Hi,I have purchased a MINI RAM and was currious about the throttle body fitment, it seems to hit the thermostat housing with the hot water passage. It is a stock throttle body, does anyone have a suggestion on how to fix this problem, someone told me to do a bypass and grind the passage down until it fit, I was just currious if anyone else has had this problem or can send me some photos of some of your set ups, maybe even with a aftermarket throttle body. THANKS.

 

I had the same problem on my 58mm t-body. I by passed the coolant and ground down the housing. No problems.

 

Per the instructions of the miniram, you need to take off the IAC housing and modify it so only the "air inlet" portion remains. The rest needs to be cut off. IIRC only 3 bolts now hold the iac housing on.

 

Instructions, what Instructions......lol. I had to get mine used, as I do not have unlimited funds....lol. Thanks a bunch 1980, I guess thats what I will do. I would still like to see some photos if anyone could take a quick shot to show me how its supposed to look after its been moded. THANKS.

 

Do you have any pics of this modification?

E

 

You need to cut the IAC water line fittings off of your throttle body to keep it off the water neck. You can get the TB to fit if you just hacksaw off the hose fittings on both sides for now. Later on you can completly remove the water passage if you wanted to.


When I got my Miniram from TPIS they sent me the Corvette water neck for it and I couldent get my belt and upper hose to not rub. Just so you know they (TPIS) make a Camaro and Corvette water necks.

 

Is that why my water neck basicly points straight up in the freakin air? I must have the camaro water neck. hehe.

We were looking at it last night saying "man, with all the room that coulda went straight forward, why does it point up like that!" makes putting the bottom bolt in kind a pita.

-- Joe

 

TPIS sent me the Corvette water neck with my Miniram. When I put it on it went right into my serp belt, and I thought, why wouldent they just angle it up more to clear the belt.

Thats when I called them to find out they made both style water necks. Funny!

 

Do you still have the corvette one?

-- Joe

 

I think I do, but Im currently on my way to Iraq. So I dont have access to it right now.

 

Well good luck to you. Oorah!

-- Joe

 

I know this thread is a little old but maybe this picture will help.

anesthes, does your water neck look like this?

 

That's the Camaro neck....only problem with it is how it gets in the way of your intake connection to the throttle body....horrible design. I had to make a 3.5" intake instead of a 4" I was planning on due to that housing. If I can get a low mount pulley system to work that will relocate my alt. to the passenger side, then I can use a low profile swivel housing and my stainless upper rad. hose and have enough space to get 4" cold air intake tubing to fit.

- Joel

 

Say, if anybody has a copy of the MiniRam instructions, I'd appreciate seeing a copy. I got mine off eBay with the conversion fuel hoses, FPR, brackets, etc. as a nice package, just no instructions.

 

I think I still have mine. I'll try to find.
It's not much, just the thing about cutting the water inlet and outlet off throttle body, I believe.
Ron

 

HTH, these are the instructions that came with mine.

MINI-RAM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
.1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Turn the motor over until the timing marks line up, and the rotor points at the number 1 terminal.
3. Remove the distrbutor noting the position of the rotor so you will have it correct on reinstallation of the distributor.
4. Remove your existing induction system. Clean all gasket material from heads and block. Temporarily set new gaskets in place with Mini-Ram and check bolt hole alignment. Make sure the oil pressure fittings have clearance at the back of the manifold. The fitting should be in place before installing the manifold.
5. Bolt the Mini-Ram into position. We recommend using silicone to seal the ends of the manifold instead of cork or rubber end gaskets.
6. Now install the injectors and fuel rails. Use a lubricant, like WD-40, to help slide the 0-rings into position. Insert the injectors into the fuel rails (electrical connection facing out), and snap retain clips into place. Now press each rail assembly into position making sure all of the injectors are completely seated. Make sure the fuel transfer tube is properly seated between the rails. Loosely install the hard fuel lines to the fuel rails. Select the proper fittings from the fuel rail kit to connect the fuel lines to your car. Once this is done tighten the hard lines at the fuel rails.
7. Reconnect the battery. Turn your ignition key to the run position to energize the fuel pump. Adjust the pressure to 47psi as a starting point. Check for leaks. There are two ports in the center of both sides of the manifold. These are for your vacuum connections. Any vacuum ports not used must be plugged. Three of the ports are 3/8” NPT, and one is ¼” NPT (national pipe thread). We do not supply these fittings.
8. With your vacuum needs met, it is time to install your distributor. With the rotor pointing in the proper direction, set the distributor in place. It may not drop all the way in. If this is the case, turn the oil pump shaft until the distributor drops completely in.
9. Install your coolant temp. sensor in one of the two tapped holes in the front of the manifold, the other one is used for your heater. You also will not use the cold start injector thermal switch (85-88 cars). Also, we do not run coolant through the throttle body; it will be necessary to cut the water cavity off of your lower throttle body housing. Failure to do so will result in interference between the throttle body and water neck! If you take the housing off and look at the water cavity and the IAC motor cavity, you will see what needs to be cut off. (See fig. 1) You only need the IAC cavity and three mounting holes.
1O.Install your water neck. It uses a standard small block Chevy thermostat. Fill the system with coolant and check for leaks.
11 .Install your throttle body with the bolts supplied in the kit. Connect your throttle, throttle valve, and cruise cables. If using a stud style throttle body (85-88) you may need to use the stud extensions included in the kit for cable alignment. One bolts on, the other can be tack welded. If you have a cable guided throttle body (89 or newer), use the small alum. Bracket on top of the fuel rail for the throttle cable. Have someone step on the accelerator pedal to make sure the butterflies are opening all the way. Make sure the floor mats are not interfering.
12. Install your manifold air temp. Sensor into the air cleaner ducting in front of the throttle body. Use the harness extension kit provided.
13 .Reinstall wiring.
14.Set your base timing to 6 deg. With the EST wire disconnected. Hook up EST and disconnect the battery to clear the codes.

MAT RELOCATION KIT
1. Find mat sensor on the bottom of the plenum right in front of the distributor.
2. Disconnect the harness from the sensor, follow the wires back a few inches until you find another connector in the main harness at the firewall.
3. Disconnect this connector, and discard this harness.
4. Connect the new harness to this connector.
5. The sensor can be relocated anywhere in the air stream in front of the throttle body, in the ductwork or in the air box. After you locate your mounting position, drill a hole .720” or 23/32 in size.
6. Insert grommet into hole and insert sensor.
.7. Connect other end of harness to the sensor.
8. Your computer will now have a more accurate air temperature reading.


Joe

 

Not to hijack the thread but Vern are switching over to a MiniRam?

If so, good move.

Me likey.

 

Probably at some point, the one I got is for an LT1. Luckily I have a fresh from the machine shop 20 over LT1 block in te garage waiting on somebody to make me a deal I can afford on a forged stroker kit for it. Unless I found someone with an non-LT1 version who wanted to swap...

I think I may try a converted LT1 intake on my current motor first though. Got one of those and some new AFR 195s in the garage as well.

I've got far too many parts out there and no money to use for any of them right now.....

 

Thanks Joe for posting the instructions
Ive been looking for those since they didnt send them along when i accuired my mini
cant wait to finish it up !!