valve springs for sure. You'll also want screw in studs. You can probably start the car, have it tuned and go for a little while with the stock press in studs, but you'll likely pull 'em out sooner than later.

Third, you might have clearance issues with the stock valve covers. Not sure, but it's worth looking into.

Lastly, although you can technically do the heads on the car, you're better off pullin' them and having them done right, cleaned, new valves, springs, studs all by a professional machine shop.

Like I said, you may know all this, but I figured it was worth mentioning.

Shagwell

Unless that cam is a bunch bigger than I'm thinking(not over 510 lift right?) stock studs and vc's will be fine. - Springs are cheap insurance. Your stockers are surely wore out from age if nothing else, and they aren't built for anymore cam than they have.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

If he runs 1.6rockers, it'll be .525/.525

CC89Formula

i knew MOST of that stuff, ill be running the 1.5 rockers because i dont have money for 1.6s, but will be early in the summer when i get some. i know its about .495/.495 with 1.5s but thats a big jump from the .413/.417 stock cam i have so im alright with it.

hes also giving me the matching springs for the cam. the cam and springs are used, but only have like 2500 miles on them. he had the cam in his 97 TA and then ran into a vortec unit and decided to build a better blower motor.

i think with 1.5s i should clear the valve covers just fine.

im not sure what im going to do with the heads yet, i guess ill have to see how my friend wants to do it. BUT i dont have money for valves or anything, so if we pull them off ill just clean them up as best as i can.

Shagwell

525 sounds good. - yeah, you're looking at .492 lift w/o the 1.6's, but, as you said, still a good improvement over stock. - If you pull the heads, make sure you put the thin, OE style, head gaskets back on or you'll be giving up some compression. - If you're gonna pull the heads, do a little port work. Atleast take the ridge out of the bowl. Otherwise, going to the 1.6(eventually) won't really net you much.
- You're there, spend the money for a head gaskets/valve job. Pull the heads, do some porting(freebie DIY) and have the valves/seats ground. It'll be worth it. - YOu might as well go ahead and do screw in studs and guide plates...they're off and its simple.