Important note for Super Ram owners with vacuum leaks
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1987 Firebird, 1997 Camaro
Engine: 2.8L, 3.8L
Transmission: T5, 4L60E
Important note for Super Ram owners with vacuum leaks
The design of the Super Ram is performance genius, but a mechanical nightmare. When installing the unit, you cannot re-torque the bolts joining the runners to the manifold without first loosening the bolts joining the runners to the plenum. If you do, the plenum/runner surfaces are fixed in place almost perpendicular to the runner/manifold surfaces and this results in pinching the bottom of the runner/manifold gasket much more than the top. Not only does this not help, it makes the likelihood of a leak along the top go up! To make this work.... Install the runner/manifold gaskets and bolts and torque to spec. Let that stand 24 hours to allow the gasket to compress. Heat the areas with a heat gun if you can, let it cool and then re-torque. Then and only then, install the runner plenum gaskets and bolts and torque. You can re-torque these any time in the future if needed, but don't touch the runner/manifold bolts again unless you first loosen the runner/plenum bolts. There have been several posts complaining about vacuum leaks, and I'm sure this is why. I've spent the last 22 years as an Engineer and I'm now working on a re-design that includes the outer portions of the plenum in the runner casting with all gasketed surfaces in parallel planes. The only way to allow the much necessary re-torque of paper gaskets without stressing the design is to move everything in the same direction. Lets see if Accel will go along with this. I call it the "Superior Ram" design. Thoughts?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 76
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1987 Firebird, 1997 Camaro
Engine: 2.8L, 3.8L
Transmission: T5, 4L60E
One more thing to add. This re-design will result in the elimination of the cast lid, lid gasket and bolts, and the machining of two gasket surfaces. It will also eliminate the troubles we've all had with trying to install and tighten the runner/plenum bolts. No more fighting with injectors, fuel rails and wiring. Significant cost and hassle reduction!!
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,228
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From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
That intake is y I run a MINI RAM..
I know some misinformed people on here don't like them but I think Its a great intake
I know some misinformed people on here don't like them but I think Its a great intake
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From: San Pedro, Ca
Car: White KSwisses
Engine: 5.3L Gen III
Originally posted by Tony Walch
That intake is y I run a MINI RAM..
I know some misinformed people on here don't like them but I think Its a great intake
That intake is y I run a MINI RAM..
I know some misinformed people on here don't like them but I think Its a great intake
I think the people that dont like them are informed on their price.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,644
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From: Long Island New York
Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
it is a nightmare to install, have to agree with ya there. Worth the headache in the end.
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From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
Another item worthy of thought. I would like to see some of the harder to get to plenum to runner bolts installed from inside the plenum. In other words thread the runner or install a heli-coil. Allen
I doubt Accel would be willing to retool this design. Think of how many units they'd have to sell just to break even on the tooling costs, secondary machining fixtures & process development, product validation & testing, CARB certification if desired, etc. I could imagine them designing a completely different, simpler design to rival the MR or HSR before they'd do this. Then they'd have two offerings for TPI replacement rather than a rehash of an existing design that may be nearing the end of it's lifecycle. Just my opinion, but I'm also a ME and have gotten tooling quotes on smaller, much less complex designs and they are pretty high... This is just my opinion however, and I would be interested in hearing any progress regarding this!
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From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Originally posted by cali92RS
Misinformed?
I think the people that dont like them are informed on their price.
Misinformed?
I think the people that dont like them are informed on their price.
its nice to have a intake that is one piece,light, bolts on easy, makes the power, comes with all the stuff it needs and it looks cool to... And I'm glad i didn't have to cut my RARE FACTORY ALUMINUM hood bracing to make a cheaper intake fit .....
Last edited by TTOP350; Dec 13, 2004 at 09:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 76
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1987 Firebird, 1997 Camaro
Engine: 2.8L, 3.8L
Transmission: T5, 4L60E
Shawn87GTA, you don't think that the universally known vacuum problem and be-otch installation isn't impacting their sales figures. People avoid buying one of the best designs going because of this. Just do a search here to support that statement. The cost of fabbing a new set of models for casting, fixturing and programming for new machining all falls under NRE (non-reoccurring engineering) that's price split based on sales figures. I'd gladly pay a little more for something that works and is easier to install right the first time. Let's face it, this thing isn't cheap as is, and I'm sure sales would go up without all of the horror stories it has now. Just my two cents.
Originally posted by Tony Walch
This hobby and Quality isn't cheep
its nice to have a intake that is one piece,light, bolts on easy, makes the power, comes with all the stuff it needs and it looks cool to... And I'm glad i didn't have to cut my RARE FACTORY ALUMINUM hood bracing to make a cheaper intake fit .....
This hobby and Quality isn't cheep
its nice to have a intake that is one piece,light, bolts on easy, makes the power, comes with all the stuff it needs and it looks cool to... And I'm glad i didn't have to cut my RARE FACTORY ALUMINUM hood bracing to make a cheaper intake fit .....
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,228
Likes: 1,156
From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
I don't like to build a ton of lowend torque ..
I mean its great if you want to blow the tires away down low and coming off a stoplight.. I also like to play on the street a little,
Idon't like having to worry about losing a race because i blew the tires off.. I can spin the tires at 50-55 mph anyway, so I really don't need much more torque..
I just love to c the tach at 7,500 rpm and shes still pullin' hard..
I think the super ram is a great idea ...if you have a cam and headers on a 305 in a heavy car.. (still sucks to work on)
I mean its great if you want to blow the tires away down low and coming off a stoplight.. I also like to play on the street a little,
Idon't like having to worry about losing a race because i blew the tires off.. I can spin the tires at 50-55 mph anyway, so I really don't need much more torque..
I just love to c the tach at 7,500 rpm and shes still pullin' hard..
I think the super ram is a great idea ...if you have a cam and headers on a 305 in a heavy car.. (still sucks to work on)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 76
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1987 Firebird, 1997 Camaro
Engine: 2.8L, 3.8L
Transmission: T5, 4L60E
Forgot one important thing in the assembly instructions. Bolt on and torque one runner to the manafold. While bolting and torquing the other side, set the plenum on the runners with out gasket,and try to rock it to see if it sets flat. If not, use the clearance in the bolt holes to tweak it into the same plane as the torqued side. The plenum/runner bolts, all but one, went all the way in with two fingers. The cover bolts did the same. Major difference compared to "first time around".
Just a thought, Having fun on the street doesn't happen at 7500 RPM. Someones gunna get killed.
Just a thought, Having fun on the street doesn't happen at 7500 RPM. Someones gunna get killed.
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From: Titusville Fl.
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: Tremec 3550
Originally posted by Tony Walch
I don't like to build a ton of lowend torque ..
I mean its great if you want to blow the tires away down low and coming off a stoplight.. I also like to play on the street a little,
Idon't like having to worry about losing a race because i blew the tires off.. I can spin the tires at 50-55 mph anyway, so I really don't need much more torque..
I just love to c the tach at 7,500 rpm and shes still pullin' hard..
I think the super ram is a great idea ...if you have a cam and headers on a 305 in a heavy car.. (still sucks to work on)
I don't like to build a ton of lowend torque ..
I mean its great if you want to blow the tires away down low and coming off a stoplight.. I also like to play on the street a little,
Idon't like having to worry about losing a race because i blew the tires off.. I can spin the tires at 50-55 mph anyway, so I really don't need much more torque..
I just love to c the tach at 7,500 rpm and shes still pullin' hard..
I think the super ram is a great idea ...if you have a cam and headers on a 305 in a heavy car.. (still sucks to work on)
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,228
Likes: 1,156
From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
My car is set up to come on at around 3,700 rpm and keep going to 7,500 rpm.. Useable power is nice... its called a good converter and a highway gear ....it gets you out of the hole clean and when the Rs come up it starts pulling like a fright train..
It all depends what you want really ..... my car gave up between 15-20 fts under 3700rpm (gained 15 hp down low ) but more than made up for it mid and upper rpm
My car still smokes the tires on command but you also have to know how to drive...
when i say it comes on at 3700 i don't mean its totaly dead down low it still makes power but you can really start to feel it around 3- 3200rpms
A limited traction race is useally won buy the guy with A the most traction and B the most power to either pull away or to catch the other guy
It all depends what you want really ..... my car gave up between 15-20 fts under 3700rpm (gained 15 hp down low ) but more than made up for it mid and upper rpm
My car still smokes the tires on command but you also have to know how to drive...
when i say it comes on at 3700 i don't mean its totaly dead down low it still makes power but you can really start to feel it around 3- 3200rpms
A limited traction race is useally won buy the guy with A the most traction and B the most power to either pull away or to catch the other guy
Last edited by TTOP350; Dec 20, 2004 at 01:37 PM.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Titusville Fl.
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: Tremec 3550
Yeah, higher stalls are used to launch a car more in it's power band, and as long as it hooks and nothing breaks, it helps. I use a manual transmission, and I have a super ram, and I really enjoy not having to dump a clutch from high RPM to get my car to move. Having torque is nice, and I prefer building motors for torque first and foremost, not HP.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,228
Likes: 1,156
From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
I might make th whole power tour this year ..do you live close to where they are going to end up???
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 76
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1987 Firebird, 1997 Camaro
Engine: 2.8L, 3.8L
Transmission: T5, 4L60E
Good point Dzhezkov, but I think that Tony hit the nail right on the head. It is just a matter of what you want or need (usualy not the same thing, the wants tend to win). I just believe that you'll need the high end horse power just to catch up to the guy/gal that got off the line quicker. Cease fire!
Originally posted by Tony Walch
I don't like to build a ton of lowend torque ..
I mean its great if you want to blow the tires away down low and coming off a stoplight.. I also like to play on the street a little,
Idon't like having to worry about losing a race because i blew the tires off.. I can spin the tires at 50-55 mph anyway, so I really don't need much more torque..
I just love to c the tach at 7,500 rpm and shes still pullin' hard..
I think the super ram is a great idea ...if you have a cam and headers on a 305 in a heavy car.. (still sucks to work on)
I don't like to build a ton of lowend torque ..
I mean its great if you want to blow the tires away down low and coming off a stoplight.. I also like to play on the street a little,
Idon't like having to worry about losing a race because i blew the tires off.. I can spin the tires at 50-55 mph anyway, so I really don't need much more torque..
I just love to c the tach at 7,500 rpm and shes still pullin' hard..
I think the super ram is a great idea ...if you have a cam and headers on a 305 in a heavy car.. (still sucks to work on)
boy does it work though..
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,228
Likes: 1,156
From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Ok so we all agree that the super ram is a PITA to work on and we are jabing each other over what ?? 4-6 inches of runner length??? :lala: I'm done here
lets find another thread to hijack
lets find another thread to hijack
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